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Pre-Assembled QMX Still Not Working!
I ordered a QMX at Dayton 2023, along with a QDX.
It took a long time to arrive since QRP-Labs took lots of orders. The QDX has been running fine, no problems. The QMX I received worked fine for 6 hours on the first trip out, then, after being left in receive mode and disconnected from the computer, it spontaneously burned up! Something on the PCB decided to fry itself. Hans arranged to send me another, and a few weeks later, it arrived. I took this second QMX out for a test and found it was *completely* deaf. Using WSJT-X the waterfall was empty. I swapped it out for the QDX and the waterfall was full of signals. I used my FT-891 to listen to some strong SSB signals, then tuned the QMX to the same frequency and same antenna, plugged in some headphones... nothing! Took it to the technician at HRO and he checked it out, and yep... deaf as a door-post! Hans arranged for a second replacement, which arrived a few weeks later. On this THIRD QMX, which arrived 10/11/23, the left dial button doesn't work reliably. In fact, it works as expected maybe once in every 30 pushes. Sometimes it doesn't register a click at all. Sometimes it registers as a single click, sometimes as a double-click, sometimes a long-click. Sometimes it simply shuts down the QMX! It's a crap-shoot what it's going to do! Changing the double-click delay setting makes no difference. The DIAL itself sometimes gives a solid click, like the right dial always does, sometimes it's mushy. Here is a OneDrive link to a video demonstrating some of the problems. In the video you can see: 1. A single press powers up the QMX. 2. A double-click (change band) does nothing. 3. A double-click (change band) does nothing. 4. A double-click (change band) shuts down the QMX. 5. A single click powers up the QMX. 6. A long-click (power off) changes the band. 7. A long-click (power off) does nothing. 8. A long-click (power off) powers off the QMX. Changing modes (short click) rarely works, but is not shown in the video. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmXkNhh8v_F5goImD0JRpPm-qM3CEg?e=qPFhkL Add to these user interface problems, the QMX's receiver is less sensitive than the QDX. You can see many more stations in the waterfall on the QDX than with the QMX when using the same power source, coax, antenna and software.. I'd updated the firmware to 1.00.014, so I figured I could still use it connected to my Windows 11 laptop and have WSJT-X (or other program) control the VFO and PTT. I was wrong! While the QDX worked fine, the QMX's PTT control refuses to operate via CAT control. In WSJT-X I tried ALL of the Kenwood CAT settings, beginning with TS-2000, TS-440S, TS-450S, all the way through TS-990S. The TS-440S settings can set the VFO frequency, but it will not get the PTT to function. WSJT-X displays an error message saying "protocol error while testing getting current VFO". The TS-440S gives a green button when "Test CAT" is pressed, but gives an error when PTT is tested. I get the same error if I choose "QRPLabs QCX/QDX" or Kenwood TS-2000S, or TS-440S, or TS-450S etc. I've tried downgrading Hamlib as far as w64-4.5.2 with identical results. I get the same results on my desktop PC running Windows 10. The other QMX radios all worked fine on both systems, just not this one! So here I am, 9 months into pre-assembed QMX ownership and still I don't have a working unit. I've sent emails to Hans about these problems on 10/11/23, 10/13/23, 10/23/23, 01/05/24, and another today (01/08/24), none of which have been answered. I want to like the QMX, but even the factory assembled units have serious issues and defects. More than that, I would really like a fully working QMX to keep in the trunk of my car as an emergency radio and a fun QRP radio for hikes etc. So I'm posting here in the hopes of getting something done about this situation. How about it, Hans? |
Hi Julian I have replied to your email; I have suggested in the first instance a factory reset so that we start from a known situation, and let's see how that goes.? My apologies also that I am fighting a very large email load and sometimes can't answer everyone immediately, I'm doing the best I can.? 73 Hans G0UPL On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 10:51?AM N3JF <n3jf@...> wrote:
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after being left in receive mode and disconnected from the computer, it spontaneously burned up!? ? |
Two things to check jump out to me.
