¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: QMX, one of op-amps self-oscillates at 25 MHz (or picks up the system clock?)

 

On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:48 PM, Adam wrote:
2. With one of BPF capacitors (C401, C402, C404) grounded on the IC402
side, buzzing stops (only hiss / static noise is present), of course the
capacitor that does this depends on the selected band. Probably because
grounding it removes the biasing done by R401 + R402.

3. Grounding these capacitors on the other side (RX_IN) does nothing, the
buzzing continues.
These two observations tell me that your problem is 'to the right' of the capacitor.? If it was 'to the left', i.e. towards schematic page 5, grounding the input side of the capacitor would also have made the problem go away.? If the buzz was coming through that capacitor, it could also be trapped on its input.? Grounding the selected one of those capacitors
Have you checked carefully R401/R402/C406? A bad C406 in that biasing circuit could cause oscillations and disturb the audio.
Are you certain that there is no anomaly with T401?? Maybe one of the trifilar windings partially shorting against another one, due to enamel being scratched?
Is the buzzing only on 'left' or 'right' audio, or both? If it is on both, it is unlikely that the source is the op amps, since past their inputs, the paths are independent.? If it is on only one, I would suspect that op amp.
And finally, as unlikely as it seems, IC407 has been the most common failure source of anything related to audio in the QMX.? If none of the previous apply, I would replace that one.
Stan KC7XE
btw - you are the third person now recently who I have heard blew the IC403 with a strong overvoltage burning through the 5V supply, myself being one of them (I inadvertently turned QMX+ on with a 17.5V supply).? I don't know why the nearly identical IC402 didn't also blow.? Maybe it's the doubled bias across the Z/W pins.


Re: QMX, one of op-amps self-oscillates at 25 MHz (or picks up the system clock?)

 

Chuck Harris via groups.io <cfharris@...> wrote:

On more than a few occasions I have found that a scope
probe will excite a high speed, high impedance op amp
circuit into oscillating.
But sticking the probe didn't change anything in the audio. Wouldn't it do
it, if this was the cause?

Anyway, an update, if someone's still interested.

After frying SMPS boards I decided to make linear regulators (which I
generally wanted to do anyway) and I'm back to square one. QMX buzzes just
like it did, but op-amp doesn't self-oscillate anymore.

5V line is clean too (with the SMPS it wasn't, there was some strange
distorted waveform there, I can provide a photo if someone's interested;
but the waveform is not there anymore and the symptom didn't go away, so
it's probably irrelevant).

Some observations:

1. With IC403 removed the buzzing stops (it only hisses, normal radio
static noise).

2. With one of BPF capacitors (C401, C402, C404) grounded on the IC402
side, buzzing stops (only hiss / static noise is present), of course the
capacitor that does this depends on the selected band. Probably because
grounding it removes the biasing done by R401 + R402.

3. Grounding these capacitors on the other side (RX_IN) does nothing, the
buzzing continues.

I ordered two new LM4562 amps, I want to blindly replace them and test,
but it's just that -- blind waving of the soldering gun with no real idea
what can be going on.

I have nine new 3253's (I had ten, but one replaced IC403 that developed a
short after frying these SMPSes), but I don't want to replace IC402 just
yet -- something tells me this chip is OK, I just see no reasons to
suspect it, it's just a switch. Or are there reasons?

Further down the line we have Q508 and all these PIN diodes and filters.
Frankly speaking, I don't see anything here that could cause this buzzing.
Should I try removing Q508, even if grounding its source made no
difference? This is so tiny and fragile that I don't want to remove
components without any suspicion.

So, ideas are still welcome...

Thanks.


Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX

 

Karl,

Would you mind sharing the source of your tester(s)?

