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QMX+ reliability


 

I've been following QRP Labs since before its inception and praise the quality
of design, build and support for the kits, as well as the innovative
inspiration that brought them to market.
However, I'm looking at buying a QMX+ but I'm seeing lots of folk with issues
with the PSU modules and LPF's.
Is this just a small 'vocal' minority of builders having issues or has Hans
innovated a shade too far with the PSU's and pushed the limits of LPF
tolerances, introducing a measure of unreliability?

I think I have bought just about every kit that QRPLabs have released, in many
cases multiple examples, and really appreciate the value for money and the
support that the kits bring but I must admit my nervousness about aquiring a
QMX+.

comments? brickbats etc welcome. 73 Mike


 

On 14/01/2025 14:09, Mike via groups.io wrote:
Is this just a small 'vocal' minority of builders having issues
Mike,

Without a proper survey how can anyone tell?
On the whole do successful builders use the group much less?

Thousands get sold, I'd expect most failures, for any reason, to be reported.
Most failures seem to get sorted providing the owner persists.
There is a core of members that diagnose, some offer physical help.
What more can you ask for an advanced project?

There are no doubt simpler, easier to build kits if that's what you want.

73 Alan G4ZFQ


 

Mike,
?
I too had the same trepidation about buying the QMX+ kit because of the number of folks posting their issues. ?After looking at the posts, I realized that a great many were user caused issues related to soldering, wrong part placement. Etc. ?without knowing the total number of kits built, the number of non- builder issues is just a vocal minority. ?

although I did not post my issues with the kit build, I suspect that I am part of the majority that just didn’t solder as well as I should have. ?The built in diagnostics and post from the great and knowledgeable folks like Stan and Ludwig saved me from the embarrassment of needing to post for these common problems.
?
my advice is that if you are inclined, go ahead and get a QMX+. ?There are plenty of folks to help you get a working device if it doesn’t fire up immediately?
?
Len KJ9E


 

Hi,
?
IMHO design and instructions for all QRP-Labs is exceptional and this is also often reason for many troubles and issues you see on the forum.
?
I personally build 2 QMX and both times all was working straight off the bat. It is true that some tweaking with LPF/BPF is needed to get good results but this would happen with any kit available on the market. QMX is no different to uSDX, (tr)uSDX or mcHF in that respect.
?
In the earlier days there were issues with blown finals but this is user errors (99%) now days software has protection build in so all you need to do read manual and switch it on. Still many builders fail to do that.
?
QMX by design is portable rig, but to me it is a bit fragile electrically for that. What I mean that all needs to be connected in the right way and switched on at right sequence other wire you can blow your power supply or other parts. This is the only gripe I have. I still love these radios and repaired mine twice already but I want to use it and not have it in bits on my workbench.?
?
When I say fragile I mean pulling power plug before switch off should not be a problem, connecting equipment (PA) in wrong moment also. So as long you do not ruch (as I do) and follow procedures you will be fine.
?
---------------------------------
73 de Marek SP9TKW


 

The only issue thats in the "shadows" and not explained is dead pcm1804 IC either on first poweup/DOA or during the use. My qmx+ was in this group. After replacing the IC no issues.?
Other issues are mostly solved and related to assembly/operator/antenna errors.


 

Mike,
?
?
plus: in a big forum like this one, you mainly hear the squeaky wheels ;) And in most cases, the squeakiness is due to builders' mistakes (admittedly, modulo the few mysterious PCM1804 failures, as pointed out earlier).
?
The QMX+ is an excellent, unique rig.
?
My2Cents
?
72/73 de M0KTZ
?


 

My QMX+. Has worked FB for a year.? I use it almost every day. I feel taking your time building and doing a good job of soldering will go a long way to a positive experience. Proper coil wind and prepping their leads for solder is critical.?

Mike Krieger


On Tue, Jan 14, 2025 at 9:09?AM Mike via <mike=[email protected]> wrote:
I've been following QRP Labs since before its inception and praise the quality
of design, build and support for the kits, as well as the innovative
inspiration that brought them to market.
However, I'm looking at buying a QMX+ but I'm seeing lots of folk with issues
with the PSU modules and LPF's.
Is this just a small 'vocal' minority of builders having issues or has Hans
innovated a shade too far with the PSU's and pushed the limits of LPF
tolerances, introducing a measure of unreliability?