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First, you may need to raise the left knob on the shaft. It may not be fully depressing. Loosen the set screw, raise knob (I use a credit card between the knob and the case), tighten set screw. Second, double clicking is "trickey". In the Dispay/controls menu change the Dbl. Click from 300 milliseconds to 500 milliseconds. This helps a lot with double clicks being recognized. We are all used to the Microsoft mouse double click speed and guess what? It's 500 milliseconds. See if these help... -mike/w1mt On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 3:46?AM KEN G4APB <lfoofui.nbz42@...> wrote:
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Hi Julian, only experience from my own QMX (Rev 1 / low band) just finished build successful last weekend. For this reason it's good to post to the forum and not sending hand Email's: I have experience on my first QMX I build last weekend. I followed the Hans build instructions word by word and outcome is a QMX that has very high sensitivity! It's amazing how good it is. Was thinking iit maybe better as my commercial rig! I would guess it's at least as good as my QDX (Rev2). The CW filter is so sharp that you don't receive anything in FT8, if you forget to switch to Digi-Mode. :-) The radio is so sensitive: As we not yet have AGC I run it on external speaker as it blows by ears off when tuning to a strong CW stations. To check sensitivity the output of terminal application (diagnostic) is helpful.I would recommend it even you bought a build version. My experience on the different diagnostic screens on QMX I get very similar scans (e.g. Passband) that shown in the documentation. As of your 3rd QMX and the usability, I observed myself that "long press" on QMX is (my feeling) relative short, this means by holding the button just a little bit too long it was taking it as long press and shutdown. Meanwhile I got used to it however:? For long press I press really long (1-2 Sec.) and press really short (single or double) click. No Problem any more.? In your video I see that you hold it somehow not short enough or not long enough, somehow in the middle what explain the behaviour.? ? As for the error message: I'm a CW guy, not FT8 but just for test I installed latest WSJT-X (latest table) and no additional hamlib (just what comes with WSJTX install). Selected TS-440S and both CAT Test and PTT Test work (QMX latest firmware 1.14). The error you posted looks for me you have software problem. Maybe from earlier installs WSJT-X or hamlib etc.. According to the error a byte of a message missing when trying to read VFO status. If the CAT test however works this is very unlikely a hardware issue. So far (1-2 days testing) I just had one odd observation: I used to set CW "Practice Mode" to avoid I accidently key the radio (e.g. without antenna). It's a safety precaution.? With this setting I did all checks like passband scan etc. (dummy load attached). Worked all great, but I got very strange result on the SWR scan (on dummy load!). Did all kind of checks on the SWR bridge, nothing helped. Root cause was very simple:? in CW practice mode the SWR scan does NOT work. After turning the practice mode off all scans now look great. Amazing how good the values are (compared to VNA). I understand the behavior of QMX (not to send in practice mode), but 2 suggest for improvement: 1) The Practice mode is a generic setting and maybe should be not hidden in CW-Keyer Menu? 2) If a (SWR) scan executed while practice mode on, QMX could show a message to inform the user turn off practice mode instead of? showing garbage values. BEST 73 DE DJ1TF - Thomas ?? Am Di., 9. Jan. 2024 um 08:51?Uhr schrieb N3JF <n3jf@...>:
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First, you may need to raise the left knob on the shaft. It may not be fully depressingHi Mike, The button truly is fully depressing... There is a solid click and it's not bottoming out on the case. When I first received this particular QMX, the left dial was "mushy" and mostly unresponsive. After what must have been a couple of hours of dial pushing it is no longer "mushy" (for the most part) and gives a solid click. It's just that what happens when you click it is random. Most of the time it simply does not respond to the click, but when it does, it's a random response. If the single-click doesn't work, there's no hope for a double-click! As I said in my original post, changing the double-click time makes not difference. I've set it to 300, 400, 500 and even up as far as 900. At the 900 level, even a single click lasting 0.5 second doesn't register as a click, so nothing gained there. As a test, I physically raised the left knob and no change. It's definitely a hardware problem, not a firmware problem as it occurs on every firmware. Thanks for your help. |
On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 04:02 AM, Thomas Fritzsche wrote:
Hi Thomas, The QMX doesn't respond to single-clicks 80-90% of the time. Even with the double-click setting set very high, and using a longer-than-normal single click (eg. 0.5 seconds) the QMX doesn't react to the click. It's definitely a hardware problem. 73. |
On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 12:46 AM, KEN G4APB wrote:
I wonder if you have looked at your power supply? You don¡¯t mention this ever. The above fault almost suggests excess voltage under the lightest of loads, and the non working buttons possibly psu voltage dips during implementation.??Hi Ken, I've used the QMX on several different power supplies, including a regulated desk supply at 12.8V, an SLA car battery, and a LiFEPO4 battery that sits at about 13V. These all run my QXD just fine. Thanks for your help. 73. |
Hi Mike,
I returned each of the other two QMX units to Hans. I was not told what the problem was in either case. I don't know the interior design of the QMX so I don't know if the control board is a separate unit from the rest of the PCB. My soldering skill would probably destroy the board anyway! LOL. 73. |
Replying to my original post, just to keep everyone updated....
