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Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Daniel--

Are you using a x10 probe?? Also, I'd try adjusting the power pot down and see if it cleans up.??

-HRS

H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 06:24:50 PM CST, Daniel KK4MRN via groups.io <sqldan2000@...> wrote:


Hello Russel,
Not sure why this topic morphed into something else.? I am still trying to fix my radio. There is improvement.

I am getting a signal on my oscilloscope now while the rf output goes into a 50ohm dummy load.? Not sure if the signal looks ok considering what I see at the top.? Two peaks.
If I remove the final, so signal on the scope.
And I can still hear it on a receiver on 7.110 MHz.

Nice to see the red light glowing when I key.

I still need to build my peak detector, but the weekend is almost over...??

73 Daniel KK4MRN


QSO Today BUILDATHON KIT (#9) SST+ on Mar 25 2023

Daniel KK4MRN
 

Hello all,
Rex updated the QRPme web site the other day to include to the following link:

QSO Today BUILDATHON KIT (#9) SST+ on Mar 25 2023
$45


QSO Today Virtual Ham Expo?is the first and only on-line amateur radio convention, since August 2020.? ?
Event tickets and registration cost $15.00 per person for the Expo weekend and 30 day on demand period
March 25-26, 2023

From the QRPme web page:
The Sea Sprite Transceiver + is a new re-working of the Sea Sprite currently in the QRPme tuna can line. The original Sea Sprite was reconfigured into a larger sized tuna can, spreading out the parts a little for an even easier building experience.

Scroll down and see the "Additional Included Items" for the buildathon.? ?
Also, see a previous message from Rex where he said this kit would be a good way for a new ham to get on 40 meters.

Features included in the NEW Sea Sprite transceiver+ are:


Bigger pcb has more space between components.

Bigger pads

Wider traces

Larger clearances around pads

Higher probability of completion without soldering errors

Latest low insertion loss low pass filter

Reduced parts count for faster building time
Added antenna coupler for instant hookup to 1/2 wave End Fed Zepp antenna

Additional included items for the QSO Today Expo Buildathon are a straight key kit and enough wire to construct a 1/2 wave End Fed Zepp antenna
To GOTA (GetOnTheAir) with everyone else, the builder will need to supply a 12V battery and a set of Walkman style headphones. Of course you will have to have a minimal about of construction tools to build the kit.

We are encouraging an online operating event on Saturday night and again early Sunday morning. A whole Buildathon*s (well almost whole) worth of transceivers all operating on the same 40m frequency (7110) at the same time and with the same antenna should provide a practical real time test as to the performance of this QRPp rig.

A second QSO Expo session is scheduled on Sunday in which we will discuss the results of the event, provide info as to how to improve your HF operations and also hold a Q&A session as time allows.

Docs for the ORIGINAL Sea Sprite are shown below. The new Sea Sprite+ boards are on order and new documentation will be posted as soon as they are developed....

Original message from Rex:
/g/QRpmeKits/message/328

Note, the original Sea Sprite transceiver Kit is found here in case you want to build it instead for $30



Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

Daniel KK4MRN
 

Hello Russel,
Not sure why this topic morphed into something else.? I am still trying to fix my radio. There is improvement.

I am getting a signal on my oscilloscope now while the rf output goes into a 50ohm dummy load.? Not sure if the signal looks ok considering what I see at the top.? Two peaks.
If I remove the final, so signal on the scope.
And I can still hear it on a receiver on 7.110 MHz.

Nice to see the red light glowing when I key.

I still need to build my peak detector, but the weekend is almost over...??

73 Daniel KK4MRN


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Rex,

Thanks for the info. I ordered a few 2n2222a with T018 cases and some heat sinks for them. When I have a chance I'll try them out.

I have a few alternative analog SWR/Power meters built and will hook up my double needle meters and see if I can get them 'calibrated' against my other power reading sources. I do love the tweekiness of a good analog meter. It feels like your adding some art the the tuning process.? I always put in a transistor socket for the final since I ordered a tube of sockets a couple of years ago. I agree, for us tinkerers its the best idea.

