Has anyone built their Super Tuna ][+ ver .4 in recent years? I have one built, but not fully functional yet. I am building another one, 1 stage at a time to compare DC & RF voltages at each section. I will record those readings on my schematics.
Cheers,
Davey --KU9L
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Re: Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
Hi - thanks for the offer! I splurged eight bucks on a box of various transistors from Uncle Bezos. Will get here on Friday. In the mean time I'll see if I can wrestle with my de-soldering tool and get the questionable Q3 removed.
?Will report back here after the surgery is complete. :-)
--
K7TXA / Eagle, ID
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Re: Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
Sure sounds like Q3 is partially on or in trouble.
You MIGHT be able to check the junctions with your meter, but it is in circuit. You MIGHT find a big problem. Better to pull it out and check the junctions.
If you don't have a 2N3906, just about any silicon PNP in that class will work just fine. -2N4403, 2N2907, etc. Nothing special about it.
I'm sure I've got something ?in my stash someplace. I've got some stuff in storage. ?If you can't find one in your junkbox, let me know and I'll see if I can rustle up a few 3906 or 4403 units and drop them in the mail. Confirm on offlist if your QRZ address is good.
-HRS
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On Mar 7, 2024, at 11:15?AM, Jim Bennett / K7TXA via groups.io <w6jhb@...> wrote:
?OK - finally back to radio stuff - sorry for the delay.
Yes, Q3 is the 2N3906 and is installed per the silkscreen E/B/C holes. I re-soldered all three connections, just to be sure. Also, that R4 jumper reads just a tad under 3 volts when power is applied. Same voltage as at the base and collector of Q3.?
?Just taking a wild-ass guess here, but since the LED is lit, it is getting voltage and shouldn't be until the key is pressed OR if Q3 has given up the ghost. Yes?
?Perhaps replacing Q3 is worth a try - I'll see if there are any on Amazon that I can get without having to buy a bazillion of them.
--
K7TXA / Eagle, ID
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Re: Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
OK - finally back to radio stuff - sorry for the delay.
Yes, Q3 is the 2N3906 and is installed per the silkscreen E/B/C holes. I re-soldered all three connections, just to be sure. Also, that R4 jumper reads just a tad under 3 volts when power is applied. Same voltage as at the base and collector of Q3.?
?Just taking a wild-ass guess here, but since the LED is lit, it is getting voltage and shouldn't be until the key is pressed OR if Q3 has given up the ghost. Yes?
?Perhaps replacing Q3 is worth a try - I'll see if there are any on Amazon that I can get without having to buy a bazillion of them.
--
K7TXA / Eagle, ID
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Re: Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
Also look and see if one end of R9 is at/near ground.
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On Mar 7, 2024, at 8:50?AM, Russell Smith via groups.io <n0qlt@...> wrote:
? It sounds like the keying circuit is not working as advertised. I think you've already gotten that far since you can hear at least the oscillator and the LED is on. ?I'd first check Q3 is indeed a PNP (2N3906/2N2907/2N4403, etc.) and installed correctly (orientation/solder) and the values of related parts are at least visually correct.
For good measure, check if the jumper above R4 isn't somehow shorted to Vcc (e.g., in the wrong spot)
-HRS
P1 is a "drive" control and will vary output power. On Mar 7, 2024, at 12:25?AM, Jim Bennett / K7TXA via groups.io <w6jhb@...> wrote:
?Hi - new to the group, need some troubleshooting guidance.
I just finished assembling the Two Tinned Tunas kit and have issues. Let me begin by saying that I'm no E.E. - I've been a programmer/analyst since 1967, not an electronic guru. OK, On the positive side, no components let out the magic smoke when I powered up the rig. But... the red LED comes on immediately after applying 13vdc power - no key plugged in. In addition, on my Kenwood TS-890 I do hear a weak tone at 7.029.584 as soon as power is applied. With power off, I checked the key contacts for continuity and they are NOT shorted out.
I did some voltage measurements and am puzzled by what I see. At the power input side of R9 (and the base of Q3)I have 13vdc, as expected. On Q3's Emitter and collector is about 3VDC. Why is there voltage there with the key not pressed?
