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Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem
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Hi Folks,
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I think that most S2 27 boats came with a Yanmar 1GM10. ?
How many of you have the dreaded Yanmar "starting problem," that is, you turn the key, hit the button, and just get a click? ?Hit the button between 2 and 10 more times, and eventually, the starter is energized and the engine starts. ?Apparently, this is due to an undersized wiring harness.
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Have any of you come up with a good solution to this problem (short of changing out the entire wiring harness)?
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Thanks for the input.
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Dave S.
s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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Hi Dave,
The Yanmar wiring issue is frustrating isn't it? ?I can't think of a worse way to drive off family members than the dreaded "click of death" from the starting system. ?My 2GM20F has the same issue. You can run 2 new, heavier, and properly tinned (marine grade) wires from the starting switch connections on the back of the panel to the starter solenoid connections that will "bypass" the degraded wire in the factory harness. This will allow you continue to use the factory starting button. ?Here is a pretty good instruction page on this solution from a Tartan owner with a 3GM series. Alternately, what I did on my boat was an easier solution that didn't involve me crawling into the area behind the head to get to the wires on the back of the control panel. ?I got a marine momentary contact electrical switch (a starter switch) from West Marine, 12ga marine wire (Anco 2 conductor jacketed marine), a marine sealed fuse holder, and a 30 amp fuse. ?My tool kit already has a selection of marine grade crimp-on ring and spade connectors, butt splice connectors etc. I fabricated ring connectors on to the 12ga and fastened them to the bolt/screw for the large (red) and small (white) wire connection points on the starter solenoid. On the larger (red) high current side I connected the fuse block to my wire and then connected that to one of the leads on the starter switch. ?The other side of the starter switch I connected to the smaller white wire connector on the solenoid. Basically, this is a fused version of taking a screwdriver to the leads on the starter solenoid or connecting a mechanic's style pistol grip remote starter switch to the solenoid. ?I mounted the switch in the side of the engine compartment near where the steps connect to the "engine hatch." ?There is just enough room to mount the switch on the side where the port cabinet next to the engine compartment is. It's hidden, and can't be easily kicked or pressed, unless you intentionally mean to access it.? I hope this make sense. ?I don't have any pictures of my set up, but when my factory switch just clicks, my auxiliary switch spins the engine with authority. Brian S/V Pressure Drop 1986 S2-27 #46 |
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On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:53 PM, bsmokler@... [s227classassociation] <s227classassociation@...> wrote:
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Thanks so much, Brian. ?Excellent write -up! ?
Suffice it to say, I have really been frustrated by this starting problem.
I think that I'll give your solution a try. ?
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Dave S. s/v Clio 1987 S2 27, hull #80
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? -----Original Message-----
From: "bsmokler@... [s227classassociation]" [s227classassociation@...] Date: 06/28/2016 11:55 AM To: s227classassociation@... Subject: [s227classassociation] Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Starting Problem ? Hi Dave,
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The Yanmar wiring issue is frustrating isn't it? ?I can't think of a worse way to drive off family members than the dreaded "click of death" from the starting system. ?My 2GM20F has the same issue.
?
You can run 2 new, heavier, and properly tinned (marine grade) wires from the starting switch connections on the back of the panel to the starter solenoid connections that will "bypass" the degraded wire in the factory harness. This will allow you continue to use the factory starting button. ?Here is a pretty good instruction page on this solution from a Tartan owner with a 3GM series.
?
?
Alternately, what I did on my boat was an easier solution that didn't involve me crawling into the area behind the head to get to the wires on the back of the control panel. ?I got a marine momentary contact electrical switch (a starter switch) from West Marine, 12ga marine wire (Anco 2 conductor jacketed marine), a marine sealed fuse holder, and a 30 amp fuse. ?My tool kit already has a selection of marine grade crimp-on ring and spade connectors, butt splice connectors etc. I fabricated ring connectors on to the 12ga and fastened them to the bolt/screw for the large (red) and small (white) wire connection points on the starter solenoid. On the larger (red) high current side I connected the fuse block to my wire and then connected that to one of the leads on the starter switch. ?The other side of the starter switch I connected to the smaller white wire connector on the solenoid. Basically, this is a fused version of taking a screwdriver to the leads on the starter solenoid or connecting a mechanic's style pistol grip remote starter switch to the solenoid. ?I mounted the switch in the side of the engine compartment near where the steps connect to the "engine hatch." ?There is just enough room to mount the switch on the side where the port cabinet next to the engine compartment is. It's hidden, and can't be easily kicked or pressed, unless you intentionally mean to access it.?
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I hope this make sense. ?I don't have any pictures of my set up, but when my factory switch just clicks, my auxiliary switch spins the engine with authority.
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Brian
S/V Pressure Drop
1986 S2-27 #46
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开云体育I didn’t know this was a known problem. Mine does this but I just have gotten used to it. Not a big confidence booster but my Yanmar always fires up after a couple of clicks.Thanks for the heads up! Frank
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