I and another ham are giving a presentation on the (TR)uSDX to our club. I seem to have interested a few of the members to get that box and the QRP fun seems to be spreading in the group. I regularly bring my latest kits (many from you) to meetings. The other club I belong to is having a show and tell this week, I'll have a handful of rigs, test equipment .. there too. Some time this summer if you would like to do a zoom presentation or talk on QRP things let me know.? I love to spread the special pleasure of minimalism and portability.?

? ? ---John AC9UV
??
? ? ?73

?

On 02/12/2023 11:07 AM Rex Harper <tunacankits@...> wrote:


On 2/12/2023 2:42 AM, John Putnum, AC9UV wrote:
Rex,

Interesting. Your TT2-EZ has a 2N3866 final transistor where the current 
design of the Two Tinned Tuna -EZ build uses a 2n2222a for the final. Is that a change? would a heat sinked 2n3866 give more output power? would that be an possible modification?

   Thanks, 2n222

---John AC9UV 

Gangue,

From the very beginning of QRPme kitting, I have included a SIP socket in my kits for not only using as a crystal socket but also as a transistor socket for the final transistor. Easily replacing a final or even better...experimenting with other transistors as finals has been a hallmark of my efforts to enable others to have FUN with their kits. So the EZB does come with a pair of PN2222 transistors for the oscillator and final. It also comes with a SIP socket and very clearly in the builders guide shows how to use it as sockets for both the crystal and final transistor.

I like the 2N3866 as I have plenty due to getting them for a VERY good price from the GQRP Club! I pop them in my builds and some kits primarily because they are TO5 cans and finding heat sinks for TO5 cans is much easier than finding sinks for TO18s (2N2222A) or TO92s (PN2222). Consulting the datasheets:

transistor? pkg?? Max collector current watts dissipation

2N2219A?? TO39??? 600mA/800pk ?? ??? ??? ??? 3W

2N2222A? TO18???? 600mA/800pk ?? ?? ??? ??? 1.8W

PN2222A? TO92??? 600mA? ????? ??? ?? ?? ??? ? ?? 625mW

2N3866??? TO39??? 400mA??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? 1W

I'd rather 'push' a whoosier final WITH a heat sink than a marginally better transistor without one... AND trying to find obsolete 2N2219A s and 2N2222s in cans is a challenge along with coming up with the coin to buy them! Jameco Electronics has 2N2222A transistors at $1.29ea which is a little cheaper than they used to be but no heat sinks for them. But their performance in the EZB is not that much better. I yanked the 2N3866 in my EZB that I tested last night and plugged in a PN2222. Power readings were pretty much the same without touching the trimmer pot. I suspect that if you wanted to run higher supply voltages you would start to bump into the collector current and heat dissipation limits and start to melt epoxy.

I really wanted to be in Orlando this weekend for the Hamcation! When my dad was alive and less than a hour away, I would take in the show nearly every year. The low rent building out back was my GOTO source for things like NOS heat sinks etc. Another GOTO place is Skycraft Surplus. Apparently they have moved into a bigger space since I last visited them....and bought every TO5 heat sink in their bin. I had 150+ in my suitcase on the way home. Long since used up but more easily findable than a TO92 or TO18 heat sink. They sell online but not as much FUN as being there in person and getting the full touchie feelie experience. They make the old RS stores look like an end cap in a truck stop convenience store!

Rex? W1REX


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On 2/12/2023 2:42 AM, John Putnum, AC9UV wrote:
Rex,

Interesting. Your TT2-EZ has a 2N3866 final transistor where the current 
design of the Two Tinned Tuna -EZ build uses a 2n2222a for the final. Is that a change? would a heat sinked 2n3866 give more output power? would that be an possible modification?

