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why is the QCX menu so hard to enter?


 

after trying many time I seem to be having trouble entering the menu in the QCX, the left button works for short presses but not for long presses. I've resorted to installing the off board header pins and using a screwdriver to short the pins for a long press but even this is a challenge to enter that mode. what could be the issue other then a button replacement?

-Justin N2TOH


 

In other Arduino projects I've worked on, I've found these type buttons have lots of bounce. It may be yours isn't making a good solid connection long enough to be detected.

We also had issues getting into the menu. The button functions were mixed up such that the rotary encoder and SW3 were doing the same menu operations and SW2 was doing what the rotary encoder should have. This left no buttons covering the actual SW2 functions. I checked voltages at PIN 26 on the 328P and they all matched the manual. If I add an additional 2K ohm resistor to both SW2 and SW3, they all work correctly and I can get to the menu. I'm in the process of testing voltages all over to see if we have something else wrong.

We also have random reboot problems on saving settings, so I'm going to try replacing L5 and L6 based on other related power comments. We will see if that helps any.


 

Philip, yes I've also experienced reboots while saving. I'll check the voltages to see what the read.

-Justin N2TOH


 

ok the following measurements were just taken with a Fluke 87 meter, supply voltage set at 8.7 volts.? I'm still having trouble with the long press on the left button.

no buttons pressed,? 0.145 volts.
right button pressed, 4.54 volts.
center button pressed, 5.00 volts.
left button pressed, 3.763 volts.

-Justin N2TOH


 

I replaced L5 and L6 with 47uH inductors. It fixed my button/menu problems. The screen is much more legible now too and I haven't had any boot stalls yet either.


 

same here, I tack soldered my new inductors on the back of the board to make sure they worked before committing to them, the problem seems to be solved! the LCD back light is brighter and easier to read too! it seems the original inductors were maybe loading the power rail too much?

-Justin N2TOH


John Backo
 

The problem is with the left button. 3.7v is in the region where sometimes it
is interpreted by the mcu as a "1" and sometimes it is a "0". Check the pulldown or pullup
on that pin to make sure that a "0" is 2v or less and a "1" is about 5v, or at least 4v.
It is also possible that the soldering of that button is suspect (most likely), or that the button is bad.

It is also possible that the pin of the mcu is bad, and is not handling the voltage difference properly.
If confirmed, this might be corrected with a new firmware flash...or it might not.

john
AD5YE


 

I am having similar issues with the button on the frequency encoder.? some power ups it works fine. Other times I cannot change vfo rate as it will only move to the other menu, until I reset power once or twice. Just something small to check out. Only bug experienced.??

Curt


 

Hi Curt

Have you tried re-soldering the 100uH inductor L6, or replacing it with a 47uH inductor? Others have reported that a problem with buttons (as well as unreliable startup), is solved this way.?

73 Hans G0UPL

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 5:26 AM, wb8yyy via Groups.Io <wb8yyy@...> wrote:
I am having similar issues with the button on the frequency encoder.? some power ups it works fine. Other times I cannot change vfo rate as it will only move to the other menu, until I reset power once or twice. Just something small to check out. Only bug experienced.??

Curt



 

I measured the voltages at pin 26 on the atmega328p again after changing L5 and L6 to an inductor rated at 47uH, the only significant change seems to be the resting voltage where no buttons are pressed.

no buttons pressed,? 0.085 volts.
right button pressed, 4.54 volts.
center button pressed, 5.00 volts.
left button pressed, 3.765 volts.

-Justin

P.S. I am in the process of realigning the receiver to see if better results can be obtained, so far the pots seems to have little effect. more to come later.


 

Those voltages sounds reasonable and can be calculated by the voltage divider for the left/right buttons, they are read as analog values.
Almost sounds like you have a intermittent connection to R46, or some sporadic short to ground.
I don't know the exact window of voltages that will be parsed as key presses, but they look like spot on.
Also check pin 21 AREF and pin 20 AVCC, these should have a stable voltage on them, depending on the settings in the program (for AREF) but I'm guessing 5V on both.
If AVCC isn't 5V it could be a faulty L5.


 

Justin

I hope you find my reply under this topic. Pots having no effect is a concern.? first do note the display rescales as pots are nulled, and there is a number to indicate the level. Suffice it to say, each pot can be nulled to level zero.

If nulling is not happening, compare your receiver coil, the one with 4 windings, to the pictures. The winding direction determines proper phasing. Also you need to check that its wires are really connected to the pads. Check continuity of each winding, but don't touch the wire. Touch the soldered pad on each end away from the wire. My guess is something in this transformer could be astray.

I see that Hans gave me something to try with my minor issue.

Curt