I did a full factory reset. I downgraded the firmware to 1.00.009, which was what the QMX had on it when it arrived. I did another full factory reset. The unresponsive dial (single and double press) issue remains. Did a clean uninstall of WSJT-X. A a fresh install of WSJT-X. The CAT control issue in WSJT-X, JS8Call etc remains. 73. |
Hi Julian, had a look in QMX documentation section 8.7.4 (FW 1.014). The error on your screen in CAT command IF;. There is also discussion here:?/g/QRPLabs/message/96838 Please open the terminal (e.g. using putty) and open the CAT command test tool. please see Hans operation manual for QMX. When you open the terminal, please check the COM port is correct and same as in WSJT-X. Please execute command IF; and report the output? You should find the same string as in the error message.? Please notice that your output is similar to the one I see on my QMX, but here I have (like in manual, no <.> (Dot) in the part for RIT frequency. Double check your RIT setting on the QMX, double check no RIT should be off for FT8 and IF command should return "+0000" not "+0.00" For be it' (including all space and IF and semicolon) 38 characters, but there was discussion on if (or not the space counts). I still suspect WSJTX calling in to wrong version of hamlib. For comparison I have v2.6.1 installed on empty Win10, no other software like JS8call. Please also notice that hamlib of this of WSJTX should now come with a "QRPLabs QCX/QDX" transceiver. You should be able to select it! With this setting at least:? no Kenwood error :-) ... might be QCX/QDX error now. IF YOU don't have QRPLabs QCX/QDX transceiver for selection it indicated different WSJTX version from me, OR system loading incorrect dynamic hamlib library DLL. That you installed different version of HAMLib or software like JS8Call is an indication that you have several hamlibs on your PC. Not a Windows guy (but Linux), but these libraries can typically read dynamic libraries like hamlib in a sequence according to system configuration. So possible it reads a DLL hidden, like in %SYSTEM% or %SYSTEM32% . Might not just be bundled by the software package that you expect. You mentioned QDX and FT891? Is QDX running, while QMX is not? Have you different COM ports? Hope it helps. BEST 73 DE DJ1TF Am Di., 9. Jan. 2024 um 18:37?Uhr schrieb N3JF <n3jf@...>: Replying to my original post, just to keep everyone updated.... |
This is another update - a slightly more positive one...
