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I'm finally getting around to assembling my QMX Rev. 1 transceiver. Everything went splendidly right up to the T501 RWTST winding instructions. It would help very much if the photos in transformer1_00b.pdf did not flip right and left between successive photos! I think I understand how to wind it--at least with 75% confidence level, so I guess I'll risk letting the smoke out and have a go at it.

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But the real stumper is L401. The photos don't match the text (there are more windings in the photos than in the text) and the text says the last winding (#28) terminates at the "t28 hole" but the photo shows the last winding terminating at the "t28 (end)" hole. Argghh!

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I read the Rev. 2 instructions and they are perfectly clear and consistent. Can I simply follow the Rev. 2 instructions but substitute the Rev. 1's 19 turns to the tap for the Rev. 2's 15 turns to the tap and substitute the Rev. 1's 28 total turns for the Rev 2's 23 total turns?

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Again, the Rev. 2 photos are so much clearer than the Rev. 1 photos and Rev. 2 photos and they are consistent with the Rev. 2 text. Rev. 2 instructions also go into far more detail about installing the jumper and the jumper instructions are also consistent with the photos and winding instructions.

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Thanks and 73,

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Cal -- AD8Q

Its ok to followe rev2. Even for the all cores with 0.33 wire.

Number of turns from text is used for both revisions. Why would you count turns on image?

One pass thru the core is one turn, not one full turn for toroids.

Jumper install is present in revision 1 just on akward place and not marked so good as important so its easy to be missed.

I had the same questions when I did my rev 1 board a few weeks ago. I did have a post about it as well comparing the two setups.?

in my digging I read Hans reduced the count of turns when the 20m sensitivity solution was added. (Skipping first termination on Bpf) however he also states that it was unnecessary and original numbers (ones in rev1) were probably fine because he ended up squeezing all the windings together (increasing inductance). So original higher count windings were most likely fine. I wound mine with numbers in Rev1 manual and also kept them close. Ended windings is second to last hole and jumped “under the board” to the “End” terminal. My Bpf results are in the LAST pdf and are centered very nicely on the bands. YMMV but figured I’d share as I just went through it. The post was just labeled #qmx.?

What mine looks like

Bpf results are visible in pdf attached

Thanks everyone for your replies! I didn't see any replies yesterday so I just used my best judgement. Maybe I'm still on probation in this forum too so the public visibility of my original post was delayed.

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Here's where I'm at now. I wound L401 twenty-eight turns to the "t28(End)" PCB hole, went through the hole and then jumpered back to the "t28" hole on the other side of the board, as Hans described in his "52 Tips" video. As you can see, I tried to space the turns evenly:

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Now I'm up to section "2.11 Wind and install L502." It says, "For all the toroidal inductors in the QMX kit, you will get it right, if you start as shown (photo, above right) and pass the wire through the toroid from the top side down through the hole, out and then around and over again; accumulating turns in the anticlockwise direction."

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However, to my eye, the layout on this board for the upcoming inductors lacking taps favors winding them in a clockwise direction! Look at L502 in my photo above. The through hole on the OD of the toroid is where the windings documented to start. When wound anticlockwise, the second turn will be right over or at least crowding the through hole at the ID of the toroid. For the inductors requiring a large number of turns, the last turn down and through that ID hole will need to cross the first turn or two. It will also need to deviate at a greater and extreme angle in the last turn to do so too!

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On the other hand ;) , if wound clockwise, the spacing of the turns at the beginning of the winding and the end of the winding will be much more consistent and even with the middle turns and no turns will need to cross or lie next to or over/under other turns.

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Accordingly, I think I will wind these toroids in a clockwise direction. Actually, the layout of L401 could be improved and the need to stuff / cross the folded wire for the taps under the toroid to reach the through holes could be eliminated too but, given the taps, we are stuck with an anti-clockwise winding, in all practicality.

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Of course an alternative pattern for the simple wound inductors would be to start at the inside hole and wind anti-clockwise around the toroid to terminate on the OD hole, which would also be even, neat, and tidy.

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I don't know if I'm missing something here in my quest for the most tidy and evenly wound inductors but I should have mentioned in my first post that I've wound a lot of ferrite toroids and binoculars and maybe a ferrite rod or two way back in the day before radio kits even had toroids. Most recently, I assembled a tr(U)sdx kit, which I use all the time for JS8 and occasionally even SSB voice. BTW, the QMX SSB tea leaves (Hans' recent postings) motivated me to find the time to build my QMX Rev. 1 kit that's been sitting on the shelf far too long!