Second question - is the LED only supposed to light up when the rig is keyed?
Third question - what is P1, the variable resistor supposed to do?
Now, taking one step backwards, when I first applied power I noticed the LED light up without being keyed so I shut it off and started checking my work. The one thing I did find is that the instructions for Q2 did not match up with the type of transistor that I got. The instructions had me build those funky little things to plug Q2 into and the outline on the silkscreen did not match the style of the 2N2222 I got. Closer examination showed that I had got the emitter and collector reversed. Not knowing if this may have damaged the Q2, I replaced it with a new one I had tin stock and put it in the right way. Would having the emitter and collector installed reversed on Q2 case any component to be damaged?
Anyway, if anyone can shed some light on what might be wrong or where I can look next, that would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Jim / K7TXA ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Re: Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
It sounds like the keying circuit is not working as advertised. I think you've already gotten that far since you can hear at least the oscillator and the LED is on. ?I'd first check Q3 is indeed a PNP (2N3906/2N2907/2N4403, etc.) and installed correctly (orientation/solder) and the values of related parts are at least visually correct.
For good measure, check if the jumper above R4 isn't somehow shorted to Vcc (e.g., in the wrong spot)
-HRS
P1 is a "drive" control and will vary output power.
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On Mar 7, 2024, at 12:25?AM, Jim Bennett / K7TXA via groups.io <w6jhb@...> wrote:
?Hi - new to the group, need some troubleshooting guidance.
I just finished assembling the Two Tinned Tunas kit and have issues. Let me begin by saying that I'm no E.E. - I've been a programmer/analyst since 1967, not an electronic guru. OK, On the positive side, no components let out the magic smoke when I powered up the rig. But... the red LED comes on immediately after applying 13vdc power - no key plugged in. In addition, on my Kenwood TS-890 I do hear a weak tone at 7.029.584 as soon as power is applied. With power off, I checked the key contacts for continuity and they are NOT shorted out.
I did some voltage measurements and am puzzled by what I see. At the power input side of R9 (and the base of Q3)I have 13vdc, as expected. On Q3's Emitter and collector is about 3VDC. Why is there voltage there with the key not pressed?
Second question - is the LED only supposed to light up when the rig is keyed?
Third question - what is P1, the variable resistor supposed to do?
Now, taking one step backwards, when I first applied power I noticed the LED light up without being keyed so I shut it off and started checking my work. The one thing I did find is that the instructions for Q2 did not match up with the type of transistor that I got. The instructions had me build those funky little things to plug Q2 into and the outline on the silkscreen did not match the style of the 2N2222 I got. Closer examination showed that I had got the emitter and collector reversed. Not knowing if this may have damaged the Q2, I replaced it with a new one I had tin stock and put it in the right way. Would having the emitter and collector installed reversed on Q2 case any component to be damaged?
Anyway, if anyone can shed some light on what might be wrong or where I can look next, that would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Jim / K7TXA ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Two Tined Tunas - Need Some Help
Hi - new to the group, need some troubleshooting guidance.
I just finished assembling the Two Tinned Tunas kit and have issues. Let me begin by saying that I'm no E.E. - I've been a programmer/analyst since 1967, not an electronic guru. OK, On the positive side, no components let out the magic smoke when I powered up the rig. But... the red LED comes on immediately after applying 13vdc power - no key plugged in. In addition, on my Kenwood TS-890 I do hear a weak tone at 7.029.584 as soon as power is applied. With power off, I checked the key contacts for continuity and they are NOT shorted out.
I did some voltage measurements and am puzzled by what I see. At the power input side of R9 (and the base of Q3)I have 13vdc, as expected. On Q3's Emitter and collector is about 3VDC. Why is there voltage there with the key not pressed?
Second question - is the LED only supposed to light up when the rig is keyed?
Third question - what is P1, the variable resistor supposed to do?