As far as the software/firmware side of things is concerned... The hamlib errors seem to have been an issue with firmware updates. When I updated from 1.00.009 to 1.00.014, I went straight from one to the other. I know of no devices which require firmware updates to be performed in order, so figured this was a safe thing to do. As a test.... I downgraded the firmware to 1.00.009 (the version installed when it arrived) and when I connected the QMX to my new laptop with its fresh installation of WSJT-X, WSJT-X did not throw any errors. Same with the QDX, using the exact same settings in WSJT-X. This is exactly how it used to be... the two radios were completely interchangeable with no need to change the COM port or Audio settings as Windows saw the QDX and QMX as the same radio. Next, upgraded the firmware to version 1.00.014 by doing sequential updates - updating from 009, to 010, to 011, to 013, to 014 - with a Factory Reset between each update and after the final update. When I connected the QMX to my computer (new laptop or old desktop, doesn't matter), it was assigned COM 16. When I connected the QDX to my computer (new laptop or old desktop, doesn't matter), it was also assigned COM 16. This is what I used to see! Both the QDX and QMX were assigned the same audio device - "Digital Audio Device (QDX Transceiver)". With the QMX attached to the computer, when I ran WSJT-X and set the radio to "QRPLabs QCX/QDX" and the correct COM port (COM 16)... WSJT-X did not report any errors and the QMX functions correctly. When I swapped out the QMX for the QDX, WSJT-X continued to function correctly. So, as far as the software/firmware side of things is concerned, I think that was fixed by doing sequential updates, or at least it fixed a bad update. Now, that still leaves the hardware issue, which makes the software side irrelevant: Neither of the first two units had this issue with the dial not working, but the third unit does. It should never have passed the quality control check. The left dial simply does not work properly. In fact... NEITHER of the two dials work reliably! I don't know why I became so fixated on the left dial - probably because CAT control wasn't working and I was trying to switch bands and modes... but, I totally forgot that my initial complaint to Hans on 10/11/23, the day it arrived, was that the RIGHT dial was not responding! I sent him the following link to a video of me receiving it, unboxing it and testing it: Now that the software/firmware side is working, I just tested both dials again. The right dial has the same issue... it doesn't respond to clicks. So while I can now use the computer to change bands (it does not change modes from CW to DIGI) and operate, I cannot reliably use either of the dials to change modes, bands, or any other function that requires clicking either of the dials. My next test is to see how sensitive the QMX is compared to the QDX. I remember that the the FT8 waterfall was full of FT8 signals when using the QDX, and much less so when I switched to the QMX.? In fact, in my initial testing after I received the QMX on 10/11/23, I sent an email to Hans on 10/23/23 saying: "I used my QDX and the waterfall was full of signals. I disconnected the antenna and switched it over to the QMX, made sure it was tuned to 14.074MHz. Same antenna, coax, power cord, power supply, same computer... All I saw were the strongest signals on the band. I switched everything back to the QDX, and the waterfall was full of signals again. I used the QDX for the remainder of the day."
Maybe firmware version 1.00.014 has fixed my QMX sensitivity issue? Guess I'll find out soon enough! 73 |
?Hi Julian, first of all good to hear you could solve your software problem. Now to the hardware. I looked at your Video and first some warning (also others might seeing the video): I see you have a Low Band version of the Kit (nice certificate :-) ). First:? I don't know for sure, but your battery looks like a 12v LIFEPO4 battery.? This kind of batteries have even nominal 12V BUT after charging will have more like 14.4V. There the documentation and several discussions in this group clearly warn that QMX must NOT run over 12V.? People reported to have success with 3S Li-Ino, but this just has 12.6V after charging. Others have used series of 2-3 diode's to drop voltage. If this is LiFePo4 you have presented over voltage.? Second:? You connected a telescope whip antenna to the radio. This antenna has not the dimensions it could be resonant on any of the bands. If you transmit into such a mismatch antenna high current will reflect back and can / will destroy the final amplifier. Hans just implemented a high SWR protection, but this is brand new feature only in new release AND there is no 100% protection. Best practice for such initial testing of any new radio should be using a 50 ohm dummy load (or at least a resonant antenna. Beside such kind of Antenna you will risk to blow your finals, for sure the reception is not good. After this two warnings to the question of the button. The best way to test these is the diagnostic screen on the terminal mode. You find this in