I think I have bought just about every kit that QRPLabs have released, in many
cases multiple examples, and really appreciate the value for money and the
support that the kits bring but I must admit my nervousness about aquiring a
QMX+.

comments? brickbats etc welcome. 73 Mike








 

To me the biggest issue is vulnerability to a badly matched antenna along with the failure mode if that happens. I have seen a fair number of people report failures owing to that sort of situation. My QMX died when the dummy load I had on it for testing opened up, probably due to a physical shock along the way. The final's transistors were fine, but the band pass selector chip died. I implemented one of the fixes to it when I repaired it, but that would not prevent the same thing happening again if I were to transmit into an open or short. I would much rather blow the transistors, which would be a much easier repair. I built mine at 12V, but run it at 9V to reduce risks a little.

The next failure mode is a vulnerability to serious damage if the power input is interrupted for a short period and is then restored. It seems to wreak havoc on the thing. I have not had that problem to date. IIRC correctly, my QMX has a 5.5/2.1mm jack. I think a 5.5/2.5 jack would be better as it would make it essentially impossible to use a power supply with the wrong plug on it which would be one way to have that sort of thing occur.

JRJ


 

I thought my perspective would be useful here. ?I’ve repaired over 300 QMX rigs to date. ?It’s a labor of love. ?There have been two major trends that have come out. ?Soldering correctly and the PCM1804 problem. ?

With soldering, I’ve noticed that cold joints, solder splashes and not scraping the coating off the toroid wires are the culprits. ?I use 60/40 or 63/37 leaded solder, extra flux, an 80 watt iron with a 1.2mm wide tip at 750F. ?Each joint (even the ground pads) take less than a second to solder. ?If the toroid wires are not scraped and the coating removed before soldering, it is much more difficult to make that easy solid solder joint. ?BYW, I also use a stereo microscope and very good lighting because these parts are small!
?
On the PCM1804, I have replaced over 100 of these. ?I personally believe that somewhere in the supply chain - bad or counterfeit parts were put into the system. ?It’s not Hans’s doing. ?He would not do that. ?But if you look up PCM1804 on the internet, you see dozens of gray market suppliers for that chip. ?It’s been around for over 20 years and is popular with a lot of companies and hobbyists. ?It’s unfortunate that happened. ?But the good news is that once replaced, they have never failed again.
?
i love these little rigs. ?They are very cleverly designed and conceived. ?If you take care and use good soldering skills, they seem to be very robust. ?

--
73
Jeff Moore
W1NC


 

Thanks for your post; it gives me an Idea.
When I finish winding and installing the hundred toroids, I think I will install panel-mounted Anderson Powerpole connectors in place of the barrel jack. This will utterly eliminate the risk of the barrel plug falling out (hasn't happened on my original QMX, but you never know). All of my gear is connectorized with ARES-standard Powerpoles anyway, so it only makes sense.?
?
Steve N1XNX


 

On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 08:28 AM, Jeffrey W Moore wrote:
I also use a stereo microscope and very good lighting because these parts are small!
I cannot work without one.? A stereo 'scope at about 8x will give you super powers; the optical "gain" in the hand-eye "servo" system actually helps to steady your hand, and you need the depth perception stereo vision affo
Good solder, flux and the right-sized iron(s) are key as well.
?
I really think that the instructions to burn off the insulation rather than scraping (I use my Knipex tool, often recommended here) are responsible for a lot of the issues and perhaps they should be changed.
73, Don N2VGU


 

