开云体育

It is recommended to use the latest version of the slicer program downloadable from the QIDI website. Then you will be able to access the printer directly via WiFi or network cable. The latest version still has a few bugs in it but is still very usable. In a later post I will note the bugs I have found so far. RC

If you are having trouble removing your prints from the build plate there is a tool available from Amazon that seems to help. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Costs about US$9.00 I've already destroyed one plate using a knife. Any other deposits can be removed with Acetone available from most hardware stores.

Well I had my first breakdown. I was printing some objects using PLA and halfway through the print it stopped feeding the filament and was trying to print in the air. Nothing coming out of the nozzle. Couldn't understand why the filament wasn't feeding. I looked at the on screen display and realized I opened the ABS file and not the PLA file. You have to set the type of filament in the Qidi slicer app so it can make any adjustments as to speed, nozzle and plate temperature. I tried to back the filament out using the manual commands but it was stuck. Since I still had the stock print head and since I needed to print right away, I replaced the head with the original stock head and finished my job. I've never cleaned or disassembled the print head before, so this was all new to me. I noticed when taking the nozzle off that it was discolored. Almost black. As if it was overheated. The nylon feed tube was stuck inside the head heater. The filament broke off somewhere inside. I decided to take the whole thing apart to see if I could clear the clog. A word of caution. Use a camera or your smartphone camera and take lots of pictures of the print head at different angles so assembly will come easy. A picture of the cable plugs and where they plug into will be valuable. Make sure you work on a clean cookie sheet or shallow aluminum baking tray you can pick up at the local dollar store for a buck. This will keep parts from running away from you. Make a mental note as to how it came apart and the sequence so you don't end up having to take it apart and put together in the right sequence. One critical setting is when you unscrew the heater block that you know how many turns on the threaded portion. You will need to unplug all the cables too. There are two heater wires that will have to be unscrewed from the green connector. Remove fan and make note of the order of the spacers and bracket under it. When removing the circuit board make note of the two fiber washers and where they go. There is a screw holding a finned tube that has threads on it. Make note as to the depth it was inserted after you take the set screw out. This will have to go in exactly the correct depth. Once you remove this three finned tube you may notice the nylon tube is jammed inside. Using a heat gun, soldering iron or mini blow torch, warm up this tube and using some pick tool or needle, push the nylon tube out and when it cools, clean it out of any debris. If the nylon tube isn't deformed and the nozzle is usable, you can probably use it again. Otherwise use a new nozzle and tube. One extra comes packed with your tool kit. Note that the original nylon tube doesn't fit into the nozzle like the replacements. also note there might be a very small washer that is between the nozzle and nylon tube in the original print head. Do not over tighten any screws otherwise you will strip the threads. Reinstall the three finned tube at the proper depth and lock with the set screw. You can see some screw marks on the shaft if you peek inside the threaded hole and that way you'll know how deep to positition it. Carefully reassemble the head noting that you need to thread the heater block around the threads of the three finned tube but you have to hold all the brackets and parts while you rotate the large head block the right amount of turns. After remounting the rebuilt head you will need to re calibrate the heat plate height otherwise you may damage the plate or nozzle, or be printing in the air.

If you are new to 3D printing and are moving, downloading files or viewing folders STL's, you may find your STL extension has changed or renamed when viewing folders containing STL's. The files will appear as a "Certificate Trust List" file. It took me awhile to determine that if you do not have a 3D CAD program installed on said computer, Windows will change its designation since it doesn't have a program associated with it. This usually happens if your internet computer is not the same computer that you do your 3D generating on. The data or extension hasn't changed. Just the default association. Once you move the file(s) over to your 3d app or slicer program, the .stl extension will be visible. RC

Welcome all new members to this group. I hope you find this group useful for help getting your 3D printer up and running, and sharing problems, hints and ideas, questions and successes with each other. I hope you are just as impressed as I am with this line of 3D printers.