Now, taking one step backwards, when I first applied power I noticed the LED light up without being keyed so I shut it off and started checking my work. The one thing I did find is that the instructions for Q2 did not match up with the type of transistor that I got. The instructions had me build those funky little things to plug Q2 into and the outline on the silkscreen did not match the style of the 2N2222 I got. Closer examination showed that I had got the emitter and collector reversed. Not knowing if this may have damaged the Q2, I replaced it with a new one I had tin stock and put it in the right way. Would having the emitter and collector installed reversed on Q2 case any component to be damaged?
Anyway, if anyone can shed some light on what might be wrong or where I can look next, that would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Jim / K7TXA ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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I am building the Beaconator ][ based on my success of the 40th TT2 transmitter. My original on 40M was modified to increase the power with a metal transistor body & heatsink which netted around 850mw output. I didn't have a QSO with it yet as there is much QRN at the RV park and 40M is done for the day by the time I get my wife back from Physical Therapy, plus the skeeters here kill you after 4 pm. I went to the WMA to do a POTA activation, but they close 30min after sunset & there is a 1000x more skeeter supply.
I purchased a 2nd 40th TT2 and put it on 30M, I get a decent 800mw from it. I may use it at an activation very soon should my wife's PT and my father-in-law's nursing home rehab visits give me a free morning. My biggest issue is my arthritis with using a straight key. QRPp POTA requires calling CQ endless times before you get your first response and then they trickle in from there. I have a Pico Keyer Plus on order.
Seeing the Beaconator ][ has similar circuits plus a Pico Keyer built-in, and it has band modules that also require swapping out cap Cx and L1 inductor with the band module change. I am waiting for my 17M parts to come, but I built up the band modules I had parts for (some robbing of other Tuna kits of course, LOL) and did the power mod to change the final to metal with heatsink. These are my results.
80M - Not built yet. 40M - 530mw, very good CW signal. 30M - 590mw, very good CW signal. 20M - 424mw, very good CW signal. 17M - Not built yet. 18.096MHz crystal. 10M - 092mw, good to very good CW signal.
10M was quite the challenge as it wasn't originally intended on the original design. I used the chart from the Super Tuna band modules to wind two 37-6 toroids to get the 200uH and 270uH inductors, plus scrounged the caps required. Also, Inductor L1 and cap Cx had to be determined. I noticed that the schematic specified that L1 be 10x the values of L2 and L3. Since I was using values from another chart I did not have any 2uH or 2.7uH values for L1. I first tried a 3uH Inductor and the power output was very low. I then tried a 1uH Inductor for L1 and the Output power was 134mw, but the signal had a large chirp on it. I then put two 1uH inductors in series to get 2uH and the signal cleaned up 95-98%, maybe a 2.2uH would be perfect? The power output dropped to 85mw and then I experimented with various caps on Cx from 27pf up to 82pf. The 28.060MHz crystal is oscillating 5.5Khz low. When I choose anything from 39pf to 27pf, the frequency does not pull as low, but the Tuna Helper does not switch the T/R relay even though the waveform sounds great in the receiver. When I choose anything from 47pf up to 82pf, the T/R relay works great on the Tuna Helper, but the transistor frequency pulls further down in freq AND the power output radically starts dropping off. When 10M is open, 92mw will work great with a good antenna, which isn't usually what a POTA antenna setup consists of, but I am willing to give it a go with a dipole kit I have not built yet, I was just waiting to know what band to build it for.
The weird part? I tried three 28.060MHz crystals. Two of them resonated at 28.055MHz and the third 28.095MHz (Right in the Digital portion of the band)!!! When I measured the power output, I got 695mw!!!!!! What?!? The signal though, had a large chirp on it from the limitation in L1. It is a Raltron brand and I have no idea what characteristics are different about it other than I am setting this Red Headed stepchild aside to deal with later.
After I get my band modules done, I will build up my Sea Sprite from last spring that I could not get to during the Buildathon and then I will commence troubleshooting my Super Tuna ][+ which is built, but has no oscillator signal. I see the red LED from the keying circuit, I just have to find that wrong or backward part that is haunting my power-up tests.