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Thanks so much for the photo, files and information, W0WLY. Your BPF results will come in handy when I evaluate the results of my choices and I'll look for your post too. As I mentioned, my L401 is wound very evenly and I wound to the last hole. I can still scrunch the turns together, if necessary.

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RR, Ivica, Alan. Thank you for your replies!

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I like to count turns on an image (and do other inspections and analysis of the image too) as a communications error check. what the author creates and conveys vs. what I, as the reader, interpret. That and the fact that a picture is worth 1000 words!

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If a photo or other media (video) does not perfectly match the text, I expect the content creator to inform me of the inconsistency.

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I think I'll do a practice clockwise toroid winding and see how it fits on the PCB. I'll post a photo back here. I'm also curios what other QMX builders think of the idea.

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73,

Cal (AD8Q)

On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 12:31 PM, Cal (AD8Q) wrote:

Thanks everyone for your replies! I didn't see any replies yesterday so I just used my best judgement. Maybe I'm still on probation in this forum too so the public visibility of my original post was delayed.

?

Here's where I'm at now. I wound L401 twenty-eight turns to the "t28(End)" PCB hole, went through the hole and then jumpered back to the "t28" hole on the other side of the board, as Hans described in his "52 Tips" video. As you can see, I tried to space the turns evenly:

?

?

Now I'm up to section "2.11 Wind and install L502." It says, "For all the toroidal inductors in the QMX kit, you will get it right, if you start as shown (photo, above right) and pass the wire through the toroid from the top side down through the hole, out and then around and over again; accumulating turns in the anticlockwise direction."

?

However, to my eye, the layout on this board for the upcoming inductors lacking taps favors winding them in a clockwise direction! Look at L502 in my photo above. The through hole on the OD of the toroid is where the windings documented to start. When wound anticlockwise, the second turn will be right over or at least crowding the through hole at the ID of the toroid. For the inductors requiring a large number of turns, the last turn down and through that ID hole will need to cross the first turn or two. It will also need to deviate at a greater and extreme angle in the last turn to do so too!

?

On the other hand ;) , if wound clockwise, the spacing of the turns at the beginning of the winding and the end of the winding will be much more consistent and even with the middle turns and no turns will need to cross or lie next to or over/under other turns.

?

Accordingly, I think I will wind these toroids in a clockwise direction. Actually, the layout of L401 could be improved and the need to stuff / cross the folded wire for the taps under the toroid to reach the through holes could be eliminated too but, given the taps, we are stuck with an anti-clockwise winding, in all practicality.

?

Of course an alternative pattern for the simple wound inductors would be to start at the inside hole and wind anti-clockwise around the toroid to terminate on the OD hole, which would also be even, neat, and tidy.

?

I don't know if I'm missing something here in my quest for the most tidy and evenly wound inductors but I should have mentioned in my first post that I've wound a lot of ferrite toroids and binoculars and maybe a ferrite rod or two way back in the day before radio kits even had toroids. Most recently, I assembled a tr(U)sdx kit, which I use all the time for JS8 and occasionally even SSB voice. BTW, the QMX SSB tea leaves (Hans' recent postings) motivated me to find the time to build my QMX Rev. 1 kit that's been sitting on the shelf far too long!

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On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 04:24 AM, <w0wly@...> wrote:

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I had the same questions when I did my rev 1 board a few weeks ago. I did have a post about it as well comparing the two setups.?

in my digging I read Hans reduced the count of turns when the 20m sensitivity solution was added. (Skipping first termination on Bpf) however he also states that it was unnecessary and original numbers (ones in rev1) were probably fine because he ended up squeezing all the windings together (increasing inductance). So original higher count windings were most likely fine. I wound mine with numbers in Rev1 manual and also kept them close. Ended windings is second to last hole and jumped “under the board” to the “End” terminal. My Bpf results are in the LAST pdf and are centered very nicely on the bands. YMMV but figured I’d share as I just went through it. The post was just labeled #qmx.?

Thanks so much for the photo, files and information, W0WLY. Your BPF results will come in handy when I evaluate the results of my choices and I'll look for your post too. As I mentioned, my L401 is wound very evenly and I wound to the last hole. I can still scrunch the turns together, if necessary.

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?yes you’ll be fine with that. I think the way you did it gives more flexibility at the end to tweak if needed. I got lucky.