   Thanks,

---John AC9UV 

Gangue,

From the very beginning of QRPme kitting, I have included a SIP socket in my kits for not only using as a crystal socket but also as a transistor socket for the final transistor. Easily replacing a final or even better...experimenting with other transistors as finals has been a hallmark of my efforts to enable others to have FUN with their kits. So the EZB does come with a pair of PN2222 transistors for the oscillator and final. It also comes with a SIP socket and very clearly in the builders guide shows how to use it as sockets for both the crystal and final transistor.

I like the 2N3866 as I have plenty due to getting them for a VERY good price from the GQRP Club! I pop them in my builds and some kits primarily because they are TO5 cans and finding heat sinks for TO5 cans is much easier than finding sinks for TO18s (2N2222A) or TO92s (PN2222). Consulting the datasheets:

transistor? pkg?? Max collector current watts dissipation

2N2219A?? TO39??? 600mA/800pk ?? ??? ??? ??? 3W

2N2222A? TO18???? 600mA/800pk ?? ?? ??? ??? 1.8W

PN2222A? TO92??? 600mA? ????? ??? ?? ?? ??? ? ?? 625mW

2N3866??? TO39??? 400mA??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? 1W

I'd rather 'push' a whoosier final WITH a heat sink than a marginally better transistor without one... AND trying to find obsolete 2N2219A s and 2N2222s in cans is a challenge along with coming up with the coin to buy them! Jameco Electronics has 2N2222A transistors at $1.29ea which is a little cheaper than they used to be but no heat sinks for them. But their performance in the EZB is not that much better. I yanked the 2N3866 in my EZB that I tested last night and plugged in a PN2222. Power readings were pretty much the same without touching the trimmer pot. I suspect that if you wanted to run higher supply voltages you would start to bump into the collector current and heat dissipation limits and start to melt epoxy.

I really wanted to be in Orlando this weekend for the Hamcation! When my dad was alive and less than a hour away, I would take in the show nearly every year. The low rent building out back was my GOTO source for things like NOS heat sinks etc. Another GOTO place is Skycraft Surplus. Apparently they have moved into a bigger space since I last visited them....and bought every TO5 heat sink in their bin. I had 150+ in my suitcase on the way home. Long since used up but more easily findable than a TO92 or TO18 heat sink. They sell online but not as much FUN as being there in person and getting the full touchie feelie experience. They make the old RS stores look like an end cap in a truck stop convenience store!

Rex? W1REX


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

I hear what Rex is saying and kind of agree. I always say 'in region of' or 'about' / 'around' when I'm quoting measurements as most of my test gear is not factory grade or calibrated.
?
I've known my NM0S QRPometer long enough to get a feel for it's accuracy and it's amazingly good.
?
It's definitely difficult to measure QRPp transmitters accurately, the power level is so small and the act of measuring can affect the result. My oscilloscope peak voltage readings confirmed the result of my QRPometer - at 12.6v (minus protection diode), I'm getting around 400mW output on 40m. This result also ties up nicely with Rex's result.
?
So the ball park figure is 400mW.
?
My TTT EZB was fitted with a 2N3866 but I used SIP sockets, so I found a 2N2222A TO-18 and swapped it in - I saw no difference in power output at all. I'm guessing that the TO-5 2N3866 would be a little more robust but I think if you're managing to pop a final at 400mW, something is massively wrong!
?
Unless for personal amusement, squeezing every bit of last power out of a circuit is futile. I never understood the guys bragging about their RockMites having 'x' much power because they've changed 'Y' etc. The difference in signal to the guy at the other end would be undetectable. If your QRPp signal is getting there, it doesn't matter if it's 300mW or 500mW, there's no difference. You'd have to increase the power to around 2W to get one S point difference in recieved signal strength.
?
To increase power, you'd have to improve the matching in the PA circuit and improve the low pass filter. The TTTEZB schematic shows the details of how to do this. My TTT EZB modified as suggested on schematic gives me around 850mW (uncalibrated but trusted meter, YMMV!).
?
73, Colin
?
?


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Rex,

Interesting. Your TT2-EZ has a 2N3866 final transistor where the current
design of the Two Tinned Tuna -EZ build uses a 2n2222a for the final. Is that a change? would a heat sinked 2n3866 give more output power? would that be an possible modification?

