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Re: British electrical plugs
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGreat one.? Just don't show it to my XYL. She has enough ideas on her own 73 Phil WA8YAN Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Twolane <georgerandolph@...> Date: 10/30/21 12:19 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] British electrical plugs On Oct 30, 2021, at 11:17 AM, Trystan G0KAY <trystandavies+nodirect@...> wrote:
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Re: Programming the Atmega238P
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi John, and all others answering my plea ! The script I have is for a morse keyer.? I am building the keyer that KL0K Thomas up in Alaska has provided the PCB for.? He is willing to program a 32P for me, but I thought I had a local ham who was knowledgeable and equipped to do it with me.... but then found out he didn't have his own hardware for the job, sooooo..... I decided to call it a learning experience and perhaps a great fall/winter project.? Thus I show up here seeking guidance to get started, first to get my chip programmed with the minimum necessary hardware and software and then to give me a push down the road to creating my own projects.? Maybe even pick up one of the books full of ham projects to try. I'm pretty sure you can teach this old dog a few new tricks.? However, that is still to be proven.... HI HI. 73 Phil WA8YAN Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "john.rogers via groups.io" <john.rogers@...> Date: 10/30/21 4:20 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Programming the Atmega238P Phil, If your script is a .hex file, see Hans' suggestions here: |
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Re: Programming the Atmega238P
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJust to clarify, for my immediate project, yes I do simply wish to get an Atmega chip programmed to make the script I have work.? I assume the Script has to be compiled then the results uploaded to the Atmega32P. At that point I'm hoping I can put the chip in the project and be ready to run.?? Beyond that however, I am hoping to begin building my knowledge of these chips and their programming for other applications.? In the 1970's I was teaching Basic at the local junior college and in the 80's was also teaching dBase III and relational data base programming so learning C is doable.? I just gotta get the hardware down and the support software. At the present time I have several responses from folks here that i am digesting and trying to figure out where to go next.? I can't do this in one quick read though, so please have patience with me as i study what each of you have been so kind to share with me.? I appreciate all of you taking the time to help me.? As I get a grasp on the content of your responses I will be back most likely with more beginner questions.? For now.... reading and researching and cross referencing, etc. etc. Until I get it. 73 Phil WA8YAN Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "jjpurdum via groups.io" <jjpurdum@...> Date: 10/30/21 11:59 AM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Programming the Atmega238P I didn't understand that the OP wanted to just program the chip. I agree that the Uno would be a good choice for that, and there's lots of info on the web for doing it. The ESP32 family make me a bit nervous, mainly because of the huge variations in the boards being sold. Some have 32 pins, other 38, and a few others in between. Some of the ESP32 pins really shouldn't be used in most cases (i.e., those dedicated to external memory), while others do some weird things, especially on boot. On the plus side, it is very easy to add WiFi capability and that is often worth the hassles, plus is has a pretty deep memory pool and a reasonably fast clock. Still, for the rank beginner, I think the Uno/Nano makes more sense. Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, October 30, 2021, 11:48:10 AM EDT, Wayde Nie via groups.io <wayde@...> wrote:
I like the nano a lot too. Its lower cost and smaller size makes it very project embeddable (you could sprinkle them into everything ;-) ). If the project itself doesn't need USB, I actually like the promini, myself... I have a few USB to serial cables for programing time, but now we're layering on extras again ;-) I may have read too much into the original question, but it sounded like their end goal was a standalone programmed 328p chip. For that use case, and for starters into the world of Arduino, I still like the socketed uno with the 328p in the dip package.? It's basically the original/basic Arduino experience with lots of Internet support (that can be good or bad!). The uno can wired up directly on its socket pin headers, or breadboard(or both!), and is compatible with a bunch of different 'hats' ( expansion modules/boards ) if you wanted to explore that part of the Arduino landscape. Once comfortable with the basics, there's no shortage of directions you can go from there... I actually really like the esp8266's and esp32's. Not Arduino or atmel, but really shares a lot of overlap... You can even use and program within the same Arduino environment and scripts in most cases, if you want/need. For this you get wifi and Bluetooth. But I'm getting ahead of myself again! My next direction I want to get into are all the LoRa WAN boards! Looks like a lot of fun! No matter what direction you go, there's no shortage of options, most importantly - enjoy! Wayde Nie VA3NCA 73 -------- Original message -------- From: "jjpurdum via groups.io" <jjpurdum@...> Date: 2021-10-30 09:08 (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] Programming the Atmega238P I agree with Wayde that the Arduino 328P is a good place to start, but I would suggest the Nano over the Uno. The Uno does allow a lot of modules to be plugged into it, but the Nano has a much smaller footprint. Indeed, if you read current articles on using an Arduino, most use the Nano. Also, the Nano costs less. You can buy 3 Nano's for about $15 on Amazon. Do NOT buy the Nano Pro Mini. It's cheaper than an ordinary Nano, but it does not have the USB connector on it, which makes it less convenient to program. Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, October 30, 2021, 01:30:24 AM EDT, Wayde Nie via groups.io <wayde@...> wrote:
The best thing about the atmel microcontrollers is that there's so many ways to work with them! The worst thing about the atmel microcontrollers is that there's so many ways to work with them!!! :-) Where to start? The easiest way ,I think, might be to get an Arduino uno or clone uno board with the socketed Atmega238P chip. You can program it and debug with the Arduino IDE and use it as is, or pop the chip out and use it bare in your other circuits. (some modes need a crystal, but stick to the internal resonator modes to start, just to make it easier) If you get additional 328p's for the board you might want to start with chips with the Arduino bootloader already on them as they are a drop in replacement on an Uno with a socket. (Some sellers are better than others at reliably indicating if they preload the bootloader, depending on the source...) But... Buy 2 Arduino uno boards, and one can be loaded with an in circuit serial programing (ICSP) program (an example script distributed with the Arduino IDE) and use it to program bare atmega chips, either with the bootloader (making them useable to load your scripts from within the ide), or your just loading your own scripts directly... (The bootloader code is bundled in with the ide) There are dedicated ICSP programmers too, but a lot of them amongst hobby community are themselves just atmega based boards... Another uno board works just as well imo, and can do double duty as another Arduino dev board... There's a series of YouTube videos from a channel called "wifi sheep" where he's making an atmega tiny basic computer, but in the series he modifies an Arduino Uno socketed board with a zif socket so he can swap chips easier as he programs them. Along the way he outlines a decent foundational method of getting started with these chips that you could build on from there... Ymmv , of course :-) Good luck! They really are a lot of fun! Wayde Nie VA3NCA 73 -------- Original message -------- From: "wa8yan.radio via groups.io" <wa8yan.radio@...> Date: 2021-10-30 00:44 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [QRPLabs] Programming the Atmega238P Can one of you who do this all the time advise me what minimal hardware and software is needed to do simple programming of the Atmega chip.? I already have the script I want to put in it, my main interest is just to familiarize myself with the basics with a small project and to get a useable chip out of it. Perhaps a reference to a good beginning (very beginning) tutorial.? Everything I've seen so far assumes way to much about what I already know.? They begin with acronyms and processes that are meaningless to me. Little wonder I haven't learned much yet.? There has to be someone who can teach someone like me who hasn't kept up with the pace of progress, but have a foundation in the rudiments. 73 Phil WA8YAN Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone |
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QDX power supply
I received notice this morning that my QDX (order 50032) had shipped from the US lot. On rereading the doc I was struck by the repeated mention of 12 volts, not only for the RF amp, but also for the delicate AMS117 voltage regulator. Like most hams my "12 volt" shack supply is at 13.8 volts and not easily adjustable.? If I wind T1 to 3:2 is it safe to use a standard power supply at 13.8 volts?
-- ? 73 ??? KD8CGH |
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Re: removing SM ICs
Hans, if you don't have one, pick up a Chinese hot air station.? They are dirt cheap.? Useful for all sorts of things from actual hot air solder rework to heat shrink to arts and crafts even.? Just unplug them when not in use!? As for the comment on the "rolling ball" solder... You do not need special solder.? What you need is liquid flux.? If you have a decent masked board then you can flux the pin row and just roll a ball of solder down the row and get results like you pasted and masked the board or even reflowed it.? The same flux technique can be used with hot air if it seems like you might have cold joints.? ?It works to clean up pads before placing new ICs as well.? SMD work needs liquid flux and don't be shy about it. No you actually need more!?? Butane lighter fluid makes an okay clean up for any flux (since CFCs are now banned)... So don't be shy. Happy to hear that you found some STMs Hans.? I was going to say that Newark is showing batches of a few hundred coming in over the next few months.? Mouser is saying 75 weeks! We live in interesting times.? ?I'm looking for you when I am on those sites for work.? I like to develop with the ST ARM processors but I am wondering if I should not start learning some other manufacturers tools at this point.? They are about the worst hit of any manufacturer.? Fred W0FMS? On Sat, Oct 30, 2021, 3:39 PM Mike Perry, WA4MP <editor@...> wrote: Louis Rossmann repairs Macs and is one of the leaders in the right to repair movement. Many of the videos on his YouTube channel teach laptop repair to others. That includes working with SMDs. To see a list of all his videos on SMD replacement, you can go to his channel and search for ¡°replacing SMD¡±. |
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Re: removing SM ICs
Louis Rossmann repairs Macs and is one of the leaders in the right to repair movement. Many of the videos on his YouTube channel teach laptop repair to others. That includes working with SMDs. To see a list of all his videos on SMD replacement, you can go to his channel and search for ¡°replacing SMD¡±.