chapter 8.6.5 of the 1_00_014 operational manual. Most of the video the screen is not visible. The operational mode switch to Digi is not on the right but on the left side and I can see (and hear) you managed to activate Digi mode on 40m.? When you test the button it can be observed that multiple times you actually triggered the "long press" action as you holding the button too long down (as mentioned in previous post). If you operating Digital (assume as you struggle with push button) the right encoder is very unlikely be used: it controls tuning an message etc. something you would use CAT control. IF we anyways like to check for the right encoder button: as mentioned by others earlier. You can unscrew the know that is just fixed with a small screw (don't loos it!). It might be e.g., too close to case, that can easy happen during transport? You can also test by operating the shaft (turning / press) of the encoder complete without button. When you remount the button into position do not forget the gap needed (1-2mm). The little screw should be on the flat side of the shaft. My experience it that I need to screw it relative hard to have the button stable fixed, but make sure you don't break it :-) Can just judge remote on your buttons (encoder), but what I see (and hear) in video looks (sounds) ok to me. BEST 73 DE DJ1TF - Thomas ?? Am Mi., 10. Jan. 2024 um 19:57?Uhr schrieb N3JF <n3jf@...>: This is another update - a slightly more positive one... |
Hi Thomas,
I appreciate you trying to help: First: I don't know for sure, but your battery looks like a 12v LIFEPO4 battery. This kind of batteries have even nominal 12V BUT after charging will have more like 14.4V. There the documentation and several discussions in this group clearly warn that QMX must NOT run over 12V. People reported to have success with 3S Li-Ino, but this just has 12.6V after charging. Others have used series of 2-3 diode's to drop voltage. If this is LiFePo4 you have presented over voltage.The QMX was tested on a LiFePO4 battery, a 12V regulated power supply, and a SLA car battery (12.8V). 12.8V is the standard "12V" supply. The QMX functions identically on each power source. Second: You connected a telescope whip antenna to the radio. This antenna has not the dimensions it could be resonant on any of the bands.If you transmit into such a mismatch antenna high current will reflect back and can / will destroy the final amplifier. Hans just implemented a high SWR protection, but this is brand new feature only in new release AND there is no 100% protection. Best practice for such initial testing of any new radio should be using a 50 ohm dummy load (or at least a resonant antenna.Beside such kind of Antenna you will risk to blow your finals, for sure the reception is not good.The telescoping antenna was used for RECEIVE only. All transmit tests were made on a resonant antenna, tuned for the frequency being tested. I have no antenna at my house due to a ridiculous property management company that demanded I take my antenna down after it was approved 16 years ago. Consequently, I can use the telescoping antenna to see if the QMX is receiving any signals at all by listening through the headphones. To quote from the email to Hans that went along with that video: "The frequency dial seems to be extremely intermittent. Sometimes there's a positive click and it moves the cursor. Sometimes there's a positive click and it does not move the cursor. Most of the time there is no positive click, and when there's no positive click it either does or does not move the cursor!
I have not yet transmitted with the QMX, or attached it to a real antenna (just the 17-inch long telescoping whip)."
This video was made to show the unboxing and initial test of the main functions of the QMX. Transmit tests did not happen until later that same evening... on a resonant antenna! After this two warnings to the question of the button.The best way to test these is the diagnostic screen on the terminal mode. You find this in chapter 8.6.5 of the 1_00_014 operational manual.Most of the video the screen is not visible.This was a fully assembled and tested QMX direct from QRP-Labs. The two dials do not work, even when the settings are adjusted. A single-click produces a random result. That is unacceptable and should not happen on a production radio. I'm sure the methods you refer to will help diagnose the problem, but they will not help me fix it, as I'm not going to take it apart and solder the insides or fix the firmware. That's why I purchased a fully assembled unit. The operational mode switch to Digi is not on the right but on the left side and I can see (and hear) you managed to activate Digi mode on 40m.I am aware of this. You understand you are watching two different videos describing two different (but related) problems? As I said in an earlier post: "In fact... NEITHER of the two dials work reliably! I don't know why I became so fixated on the left dial - probably because CAT control wasn't working and I was trying to switch bands and modes... but, I totally forgot that my initial complaint to Hans on 10/11/23, the day it arrived, was that the RIGHT dial was not responding! I sent him the following link to a video of me receiving it, unboxing it and testing it"