Thanks,

---John AC9UV

On 02/11/2023 10:37 PM Rex Harper <tunacankits@...> wrote:


Gangue,

I just hosed up my early TT2-EZ Build transmitter to my fairly accurate
PM-1300a dummy load/power meter. Powered from my portable Jackery, the
input voltage to the TT2 was 13.4 volts. The key down power was approx
.18W. I typed approx .18 on purpose. My college physics professor taught
me something very important in Physics 101. You can't read something
from a meter and write it down or say it is fact unless you can prove it
is fact. I'm looking at an un-calibrated analog meter with an unknown
full scale accuracy and see that the needle is between 150mW and 200mW
and slightly past the middle point between the two scale markings.? So
the .18W is MY best GUESS as to the power output from the transmitter. I
thought that the output was a little on the low side so I twiddled with
the power pot over by the crystal. Holding the key down while twiddling,
I raised the output power to about .48mW with minimum resistance on the
pot. I had no heat sink on the 2N3866 final transistor so I didn't key
down for too long....

I could have said my power readings were 180mW and 480mW but THAT would
convey accuracy that I can't actually read on my meter. YOUR mileage may
vary depending on kit parts, load variations and your technique of
measurement.

Rex? W1REX






Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Gangue,

I just hosed up my early TT2-EZ Build transmitter to my fairly accurate PM-1300a dummy load/power meter. Powered from my portable Jackery, the input voltage to the TT2 was 13.4 volts. The key down power was approx .18W. I typed approx .18 on purpose. My college physics professor taught me something very important in Physics 101. You can't read something from a meter and write it down or say it is fact unless you can prove it is fact. I'm looking at an un-calibrated analog meter with an unknown full scale accuracy and see that the needle is between 150mW and 200mW and slightly past the middle point between the two scale markings.? So the .18W is MY best GUESS as to the power output from the transmitter. I thought that the output was a little on the low side so I twiddled with the power pot over by the crystal. Holding the key down while twiddling, I raised the output power to about .48mW with minimum resistance on the pot. I had no heat sink on the 2N3866 final transistor so I didn't key down for too long....

I could have said my power readings were 180mW and 480mW but THAT would convey accuracy that I can't actually read on my meter. YOUR mileage may vary depending on kit parts, load variations and your technique of measurement.

Rex? W1REX


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

Daniel KK4MRN
 

I replaced the LED and the LED works now when I key.? ?I noticed the trimmer resistor was not soldered well, so i soldered it better.

C8 and L3 is ok to flow together when you see it on the schematic.

When I hear it on my receiver, the tone sounds better.

And I made double sure that the transistors are incorrectly inserted.? Unless, I blew a final.
I have extras of those I got from mouser.??

And where would I stick an oscilloscope probe to read from the oscillator?

I have an RF Probe kit I've been meaning to build.? And I was supposed to home brew a peak detector today but have not gotten to it.? I assumed my TTT would built like last time years ago and i would already be playing with it...

I will keep going part by part...

Not sure what to check for voltages.

73 Daniel KK4MRN


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Daniel--?

Also, if your LED isn't working, you can probably check it with the diode check on your meter with no power applied. Should see something like 1.5V-2.0V drop. Since you are able to key the radio and you hear the oscillator, I'm guessing the keying circuit is working ok. If you do key down with power applied, measure the voltage at the top of the LED (junction of the resistor and the LED) to ground. If it is 0V or 12V, look at the resistor and the LED for issues.

More in a bit-- dinner time.

-HRS

H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 06:10:04 PM CST, Russell Smith via groups.io <n0qlt@...> wrote:


Daniel--

Overall, it looks like you did a terrific job!? I should show you some photos of the abominations I built when I first got started. Uggh. I shudder thinking about them now!? Yours is 100000000000% better!? In fact, in the VERY early days, all I had was a roll of what was probably acid-core radiator solder or something my dad gave me. I had it for years to remind me of those days. haha. It had to be 1/4 thick.

