开云体育

Has anyone built their Super Tuna ][+ ver .4 in recent years? I have one built, but not fully functional yet. I am building another one, 1 stage at a time to compare DC & RF voltages at each section.

Hi - thanks for the offer! I splurged eight bucks on a box of various transistors from Uncle Bezos. Will get here on Friday. In the mean time I'll see if I can wrestle with my de-soldering tool and

Sure sounds like Q3 is partially on or in trouble. You MIGHT be able to check the junctions with your meter, but it is in circuit. You MIGHT find a big problem. Better to pull it out and check the

OK - finally back to radio stuff - sorry for the delay. Yes, Q3 is the 2N3906 and is installed per the silkscreen E/B/C holes. I re-soldered all three connections, just to be sure. Also, that R4

Also look and see if one end of R9 is at/near ground. -HRS H. Russell Smith, N0QLT

It sounds like the keying circuit is not working as advertised. I think you've already gotten that far since you can hear at least the oscillator and the LED is on. I'd first check Q3 is indeed a PNP

Hi - new to the group, need some troubleshooting guidance. I just finished assembling the Two Tinned Tunas kit and have issues. Let me begin by saying that I'm no E.E. - I've been a

I am building the Beaconator ][ based on my success of the 40th TT2 transmitter. My original on 40M was modified to increase the power with a metal transistor body & heatsink which netted around 850mw

Digikey dot com provided the inductors and the mica caps I needed to build up a couple of my Lil Squal/Beaconator Band modules. I needed 3.3uH and .330uH inductors plus misc small values. In a

Well, my #2 Buildathon 40th anniversary TT2 was built yesterday with 30M in mind, plus the higher power mods.? I requested the 2N3866 final to be in place of the PN2222A, plus I replaced the 56 ohm

I had Chuck Carpenter pull out his Sea Sprite and he was able to measure 510mw from his SS into a dummy load of 54 ohms. The circuit configuration is at maximum power, thus the logical choice for

I'm just starting to build my Sea Sprinte from the March 2023 Buildathon in which we lost Spectrum Internet during the Build sessions and I also had blown out my ACL then. I am deciding to eliminate

I changed R7 of 56 ohm to a fixed 2-ohm metal-film resistor instead of the trim-pot. I am using the 49.6-ohm dummy load from the Tuna Helper. I used two Fluke series 73, a Lowe's electrician special

Just upgrading the transistor Q2 from the stock PN2222A to 2N3866 (metal) with the heatsink borrowed from my Super Tuna Kit has yielded an increase in output power from 275mw to 355mw, relatively

Seems to work nicely, now to go soak my old eyeballs for the night. Using the old rubberized alligator clip cover to pull over the wires and the electrical components proved to be a good idea. Now I

I'm doing a little RF Probe assembly tonight, let's see if my eyes can zero in on the action ... Davey --KU9L?

When considering moving your 40th Anniversary TT2 to a new band, do not forget to follow the IN to OUT path when choosing component values from a chart. The 40th Anniversary TT2 Schematic is laid out

Super Tuna assembly is now essentially complete and I am entering the tweaking and troubleshooting stage. I built the 30M Band Module first do to that band being more open during daylight hours in the

It appears I do have the Limerick Paddles with the built-in PicoKeyer chip, but it appears to not be complete as it is missing the 3-volt battery coin holder. I did not know the size needed, I

I am just starting to build my SKK CW Keyer module and noticed there is only a schematic on the listing as there was never a Buildier's Guide created. Are there any special considerations to watch for