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Sea Frost Engine Refrigeration For Sale- Used

 

I have a used functional Sea Frost ED System.
It was fully functional when removed last August. It was removed because the copper lines were beginning to corrode and had begun leaking.?
To install it would need?
? ? 1. a pulley on the engine,
? ? 2.? bracket on front of the engine
? ? ? ? ? ? or?
? ? ? ? ? be attached to the engine room wall.?
? ? ?3. new copper tubing connecting components.

? ? ?4. spare parts for an?existing system.
Any reasonable price considered.? I can discuss installation?process and take questions off line.

Thanks,
Mike Fair
Second Wind 362
Padanaram, Buzzards Bay



Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

Scott:
The shower sump drain on my 402 is drained by a shower sump pump; which pumps ?it to the sink drain.?
Andy
Snowy Owl
402 #40


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

One last point - the base of the shower is below the water line, thus, a pump is needed.

Fair winds,

Mike
~~ _/) ~~


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

In Sapphire, our shower drains via a pump, which is actuated with a switch in the shower area.? The forward drain, in the head section, drains as you described - via water heater area to the dripless to the bilge. There is a switch on the electrical panel and a second switch just aft of the shower glass separation panel.? No pictures as I am not on board.? But can provide them if needed.

Fair winds,

Mike
~~ _/) ~~

svSapphire
2001 Sabre 402
Atlantic Highlands, NJ


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

After 31 years the Attwood bilge pump in the Attwood shower sump gave up the ghost. Not a problem except Attwood no longer makes a drop in bilge pump that fits. To top it off, they no longer make the shower sump that was installed in my 362. And to add to the joy of boat ownership no one that I can find makes a shower sump box that will fit into the space between the engine and a floor. My solution, a work in progress, is to wall off a section of the bilge and install a small Whale low profile gusher bilge pump and pump it back through the sink drain. Other more pressing projects have superceed this one on the priority list.


Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:37?AM, David Short, SV One Timer, 1997 362, Mt Desert, ME via groups.io <dhs.short@...> wrote:

Same on 362. Drain to bilge bad idea. Real bad.?

On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:33?AM, Jim Gregory via groups.io <jgregor1.jg@...> wrote:

?
On hull 32 the shower drain goes through a filter then to a pump then out the sink drain. The pump is fused at the main panel and has a switch in the shower. I have no idea where the head compartment drains to. I imagine it finds its way to the keel sump. Both drains are below the water line and would have to be pumped UP to exit a through hull as in the case of my shower drain.?
--
Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT

--?
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On our 402 the shower drain goes to a strainer with a screen in it then to a pump and into the head sink drain.
The pump switch is next to the door for the wet locker in the shower and the strainer and pump are under the head sink.
The head area drain drains into the bilge.
Michael
Wind Walker
S402-097

On 3/10/2025 9:09 PM, retbc5 via groups.io wrote:

Hey all. ?New 402 owner here... ?Today, I noticed when water drains from the head or shower floor drain, the water enters the bilge area under the water heater. ?If there is enough water, it travels into the bilge where the dripless is and eventually to the bilge pump. ?Is this normal for a 402 (or any other model?). ?It seems like the drain lines would enter a thru hull just like the sinks. ?Attached is a photo with two white lines marked on it showing the two drain lines and a red line that shows the direction of travel to the bilge pump.
he showere
?
Thanks in advance
Scott
Lady Superfine (Formerly Serenade) Hull #56


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

Hello Scott,

On my 402, both of those drains are connected via discharge hose to a pump that draws the water up and into the discharge hose into which the head sink drains (and ultimately to the thru-hull below). The pump is located in the compartment below the sink. The switch for that pump is located in the shower area.

I am away from my boat, so I cannot be 100% certain of all the above, but that is my recollection. Sounds like your 402 is either configured differently on purpose or you may just have a disconnected hose situation on your hands.?

