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#QMX Tweeking QMX output power #qmx


 

I'm getting a little over 4 watts into a dummy load on 80m and 60m. All other bands are 3.0w-3.5w. I would like to get all bands >=4.0 watts.? I've tried compressing and expanding all the low-pass filter torroids. Its difficult to get much movement out of the turns, and hardly any change in output power. For one thing, I guess I wind my torroids fairly tightly, and for another all the LPF torroids are squeezed onto the board such they all touch one or more other components and I can't get some turns moving around the contact with those components.

I probably should be happy with what I've got, but are there other tweeks I should be trying? If anyone has gotten higher output by tweeking the LPFs, let me know which ones and whether you compressed or expanded. Or if you added or removed turns.

73,
Randy, KS4L


 

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I ended up adding a turn to the L513 toroid for 20-30M. Gave me an extra watt. Squeezing the turns helps some so figured adding the turn was going the right way. It may not always work that way depending on circuit values.

73,
Cliff, AE5ZA



On Aug 23, 2023, at 13:09, Randy <wrmoore47@...> wrote:

I'm getting a little over 4 watts into a dummy load on 80m and 60m. All other bands are 3.0w-3.5w. I would like to get all bands >=4.0 watts.? I've tried compressing and expanding all the low-pass filter torroids. Its difficult to get much movement out of the turns, and hardly any change in output power. For one thing, I guess I wind my torroids fairly tightly, and for another all the LPF torroids are squeezed onto the board such they all touch one or more other components and I can't get some turns moving around the contact with those components.

I probably should be happy with what I've got, but are there other tweeks I should be trying? If anyone has gotten higher output by tweeking the LPFs, let me know which ones and whether you compressed or expanded. Or if you added or removed turns.

73,
Randy, KS4L


 

Why? Nobody will know the difference, you are chasing unicorns, leave it as it is and use it.


On Wed, 23 Aug 2023, 19:18 Cliff, <ae5zaham@...> wrote:
I ended up adding a turn to the L513 toroid for 20-30M. Gave me an extra watt. Squeezing the turns helps some so figured adding the turn was going the right way. It may not always work that way depending on circuit values.

73,
Cliff, AE5ZA



On Aug 23, 2023, at 13:09, Randy <wrmoore47@...> wrote:

I'm getting a little over 4 watts into a dummy load on 80m and 60m. All other bands are 3.0w-3.5w. I would like to get all bands >=4.0 watts.? I've tried compressing and expanding all the low-pass filter torroids. Its difficult to get much movement out of the turns, and hardly any change in output power. For one thing, I guess I wind my torroids fairly tightly, and for another all the LPF torroids are squeezed onto the board such they all touch one or more other components and I can't get some turns moving around the contact with those components.

I probably should be happy with what I've got, but are there other tweeks I should be trying? If anyone has gotten higher output by tweeking the LPFs, let me know which ones and whether you compressed or expanded. Or if you added or removed turns.

73,
Randy, KS4L


 

If you review the as designed turns and inductance and compare with
measured or even calculated inductance, you'll see why L513 turns need
to be tight together or add one turn and spread them. I mod L513 on my
builds and leave the rest of the LPF inductors alone (evenly spread).
To each his own.

-mike/w1mt

On Thu, Aug 24, 2023 at 7:50?AM howard winwood G4GPF <winwoodh@...> wrote:

Why? Nobody will know the difference, you are chasing unicorns, leave it as it is and use it.

On Wed, 23 Aug 2023, 19:18 Cliff, <ae5zaham@...> wrote:

I ended up adding a turn to the L513 toroid for 20-30M. Gave me an extra watt. Squeezing the turns helps some so figured adding the turn was going the right way. It may not always work that way depending on circuit values.

73,
Cliff, AE5ZA



On Aug 23, 2023, at 13:09, Randy <wrmoore47@...> wrote:

I'm getting a little over 4 watts into a dummy load on 80m and 60m. All other bands are 3.0w-3.5w. I would like to get all bands >=4.0 watts. I've tried compressing and expanding all the low-pass filter torroids. Its difficult to get much movement out of the turns, and hardly any change in output power. For one thing, I guess I wind my torroids fairly tightly, and for another all the LPF torroids are squeezed onto the board such they all touch one or more other components and I can't get some turns moving around the contact with those components.

I probably should be happy with what I've got, but are there other tweeks I should be trying? If anyone has gotten higher output by tweeking the LPFs, let me know which ones and whether you compressed or expanded. Or if you added or removed turns.

73,
Randy, KS4L


 

Hi Group,

I just finished my QMX build, Perfectly functional right out of the gate, pretty happy.?

While very densely packed and easy to screw something up, I gotta say BRAVO Hans!? What a fabulous kit!

To Mike, W1MT,

Anyway, I used 11T on L513 during the build after reading this thread.? The problem I am having is that on 20m, I am getting over 7W.? The rest of the bands are all right around 5W.? I'm thinking I should take the extra turn off L513 and go with 10T.? Thoughts?

Off to do the R306 mod for LCD brightness too high.? Any other mods you recommend Mike?

Thanks and 73,

Robert, WA2T


 

What is your input voltage? 9v? How are you measuring power out?

Yes I would go back to 10T on L513. I haven't built a 9v unit and I
suspect yours is 9v. Likely, the L513 tweaking is probably only for
the 12v version.

