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I had a rough go soldering the first six diodes at step one of the project. I ended up bridging two of the joints and had to work to separate them. It was difficult to remove the solder from between the two and I'm worried that I might have damaged the PCB. I took a few pictures from different angles, circling the diode in question. Is anyone able to tell whether I made an unfixable mistake? Thanks!
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It looks like all that you've possibly done is scrape some of the ground plane that is between those two points.
I would try cleaning it up some more with solder wick and a hotter than what you soldered with iron to suck up the solder.? You can then perform a visual inspection easier.? You will also be able to redo the solder at those points and make it cleaner.??? The risk is possible bridging those connections to the ground in the middle.
Jason
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I'm wondering if your soldering iron is hot enough and/or if your tip is too small. The ground connections on these multi-layer boards need considerable heat...
GL de va3rr
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I think the track looks ok, but does need cleaning between the the two solder points.
?
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Also, check continuity between points A, B and C to make sure that you haven't broken the pads.
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Mel, M0KMD
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Your board is ok.
?
Before proceeding with your kit, I recommend you look up "Mr SolderFix" on YouTube and watch some of his soldering tutorials.? ?They are excellent.? Soldering in those diodes shouldn't be hard, it should be fun, and can be once you learn how.
?
It appears that you may be using lead-free solder.? If so, do yourself a big favor and throw that away and get some 63/37 or 60/40 solder.? It melts at a much lower temperature and is far, far easier to work with.? And it is safe to work with for electronic kits.
?
And if you ever bridge contacts again (it happens to all of us), don't try to clear the bridge with any tool except for your soldering iron, flux, and solder wick.? It is very easy to clear bridges with these tools once you learn how.? And if you remove too much solder while clearing the bridge, it is very easy to add a bit back.
?
Stan KC7XE?
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One more note:? although I said your board is fine, as others have noted, you scratched some of the green solder-resist layer from the ground plane between the contacts.? You will need to make sure the solder on your diode pins does not touch the scratched area.? This is easily done by using solder wick to remove some of the solder (you have more than necessary), cleaning the flux away with alcohol, and reheating the joints.? The solder will naturally draw itself to the pad and wire, leaving the area between the pins clear.
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Thanks! I bought two types of wick - 0.1" (approx. 2.5mm) and 1/16" (1.5mm). I only tried the thinner one and I had a hard time getting in there even with a very thing soldering tip. I was working at approximately 364 degrees celsius. I will try again with a hotter iron. Can I use a multimeter to check whether I've bridged to ground? If so, where would I test?
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 07:25 AM, Jason wrote:
It looks like all that you've possibly done is scrape some of the ground plane that is between those two points.
I would try cleaning it up some more with solder wick and a hotter than what you soldered with iron to suck up the solder.? You can then perform a visual inspection easier.? You will also be able to redo the solder at those points and make it cleaner.???
The risk is possible bridging those connections to the ground in the middle.
?
Jason
?
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I have indeed been using a fairly narrow tip. I was having a hard time getting the solder to flow into the joint. I went out and bought some more premium solder with a different composition (63/37). The work on the right in the zoomed out picture uses the new solder. It looks better to me than my initial work on the left side, but I'm still not totally happy with it. I was working at around 360 degrees celsius, but I also tried 20 degrees higher and lower. What temperature should I be using? I have a variety of tips, including a chisel tip, but I'm afraid I'll burn the board. These pads are narrower than the ones I've previously worked on. Thank you!
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 07:32 AM, va3rr wrote:
I'm wondering if your soldering iron is hot enough and/or if your tip is too small. The ground connections on these multi-layer boards need considerable heat...
GL de va3rr
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I will clean it more and check continuity, thanks! Just to be clear, I can touch any spot on the soldered joint, right?
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 07:36 AM, Mehmet Dinch wrote:
I think the track looks ok, but does need cleaning between the the two solder points.
?
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Also, check continuity between points A, B and C to make sure that you haven't broken the pads.
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Mel, M0KMD
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I will definitely take a look at those resources. For the work on the left of the zoomed out photos, I used the 60/40 solder that came with the soldering station. I went out and bought some MG 63/37 solder and used it for the work on the right of the zoomed out photos and it was much easier. The joints on the right look better to my untrained eye, though some of them are duller than I would like. I did have fun with the second half of the diodes as well as the inductors (which I did after taking the photos). Thank you for the helpful advice!?