Richard
S/V Zenith?
Sabre 402
Marblehead, MA


Re: Cuttyhunk Rendezvous Summer 2025

 

We usually stop in Cuttyhunk at least a few days a year. We are booked in Edgartown by the ridgid dockwa app so dont know when we will hit Cuttyhunk.?
--
Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

According to my registration the 425 gross tonnage is 18 GRT. ?Net tonnage is 16 NRT.
?
Kevin McMahan
Nocona Moon
Sabre 425 #1
HWS 42063A090


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Same on 362. Drain to bilge bad idea. Real bad.?

On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:33?AM, Jim Gregory via groups.io <jgregor1.jg@...> wrote:

?
On hull 32 the shower drain goes through a filter then to a pump then out the sink drain. The pump is fused at the main panel and has a switch in the shower. I have no idea where the head compartment drains to. I imagine it finds its way to the keel sump. Both drains are below the water line and would have to be pumped UP to exit a through hull as in the case of my shower drain.?
--
Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT

--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME


Re: 402 head/shower drains

 

On hull 32 the shower drain goes through a filter then to a pump then out the sink drain. The pump is fused at the main panel and has a switch in the shower. I have no idea where the head compartment drains to. I imagine it finds its way to the keel sump. Both drains are below the water line and would have to be pumped UP to exit a through hull as in the case of my shower drain.?
--
Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT


402 head/shower drains

 
Edited

Hey all. ?New 402 owner here... ?Today, I noticed when water drains from the head or shower floor drain, the water enters the bilge area under the water heater. ?If there is enough water, it travels into the bilge where the dripless is and eventually to the bilge pump. ?Is this normal for a 402 (or any other model?). ?It seems like the drain lines would enter a thru hull just like the sinks. ?Attached is a photo with two white lines marked on it showing the two drain lines and a red line that shows the direction of travel to the bilge pump.
?
?
Thanks in advance
Scott
Lady Superfine (Formerly Serenade) Hull #56
Sausalito, CA


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

You may be able to get the dimensions you need from this scaled drawing.
?
Jeff Boyle
Daystar S425 #79
Chicago, IL


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

2019, insurers abruptly stopped insuring USA boats, two weeks before our UK policy expired. The solution was a suprisingly easy switch to UK ship registry. It was cheap to do so, the only real expense was to have a surveyor measure Wings, and we also had to have a unique name, so she became Wings' duet. The surveyor reported that our 38MKII is allowed to carry 12.57 tons of grain. That allows us an ample supply for our breakfasts.
?
Gus Wilson
Wings' duet, S38MKII.


Re: 362 PSS and flange replacement

 

Hello Bil,
?
As noted, I did not have to remove the shaft. ?Once the coupling is removed and the PSS Shaft Seal components are removed, the shaft can slide as far back as far as the rudder, giving you just enough room to get the new Shaft Seal on. ?I¡¯m away this week, but will return by 3/15. ?PM me and I can make arrangements for you to pick up the puller and long bolts.
--
Scott Shucher
Quintessa ?'98 Sabre 362 #200
South Yarmouth, MA


Re: 362 PSS and flange replacement

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The yard did mine in 2021 - PSS ( Packless Sealing System ) - 1-1/8" Shaft - 2-1/4" Stern Tube
Installed a new Sigma Drive coupling at the same time.? I don't believe they pulled the shaft all the way out.
I am hull #197


On 3/9/2025 5:08 PM, Bill Graves via groups.io wrote:

Hi all, I plan to replace my PSS shaft seal in coming weeks.? I'm away from the boat right now and need?help with some items.? Can other owners?confirm?that the PSS Pro 03-118-214 seal is correct for the 362 (hull 261)?? I know the prop shaft is 1.125" dia but not sure about shaft log diameter.

From past posts I see that pulling the shaft flange is challenging.? Pix of mine are attached.? Scott Shucher I see you made a special puller a few years back.? Can I drive down and borrow that during the week of March 24?

I'm hoping to avoid removing the shaft to square up a new flange.? There is no play in the cutlass bearing.? Is it reasonable to clean up the old flange and reinstall with new set screws?? Can I use a new split flange without removing the shaft?? If so please recommend which split flange model is appropriate for this shaft and transmission (ZF/Hurst on a Westerbeke 35D).