Cheers,
Davey --KU9L
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Off the shelf parts to fill in my gaps
Digikey dot com provided the inductors and the mica caps I needed to build up a couple of my Lil Squal/Beaconator Band modules. I needed 3.3uH and .330uH inductors plus misc small values. In a previous build, I was able to parallel a 27pf and 56pf cap to get 83pf for the 82pf the chart required (close enough to the tolerance band hopefully), but it is so much nicer to have the actual value in my bin already. For 10M I chose to wind two toroids for the band module using the chart from the Super Tuna band modules.
I ordered an 18.096 MHz (QRP Freq) crystal for 17M from Vakits dot com, which also has some varied 7 MHz crystals for a more complete coverage of the 40M band CW portions. These guys have some of the electronic parts Digikey did not and if in stock I get the order in 3 days typically.
I have a father-in-law just out of the Hospital who went into Rehab so I am time-challenged to do my anticipated POTA activation, but after we get the inside and outside of his RV refurbished I instead to POTA several times before we head north out of FL for the winter toward Chicago in April and then Colorado in May for the summer to work.
Davey --KU9L
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Well, my #2 Buildathon 40th anniversary TT2 was built yesterday with 30M in mind, plus the higher power mods.?
I requested the 2N3866 final to be in place of the PN2222A, plus I replaced the 56 ohm R7 emitter bias resistor with a 1/2-watt 2 ohm metal film resistor. I replaced 100pf C2 with a 68pf & dropped in a 10.106 & 10.116MHz crystal that currently has a nice pure tone on 10.11469MHz under a 49.6 ohm dummy load. VOM measures 8.52 volts for a stable output of 802mw according to the formula.
The bandpass filter I substituted two 37-6 (yellow) toroids as called out by the original TTT schematic for a set of 37-2 (red). The caps I rummaged through my spare parts bin matched the band module of the Super Tuna chart better.?
I will save the yellow toroids for the 10M version on my ST & my Beaconator ][ TX as the chart calls out for it specifically.?
Anyway, getting 2 days of rain here so will cut a set of wires for 30M for my Tuna Tunah Tuner & am setting up a sked up with Aaron, W4ARB who usually does a morning POTA from Tuscigee NF 2-3 days a week in central AL on 30M.?
I also want to whip up my Limerick Paddles keyer yet to save my wrist. Now that I got the original Tuna Helper T/R switch and the ][ version both working, I can get a generic pelican case going for each station setup so I can grab & go for my skeds & POTA activations.
I will be working on my Beaconator ][ next, having 4 band modules, thinking of my favorite POTA bands now, but also bands I haven't already built. I have higher power rigs I use often, but always have solder melting on the bench.
Below is from my testing tonight. Cheers,
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Re: Sea Sprite Rip Van Winkle Style
I had Chuck Carpenter pull out his Sea Sprite and he was able to measure 510mw from his SS into a dummy load of 54 ohms. The circuit configuration is at maximum power, thus the logical choice for more power is the Rock or Tuna Topper. I have two unbuilt Tuna Topper ][ and Tuna Topper ][+ kits, without band modules, so once I get my next round of transmitters built I will work on them. I will get some potential Activation on video even if just a couple of contacts. Thomas K4SWL has throttled back several of his QRP rigs to 100mw and worked 10+ contacts on compromised antennas, so it is all about catching the band on a good propagation day.
There have been some real good band conditions this winter, one never knows when I will be able to get to a POTA activation. Many of my favorite activation places close an hour after sunset when 40M starts heating up, so most likely my attempts will be on 30M or 20M if I can get away before the day heats up in central FL. I must combine it with a lunch trip to Woody's BBQ to avoid too much stinkeye from my wife. My activations are her extra chances to Skype with our son & grandbabies.
Cheers,
Davey --KU9L
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Sea Sprite Rip Van Winkle Style
I'm just starting to build my Sea Sprinte from the March 2023 Buildathon in which we lost Spectrum Internet during the Build sessions and I also had blown out my ACL then.