Before any common on reliability we need to know the population
that is how many sold and assembled.??
?
Regarding tinning leads and especially enameled wire my solution
is if it is heat strip-able a cheap 17$ solder pot, nothing works better.
IF its is not heat strip-able I have a tool kipex is on the other is
a powered tool with abrasive wheels (custom).? For one off the
good old?Xacto knife my go to does well.
?
My prior experience with kits (and debugging production lines)
mirrors Jeffs, many of the problems are often soldering.? Consistent
quality hand soldering is a skill.? It helps to have quality tools and
materials.? By quality I do not mean expensive, only that they work
reliably ever time you use it.? My two Weller WES-51 is 30+ years
old and save for occasional tip replacement they do the job every
use.? Why two?? One has a relatively fine tip (1/16") and the other
has a heavier (3/16") tip for those hard to heat joints. You can shut
down and wait for a iron to cool and change tips but I'm impatient.?
The number 3 iron is a old Weller TCP-60 (curie temp 60W)?with
1/4" tip for things like PL259s and soldering down the?occasional
SOIC SMT parts.? ?The three soldeing iron stands are in a small
stainless tray (8x11x1") using for baking to keep things captured
and catch splashes of solder.
?
Desoldering, parts removal.? ?For that I have a hot air tool, heated tip
solder sucker, plunger style sucker, and good old solder wick.? That
list is reverse order of preference and use.? ?Newtonian solder
removal is common, I heat the joint and slap the board down on
a safe surface, the sudden deceleration works well especially
for larger joints.? Caution solder can splash and cause burns!
?
Vises and clamps, I use them but not very often for holding work.
Handy for work (board and such) that need to stay put!? ?
Panavise and their goodies have been part of my kit for many
decades.? They are inexpensive and last forever.
?
I don't use a uscope, they eat the bench space, but I have a high
magnification USB camera and many hand magnifiers.? I work
down to 0402 free hand.? ? Good magnifiers really help and can
be had cheap.??
?
LIght, good quality as in bright, diffuse to avoid reflections,
and balanced meaning acceptable color temperature .? Lighting
that's too harsh or too cold (blue) color temperature causes
eyestrain and unhelpful.? Hint, sometime warmer color temp
like 3000-3500 (warm white) will make things stand out better.
?
Workspace: for stuff on the move I use a granite tile that's about
12x12 inches as its burn proof.? For the bench I have a larger 14x24
granite tile (from home depot years ago and cheap) they are for
floors? and about but do the job well.? I keep a third 14x24" as a poor
women's surface plate for things that needs a flat surface for
mechanical alignment or measurements.? Back when I paid
maybe 20$ for all three.? They are not heavy.? ?A wood?tray
14x24" wide 1" high sides for the 12x12 tile is handy as it
has sides and loose parts "jumpers", tools, even soldering tools?
are then captured.??
?
Been building stuff for over 60 years.? Practice!
?
--
Allison
------------------
Post online only,?
direct email will go to a bit bucket.


 

Several folks have asked which tip I use. ?Then I realized that I misspoke. ?I use a 2.4mm wide chisel tip from Hakko. ?T15-D24
--
73
Jeff Moore
W1NC


 

I have built 2 QDXs, 2 QMX+? a QMX and a QCX-mini. All worked at first power up. Take your time and make sure all windings are scraped good before soldering.

73
Glenn VE9GJ


On January 14, 2025 10:09:19?a.m. AST, Mike <mike@...> wrote:
I've been following QRP Labs since before its inception and praise the quality
of design, build and support for the kits, as well as the innovative
inspiration that brought them to market.
However, I'm looking at buying a QMX+ but I'm seeing lots of folk with issues
with the PSU modules and LPF's.
Is this just a small 'vocal' minority of builders having issues or has Hans
innovated a shade too far with the PSU's and pushed the limits of LPF
tolerances, introducing a measure of unreliability?

I think I have bought just about every kit that QRPLabs have released, in many
cases multiple examples, and really appreciate the value for money and the
support that the kits bring but I must admit my nervousness about aquiring a
QMX+.

comments? brickbats etc welcome. 73 Mike
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On Wed, Jan 15, 2025 at 11:44 AM, ajparent1/kb1gmx wrote:
I don't use a uscope, they eat the bench space
My articulated arm clamps to the edge of my workbench and can cover most of it while consuming maybe 4 square inches.
Highly recommended.
73, Don N2VGU
?


 

cube1us <cube1@...> wrote:

My QMX died when the dummy load I had on it for testing opened up,
probably due to a physical shock along the way.
I killed finals in my QDX this way (fortunately only finals). I also had
some intermittent antenna connections in my QMX and all they did so far
was lighting up the S (SWR protection) indicator. Maybe I just got
lucky...