I'm copying Scott Shucher's post #78169 below from 1/4/21 because it's helpful on these topics.

****
Shucher: I just did the Shaft Seal replacement project in last spring on my 362.? Here are some observations:

*Disclaimer: ?I am a DYI'er and not a qualified diesel mechanic or machinist.

*We bought the 362 in spring of 2019.? Our surveyor recommended replacing the rubber bellows on the shaft seal, as we could not ascertain the last time it had been done.
As a matter of fact, it could be the original installation.? Although PYI recommends replacement every 7 years, (It used to be 10), I'd installed one on a Hunter in 1998, and didn't recall
any life-span guidelines on the bellows, until a friend mentioned it.? That one lasted 21 seasons, and was still in good shape when I finally replaced it.

*I'm guessing my rubber bellows was the original my Sabre installation.? There was no water vent on my shaft seal.? The early PYI Shaft Seals did not have them.? As mentioned the solution was to "burp" the bellows to let air out.? I see that your installation on your '95 362 has a vent, which tells me that it's not the original shaft seal on that boat.? It was likely upgraded at some point.? Also, the bellows looks like a "beefier" version than the one I originally had on my 362.? I've attached a before and after photo so you can see the difference. ?

*Assuming the shaft log is the same size, (you can confirm this with Glen at Sabre) The PYI part number is #02-118-214 Shaft Seal.? That indicates 1-1/8" shaft, and OD on the stern tube is 2-1/4".? I ended up ordering the entire new Shaft Seal, as the whole new package was only $100 more than the maint. kit.

*It's not a difficult job to do, EXCEPT for removing the coupling from the shaft.

*Here's a good article on installing a new PYI/PSS shaft seal, with a lot of good insight.


*As to whether its a project you can do yourself, depends upon your level of patience, agility and mechanical confidence.? It took myself and a friend three Saturdays to get the coupling off the prop shaft.? We tried using the socket to drive the shaft out of the coupling.? We only got so far(moving the shaft out about an inch or so) on day one before deciding we needed a wrench with more leverage.? On the second attempt, a week later, and with PB blaster that had been sitting for a week, we noticed that we weren't driving the shaft out, as much as we were pushing the engine forward on it's mounts, which is a bad thing to do, so we stopped, not wanting to damage the transmission seals and bearings.? At that point we went to a machinist and had him make us a custom puller to attach to the coupling, and drive the shaft out. ?(Cost was $200 for the custom puller, which is a well machined with a 1" bolt that drove the shaft out as the bolt was tightened.) ?Once we used the custom puller, we were able to drive the shaft out of the coupling, but the process is still slow and methodical, because there is not a lot of room to work back in the aft stateroom.? You spend a lot of time making small progress, scrunched up in a ball, trying to get leverage.

*I think "heat" would have made the process a little easier.? But by all means, NO OPEN FLAMES.? I decided to re-use the coupling, which is generally considered a No No by any good machinist.? It didn't get beat up trying to get it off, so I cleaned it up, got rid of any rust, painted it and reused it.? I tried a test fit back on the shaft, and the coupling would only go so far, which is a good thing because you want a tight fit(as explained in the article) I left the coupling on my car dashboard in full sun for most of the day.? The coupling became so hot on the dashboard I couldn't pick it up without a rag.? I also heated up the coupling by leaving it in front of an electric ceramic heater on board, and the coupling became so hot there that, again I had to use a rag to pick it up.? After installing the new Shaft Seal, the "Hot" coupling slid back on the shaft with out an issue.? Within 30 seconds, the coupling had cooled to the point where I could not move it on the shaft.? I also ordered new set screws for the coupling from Hansen Marine, as its not a good idea to reuse the old ones.

