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Soldering Station Recommendations

 

Retiring after decades in the software world, I'm now returning to the hobby of my youth, ham radio.

I purchased the QMX+ kit and look forward to building it. ?With the great documentation from QRP Labs, YouTube videos, and support on this group, I expect that I will have few if any problems. ?(Fingers crossed!)

I need to update my soldering station and I see a lot of relatively inexpensive equipment on Amazon. ?I'm willing to spend a few hundred USD, but not much more than that at this stage. ?Looking for magnifier/lamp, work holders, iron (brand, watts, temp control?), fume hood, etc.? If anyone has any passionate recommendations, or even just solid recommendations, I'm all ears.

BTW: ?I see that lead-based solder is still available for purchase (I thought it was banned years ago). ?What kind of solder should I use on the QMX+ kit? ?What thickness? ?Rosin core or not?? (The QRP Labs build instructions don't mention soldering materials.)

Also: ?Separate rosin paste dispenser/brush? ?99% Isopropyl Alcohol? ?Anything else?

I have a reasonable amount of soldering experience, but that was long before the RoHS era. ?I want to build the QMX+ boards the right way with the right materials and equipment.

Many thanks for your input!

(I hope this isn't a controversial topic!)

Happy Christmas!

?
 

Dave
?
You don't need a boatload of equipment. Also note focus is through hole construction. Don't need paste, just quality solder. I see plenty of nice enough gear out there. Definitely temperature regulation. Some swear by Hakko but others may be good enough. You may want a stand magnifier. All this should easily be in your budget.?
?
Oh I built my K2 with a plain soldering iron, but I suggest a modest investment in a soldering station.?
?
Curt
?
 

Yes, definitely good quality rosin core solder. I do keep a small bottle of liquid rosin flux because I add it to the desoldering braid when needed. I have an old Radio Shack 50 watt adjustable soldering iron. I run it at the full 50 watts on these kits. I would look for something like it to replace it when I need a new one. Another indispensable item, at least for me, is a binocular magnifying headset.??
--
73, Dan - W2DLC
 

It may seem like a lot of money but a stereozoom binocular microscope with boom stand, 10X eyepieces and an LED ring illuminator will almost give you superpowers compared to an eye loupe or headworn magnifier.
I do microelectronic design, assembly and rework of RF/microwave modules (among other services) for my clients and that is what I have found works for me.? 8x total is about right for most work.
I bought this one 5 years ago, it has served me well and it will outlast me: ?
Definitely stay away from monocular USB microscope/displays, their monocular vision and low resolution and dynamic range (both color gamut and brightness) make them poor choices, at least all of the ones I have tried.?
You really need good depth perception and !BRIGHT! shadowless illumination for soldering, etc. tasks.??
73, Don N2VGU
?
?
 

Any temperature controlled station from Hakko, Weller or Metcal will be more that adequate for ham use.
?
For a kit with new parts, you could use a leaded solder (60/40 or 63/37) with a no clean flux. Save the ugly rosin core for dirty antenna wires :-) in either case, scrub the flux off with 99% IPA and blow that off with compressed air.?
?
ROHS is not a requirement for homebrew stuff, at least in the USA. IMO, Kester still tops the list, but there are a few others out there.
?
Repairs and correcting mistakes on PTH components is a real pain without a powered vacuum desoldering tool. Check out the Hakko 808, or don't screw up!
?
Dave
 

Oh boy do I have some opinions
?
The Pinecil is the neatest thing I've ever seen and is top 3 best value items you can spend money on.
? $25 gets you an self-contained smart iron (with Bluetooth app) that is powered off USB-PD or DC jack 12v-21/24v (18v drill batteries work great)?
? I've done SOT-23 SMD work and 6AWG solder cup cannon plugs with the same iron (quick change tips)
?
Kester #44 67/33 eutectic solder? I'm more a sticker on the eutectic mix than the brand I've not heard any reasons 60/40 is better, And lead free is mandated trash and should be avoided at all cost.
? ? Thin solder is necessary for small components but works fine on larger stuff just a pain to feed in 6 inches at once. The $11 tube of .031 off amazon is very nice and decent all around to use. Solder-paste is genius for SMD components and kinda OK to help tin stuff I guess.
?
RMA flux is very cool and makes things a dream to solder compared to using just flux core solder. I got that amtech stuff Louis Rossman recommends but know nothing more about flux than that.
?
I would add a roll of MG chemicals de soldering braid, 2.5mm and 6mm. NTE blue label is what Ive always used but they are out of business so probly won't find that
?
TLDR;
Iron: buy the Pinecil and the fine tips set
Solder: kester 44 .031?
Flux: Amtech NC-559-V2-TF or other recommendations?
Also: MG chemicals de-soldering braid 2.5mm & 6mm
 

I have bought a few months ago a JBC BT-2BQA soldering station with a few different tips. With this 140W soldering iron it was convenant to solder the QMX+. A simple and good tool for electronic soldering.?
 

