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How Much Hylomar?
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Which Hylomar?
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The original 907 engine called for Hylomar Universal Blue. In modern speak, that would be Hylomar AF. In later 9XX engines, like the 910 turbo, Hylomar 3400 Anaerobic Sealant was called for. Are you building stock, or updating? Regards, Tim Engel 01/07/2025, 6:37PM PST, wigl wrote:
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wigl,
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I like Hylomar Universal Blue (the old/vintage spec stuff) and Hylomar AF (the modern/ current version). Neither ever cures hard. It seals very well, but remains softish/ squishie. If it's ever disturbed, it will reseal. You can use Hylomar Universal/ AF on many things, like the intake manifold, T-stat housing, water pump, gearbox cover... etc. If a roadside repair every requires you to remove the T-stat housing (for instance), and you don't have any sealant along with you, just be careful removing the housing without disturbing the Hylomar any more than necessary. Then carefully re-intall it. The Hylomar residue will re-seal as good as before. I'd still reinstall the t-stat housing with a new gasket and fresh Hylomar when I got home, but for a roadside repair, it's good to go. What's that got to do with the liners? If you ever have to remove the cylinder head, it is possible/ likely that the cylinder liners might be wiggled a bit... ie, disturbed in their spigot bores. If that happens with Hylomar, don't sweat it. It will re-seal when you re-install the head with a fresh gasket, and torque it down. The Anaerobic sealants that Lotus specified later (starting with the 918 V8, and retro-spec'd to earlier engines), cure hard/ brittle. IF it is ever disturbed, it will crack, and there is no chance that it will ever re-seal on it's own. It's a great sealant as long as it's left alone, but don't ever mess with it. IF you do mess with it and damage the seal, your only option is to fully dismantle the joint (ie, take the engine / cylinder block assembly apart) fully clean off any and all sealant residue, and re-seal/ re-assemble from scratch. While anaerobics are excellent sealants, personally, I find that "brittle seal" factor a significant negative. On the plus side, John Deere tractor dealerships use and sell Hylomar 3400 anaerobic sealant. They have it custom packaged in a smallish plastic squeeze bellows with a plastic 'spout'. Point & squirt. And it's available at John Deere dealerships and some tractor supply outlets all around the country. Otherwise, you can get (well, I've been able to get) Hylomar products at industrial supply outlets, like Graingers... and similar. Regards, Tim Engel 01/08/2025, 8:54AM PST, wigl, <wigl@...> wrote: It's a 910 bottom end, new iron liners. |
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LOTUS 9XX Cylinder Liner Install:
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The liner fit into the block's "spigot bores" (the holes in the block that the liners fit into) is very snug. A finger press fit... usually referred to as a "tight" clearance fit. Sit the liner in a starting position on/above the block's spigot bore, wiggle it around, and it just won't go in... frustrating. Then you'll by chance wiggle it into some magic position, and it will almost just drop in. Patience! With minimal (nil) clearance, don't be painting it with a thick layer of sealant. If you do, all the excess will just get scraped off, and you won't have any control over where the excess mess goes. Apply a minimal thickness "film" of sealant (barely "paint" thick)... NOT a goop layer. Use a flux brush (for liquid solder flux - cheap & disposable) to "paint on" a THIN/ minimalist layer of sealant. The liner's outside diameter has a step in it part way down. The smaller bottom end slips into the block's spigot bore... that tight fit I talked about above. Then the liner slips in until the "step" bottoms out against the top of the spigot bore. Paint a thin film of sealant onto the bottom side of the step on the liner, and around the top (facing up) rim of the spigot bore... the two mating surfaces. When those two faces kiss-off, they should be pinching a layer of sealant all the way around. But not two retched much. Any excess (more than a tiny bit) will ooze out, and end up in the coolant water jacket. You do not want excess sealant to rinse off into the coolant and circulate to where it shouldn't be... wherever that is. Later, just before final assembly, reach down into the cooling water jacket (gap between liner and block's inner wall) with some long slender brush, and wipe off any excess sealant ooze that's on the coolant side of the joint. Be careful NOT to jar/ wiggle/ move the liner... ie, don't disturb it. Back to applying sealant... As above, paint sealant onto the bottom side of the liners side-wall step... and for about 1/2"-1" down along the side wall... on the top end of the wall that will slide into the block's spigot bore. A minimalist layer some distance, but short and not all the way to the bottom. Remember the snug fit between the liner and block's spigot bore... a perfect "scraper". Any wretched excess sealant will get scraped up and out the top as the liner's step seats against the block's spigot bore. All that excess will end up around the base of the liner INSIDE the block's coolant jacket. The mess you're supposed to clean-up. How much do you want to deal with? With the sealant applied, the liner installed, and the excess overflow mess (ideally minimal) cleaned-up, temporarily install the cylinder head. Did you keep the old head gasket? If so, re-install it as a temporary gap filler, install the head, and torque it down to spec. If you do not have the old gasket (or another sacrificial gasket), then tear the cardboard backing off of a couple of paper tablets, cut to fit, and lay them over the tops of the liners before installing the head and torquing it down. Allow the head to sit torqued down for 24 hours or more. Then remove the head and temporary "gasket", clean & prep the surfaces as you would for normal engine assembly, and assemble the engine per the manual. The exception being the torque spec, which has changed thru time as gaskets changed, and changed with the common use of ARP hardware... which requires it' own, critical torque specs. IF you buy ARP hardware instead of re-using your existing/old LOTUS hardware, it (ARP) requires that you also buy the "current" special thread lube, and then use the unique torque required for that particular thread lube. When you buy ARP hardware from your Lotus supplier, specifically ASK them which lube they will be selling to you with the hardware, and what the torque spec is for use with that lube!! When it comes time for final assembly, the NEW head gasket only gets used ONCE. Do not install a new gasket as the temporary 'filler' to clamp the liners down while the sealant sets-up, and then think you're going to re-install it during final assembly. NO WAY. A new head gasket only gets used ONCE during final assembly. Any mistake part way thru assembly that requires taking it all apart again and starting over REQUIRES A "NEW" HEAD GASKET. ABSOLUTE GOSPEL !! Have Fun, Tim Engel 01/08/2025, 11:30AM PST, Tim Engel, <tsengel@...> wrote: wigl, |
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Thanks indeed Tim! So I would want the Hylomar in a not too viscous form, so as to work with the method described. Some of the formulae are described as paste, and my ancient and faded memory of Twincam work for my Elan recalls the tube stuff being a tad viscous.
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Good advice on the quantities required and in regard to the procedures. The all too many years taken to get here did afford plenty of time for schooling on many aspects of the Esprit work, for which I again thank yourself and others in the communities.
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I'm game to use an MLS type HG purchased quite some years ago from QED, while the head studs are Garry Kemp's current offerings. I do have 2 used HG's so no problem in that regard. Further to uses for Hylomar it would seem suitable for the dry sump MBP - block joint though perhaps Loctite 518 might better serve there. With needed parts about to be delivered I'm very soon in a position to reassemble both the D/S pump and the Aux housing units, thinking the 518 appropriate for the gasket-less pump segments of the D/S. Getting both tasks done and ready to install will be a load off my mind for sure. Posting pics and commentary over on TLF for this program.
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Cheers? |
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