*I'd thought about a new coupling, as most machinists would recommend, but a new coupling would have required a proper "Fit and Face" to the shaft to be sure the shaft was "True" to the coupling.? And you cannot "Fit and Face" a coupling without removing the shaft from the boat.? And on the 362, the only way to get the shaft out of the boat and back into the boat is to a) Move the Engine, or b) Drop the rudder.? So bottom line was, I re-used the same coupling.? Once in the water, she feels the same as before, which is no unusual vibration when under power.? In a perfect world I would have preferred to pull the shaft, had it checked for straightness, fit and face a new coupling, but as mentioned pulling the shaft out was going to be a project, encompassing dropping the rudder, which would require lifting the boat

*The good news is that once the shaft is free of the coupling, the shaft will slide all the way back to the rudder, exposing the floor-bed, allowing for a good, thorough cleaning of that whole area?
**

Thanks,
Bill Graves
2003 Sabre 362 #261 'Souwester'
Marblehead, MA


--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Just remember that if it makes sense to you, you don't understand it.

On 3/9/2025 4:34 PM, april0485 via groups.io wrote:
Thanks Dave, Transport Canada has something similar and I believe both require a measurement of Depth, from top of deck to bottom of keel.? I need this measurement for the 425.? I'm not near my boat at the moment so if someone with a 425 has the measurement it would save me sometime and guess work.? The 425 I have has the 6'10" draft....but how much height sits above that?
--
Jim Starkey, AmorphousDB, LLC


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Check the measurement. The Gross Tonnage is a measure of the boat¡¯s volume. If the boat has an encapsulated keel, then the boat¡¯s draft is used in the calculation, because the ballast is inside the hull. If the keel is external, then it is not part of the boat¡¯s volume and the depth is from the level the keel attaches to the hull to the deck.

Any gross tonnage measurement I have seen has been rounded to the nearest whole number, so the measurement does not need to be all that precise.?

If the boat was documented in the US, look up the documentation number and you should be able to read the gross tonnage.


Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario

On Mar 9, 2025, at 4:34?PM, april0485 via groups.io <april0485@...> wrote:

Thanks Dave, Transport Canada has something similar and I believe both require a measurement of Depth, from top of deck to bottom of keel.? I need this measurement for the 425.? I'm not near my boat at the moment so if someone with a 425 has the measurement it would save me sometime and guess work.? The 425 I have has the 6'10" draft....but how much height sits above that?


362 PSS and flange replacement

 

Hi all, I plan to replace my PSS shaft seal in coming weeks.? I'm away from the boat right now and need?help with some items.? Can other owners?confirm?that the PSS Pro 03-118-214 seal is correct for the 362 (hull 261)?? I know the prop shaft is 1.125" dia but not sure about shaft log diameter.

From past posts I see that pulling the shaft flange is challenging.? Pix of mine are attached.? Scott Shucher I see you made a special puller a few years back.? Can I drive down and borrow that during the week of March 24?

I'm hoping to avoid removing the shaft to square up a new flange.? There is no play in the cutlass bearing.? Is it reasonable to clean up the old flange and reinstall with new set screws?? Can I use a new split flange without removing the shaft?? If so please recommend which split flange model is appropriate for this shaft and transmission (ZF/Hurst on a Westerbeke 35D).

I'm copying Scott Shucher's post #78169 below from 1/4/21 because it's helpful on these topics.

****
Shucher: I just did the Shaft Seal replacement project in last spring on my 362.? Here are some observations:

*Disclaimer: ?I am a DYI'er and not a qualified diesel mechanic or machinist.

*We bought the 362 in spring of 2019.? Our surveyor recommended replacing the rubber bellows on the shaft seal, as we could not ascertain the last time it had been done.
As a matter of fact, it could be the original installation.? Although PYI recommends replacement every 7 years, (It used to be 10), I'd installed one on a Hunter in 1998, and didn't recall
any life-span guidelines on the bellows, until a friend mentioned it.? That one lasted 21 seasons, and was still in good shape when I finally replaced it.

*I'm guessing my rubber bellows was the original my Sabre installation.? There was no water vent on my shaft seal.? The early PYI Shaft Seals did not have them.? As mentioned the solution was to "burp" the bellows to let air out.? I see that your installation on your '95 362 has a vent, which tells me that it's not the original shaft seal on that boat.? It was likely upgraded at some point.? Also, the bellows looks like a "beefier" version than the one I originally had on my 362.? I've attached a before and after photo so you can see the difference. ?