That is the video you have just watched.When you test the button it can be observed that multiple times you actually triggered the "long press" action as you holding the button too long down (as mentioned in previous post).It does not respond correctly to long presses, or short presses, or double-presses. The video you watched was me trying all three variations. You should also be able to hear that several times, the dial did not click when pushed. If you operating Digital (assume as you struggle with push button) the right encoder is very unlikely be used: it controls tuning an message etc. something you would use CAT control.I understand that the frequency dial is seldom used on digital modes. However, the QMX is supposed to get an SSB upgrade sometime in the future, in which case it *will* be used. Do you buy a TV set that works in every way, except for changing channels? I don't! LOL. That said, remember the LEFT dial also doesn't work reliably. So switching modes, which is NOT done by the CAT control, is also very difficult. IF we anyways like to check for the right encoder button: as mentioned by others earlier. You can unscrew the know that is just fixed with a small screw (don't loos it!). It might be e.g., too close to case, that can easy happen during transport? You can also test by operating the shaft (turning / press) of the encoder complete without button. When you remount the button into position do not forget the gap needed (1-2mm). The little screw should be on the flat side of the shaft. My experience it that I need to screw it relative hard to have the button stable fixed, but make sure you don't break it :-)It is not the position of the button on the shaft. I've tested that that already, as stated in an earlier post. Can just judge remote on your buttons (encoder), but what I see (and hear) in video looks (sounds) ok to me.Take another look and listen to the video to all the failed RIGHT button presses from 3:18 to 3:35... then listen to the LEFT dial press. Surely you hear the difference? Not only does the RIGHT dial not click positively, but it doesn't operate the function associated with the button press. The LEFT mouse button clicks positively as is clearly heard on the video. At 3:45 in the video, I pick up the QMX and you can hear the difference between a soft, "mushy" button push, and a positive "click", and at 3:55 you can clearly see and hear that the button is not working at all (no positive click, no "mushy" click). At 4 minutes into the video, I just start smashing the button, trying to get it to operate at all. The LEFT button always gives a positive click. It just doesn't do what it's supposed to do - change modes or bands. It does, however, turn the QMX off (unexpectedly) and on. Side-by-side comparisons between this QMX and the QDX, both of which are fully assembled units from QRP-Labs, demonstrate there are other issues with this QMX unit and which further show that it is not working as it should. I have outlined them to Hans in email and have requested a return for a refund. The QDX is a fantastic radio and just works. |
Hi All, there is all said in my past post (or Hans Documentation). As last reply on this subject a summary. Battery: make sure you NOT run QMX over the specified voltage (here 12v) or you risk to blow it up. The batteries by N3JF are certainly specified over 12v fully charged and not advisable.? Understand that QMX has a new designed (genius) power distribution (buck converter). However if over voltage worked on other QMX product (QDX) they might not work here. For initial power up of QMX Hans documented that if available a lower voltage like 7 volt and current limit of like 200 mA (for receive test) is advised.? I personally (just for safety) also did transmit tests on 7-9V (you need to increase current limit)? before testing it on 12V.? In the spirit of QRP I find it fun to reduce my power whenever possible :-) Antenna: Have always good 50 Ohm match :-)! As best practice (safety) and to protect from dust I personally even use a 50Ohm termination plug when the Rig is turned off and stored: Even on non receive and non transmitting I have good match (antenna or where possible dummy load) and as 2nd layer of defense I activate the practice mode. It's too easy to accidentally / unintentionally start transmitting e.g. hit the morse key. The antenna used by N3JF is for sure a horrible mismatch and not advisable: bad receive and no protection on transmit.? Buttons: Advice to adjust the button given. On my QMX I have no problem with the encoder button. As described it just took 30 seconds practice to get used to reliable produce double and long press. QMX can certainly operated on digital with close to no button interaction. If you are only digital the QDX might be the better choice. For me as CW guy the QMX is a dream come true.? BEST 73 DE DJ1TF - Thomas Am Do., 11. Jan. 2024 um 01:24?Uhr schrieb N3JF <n3jf@...>: Hi Thomas, |
Nice of you to blame the operator for a faulty product, Thomas!