More than likely, it's something VERY simple like a bad solder joint. Easy enough to happen to anyone--even those of us that have been doing this for 40+ years.

The very first thing I would do is check and make sure all the components are correct and in the right place.

Next would to be to look at your soldering. There are a few places where it looks like solder didn't flow as well as you might like-- C8, L3, for example.? You might want to make sure the parts are in and flat against the board, too.

Do make sure the final transistor is in correctly.

Next, I'd start looking at voltages. Check your parts and report back, OK?

When I build stuff, I typically follow a policy of direction-- I always point the resistor (or other banded components) so they can be read right to left or up to down. I also put any parts like capacitors with the values facing me or facing to the right.? That helps me keep everything easy to see and troubleshoot.? You'll develop your own policies, but that's what I do to keep things neat and in line.

-HRS

H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 04:57:24 PM CST, Daniel KK4MRN via groups.io <sqldan2000@...> wrote:


Hello,
I was wondering if I can get some insight into why my Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild is not transmitting.

I can hear the TTT on my receiver on 7.110 when I key down, but that is probably the crystal oscillator.? I got 2 crystals: 7.030 and 7.110.

I took out the final, nothing changed.

I hooked it up to an an oscilloscope, nothing.??

Well, I wanted to use my TTT EZB for an education - well, looks like I will be getting one figuring out what is going wrong and trying to fix it.? LOL

The LED was missing or I lost it.? So, I found a red LED.? ?The LED never lights up.? I think I got A and K correct.? K is the flat side.? Or the LED consumes too much power.??

And one of the coils did not match what was mentioned in the documentation.? L2 in the docs:
L2 = 10uH = brown black black (large tubby)

There were 4 coils included in the kit.? I found the other 3.? I used what was left for L2.

Or it's my bad soldering skills.??

73 Daniel KK4MRN


Re: My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

 

Daniel--

Overall, it looks like you did a terrific job!? I should show you some photos of the abominations I built when I first got started. Uggh. I shudder thinking about them now!? Yours is 100000000000% better!? In fact, in the VERY early days, all I had was a roll of what was probably acid-core radiator solder or something my dad gave me. I had it for years to remind me of those days. haha. It had to be 1/4 thick.

More than likely, it's something VERY simple like a bad solder joint. Easy enough to happen to anyone--even those of us that have been doing this for 40+ years.

The very first thing I would do is check and make sure all the components are correct and in the right place.

Next would to be to look at your soldering. There are a few places where it looks like solder didn't flow as well as you might like-- C8, L3, for example.? You might want to make sure the parts are in and flat against the board, too.

Do make sure the final transistor is in correctly.

Next, I'd start looking at voltages. Check your parts and report back, OK?

When I build stuff, I typically follow a policy of direction-- I always point the resistor (or other banded components) so they can be read right to left or up to down. I also put any parts like capacitors with the values facing me or facing to the right.? That helps me keep everything easy to see and troubleshoot.? You'll develop your own policies, but that's what I do to keep things neat and in line.

-HRS

H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Saturday, February 11, 2023 at 04:57:24 PM CST, Daniel KK4MRN via groups.io <sqldan2000@...> wrote:


Hello,
I was wondering if I can get some insight into why my Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild is not transmitting.

I can hear the TTT on my receiver on 7.110 when I key down, but that is probably the crystal oscillator.? I got 2 crystals: 7.030 and 7.110.

I took out the final, nothing changed.

I hooked it up to an an oscilloscope, nothing.??

Well, I wanted to use my TTT EZB for an education - well, looks like I will be getting one figuring out what is going wrong and trying to fix it.? LOL

The LED was missing or I lost it.? So, I found a red LED.? ?The LED never lights up.? I think I got A and K correct.? K is the flat side.? Or the LED consumes too much power.??

And one of the coils did not match what was mentioned in the documentation.? L2 in the docs:
L2 = 10uH = brown black black (large tubby)

There were 4 coils included in the kit.? I found the other 3.? I used what was left for L2.