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??Dave,

The best investment I ever made is the Donegan Optical Loupe. ?I had two from my medical practice. They are worth the money (the Donegan brand) but like everything else the Chinese knockoffs are good also. Here is one that is recommended and looks like my original ones: ?


I also use frequently the add on flip down loupe:

This is a Donegan product and I found it quite useful. ?It fits on the front of the head loupe.

Also this lighting system has been useful for years:

?Worth the extra money.

I bought my originals from Micro-Mark but they seem to be out of stock on a lot of these items. ?My Donegan units are 30+ years old and still working and holding up well. I can’t vouch for the Chinese items but they are cheaper. The Donegan OptiLoupe runs about $70 for the basic head unit with one lens. ?I use the 2x lens 99% of the time but you can figure that from any “readers” you usually use. I use 2.5 x readers for reading and for shack close uo work but keep a set of 2.75, 3, 4 x readers in construction booth. ?

As for soldering stations I have used the Solomon brand from Amazon for years too.
This is a newer version. I use two of them, one for a fine tip and one with a heavier tip for larger items that require more heat like BNC and power connectors.

As for solder, I use Kester 60/40 that I buy from Steve, The Solder Man at Dayton. Easily available. ?Do NOT use lead free solder.

Nuff Sed,
?
Be the REASON someone smiles today.

Dave K8WPE

On Dec 24, 2024, at 3:15?PM, Curt wb8yyy via groups.io <wb8yyy@...> wrote:

?
Dave
?
You don't need a boatload of equipment. Also note focus is through hole construction. Don't need paste, just quality solder. I see plenty of nice enough gear out there. Definitely temperature regulation. Some swear by Hakko but others may be good enough. You may want a stand magnifier. All this should easily be in your budget.?
?
Oh I built my K2 with a plain soldering iron, but I suggest a modest investment in a soldering station.?
?
Curt
?

 

I've assembled, successfully, a QMX HB, a QDX LB, 2 QMX+ units, three 50W amps, numerous, small SWR/Power Meters, 2 QRPOmeters, an Elecraft dummy load and a slew of plugs, jacks, and RC aircraft connectors with a WEP 882D station. The hot air gun is very useful for shrink tubing.?

I purchased an extra basic set of tips for the WEP and a set of long, 0.5mm conical tips for touchup of small IC pins. Almost all the work done with the 1mm conical tip and the 3mm screwdriver tip for really throwing heat quickly to large tabbed jacks and such.?
400 degrees C has worked fine for me with MAX for big tabbed stuff. ( Much less for the low temp SMD solder pastes if/when you practice or rework on the real units. See the recommendations in the instructions on the ChipQuik offerings. See below for more on that).

I like Kester 63, leaded solder and have also used some Austor brand from Amazon. Those are the 0.8 mm size. I use 0.015 inch, Radio Shack solder with Silver for really fine work too. It's back and made in the USA again. Bit pricey but a little goes a long way.

I use ChipQuik brand liquid flux and practiced SMD soldering and removal on several cheap practice boards I got off Amazon with their low and high temp solder pastes. I practiced with the hot air gun here? before using it on Q units. Was able to easily replace the PA control IC on the QMX HB when I glitched the PAs doing something stupid. What helped me the most to build confidence for SMD work was watching Mr. Solder Guy videos. The guy is skilled !?

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive magnifying head band. A bit clunky but worked fine for checking component markings and general fine soldering and inspection work.

For SMD work I also got an inexpensive USB microscope. Not a lot of work room under it, but doable.?

Two thumbs up for 2.5mm and 1.5mm solder braids.
Squirt some ChipQuik flux on it. Works much better.

I also use an old Weller Stained glass soldering iron or a YiHua temp control soldering iron with a really broad tip for removing wire enamel for toroids and such. Google 'solder blob technique for removing wire enamel' and think about what you see on the videos and written explanations. You won't regret it. I did find that some of the larger wire in the kits needs a few quick scrapes with an XActo knife to give the solder blob some copper to bite on before the enamel will burn off.?

I do solder outdoors in the garage now and have a simple small desk fan to blow away the magic flux smoke.?

Take heed of the recommendations about needing to sink extra heat on component leads on the 6 layer boards in the Q series! Check connections with a simple DMM ohm meter as you go and be sure to probe on the pad areas and not the wire ends where applicable.?

A cheap, simple PC board holder is like a miracle.
Do use a grounded solder mat or simple aluminium foil covered board with a 1M ohm resistor to ground along with a proper grounding wrist strap!!!! A small purchase you won't regret.?

Have fun. You'll be amazed at the capabilities of these fine kits.