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 08:30 AM, Stan Dye wrote:
Your board is ok.
?
Before proceeding with your kit, I recommend you look up "Mr SolderFix" on YouTube and watch some of his soldering tutorials.? ?They are excellent.? Soldering in those diodes shouldn't be hard, it should be fun, and can be once you learn how.
?
It appears that you may be using lead-free solder.? If so, do yourself a big favor and throw that away and get some 63/37 or 60/40 solder.? It melts at a much lower temperature and is far, far easier to work with.? And it is safe to work with for electronic kits.
?
And if you ever bridge contacts again (it happens to all of us), don't try to clear the bridge with any tool except for your soldering iron, flux, and solder wick.? It is very easy to clear bridges with these tools once you learn how.? And if you remove too much solder while clearing the bridge, it is very easy to add a bit back.
?
Stan KC7XE?
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Will do. I assume that I probably didn't scratch through to the second layer of the PCB, right?
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 08:37 AM, Stan Dye wrote:
One more note:? although I said your board is fine, as others have noted, you scratched some of the green solder-resist layer from the ground plane between the contacts.? You will need to make sure the solder on your diode pins does not touch the scratched area.? This is easily done by using solder wick to remove some of the solder (you have more than necessary), cleaning the flux away with alcohol, and reheating the joints.? The solder will naturally draw itself to the pad and wire, leaving the area between the pins clear.
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370C should be fine. I use a tip that's about 1/16" wide at the chisel point. Sometimes I have to leave it on the joint a few extra seconds to get food flow.
-mike/w1mt
I have indeed been using a fairly narrow tip. I was having a hard time getting the solder to flow into the joint. I went out and bought some more premium solder with a different composition (63/37). The work on the right in the zoomed out picture uses the new solder. It looks better to me than my initial work on the left side, but I'm still not totally happy with it. I was working at around 360 degrees celsius, but I also tried 20 degrees higher and lower. What temperature should I be using? I have a variety of tips, including a chisel tip, but I'm afraid I'll burn the board. These pads are narrower than the ones I've previously worked on. Thank you!
?
On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 07:32 AM, va3rr wrote:
I'm wondering if your soldering iron is hot enough and/or if your tip is too small. The ground connections on these multi-layer boards need considerable heat...
GL de va3rr
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On Wed, Mar 19, 2025 at 09:02 AM, <avinoam83@...> wrote:
I only tried the thinner one and I had a hard time getting in there even with a very thing soldering tip
Wrong technique.? Use a wider soldering iron tip - it is OK to touch both contacts at the same time.? You are trying to remove excess solder from the contacts, which will in turn remove the bridge. Put some flux on your solder braid, lay it across both contacts, and heat it with your iron tip pressed firmly against the braid and both contacts until the braid wicks up the solder.? Then reheat the contacts, and add a tiny bit more solder if necessary.?
?
I use 350C temperature on my iron for 63/37 solder, and it is plenty.? For lead-free, you need to do it think at least 375C.? And it is not just the temperature, it is the tip.? Fine tips are wonderful for tiny fine-pitched parts wit tiny leads.? That isn't what you work with on these kits.? You need to use a heavier tip.? Most people say a medium size chisel tip is best. Others prefer the conical tips.? But the larger tips have more thermal mass: they retain their heat better, so when you touch the? board to solder, the tip doesn't immediately lose its heat.? Using a larger tip will not burn the board, it will enable you to solder better by locally heating the joint faster and more thoroughly so it properly accepts the solder.
?
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Stan seems the first to mention the magic word: FLUX.?
A drop of flux before applying the iron does magic in transferring heat and solder. has helped me immensely. Looks expensive, but likely a lifetime supply (esp at my age).
--
72 de N4REE, Bob Easton - QRP CW forever
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Thanks! I went out and bought a syringe with flux paste, but it's very hard to dispense and apply it. What you have seems a lot better.
?
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 02:31 AM, N4REE - Bob wrote:
Stan seems the first to mention the magic word: FLUX.?
A drop of flux before applying the iron does magic in transferring heat and solder. has helped me immensely. Looks expensive, but likely a lifetime supply (esp at my age).