Or it's my bad soldering skills.??

73 Daniel KK4MRN


My Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild - Transmit Issue

Daniel KK4MRN
 

Hello,
I was wondering if I can get some insight into why my Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild is not transmitting.

I can hear the TTT on my receiver on 7.110 when I key down, but that is probably the crystal oscillator.? I got 2 crystals: 7.030 and 7.110.

I took out the final, nothing changed.

I hooked it up to an an oscilloscope, nothing.??

Well, I wanted to use my TTT EZB for an education - well, looks like I will be getting one figuring out what is going wrong and trying to fix it.? LOL

The LED was missing or I lost it.? So, I found a red LED.? ?The LED never lights up.? I think I got A and K correct.? K is the flat side.? Or the LED consumes too much power.??

And one of the coils did not match what was mentioned in the documentation.? L2 in the docs:
L2 = 10uH = brown black black (large tubby)

There were 4 coils included in the kit.? I found the other 3.? I used what was left for L2.

Or it's my bad soldering skills.??

73 Daniel KK4MRN


Re: Two Tinned Tunas - 22pF cap

Daniel KK4MRN
 

Please ignore.

No part is missing.

Brain fart in the morning.

My last cap was a 22uF electrolytic cap.

My apologies.


Two Tinned Tunas - 22pF cap

Daniel KK4MRN
 

I am missing a 22pF capacitor in my TTT EZB kit.

Can I use 2 count of 10pF ceramic capacitors instead?? These either came from Jameco or Radio Shack.
I used my multimeter against a 1000pF capacitor which has a value of 1.031nF +/- a few .001nF
I added on 10pF, I get 1.043nF
I added another 10pF, i get 1.052nF.
That last digit is not reliable because it bounces around each time I measure it.

So, will these 2 x 10pF work?

I have a 33pF ceramic 100V C0G/NP0 I got from digikey.? Or would this work?

Or do I need to get the actual 22pF capacitor???

I am asking so i can go ahead and build the kit.

Thanks,
Daniel KK4MRN


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

The power falls off as the frequency increases, and similarly the power increases as the frequency reduces. Expect about 300mW output on 30m and around 250mW on 20m.
On 80m, you'd probably get 500-600mW, but that's just a guess.
?
73, Colin


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

Dan,

I would also be interested in knowing how this varies per band also, assuming that 40M is the default for all of them

Davey - KU9L


On Fri, Feb 10, 2023 at 2:47 PM, Colin Evans M1BUU
<colin.evans2@...> wrote:
OK Daniel,
?
I've had my 40m tuna tin transmitters out on the bench. All of my 40m transmitters put out in the region of 400mW from a 12.6v regulated supply capable of 3 amps. My 12v supply is distributed via a reverse polarity protection diode (think it was a 1N5818). I have a TTT EZBuild that I built with toroids instead of RF chokes and that puts out around 850mW.

73, Colin
?


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

OK Daniel,
?
I've had my 40m tuna tin transmitters out on the bench. All of my 40m transmitters put out in the region of 400mW from a 12.6v regulated supply capable of 3 amps. My 12v supply is distributed via a reverse polarity protection diode (think it was a 1N5818). I have a TTT EZBuild that I built with toroids instead of RF chokes and that puts out around 850mW.

73, Colin
?


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Daniel,

For my TTT-EZBuild, I got readings of 264 vmax and 179 vrms. The setup was a 12v Gel cell battery in, a Heathkit cantenna 50 ohm dummy load with a direct line from that to the oscilloscope on a 1:1 setting.? I noticed in poking around in the circuit that the input voltage to the input signal to Q2 was about the same as the output signal (voltage) so I did not see Q2 amplifying much, It seems to be more of a switch. But then maybe I don't understand the circuit well.?

The output seems clean, the low pass filter gets rid of any harmonics that I can see. The low output that seems to be ,as stated by Rex, "typical power around 250-350mW depending on power supply and build components." . That does not register on my one of my power meters.

