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DC green connector -- how does it open?

 

Sorry for this silly question, but with poor eyesight and even with magnifying glass, I cannot figure out how to power up my completed QCX!
The green DC connector has 2 screws on the top, loosening them seems to do nothing. I cannot figure out how to poke wires into the holes on the side.
Does anyone have a tip or an online link to an image or explanation of this type of connector?
 

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It's not a silly question at all. Phoenix or Phoenix like contact blocks sometimes stick. As you are turning the screw to the left (looking down from the top), watch the 1/8"- ish (about 1mm) thick block in the hole where the wire goes in, it should start moving down. If it doesn't, try to move it with a small screwdriver. The block should drop, the wire goes on top. tighten the screw, and the block compresses the wire

73
NE5U

Mike

October 30, 2017 at 8:14 AM
Sorry for this silly question, but with poor eyesight and even with magnifying glass, I cannot figure out how to power up my completed QCX!
The green DC connector has 2 screws on the top, loosening them seems to do nothing. I cannot figure out how to poke wires into the holes on the side.
Does anyone have a tip or an online link to an image or explanation of this type of connector?

 

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Hi

Just loosen the screws on top

Them poke the wires into the side. It may not feel like the wires are in, but tighten the screws on just tug on the wires very gently. If there in, you’ll feel it.

Pay attention to polarity and shorts.


Marc

On Oct 30, 2017, at 09:14, VK5EEE <vk5eee@...> wrote:

Sorry for this silly question, but with poor eyesight and even with magnifying glass, I cannot figure out how to power up my completed QCX!
The green DC connector has 2 screws on the top, loosening them seems to do nothing. I cannot figure out how to poke wires into the holes on the side.
Does anyone have a tip or an online link to an image or explanation of this type of connector?

 

HI, thanks Mike and Marc, but even with screws fully loosened, nothing gives way. The silver metal inside does not move, even when pushed down or in with a toothpick, screw driver, test lead end... both of them just won't budge! Do I have a dud one do you think?
 

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Hopefully the metal inside hasn’t been damaged.

When I inserted the wires, I just poked them in until they stopped and then tightened the screws. It’s a compression fit.

Is the block installed correctly? When I installed that part, I had to do a double take with the instructions. If I recall, there were openings on both sides.

Marc

On Oct 30, 2017, at 09:40, VK5EEE <vk5eee@...> wrote:

HI, thanks Mike and Marc, but even with screws fully loosened, nothing gives way. The silver metal inside does not move, even when pushed down or in with a toothpick, screw driver, test lead end... both of them just won't budge! Do I have a dud one do you think?

 

Oho!!!! I installed it back the front!!! It protrudes much off the board when installed correctly. You cannot poke wires in the back of it LOL
Thanks folks!
Joel Fournol
 

I have not yet the kit but the case recommended by pd7maa, if there is no place I suppose that we must replace the green connector by another style ft817 or ic202

.

Le 30/10/2017 à 14:14, VK5EEE a écrit?:
orry for this silly question, but with poor eyesight and even with magnifying glass, I cannot figure out how to power up my completed QCX!
The green DC connector has 2 screws on the top, loosening them seems to do nothing. I cannot figure out how to poke wires into the holes on the side.
Does anyone have a tip or an online link to an image or explanation of this type of connector?
N7PXY
 

From previous posts I take it that Mark is a newbie at building. There is also the possibility that when soldered onto the pcb that solder wicked up into the connector block and soldered the pieces together. In that case the connector is probably 'toast' and will have to be unsoldered and replaced.
Just one possibility.

PJH, N7PXY
 

Hi PJH. I am indeed a newbie and have been one for 50 years. HI HI.

That's why I'm glad to have this facility to get opinions from those in the know.

Thanks, Marc
N7PXY
 

Marc,

I'm probably not one that is much in the know but like you have been a newbie for a lot of years.
Love building kits and other bit and pieces. I see that you answered your own question.? That's good.
See you on the air.
73,
PJH, N7PXY
 

Hi PJH,

I was the newbie with the question, Marc and others kindly answered. I'd put the thing on the wrong way round and could not see the holes as they were hidden under the LCD display. I think you mixed us up :-)

Now looks like I got the T1 toroid wrong, will check it out tomorrow... can't receive anything but extremely strong signals. Think I'll have to rewind it all over, when I can find the right wire. Otherwise all seems good.
 

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I had a tough time with seating that T1. Winding it wasn’t bad.

Before removing T1, did you go through the alignment process?

Do you have a decent antenna?

Make sure all the T1 windings are soldered into the correct holes and that there are no bad solder joints. Count the windings.

I built the 17m version and haven’t been able to receive anything. I didn’t like the way the alignment went. But, I do receive a signal from my antenna analyzer. There is still hope.

Do all the simple checks before messing with that octopus. Remember Occam’s Razor.

Marc WB2MSC

On Oct 31, 2017, at 09:25, VK5EEE <vk5eee@...> wrote:

Hi PJH,

I was the newbie with the question, Marc and others kindly answered. I'd put the thing on the wrong way round and could not see the holes as they were hidden under the LCD display. I think you mixed us up :-)

Now looks like I got the T1 toroid wrong, will check it out tomorrow... can't receive anything but extremely strong signals. Think I'll have to rewind it all over, when I can find the right wire. Otherwise all seems good.

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