I put kapton tape in several places to prevent shorting. Most
importantly on the power jack and left encoder. Also, on the exposed
pins for the power modules. That's about it.

Enjoy the rig!

-mike/w1mt


 

Hi Mike,

Nope, I built for 12V.? Changed L513 back to 10T and squeezed turns.? Played with L512 to optimize 40m (and 60m).? Now have right around 6W on all bands with 13.8V PS.

120 ohms looks good for display brightness.? I only had 0805, the 33 ohm is a 1206, but the 120 ohm 0805 does not get warm or hot so think it is fine.

I'll say it again, what a fabulous rig!

Thanks and 73,

Robert, WA2T


 

Ahhhh, 13.8v. That explains it. I target 4w at 12.0v when building
(matches the graph in the manual). Hans has warned against running
more than 12v on page 4 of the manual -"Do not power a QMX with a
higher voltage than you built it for."
Anything more than that risks the finals, especially when using an
automatic tuner. I personally use a 3s Li-Ion battery and when fresh
it's 12.6v and I'm a little nervous. So far so good.


I use 0603 for the limiting resistor cause that's what I have. No
problems with heating.

Enjoy!

-mike/w1mt

On Fri, Aug 25, 2023 at 1:43?PM <rentwist@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

Nope, I built for 12V. Changed L513 back to 10T and squeezed turns. Played with L512 to optimize 40m (and 60m). Now have right around 6W on all bands with 13.8V PS.

120 ohms looks good for display brightness. I only had 0805, the 33 ohm is a 1206, but the 120 ohm 0805 does not get warm or hot so think it is fine.

I'll say it again, what a fabulous rig!

Thanks and 73,

Robert, WA2T


 

Why would 5W at exactly 9V, for the 9V version be ok, but 5W at exactly 13V, for the 12V version, be dangerous? FWIW, I’ve ran my QMX off a LiFePO4, transmitting with as high as 13.8V, but mostly in the 13.2-13.3V range, with no problems. But to be fair, I’m using a manual tuner. ?But again, it borderline feels like what I’m reading, on a near daily basis, is running more than 4W at 12V is a sin.?


 

I think it's just a matter of being cautious.

I use an Elecraft T1 to tune but use a tuning indicator (TI) that
ensures no more that 2:1 swr is presented to the rig. I have forgotten
to put the TI in tune mode more than once. All it takes is 1 bad
mismatch and maybe I kiss my finals goodbye. I'd rather not replace
them if I can avoid it. Since Hans puts it in big bold red letters to
not go over 12.0v I'm gonna listen... maybe necessary, maybe not...

Until I'm fully comfortable that these rigs are indeed robust, I'm
erring on the side of caution.

-mike/w1mt

On Fri, Aug 25, 2023 at 2:52?PM Rick NF6G <rdante@...> wrote:

Why would 5W at exactly 9V, for the 9V version be ok, but 5W at exactly 13V, for the 12V version, be dangerous? FWIW, I’ve ran my QMX off a LiFePO4, transmitting with as high as 13.8V, but mostly in the 13.2-13.3V range, with no problems. But to be fair, I’m using a manual tuner. But again, it borderline feels like what I’m reading, on a near daily basis, is running more than 4W at 12V is a sin.


 

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Because 12V is greater than 9V?

The 12V version has a different turns ratio on the output transformer.? So while the voltages on the output side are the same the voltages on the driver stage are higher.? This also applies to reflected power, it comes back through the LPF and the output transformer to become a higher voltage on the driver side.? AIUI higher voltages are bad.

Chris, G5CTH

On 25/08/2023 19:52, Rick NF6G wrote:

Why would 5W at exactly 9V, for the 9V version be ok, but 5W at exactly 13V, for the 12V version, be dangerous? FWIW, I’ve ran my QMX off a LiFePO4, transmitting with as high as 13.8V, but mostly in the 13.2-13.3V range, with no problems. But to be fair, I’m using a manual tuner. ?But again, it borderline feels like what I’m reading, on a near daily basis, is running more than 4W at 12V is a sin.?



 

4 watts vs 3 watts is 1.25 db. IMO there are bigger fish to fry.

I intend to run off a car battery inverter so I took some extra steps to ensure thermal performance at 13.8 vs. 12. I put thermal paste between the bss170s and the ground plane, and a thermal pad on top to try and conduct more heat into the washer holding them down. Maybe at some point ill replace the washer with an aluminum bracket that attaches to the inside of the enclosure to conduct the heat out that way.

We'll see how it works when I figure out what I blew up in it...


 

On 25 Aug 2023 at 12:49, Stephan Ahonen KE0WVA wrote:

I intend to run off a car battery
inverter so I took some extra steps to
ensure thermal performance at 13.8
vs. 12. I put thermal paste between
the bss170s and the ground plane,
and a thermal pad on top to try and
conduct more heat into the washer
holding them down. Maybe at some point
ill replace the washer with an
aluminum bracket that attaches to the
inside of the enclosure to conduct
the heat out that way.
why don't you just use one of the several
BUCK converters that have been suggested
on here over and over?

That would GUARANTEE 12.0vdc into the
rig no matter what your auto generator /
regulator puts out (I've seen my car go up
to over 14v while running).

w2jc