I am deciding to eliminate the Receiver section since I have a better Icom communication receiver I use with my Tuna Helper T/R switching. Some were reporting ~500-600mw of power via the full-blown version. I am also eliminating the NoTune Antenna Coupler so I can use my 49:1 EFHW. I know it is capable of putting out slightly more power than a half-watt so I am going to ask if anyone has any ideas on the best way to boost that to 700-800mw or so. Since the 10K ohm emitter bias resistor on the 2N3866 is grounded during transmit, there is little resistor to change it. There is less reason IMHO to messing with any of the base voltage dividers as that could cause instability of the Oscillator circuit, however I can play with that when I get that far. I am going to keep it running up in the old Novice band (7.110MHz) portion as I do see some POTA activators up there from time to time and portions of that section are mostly free of FT8 activity except mainly for contesting.
Cheers,
Davey - KU9L
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Re: P2222A to 2N3866 on TT2
I changed R7 of 56 ohm to a fixed 2-ohm metal-film resistor instead of the trim-pot. I am using the 49.6-ohm dummy load from the Tuna Helper. I used two Fluke series 73, a Lowe's electrician special VOM, and a Harbor Freight real cheapie VOM to compare readings.
- The original configuration with the 56-ohm resistor and the Q2?PN2222A transistor yielded ~275mw.
- With the PN2222A uptraded to the 2N3866, I measured ~355mw.
- With the 56-ohm R7 up traded to the 2.0-Ohm metal-film resistor, I measured 8.81 Volts across the dummy load Peak-n-hold circuit initially, and after a 5-minute QSO with my dummy load, I measured 8.55 volts, All four meters were measuring withing 50mv of each other, the above is the average of all four.
Initially: 8.81 Volts Peak RMS x 0.707 = 6.23 volts. 6.23 + 0.3 volts (diode drop of peak-n-hold circuit) = 6.53 (6.53)^2/49.6 (Dummy Load resistance) = 860mw (Initial cold power output).
After a 5-minute QSO warmup: 8.55 x 0.707 = 6.04 volts 6.04 + 0.3 = 6.34 volts (Including diode) (6.34)^2/49.6 = 810 mw
This is not bad for the baby brother of the Super Tuna. For those who do not think that 810mw is much power, in 1987-1988 I worked all 50 States with my Heathkit HW-9's Power Turned down to 1-Watt Output. The secret was good coax and a 40M rotatable Dipole mounted at 50 ft high and also a 3 ele Yagi on 15M mounted at 50 ft. Both were borrowed antennas and I started with 40M and after getting about 36 states from N. IL, I switched up to 15M for about 9 months. This included collecting all of the QSL cards and verifying that they were all correct. I did this operating casually before work, after work, weekends, and Holidays when I wasn't working overtime, attending holiday meals, doing the garden, mowing the lawn, doing Honey-Do chares, or operating 6M/2M/70CM/1296 CW/SSB Terrestrial & Hamsats which was my main love for about 6 years.
I have another 40th Anniversary TT2, Plus a Beaconator ][?on the way as I want to be set up for 40M, 30M, and 20M POTA. I plan to get the Beaconator setup for 17M and 10M with band modules in addition to 20M. I do operate with my Full Gallon 5-watt rigs and even my 100-watt Icom IC-718 for POTA (Even SSB 5% of the time), but hey, now that my wife and I are on SSA it is time for a little more fun ...
If anyone sees a Patented QRPme misteak in my math from above, I get it, I was the rare right-brained engineer and technician during my aerospace career ... LOL.
Now to schedule a POTA outing to K-6298 at Crooked Lake Wildlife& Environmental Area in the next week or so. My issue is that 40M is less effective by the time I get the wife up, get her medication, make her breakfast, get her dressed for outdoors, & stuff her into the truck. Such is the For Better or Worse Clause & what we do for True Love. ;-) 30M and 20M would be better choices during the here and now for mid-day POTA Activations. I will try to get the video camera to record a portion of the Activations.