73 GREG KI4NVX?






On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 3:38 AM, KJ7RBS via groups.io
<jadonerenda@...> wrote:
Oh boy do I have some opinions
?
The Pinecil is the neatest thing I've ever seen and is top 3 best value items you can spend money on.
? $25 gets you an self-contained smart iron (with Bluetooth app) that is powered off USB-PD or DC jack 12v-21/24v (18v drill batteries work great)?
? I've done SOT-23 SMD work and 6AWG solder cup cannon plugs with the same iron (quick change tips)
?
Kester #44 67/33 eutectic solder? I'm more a sticker on the eutectic mix than the brand I've not heard any reasons 60/40 is better, And lead free is mandated trash and should be avoided at all cost.
? ? Thin solder is necessary for small components but works fine on larger stuff just a pain to feed in 6 inches at once. The $11 tube of .031 off amazon is very nice and decent all around to use. Solder-paste is genius for SMD components and kinda OK to help tin stuff I guess.
?
RMA flux is very cool and makes things a dream to solder compared to using just flux core solder. I got that amtech stuff Louis Rossman recommends but know nothing more about flux than that.
?
I would add a roll of MG chemicals de soldering braid, 2.5mm and 6mm. NTE blue label is what Ive always used but they are out of business so probly won't find that
?
TLDR;
Iron: buy the Pinecil and the fine tips set
Solder: kester 44 .031?
Flux: Amtech NC-559-V2-TF or other recommendations?
Also: MG chemicals de-soldering braid 2.5mm & 6mm

 

Hello Greg:? based on your experience with it and reviews I've read on Amazon, I'm going to order the WEP 882D.? Just $60.00 -- amazing, for so much flexibility!? The fact that you built so many QRP Labs kits with this station says a lot.??
?
Chip Quick makes an array of paste products.? Can you provide an exact recommendation?
?
I plan on ordering these other items:
?
Solder: ?
?
Helping Hands/Soldering Mat: ?
(I have doubts about its ESD suppression abilities when boards are being held off of the surface.)
?
Smoke extractor: ?
?
Any additional comments from anyone are welcome before I pull the trigger on this order!
?
Thank you!? --73

 

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I went this way and never have looked back:


and


A few more bucks, but I have used them heavily ever since. I just use a small 12v fan to blow smoke away from the work area.

Good light, good magnification, a board holder, and a few hand tools are essential.

KD4IZ

On Jan 7, 2025, at 18:25, Dave S. <KO6FAD@...> wrote:

?
Hello Greg:? based on your experience with it and reviews I've read on Amazon, I'm going to order the WEP 882D.? Just $60.00 -- amazing, for so much flexibility!? The fact that you built so many QRP Labs kits with this station says a lot.??
?
Chip Quick makes an array of paste products.? Can you provide an exact recommendation?
?
I plan on ordering these other items:
?
Solder: ?
?
Helping Hands/Soldering Mat: ?
(I have doubts about its ESD suppression abilities when boards are being held off of the surface.)
?
Smoke extractor: ?
?
Any additional comments from anyone are welcome before I pull the trigger on this order!
?
Thank you!? --73

 

On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:25 PM, Dave S. wrote:
Solder: ?
I suggest Chipquik, Multicore or Kester 63-37 with RMA core solders vs Chinese mystery metal.? I use 0.020" and 0.032" a lot, 0.015" occasionally for real fine work.??
Also a couple pf pairs of #7SA (stainless, antimagnetic) tweezers.? you will want more than one, you will invariably drop them and they will invariably land light (pointy) end down, turning the tips to "elf shoes."
https://www.techni-tool.com/product/352TW011-7-SA-SE
Antimagnetic is important because many chip components have magnetic nickel electrode plating and some ICs have magnetic lead frame material.? Both will stick annoyingly to magnetic tweezers.
?
73, Don N2VGU

 

I also recommend staying away from that Chinese solder. It is too thick. Thinner sized solder works better.
Ed
AB8DF

 

Nothing wrong with the "Chinese" part of it.
Most of the home electronics bought in the US is from China, including some very high end equipment.
There's thin and thick solder available in any market, including from China.
?
The issue would be in buying at the lowest possible price,
settling for some unspecified combination of metals and an unspecified flux type.
The exact mix of what metals determines the melting temperature, strength,?
and the temperature range between liquid and solid where it's in a mushy state.
The contents of the flux determine the cleaning ability, how corrosive it is, and whether it is water soluble.
?
If buying from an unreliable vendor, the stated specs may be incorrect
That's true anywhere, but buying from Aliexpress is especially problematic in that regard.
?
Jerry, KE7ER
?
?
On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 04:09 AM, Ed Kwik wrote:

I also recommend staying away from that Chinese solder. It is too thick. Thinner sized solder works better.

 

On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 01:23 PM, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
The exact mix of what metals determines the melting temperature, strength,?
and the temperature range between liquid and solid where it's in a mushy state.
?
A lot of these properties also depend upon the levels of various impurities being low.
?
73, Don N2VGU
?

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