As has been said several times in this thread: Battery: The QMX was tested on several different power sources, including regulated 12V desktop power supplies, 12V car batteries, and LiFEPO4 batteries. The results were identical in all cases. The problems with the dials not working correctly is not due to the power supply or voltage thereof. Antenna: As no transmission was ever made on a non-resonant antenna, Thomas' statement, "The antenna used by N3JF is for sure a horrible mismatch and not advisable: bad receive and no protection on transmit" is disingenuous at best. The telescoping antenna worked perfectly for a quick receiver test with a brand new, just out of the box QMX -- checking for loud FT8 signals. Regardless of how "horrible" the mismatch was, for receiving, it fit the task perfectly. For transmitting, a resonant antenna is a? must, and in all transmitting tests, that's exactly what was used. Buttons: On a pre-assembled QMX, one that supposedly passed a quality control check, the obvious malfunctioning of the two major control dials should have been obvious and either fixed at the factory, or the unit should not have passed the quality control check It is clear that this QMX was only ever checked by hooking it up to a computer, not by using the physical controls on the radio. Neither of the two previous QMX radios suffered from this problem, and BOTH were tested in exactly the same way (on different power sources, as described above, adjustment of settings for double-click delay). Additionally, the height of the dials on their shafts were tested and adjusted, and none of it made any difference. The dials on this QMX simply do not work reliably 80%, or more, of the time for single-click, double-clicks, or long-clicks, regardless of settings, button heights on the shaft, or power source used. Thomas' final statement, "QMX can certainly operated on digital with close to no button interaction" would be correct if, there were no other problems with this particular QMX, but, unfortunately, there are other problems with this particular QMX (as Hans has been made aware of in email). And that's what this thread is about. The QMX that I have in my possession -- not about the QMX in general, though receiving three defective QMX radios in a row, each with different defects, is pretty bad. Thomas' statement fails because this QMX radio could not be used on digital modes. This QMX radio should be able to be used on both digital and non-digital modes, like CW, like all other QMX radios should. But this QMX radio cannot because of the dial problems. I will agree with Thomas when he says, "If you are only digital the QDX might be the better choice." |
Hi Julian My apologies, I have been very busy the last couple of days; I have your email requesting a refund and I will handle that, no problem.? It does appear likely from your descriptions that you have a fault around the encoder or controls board. I assure you that the controls and controls board ARE included as part of the test procedure for an assembled radio. Unfortunately it is never possible to guarantee that there's no intermittent connection which eludes testing, nor that there is no knock etc during transit.? I am at a loss to explain?the other issues that you mentioned, regarding computer control of the radio. The symptoms you described are in some aspects categorically impossible for the firmware to produce. If you have USB access to be able to update firmware, then you also have USB access to Audio and Virtual COM serial; it indicates that there is no possible hardware fault in the QMX. If there was a firmware fault regarding Audio or CAT, then others would already have reported it too (particularly in such a serious issue as no CAT control capability at all). It is absolutely NOT necessary, when upgrading firmware, to do so one version at a time. There cannot be any difference in doing one version at a time, or in doing a jump from say 009 to 014. It's again categorically impossible for the firmware to produce any such difference. A factory reset *should not* be needed, but as there have been some changes to the use of some memory locations, at this early stage in the product firmware there could be some error in defaulted values so on certain firmware upgrades, a factory reset was prudent. You stated that doing sequential firmware updates resolved some issues (USB CAT control) but again, this just cannot happen; I do not doubt you, when you relate the occurences; I can only say that it must be coincidental, some unrelated PC confusion must have been resolved coincidentally with the firmware updates.? I can only conclude that you had configuration issues on your PC, though you mentioned you already have a perfectly functioning QDX and you clearly know how to operate it competently, so even this is not a very satisfactory explanation.? Many mysteries...? Anyway I'm sorry to hear of all the trouble, which should never occur on an assembled unit.? 73 Hans G0UPL On Wed, Jan 10, 2024, 9:57?PM N3JF <n3jf@...> wrote: This is another update - a slightly more positive one... |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýCan I suggest the unit be sent to someone like Jeff Moore or JZ or one of those types to see if the issues can be isolated circuit wise to give some light on the subject?73, Cliff, AE5ZA
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