Cheers,
Davey - KU9L
On Thursday, February 8, 2024 at 06:37:14 PM EST, David Knapp via groups.io <renewables@...> wrote:
Just upgrading the transistor Q2 from the stock PN2222A to 2N3866 (metal) with the heatsink borrowed from my Super Tuna Kit has yielded an increase in output power from 275mw to 355mw, relatively speaking, without touching the 56-ohm emitter bias resistor. There is slightly more gain in the upgraded part number. We were cautioned in the Buildathon not to reduce the 56-ohm resistor to zero without close monitoring of the temperature of the transistor. I bought a whole variety assortment of trim pots and have clipped off one leg to install it in place of the stock R7. It measures a minimum of 2.2 ohms to ~113 ohms, so it should yield good results in obtaining that near 700mw goal. I do have a couple of versions of the Tuna Topper, so controlling the input power to the final amp would make it a useful feature.
Davey - KU9L
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Just upgrading the transistor Q2 from the stock PN2222A to 2N3866 (metal) with the heatsink borrowed from my Super Tuna Kit has yielded an increase in output power from 275mw to 355mw, relatively speaking, without touching the 56-ohm emitter bias resistor. There is slightly more gain in the upgraded part number. We were cautioned in the Buildathon not to reduce the 56-ohm resistor to zero without close monitoring of the temperature of the transistor. I bought a whole variety assortment of trim pots and have clipped off one leg to install it in place of the stock R7. It measures a minimum of 2.2 ohms to ~113 ohms, so it should yield good results in obtaining that near 700mw goal. I do have a couple of versions of the Tuna Topper, so controlling the input power to the final amp would make it a useful feature.
Davey - KU9L
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Seems to work nicely, now to go soak my old eyeballs for the night. Using the old rubberized alligator clip cover to pull over the wires and the electrical components proved to be a good idea.
Now I can start working on some of these backlogged projects I am troubleshooting.
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I'm doing a little RF Probe assembly tonight, let's see if my eyes can zero in on the action ...
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Left to Right, Right to Left, In to Out and Reverse
When considering moving your 40th Anniversary TT2 to a new band, do not forget to follow the IN to OUT path when choosing component values from a chart. The 40th Anniversary TT2 Schematic is laid out real nice, but when looking at the Band Pass filter notice that it is printed Right to Left for the IN to OUT path.? When you are looking at a filter chart (E.G.?) in addition to having to keep the new part identifier in mind, you also have to consider it will present those Band Pass values in a Left to Right manner. This way you will spend less time standing on your head with the RF Probe wondering just what the meter is showing. Maybe this fact is obvious to some, however, I am the most Dyslexic person on the planet, LOL.
Happy experimenting ...
Cheers,
Davey --KU9L
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Super Tuna assembly is now essentially complete and I am entering the tweaking and troubleshooting stage. I built the 30M Band Module first do to that band being more open during daylight hours in the winter, especially when picnic table operation early morning or at dinner time involves dealing with herds of the Florida state bird flocks that carry you away unless you are walking at battlespeed.
- Initial power-up revealed the Red LED cycled perfectly during straight key closes. Good, the keying circuit is working. - Tuning in on my receiver on the table, I found the signal at 10.11454 MHz with the VXO turned to the extreme left limit. I am using a 10.116 MHz crystal. - Turning the VXO to the extreme right limit, the signal moved to 10.14655 MHz. That is a nice 3 KHz range and the XVO tunes as smooth and as linear as a VFO. - In my book, this meant transformer T1 Primary was connected and functioning with the oscillator doing exactly what it should be doing. The waveform sounded crisp and stable with a high chance the component values were correct and soldered correctly. - I then installed the final Q3 transistor into its socket and added its heatsink. The sound in the receiver did not change, but the RF Probe circuit does not register a voltage, the final amplifier Q3 isn't switching perhaps. I traced the circuit back from the RF Probe (Peak-n-Hold circuit) to the collector of Q3 and everything appears to be correct, including the bandpass filter (which has no immediate bearing on Q3 turning on). At this point I verified the Transformer T1 again, the windings are correct, 25T Primary & 5T Secondary. My T1 is 90 deg turned from the instructions due to the direction I wound the first turn, but all subsequent turns followed the same pattern to use as minimal wire as possible and no soldered wires crossing each other. Primary & Secondary wires are soldered in the correct solder pads.