I wonder what can be done to really protect the circuit from that. Some
transil at the output (what about its capacitance)?

I implemented one of the fixes to it when I repaired it, but that would
not prevent the same thing happening again if I were to transmit into an
open or short.
What fixes exactly?

The next failure mode is a vulnerability to serious damage if the power
input is interrupted for a short period and is then restored.
This, in my opinion, is the biggest design flaw of the QMX (I don't have
QMX+, only QMX and QDX).

The buck regulator control loop goes through the MCU, there are some hacks
in the software to minimize the issues (transients) Hans wrote about
(there's an article on his website about them), but the whole concept in
my opinion is a mistake. There are dedicated chips for that, with line
regulation much better than the MCU can provide with its ADC and PWM. The
frequency of these chips can be controlled (to avoid birdies) as well.

I replaced PSU boards with linear regulators in my QMX (QMX+, as far as I
learned, doesn't have separate PSU boards, but it can be done there as
well).

I also recently had a problem with the synth chip (there's my thread about
it on the group, it manifested as frequency spikes 100 Hz apart, on every
band), I had to replace it with the genuine SI5351A.

Another flaw of the QMX (but not QMX+) is how tiny it is. I know that one
of the design goals was to fit it into the QCX case, but I feel it's more
tiny than it should be. It's very tightly packed, there are almost no
clearances on the PCB. It makes it easy to make mistakes, solder bridges,
etc., and hard to fix things if they need to be fixed.

Other than that, great entry-level radio, if someone isn't afraid of
soldering and has some skills in electronics. QDX was my first HF rig,
after years of rag-chewing on UHF it allowed me enter the world of HF. I
thought about hacking CW into it, but QMX was conceived in the meantime,
so I bought it and switched to CW (if QMX+ was available at the time, I'd
have chosen QMX+). I'm honing my CW skills and planning to buy some more
expensive, all-mode, factory-made rig (probably FT-891), but I never
regretted buying these two radios. A great value for a fairly low price.


 

Jeffrey W Moore via groups.io <jeffreymoore@...> wrote:

Several folks have asked which tip I use. ?Then I realized that I
misspoke. ?I use a 2.4mm wide chisel tip from Hakko. ?T15-D24
Isn't it too big for the SMD parts?


 

Adam
?
You’ll find the pros are mostly using what others imagine are too big bits. ? Often for smaller part joints the contact point is the corner of the bit not the full flat ?
?
The secret to good soldering that doesn’t ?fry components is speed coupled with high heat transfer. ?That means a big mass of hot bit and a good contact area. ?

My 2.4mm chisel is on a 100W weller. ?I have some small ones ?but but they are almost never needed on ‘larger stuff’ like these kits?


 

It’s not too large for SMD if you use a corner or edge. ?I use this even for soldering in new CPU chips or pcm1804 ICs. ?I drag solder with enough flux to make the solder flow well. ?The smaller tips don’t have enough mass to transfer heat well enough.
--
73
Jeff Moore
W1NC


 

Mike,
The SMPS's in both the QMX and QMX+ work just fine, abusing them, and using them as long as you follow one rule: Do not sallow the input power to go over 12 volts.
When I started building the first 4 QMX's and two QMX+'s, I was using a wall adapter that put out 12.5 volts, nominal. When transmitting into a questionable load, or using an automatic switched capacitor/inductor tuner, I found it was very easy to destroy D109, like everyone else has. Before I was intimately familiar with Hans's design, my troubleshooting led to destroyed boards because ANYTHING over 3.3 volts to most of those chips ruined them. There's no telling what that 12.5 volts was doing when I had RF in the shack.
Since then, I've found an excellent wall adapter that puts out exactly 12 volts and never varies and I also use one of those Iniu battery banks with a 12 volt trigger cable and it too puts out exactly non-wavering 12 volts.
Since then, I have tried and failed to hurt either of my rigs. The design is solid, though fragile as has been stated. It is a good design if treated accordingly.?
Also, the BS170 finals are cheap.
?
73
Frank