Here¡¯s one of those videos, "Replacing SMD components without burning neighboring connectors without hot tweezers." Hope that¡¯s helpful. I have a lot of respect for those bold enough to do this level of repair. I fear I would fry everything. ¡ªMike Perry, WA4MP |
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Re: QDX Build Videos Thread
I had to do some babysitting today so I actually had a large block of time to get it probably 1/2 done or so.? Mute your audio on your video when winding but especially inserting the leads on? L12.? I was imagining what I was saying.. What it would be in Turkish.? British English I think I used in addition to American profanity.? So that I did not have to imagine.? But why not?? ?Show and tell again.? Like you, I now have to do honeydos for the rest of the weekend. After this I am sure you will beat me to it.? 50+ hour week coming up next week.? Fred W0FMS? On Sat, Oct 30, 2021, 1:58 PM Ryan Flowers <geocrasher@...> wrote: Well I just got done editing the first video, and wow it takes a long time to do that stuff! Took me as long or longer than actually building. I got as far as the TXCO much like you, Fred, but I stopped the video at Capacitors for the sake of video length.? |
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Syd, one time out of over 60 repairs of QCX rigs: Classic, Plus and Mini, I found an issue with a 20 meter version that was doing this same thing. In that case the two middle capacitors (390 pf) were both labeled 390 (39 pF) instead of 391 (390 pF). BUT... very interestingly, one of them measured 39 pF as expected but the other one measured 390 pF. So I replaced the one that was only 39 pF and the problem was corrected. This is probably so rare as to not be the case with you but worth looking at. You should be seeing some good variations in output with all the adjustments you've made. The most dramatic change should be with adjustments of L3 and the least dramatic with L1 as you are matching the filter input impedance (L3 end) to the final transistors and the filter output (L1 end) to your 50 ohm dummy load. Since you have good continuity through the toroids, I think you should?take a closer look at the 4 capacitors at this point. Good luck ... Ron On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 2:09 PM Syd via <nhuq1=[email protected]> wrote: So far I have removed 2 turns on L1, expanded and compressed the windings before and after the change, and see no output change on the scope. So I added 4 turns back on the coil and tried expanding and compressing the windings again: still no change on the PP on the scope! So I went to L3 and tried the same procedure. Expanding and compressing the turns with the original turns and with 2 turns removed and then 4 turns added still got no change on the scope.? Since I do see a sine wave the filter must be doing something.? No matter which coil I fool around with, L1 - L3, expanding and compressing the windings either in the original number of turns, or when I remove 2 turns, or when I then add in 4 turns, I always get the same PP on the scope!? The continuity from C29 to the rf output is OK:? 0 ohms. So either the filter is way out of specs (the number of turns is OK according to the table) or I'm not adjusting the number of turns by enough windings to get to where the filter can operate properly.? Assuming the caps, C25 - C28 are the correct value I need advice on which coil to focus on and how many turns I should add or subtract from the coil to try to get in range for proper operation.? Obviously 2 turns is not enough.? It's quite hard to read the cap values after being installed on the board, so just to make sure they are the correct value I'll probably go to DigiKey and order some replacement caps just to eliminate them being the problem. Any ideas as to which coil is the most important to fool around with first and how much should I add or remove the turns? |
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Re: How does PTT work in QCX mini?
The just-out Rev 3 manual has a good explanation on page 80. Notice the change that has come with Rev 3. It is an improvement and a simple rewiring will make early models consistent.
PTT outputYou can download a PDF here ¡ªMike Perry, WA4MP On Oct 30, 2021, at 3:42 pm, CW Morse <RadioPrinceGeorge@...> wrote: |
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