--
72 de N4REE, Bob Easton - QRP CW forever
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I started using ChipQuik brand liquid flux for rework? and have been very happy with it.? I had been using up an older supply of Radio Shack brand solder wick and it performed better with a drop or two of the flux on the wick prior to wicking the joint.?
Ran out of the RS wick. Ordered some ChipQuik brand solder wick in their 2mm width. Found it worked great without any extra flux. Place the wick on the joint, apply a somewhat warm iron (400C) raise the spool side of the wick a bit and the solder is absorbed right off the joint. Even was able to clear through holes if I flowed a little fresh solder in just before wicking.?
Great stuff?
GREG KI4NVX?
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 1:14 PM, avinoam83 via groups.io <avinoam83@...> wrote: Thanks! I went out and bought a syringe with flux paste, but it's very hard to dispense and apply it. What you have seems a lot better.
?
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 02:31 AM, N4REE - Bob wrote:
Stan seems the first to mention the magic word: FLUX.?
A drop of flux before applying the iron does magic in transferring heat and solder. has helped me immensely. Looks expensive, but likely a lifetime supply (esp at my age).
--
72 de N4REE, Bob Easton - QRP CW forever
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I have a 50 year old tin of solder flux and dip my solder wick in it before each use. Has worked well for the past many years. ?The solder wick by itself just doesn’t pick up solder well. I think it depends on the amount of flux still present in the solder I am trying to remove. ?I originally wrote off using solder wick years ago until someone mentioned adding flux to it. Voila! Been sold on it ever since.?
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Show quoted text
On Mar 20, 2025, at 2:48?PM, Greg McCain via groups.io <gamccain50@...> wrote:
?I started using ChipQuik brand liquid flux for rework? and have been very happy with it.? I had been using up an older supply of Radio Shack brand solder wick and it performed better with a drop or two of the flux on the wick prior to wicking the joint.?
Ran out of the RS wick. Ordered some ChipQuik brand solder wick in their 2mm width. Found it worked great without any extra flux. Place the wick on the joint, apply a somewhat warm iron (400C) raise the spool side of the wick a bit and the solder is absorbed right off the joint. Even was able to clear through holes if I flowed a little fresh solder in just before wicking.?
Great stuff?
GREG KI4NVX?
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 1:14 PM, avinoam83 via groups.io <avinoam83@...> wrote: Thanks! I went out and bought a syringe with flux paste, but it's very hard to dispense and apply it. What you have seems a lot better.
?
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 02:31 AM, N4REE - Bob wrote:
Stan seems the first to mention the magic word: FLUX.?
A drop of flux before applying the iron does magic in transferring heat and solder. has helped me immensely. Looks expensive, but likely a lifetime supply (esp at my age).
--
72 de N4REE, Bob Easton - QRP CW forever
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Dave,
?I had the same issue with solder wick. I was convinced it was useless. Finally someone told me to put flux on the wick. Most of the suggestions to use solder wick never mentioned flux. I think it was assumed that EVERYONE would just KNOW you need flux.?
ASS U ME ?
--
73, Dan? NM3A
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Quality solder wick has flux in it but it needs a bit more heat than?
would be used for plain soldering.
?
However if its been laying around it does degrade and bit of
flux make it work better.
?
Me I cheat... I use the braid from scraps of Teflon wire
(RG316 and others) as its silver plated and with
flux grabs solder far better than the usual copper.
That and I have a bunch of short pieces of RG316
From projects and making cables.
?
--
Allison
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Post online only,?
direct email will go to a bit bucket.
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Interesting. Gotta try that ....
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 8:48 AM, ajparent1/kb1gmx via groups.io <kb1gmx@...> wrote: Quality solder wick has flux in it but it needs a bit more heat than?
would be used for plain soldering.
?
However if its been laying around it does degrade and bit of
flux make it work better.
?
Me I cheat... I use the braid from scraps of Teflon wire
(RG316 and others) as its silver plated and with
flux grabs solder far better than the usual copper.
That and I have a bunch of short pieces of RG316
From projects and making cables.
?
--
Allison
------------------
Post online only,?
direct email will go to a bit bucket.
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Jason
va3rr
N4REE - Bob
David Wilcox K8WPE