- Next step: I added solder tinning to the transistor legs as they fit too loose in the 3 pins for my comfort. I tried several 2N3866 transistors with no change in action. Zener ZD1 is the correct part as well as all resistors and caps.? I wondered if adding solder to the legs to tin the transistor legs risked ESD failure. I have not yet replaced the 3-pins soldered into the board that forms a socket, I have nothing in the junk box that will work better. - Later today I will take more measurements with the RF Probe to gain some more data for comparison. Notes: There are two Q3 transistors on the schematic, the one in the Keying Circuit is actually Q4. The R10 on the schematic current limiting the Red LED is actually R11 and R10 is assigned to be a current limiting resistor for the optional LED that would iluminate the PWR and FUN trim pots (LED not installed here). If measured voltages at the Base of Q3 are insufficient to turn it on, I will try rewinding although the form looks very ideal. Winding it for T1 to be turned 90 deg should not affect BE Voltage measurements in any way. If BE Voltage measurements are good, I may try lifting ZD1 as it could be clamping too low although it does not show as being shorted either.
Back to the fun after a walk with the wife ...
Davey - KU9L
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It appears I do have the Limerick Paddles with the built-in PicoKeyer chip, but it appears to not be complete as it is missing the 3-volt battery coin holder. I did not know the size needed, I ordered one from Amazon for the CR 2032 as I have lots of those coin batteries lying around I use in my Tire Pressure monitoring sensors for my RV. The holder is cool but turns out to be 3x as big as the OEM part on the Limerick paddle, must be the rear tinier hearing aid size, oops. There are notes to do a mod hack to supply the voltage needed from an external source, but won't go that route until I exhaust my other sources. I still prefer my German paddles, but looks like a fun kit to share with the grand kids who practice sending their names when Poppi comes to visit.
Davey
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I am just starting to build my SKK CW Keyer module and noticed there is only a schematic on the listing as there was never a Buildier's Guide created. Are there any special considerations to watch for in the building sequence? Although similar but different, I have printed the?PicoKeyer Module Builder's Guide to aid in my assembly efforts. I combed over all of my old kits and did not find a?PicoKeyer Module, one of the few I never obtained.?
I bought quite a few QRPme kits in the middle of the last decade but was stricken by sudden cataracts that temporarily ended my newly revamped Ham Career, especially my soldering. It took over three years to get my cataract surgeries as we had no health coverage and by then all my QRPme kits were replaced by 2-3 newer versions, however, I do build some of the older ones yet today and also enjoy mining them for parts when needed!
I have not fired up my newly built Super Tuna yet, but am working toward trying to connect with Aaaron W4ARB, who does 30M POTA activations from Tuskegee NF 2-3 days per week from Eastern AL which is about 475 miles from where I am here near Winter Haven, FL. 10.116 MHz is where we try to connect mornings.
A 2-3 hour POTA session was too much for my 62-year-old straight key fist when I had a 20-year absence from keying. Even my big buck German keyer with magnetic bearings can be a bit much for my wrists and my two Pennteck 5W QRP rigs allow two message memories that save my bacon as I try to stretch from 14 wpm to 22 wpm again. I QRS when POTA Activating near 7.110-7.122 MHz, but my sending limitation is my bottleneck over my ability to "contest" at reasonable speeds. When I was 15 years old a retired Railroad guy named Rusty showed me he could send or copy 35 wpm simultaneously while holding a conversation with me, and he was in a wheelchair. His Keyer was a bug, but he also had a Keyer full of vacuum tubes that had a wonderful sound. Two years later when I got my Novice ticket I found out that he had passed away, the world hasn't been the same since. So the SKK Keyer for my Super Tuna ][+ is going to save my bacon, half the trick is not to use my manual tools the day before so my wrist feels more like a spring chicken ...
Cheers,
Davey --KU9L
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David Knapp