*Assuming the shaft log is the same size, (you can confirm this with Glen at Sabre) The PYI part number is #02-118-214 Shaft Seal.? That indicates 1-1/8" shaft, and OD on the stern tube is 2-1/4".? I ended up ordering the entire new Shaft Seal, as the whole new package was only $100 more than the maint. kit.

*It's not a difficult job to do, EXCEPT for removing the coupling from the shaft.

*Here's a good article on installing a new PYI/PSS shaft seal, with a lot of good insight.


*As to whether its a project you can do yourself, depends upon your level of patience, agility and mechanical confidence.? It took myself and a friend three Saturdays to get the coupling off the prop shaft.? We tried using the socket to drive the shaft out of the coupling.? We only got so far(moving the shaft out about an inch or so) on day one before deciding we needed a wrench with more leverage.? On the second attempt, a week later, and with PB blaster that had been sitting for a week, we noticed that we weren't driving the shaft out, as much as we were pushing the engine forward on it's mounts, which is a bad thing to do, so we stopped, not wanting to damage the transmission seals and bearings.? At that point we went to a machinist and had him make us a custom puller to attach to the coupling, and drive the shaft out. ?(Cost was $200 for the custom puller, which is a well machined with a 1" bolt that drove the shaft out as the bolt was tightened.) ?Once we used the custom puller, we were able to drive the shaft out of the coupling, but the process is still slow and methodical, because there is not a lot of room to work back in the aft stateroom.? You spend a lot of time making small progress, scrunched up in a ball, trying to get leverage.

*I think "heat" would have made the process a little easier.? But by all means, NO OPEN FLAMES.? I decided to re-use the coupling, which is generally considered a No No by any good machinist.? It didn't get beat up trying to get it off, so I cleaned it up, got rid of any rust, painted it and reused it.? I tried a test fit back on the shaft, and the coupling would only go so far, which is a good thing because you want a tight fit(as explained in the article) I left the coupling on my car dashboard in full sun for most of the day.? The coupling became so hot on the dashboard I couldn't pick it up without a rag.? I also heated up the coupling by leaving it in front of an electric ceramic heater on board, and the coupling became so hot there that, again I had to use a rag to pick it up.? After installing the new Shaft Seal, the "Hot" coupling slid back on the shaft with out an issue.? Within 30 seconds, the coupling had cooled to the point where I could not move it on the shaft.? I also ordered new set screws for the coupling from Hansen Marine, as its not a good idea to reuse the old ones.

*I'd thought about a new coupling, as most machinists would recommend, but a new coupling would have required a proper "Fit and Face" to the shaft to be sure the shaft was "True" to the coupling.? And you cannot "Fit and Face" a coupling without removing the shaft from the boat.? And on the 362, the only way to get the shaft out of the boat and back into the boat is to a) Move the Engine, or b) Drop the rudder.? So bottom line was, I re-used the same coupling.? Once in the water, she feels the same as before, which is no unusual vibration when under power.? In a perfect world I would have preferred to pull the shaft, had it checked for straightness, fit and face a new coupling, but as mentioned pulling the shaft out was going to be a project, encompassing dropping the rudder, which would require lifting the boat

*The good news is that once the shaft is free of the coupling, the shaft will slide all the way back to the rudder, exposing the floor-bed, allowing for a good, thorough cleaning of that whole area?
**

Thanks,
Bill Graves
2003 Sabre 362 #261 'Souwester'
Marblehead, MA

Flange.jpg
PSS.jpg


Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425

 

Thanks Dave, Transport Canada has something similar and I believe both require a measurement of Depth, from top of deck to bottom of keel.? I need this measurement for the 425.? I'm not near my boat at the moment so if someone with a 425 has the measurement it would save me sometime and guess work.? The 425 I have has the 6'10" draft....but how much height sits above that?