73!
de Bekir TA2RX

8 Oca 2025 ?ar 05:23 tarihinde Karl via <karlshumaker=[email protected]> ?unu yazd?:

Here is my USB cable continuity tester:
--
That is the printer cable I am using for the QDX, IC-7300 and the QCU Clock.
All four LED's are lit so power and data functional.
73
Karl
KI4ZUQ


Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph

 

On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 07:17 PM, Stan Dye wrote:
a better solution would be to add a FET switch to turn on your relay
Don't forget the flywheel diode across the relay coil so you don't blow out the driver.
There is also a current-limiting resistor behind the PTT output which could be reduced somewhat for more current, but a driver would be my choice.
73, Don N2VGU


Re: Soldering Station Recommendations

 

On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:25 PM, Dave S. wrote:
Solder: ?
I suggest Chipquik, Multicore or Kester 63-37 with RMA core solders vs Chinese mystery metal.? I use 0.020" and 0.032" a lot, 0.015" occasionally for real fine work.??
Also a couple pf pairs of #7SA (stainless, antimagnetic) tweezers.? you will want more than one, you will invariably drop them and they will invariably land light (pointy) end down, turning the tips to "elf shoes."
Antimagnetic is important because many chip components have magnetic nickel electrode plating and some ICs have magnetic lead frame material.? Both will stick annoyingly to magnetic tweezers.
?
73, Don N2VGU


[QMX] SMPS to linear regulator conversion tips

 

Hi,

I just replaced SMPS boards in my QMX with a linear regulator board, and
removed the power switch (I always found it annoying). Some tips, if
someone wants to do the same:

1. 3V3 regulator (I used the 78M33 which was normally used to "bootstrap"
the CPU before SMPSes took over) will get bloody hot. QMX draws around 100
mA on this line, which isn't much, but at 12 V it translates to 870 mW of
power dissipated in the regulator. Make sure you provide as much ground
plane for heatsinking as possible. I did, and my regulator is still almost
90¡ãC. I'm not sure how it will behave long term.

2. CPU needs two fake signals: ADC_5V (2.5 V) and ADC_3V3 (1.65 V). The
reason is that it still tries to drive nonexistent SMPSes, expecting
feedback on these two lines. It won't boot without them. Just provide
resistive dividers, like in the original design (resistor values are not
critical, I used 18k).

3. Lines PWM_5V, PWM_3V3 and LIN_REG_EN can be ignored (unconnected).

4. 100 uF capacitors (instead of 470 uF ones used in original boards) seem
to be sufficient. Maybe even smaller ones would be OK.

When it comes to the power switch removal:

1. V_IN can be hooked directly to +12V (but you lose reverse polarity
protection this way).

2. PWR_HOLD signal can be ignored.

3. PWR_ON signal can be ignored, but the original SMPS board has a 100k
pullup (to V_IN) on this line. Make sure your board contains this pullup
as well (although I used a much lower value, 4k7). If you keep this line
floating, then the (very sensitive) gate of Q202 will get triggered by
literally anything.

4. QMX will power on automatically. When you want to turn it off by long
pressing the knob, it will show "Shutdown!" and hang. At this stage, the
MCU releases PWR_HOLD line, but without the power switch this does
nothing. Only power cycle seems to be able to recover from this state
(understandable).

5. CPU seems to save current state (mode, frequency) to EEPROM only upon
shutdown, so if you just remove the power without shutting QMX down with
the knob press, current state won't be retained. This can be a problem or
an advantage.

Hope it helps.


Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX

 

Here is my USB cable continuity tester:
--
That is the printer cable I am using for the QDX, IC-7300 and the QCU Clock.
All four LED's are lit so power and data functional.
73
Karl
KI4ZUQ


Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX

 

In addition to what Lasse says, it may be necessary to "show hidden devices" in order to see the entry that is blocking you.
?
73, Mike KK7ER
?
Did that. Got this: "Unknown USB Device(Device Descriptor Request Failed)"
Got this about 8 times with all the attempts.
?
--
73
Karl
KI4ZUQ


Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph

 

Thank you Stan?

Great suggestion!??

