Ed,

I rebedded one of my stanchions after I noticed some moisture in a cabinet following a rain storm.? The main challenge I ran into was getting a wrench on the nuts which were hidden behind the head liner.? In my case, this portion of the head liner was out of sight, I bored out corresponding holes in the liner large enough to get a socket wrench on the nuts.? From thereon, it was strait forward as Christopher indicates.? I rebedded the stanchion using butyl, which I believe many on this forum would also advocate using in this application.

If (when) I need to rebed a stanchion where the headliner is visible (i.e. were I don't want to drill unsightly holes), I intend to get some sort of universal joint or flexible driver to allow access the nut in that maddingly cramped space.? I'd be interested if anyone else has had a similar experience and how you solved the problem.

Good luck!
Mark
SV Hullabaloo
S-362 #266?

I removed the wall batten behind the stove to gain access to the rub strake. It can be done. The panels will fit very tightly against the bulkheads and are a pain to pull out because they do not flex very much. The panels are just that panels, not individual pieces. The individual boards are connected with a layer (or 2?) of mat and polyester resin. This makes them very stiff. Before reinstalling the panel, I trimmed a little off each end and will hide the edges with the trim.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Ed Bailey <ebaileywv@...> wrote:

Thanks Matt,

I would always use butyl tape for this application. The challenge is as you mention; getting the right combination of u-joints/bent wrenches on the bolts through the small "crack". I expect from prior experience on last boat that getting the nuts off is much easier than on. This is definitely a two person job, and will be frustrating in the dropping NE Ohio temperatures.

Has anyone removed the wall batten paneling to widen the access?
--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

I removed the wall batten behind the stove to gain access to the rub strake. It can be done. The panels will fit very tightly against the bulkheads and are a pain to pull out because they do not flex very much. The panels are just that panels, not individual pieces. The individual boards are connected with a layer (or 2?) of mat and polyester resin. This makes them very stiff. Before reinstalling the panel, I trimmed a little off each end and will hide the edges with the trim.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Ed Bailey <ebaileywv@...> wrote:

Thanks Matt,

I would always use butyl tape for this application. The challenge is as you mention; getting the right combination of u-joints/bent wrenches on the bolts through the small "crack". I expect from prior experience on last boat that getting the nuts off is much easier than on. This is definitely a two person job, and will be frustrating in the dropping NE Ohio temperatures.

Has anyone removed the wall batten paneling to widen the access?
--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

Also,when you use butyl, countersink?the screw holes and put butyl around the screws and under the? head.? Per RC's guide.

Pete

On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 10:33 AM David Lochner via <davelochner=[email protected]> wrote:

I removed the wall batten behind the stove to gain access to the rub strake. It can be done. The panels will fit very tightly against the bulkheads and are a pain to pull out because they do not flex very much. The panels are just that panels, not individual pieces. The individual boards are connected with a layer (or 2?) of mat and polyester resin. This makes them very stiff. Before reinstalling the panel, I trimmed a little off each end and will hide the edges with the trim.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Ed Bailey <ebaileywv@...> wrote:

Thanks Matt,

I would always use butyl tape for this application. The challenge is as you mention; getting the right combination of u-joints/bent wrenches on the bolts through the small "crack". I expect from prior experience on last boat that getting the nuts off is much easier than on. This is definitely a two person job, and will be frustrating in the dropping NE Ohio temperatures.

Has anyone removed the wall batten paneling to widen the access?
--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

With a mess of leaking stanchions, this job is on my to-do list. What I intend to do is use as ratcheting wrench with a flexible head like this one from Lowe’s: ??These can also be purchased individually in some places.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Shaffer via <shaffer_mark_f@...> wrote:

Ed,

I rebedded one of my stanchions after I noticed some moisture in a cabinet following a rain storm.? The main challenge I ran into was getting a wrench on the nuts which were hidden behind the head liner.? In my case, this portion of the head liner was out of sight, I bored out corresponding holes in the liner large enough to get a socket wrench on the nuts.? From thereon, it was strait forward as Christopher indicates.? I rebedded the stanchion using butyl, which I believe many on this forum would also advocate using in this application.

If (when) I need to rebed a stanchion where the headliner is visible (i.e. were I don't want to drill unsightly holes), I intend to get some sort of universal joint or flexible driver to allow access the nut in that maddingly cramped space.? I'd be interested if anyone else has had a similar experience and how you solved the problem.

Good luck!
Mark
SV Hullabaloo
S-362 #266?

By the way, all. I'm replacing a couple of bent/ugly stanchions and gate support due to PO accident. Very reasonable from?
The stanchion tubes are <$75 each. They have the drawings for the original stainless, and can make virtually anything custom.

Ed
--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

Thanks. I also intend to make use of my USB endoscope/borescope camera, which has proven priceless on the boat. Less than $20 on Amazon. The camera proved priceless when I rebedded my Catalina.

On Wed, 27 Oct 2021 at 10:28, David Lochner via <davelochner=[email protected]> wrote:

With a mess of leaking stanchions, this job is on my to-do list. What I intend to do is use as ratcheting wrench with a flexible head like this one from Lowe’s: ??These can also be purchased individually in some places.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Shaffer via <shaffer_mark_f@...> wrote:

Ed,

I rebedded one of my stanchions after I noticed some moisture in a cabinet following a rain storm.? The main challenge I ran into was getting a wrench on the nuts which were hidden behind the head liner.? In my case, this portion of the head liner was out of sight, I bored out corresponding holes in the liner large enough to get a socket wrench on the nuts.? From thereon, it was strait forward as Christopher indicates.? I rebedded the stanchion using butyl, which I believe many on this forum would also advocate using in this application.

If (when) I need to rebed a stanchion where the headliner is visible (i.e. were I don't want to drill unsightly holes), I intend to get some sort of universal joint or flexible driver to allow access the nut in that maddingly cramped space.? I'd be interested if anyone else has had a similar experience and how you solved the problem.

Good luck!
Mark
SV Hullabaloo
S-362 #266?

--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH

Thanks. I also intend to make use of my USB endoscope/borescope camera, which has proven priceless on the boat. Less than $20 on Amazon. The camera proved priceless when I rebedded my Catalina.

On Wed, 27 Oct 2021 at 10:28, David Lochner via <davelochner=[email protected]> wrote:

With a mess of leaking stanchions, this job is on my to-do list. What I intend to do is use as ratcheting wrench with a flexible head like this one from Lowe’s: ??These can also be purchased individually in some places.?

Dave

Second Star

S362 #113

Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Oct 27, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Shaffer via <shaffer_mark_f@...> wrote:

Ed,

I rebedded one of my stanchions after I noticed some moisture in a cabinet following a rain storm.? The main challenge I ran into was getting a wrench on the nuts which were hidden behind the head liner.? In my case, this portion of the head liner was out of sight, I bored out corresponding holes in the liner large enough to get a socket wrench on the nuts.? From thereon, it was strait forward as Christopher indicates.? I rebedded the stanchion using butyl, which I believe many on this forum would also advocate using in this application.

If (when) I need to rebed a stanchion where the headliner is visible (i.e. were I don't want to drill unsightly holes), I intend to get some sort of universal joint or flexible driver to allow access the nut in that maddingly cramped space.? I'd be interested if anyone else has had a similar experience and how you solved the problem.

Good luck!
Mark
SV Hullabaloo
S-362 #266?

--
SV Enigma, Sabre 362 #199
Lake Erie @ Sandusky, OH