The Sea Sprite on the other hand shows 7.2 v? max and 5.04 vrms. and .49 watts on one my watt meters. Some images attached.

? ?Let me know if you are getting similar readings from the TTTEZ.

? ?---John AC9UV

On 02/10/2023 10:49 AM Daniel KK4MRN via groups.io <sqldan2000@...> wrote:


Colin,
Can you get out your TTT EZB and test it?? I want to have numbers I can compare against.? ?I just want to be in the same ball park when it comes to power output.? ? If you have screen shots of oscilloscope, spectrum analyzer, etc... That would be cool to see as well.?

Is the radio in your photo a TTT EZB built?? And using Manhattan construction method?? Or is that some other radio?

I will be using a peak detector hooked up to a 50 ohm dummy load and a >10M ohm multimeter.? And I understand my equipment is not calibrated.? Just numbers to see what it is.? ?

73 Daniel KK4MRN


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

Yes, I'll be able to get my TTT out to test at some point.

No, the Manhattan project in the picture is a NorCal Forty-9er (N6KR of Elecraft fame).

My TTT's are standard can variety :-)

73, Colin


Re: Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild QRP Transmitter

 

Mine outputs 1.5kW.

OK, it's 1.5kW divided by a bunch.? On every TT2 I've built, It's been ~250mW or so. Maybe as much as 350mW.? My measuring method isn't too exact.? I've used both my homebrew analog dummy load wattmeter (modified slightly from EMRFD) and the Elecraft dummy load with a peak detector circuit built in it.?

It seems to me I may have also used a similar homebrew QRP dummy load/detector in an empty water chestnut or chicken chunk can I nicked from the trash bin when Mom was busy playing the NYT Spelling Bee on her phone or something. The best thing about building this stuff having to eat delicious foods "for science." I'm always dragging home something "for the can."? Not the first person to do it, I built one solid-state transmitter in a canned Ham can on a wooden base. It has a fixed-in-place crystal because it required tuning a trimmer cap. Next one will likely have a crystal socket (maybe an octal socket?) of some kind and a broadband circuit.? Nor' Easter Ham. That would be a cool Rex product, but I think the name is already taken...

As for a practical matter, measuring power in this situation really doesn't matter too much-- ball park is probably good enough to know it's working right. You'll have all kinds of losses that could change a little from day to day during operating sessions (including propagation). There will also be differences from unit to unit.? I think the litmus test is really the RBN or on air results, remembering that if you are pretty sure you've got 1/4W or a? little more leaving the rig and propagation is good, you might be heard a surprisingly long way from home.? I called CQ on 40m last night with one of the $3 eBay Pixie kits and the RBN found me 1100 miles away. I have an inverted Vee at 18ft.

My semi-educated thought on the matter is this: If you have a way to peak an output (e.g., expanding/contracting coil windings, swapping out lower-output transistors), that's a good and right thing to do. Every little bit counts at QRPp levels. BUT... the better thing is to trade a little power for a good sounding signal, if the situation arises.? Still, I wholehearted applaud your pursuit of an academic exercise. Bonus points for you! That's how I got started on the path to a career as an EE.

A final thought-- EVERYONE that likes to homebrew should build at least one TT2. It's a rite of passage for those of us that missed it the first time around (I was 5 in 1978) or at least it's something good and holy. It's funny that such an idea has influenced so many people enough to become an indisputable icon. :)

Rex-- Shoot me an email off list. I may have some information of interest to you.

-HRS

H. Russell Smith, N0QLT??? ?????????????????????????????


On Friday, February 10, 2023 at 09:22:19 AM CST, Daniel KK4MRN via groups.io <sqldan2000@...> wrote:


I got my Two Tinned Tunas Kit in the mail the other day from QRPme.com and plan on building the kit this weekend.

I even got a free gift.? A FreeKey.? I am not sure if that is included with every Two Tinned Tunas Kit.

Can others tell me a ball park figure of what the power output was for their Two Tinned Tunas EZBuild Kit?