GREG


On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 7:17 PM, Stan Dye via groups.io
<standye@...> wrote:
Greg, a better solution would be to add a FET switch to turn on your relay - the gate of a FET is what the output of QMX was designed for, not to directly drive a relay.
A simple FET switch and a 470nF capacitor across the relay terminals, with a 9V transistor battery (or 5V arduino power source) would work well to switch your relay.
Stan KC7XE
?
?


Re: The USB connection is not working.

 

An update, as always I think the problem is the simplest one, I have type-c to type-c cables, I couldn't get any response from any type-c port of the computer I was using, then I tried the type-a ports on my motherboard using a type-c to type-a converter, I could only get response from the usb2.0 usb port, it shows the device for 2-3 seconds, but then it keeps beeping as "unknown device", the solution is to buy a relatively older type-c to type-a cable and try the usb2.0 ports again, if not, try again on an older generation computer, try and try and try... I guess that's the fun of it :)
?
I'll write again with the latest situation, 73.
?
TA2KTK - Tayfun


Re: nothing happening

 

thanks Nick,
yes i have instakked ?the aux2 jumper.
measured also against the antenna plug earth withbthe same results.
but looking at the values do you think the 3.3v is ok?
?
hanz


Re: nothing happening

 

thanks Greg,
it is a difficult one.
yes i soldered the forced bootliader mode link.
hanz


Re: Soldering Station Recommendations

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I went this way and never have looked back:


and


A few more bucks, but I have used them heavily ever since. I just use a small 12v fan to blow smoke away from the work area.

Good light, good magnification, a board holder, and a few hand tools are essential.

KD4IZ

On Jan 7, 2025, at 18:25, Dave S. <KO6FAD@...> wrote:

?
Hello Greg:? based on your experience with it and reviews I've read on Amazon, I'm going to order the WEP 882D.? Just $60.00 -- amazing, for so much flexibility!? The fact that you built so many QRP Labs kits with this station says a lot.??
?
Chip Quick makes an array of paste products.? Can you provide an exact recommendation?
?
I plan on ordering these other items:
?
Solder: ?
?
Helping Hands/Soldering Mat: ?
(I have doubts about its ESD suppression abilities when boards are being held off of the surface.)
?
Smoke extractor: ?
?
Any additional comments from anyone are welcome before I pull the trigger on this order!
?
Thank you!? --73


Re: The USB connection is not working.

 

Dear Stan,
Thank you for your interest, I have already tried what you wrote before, but I checked it again in order and the result is the same, no new ports (COM & LPT) appear in the "device manager" screen, there is also no new device as an audio driver, so in short, it's like the USB connection never happened.
?
TA2KTK - Tayfun


Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph

 

Greg, a better solution would be to add a FET switch to turn on your relay - the gate of a FET is what the output of QMX was designed for, not to directly drive a relay.
A simple FET switch and a 470nF capacitor across the relay terminals, with a 9V transistor battery (or 5V arduino power source) would work well to switch your relay.
Stan KC7XE
?
?


Re: The USB connection is not working.

 

Tayfun,
?
Often Windows will not make a sound at all when you plug in the QMX+ correctly, because it uses the same USB virtual serial port we use on other devices, and it already has the driver installed and ready.
Follow this procedure, starting with your QMX+ not plugged in to the computer:
1) In Windows 11, bring up "Device Manager" (right-click on the windows start icon, and there is a selection for it).? In Device Manager, if there is a selection for "Ports (COM & LPT)", expand it and see what devices are present.? If there is no such selection, it's ok, you don't have any currently active.
2) Now with QMX+ power off, plug in the USB data cable to QMX+ and PC.
3) Now power on the QMX+ while watching the Device Manager window.
A new device should appear within a few seconds under "Ports (COM & LPT)", and if that ports selection wasn't there before, it should appear with one entry.
This new entry is your QMX+ - note the com port number it is using so you can use it with PuTTY or TeraTerm or whatever terminal emulator you will use.
?
A key here is that QMX+ only initializes its USB port when it powers on, and only IF it sees that the cable is plugged in.? So you need to power it on, or power-cycle it AFTER you plug in the cable in order for the computer to recognize it.
?
I hope this helps.? There is not a lot that can go wrong in the QMX+ hardware, since there isn't much, as you have seen.? Just a couple of wires and resistors, leading into processor pins.? So usually it is something related to the connection or startup procedure.? Win11 has all the necessary drivers pre-installed, so it should be ready to go unless you have done some specific driver unloading.
?
Stan KC7XE
?


QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph

 

Good evening from chilly Southwest Florida
?
I've run into an issue with a relay I wired into an adjustable attenuator board.
The PTT signals coming from both my QMX HB Rev2 and my QDX LB rev 5 aren't sufficient to keep the relay pulled.
?
Completely my bad.
I tested my chosen relays on a breadboard and used 5V from an Arduino Uno to confirm I had the correct pinouts and where to tie into the attenuator board (QRPKits - 41dB selectable). Nice solid pull-ins and signals attenuated when expected.
I didn't test with the actual PTT Voltage and current available from the Q's until I had everything tied in.
?
I vaguely remember see somewhere that it may be possible to make more +5v current available on these units.?
Hoping someone can confirm that and give me an idea where the find messages/information. And what pitfalls I might run into if there are mods for use with QPR 50W amps that I have.?
?
The relay is an HK 19F-DC5V-SHG.? It needs about 0.2W to feed the approximately 125 Ohm coil.?
On the Q's there is no solid, clearly audible relay click-in with PTT but there is faint click when dropping PTT.
I see about 1.8V across the coil when PTT is asserted.
?
Thanks in advance,
?
?
GREG KI4NVX
?
?


Re: Soldering Station Recommendations

 

Hello Greg:? based on your experience with it and reviews I've read on Amazon, I'm going to order the WEP 882D.? Just $60.00 -- amazing, for so much flexibility!? The fact that you built so many QRP Labs kits with this station says a lot.??
?
Chip Quick makes an array of paste products.? Can you provide an exact recommendation?
?
I plan on ordering these other items:
?
Solder: ?
?
Helping Hands/Soldering Mat: ?
(I have doubts about its ESD suppression abilities when boards are being held off of the surface.)
?
Smoke extractor: ?
?
Any additional comments from anyone are welcome before I pull the trigger on this order!
?
Thank you!? --73


The USB connection is not working.

 

Hello, I just built a QMX+, the controls on the device work, but I couldn't test it fully because I don't have an HF antenna in my workshop. When I wanted to test it by connecting it to my computer, I found that the USB connection doesn't work, when I plug in the cable my computer doesn't react at all, there is no warning like "device unknown", it's as if the cable was never plugged in. Then I started searching the group posts and double-checked the items I wrote below,

- I am sure that the cable I am using is suitable for data transmission
- It was written that the smd mount USB-c connector sometimes has soldering errors, I made sure it was soldered correctly,
- I have checked the 2 lines coming out of the USB-c connector and going to the microcontroller and they look healthy,
?
I am using windows 11 operating system, I don't have access to an older version of windows or linux distro for now but I will try them.
?
Many thanks in advance for your help on the subject.
TA2KTK - Tayfun


Re: Initializing:Enable SI5351A

 

Mine did that recently too.
Just shutdown everything and reconnected PD bank and trigger cable, USB cable, dummy load etc.

Have no idea why.
Just did it once.

GREG


On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 4:37 PM, Alan G4ZFQ via groups.io
<alan4alan@...> wrote:
On 07/01/2025 19:24, Halil via groups.io wrote:
> When the device is turned on, it shuts down after this error message.
> What could be the reason for this error?

What device?

The message seems to indicate a problem with, or around, the SI5351

73 Alan G4ZFQ