Re: key short the first dash
Hi A1aop,
The solution to differing standards of key wiring has being reported
before.
The solution for straight keys / Keyers is to build a short adaptor
lead, a 3.5mm line mono jack socket connected to just the Tip &
Sleeve
of a stereo 3.5mm jack plug and all is resolved, with the correct
selection also in setup menu.
And you can retain the use of the key with your previous radio(s)
interchangeably.
Hope this helps, Alan.
On 28/01/2018 19:04, A1aop via
Groups.Io wrote:
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Having the same
problem no matter what paddle I use. Haven't tried an external
keyer since the mono cord from the keyer shorts the rigs jack,
unless I'm doing something wrong.
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Re: key short the first dash
Having the same problem no matter what paddle I use. Haven't tried an external keyer since the mono cord from the keyer shorts the rigs jack, unless I'm doing something wrong.
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making mods to the clock kit
#clock
The clock and GPS kits are neat. Of course, I can't leave well enough alone so I am working on a portable gps/clock powered by four AA batteries with front panel switches to turn off the GPS and backlight and pots to control contrast and backlight brightness. From the various data sheets, it looks like the GPS board needs about 35mA while acquiring a signal and 25mA while tracking and the clock board, with the backlight turned off, needs 5mA. I think that the backlight requires 150mA at full brightness but different data sheets seem to say different things so I am not sure, So, question one:? can anyone confirm my estimates with measured currents used by GPS and clock kits?
Second question: since the GPS board uses 74ACT08s to drive the signal lines, I can drive more than one TTL load with the 1PPS and TxD lines, right?
Third question: I am guessing that the clock kit iinterrogates the GPS to get the GGA data frame. Is there any reason why I can't passively listen for decode that frame with another device?
73 de bill K7WXW
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Re: key short the first dash
Hans, is there a solution to my problem?
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I've got 20m QCX S/N 924 working. I was getting the line of blocks, and L5 was showing 20MOhms. I replaced it with a 100uH on hand and fixed the problem. I've aligned it but it's late now. No mods -- maybe later.
Looking forward to putting it on the air tomorrow.
73 Bill KA3BMU?
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Re: AM Broadcast Interference QCX
Thanks Jerry,
All great ideas. I will try them.
I tend not to ground the filter since I don't always have it in line, I sometimes MW dx. Shack is on the second floor, though I do have a ground line down to the yard. So far I've made solid QSOs in spite of the interference, since most of us hard core CW guys have the built-in filter between our ears, hi.
73
Jerry N3HAM
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Re: AM Broadcast Interference QCX
Yes the interference goes away. Looking to eventually case it up, I do have a tin that it fits in, just need to figure a way not to butcher it up. It would make a nice companion to my PFR3 for park portable.
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Re: AM Broadcast Interference QCX
They are listed at 50K, but not sure it's that high according to a search on the station. Think they may actually be going off air and selling the transmitter site for developement. Last community group meeting mentioned something about that area, and I'm gathering more info. My other HF rigs not as bad with the BC interference. My FT990 has some issues with FM though, some images sporadically throughout the HF range. I live near a very large antenna farm,the proverbial Radio Hill, where most of the FM and TV broadcasters have teir towers.?
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Re: Ultimate3S : huge frequency drift
Thanks all for your answers. These confirm the issue I experience?is not due a technical failure / malfunctioning?but more due to structural reasons, which I'm going to investigate.
73 and thanks for your help,
Ga?tan, ON4KHG
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Happy dance? ? sure was too quick to replace that 10 pf 989.16uf works much better.
Sure getting skilled at replacing parts especially this one
Many tx for your support
P
On Jan 27, 2018 2:13 PM, "John Pagett" < john.pagett@...> wrote: Phil,
Are you working on the right capacitor?
The 10uF (microfarad) is a black electrolytic capacitor.
You have to replace it with 100nF (nanofarad) - otherwise known as 0.1uF (microfarad).
10 and 100pF capacitors are much smaller values.
Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs..
73 John G4YTJ
Sent from my iPad No cigar. Removed the 10 pf cap, installed a 100pf but no luck There is a change? ?it seems the start of the cw note is where problem is
On a dash its more noticable? once the first dash has started the rest are clean and clear. I believe i can even have a very slight pause between dashes and its still clear,
I must be barking up the wrong tree. Using apple ear buds, iambic b, semi break in, is better than full break in.
Getting good at replacing components but dont want to do it too often.
Appreciate your support
P
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Re: Might be useful for testing etc - The LED-O-METER
Thanks Alan. I deleted the old message because there is no edit menu on this group, so some readers may be confused. Revised message is here? - /g/QRPLabs/topic/signal_trace_for_qcx_u3/9406138?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,940613873 de Andy
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I dug deeper into that junk box and came up with a carbon resistor and it measured 36 k exactly so i used it. now I am torn between finding a box or mounting every thing on the board. I guess I will put everything on the board for now.
Thanks again.?
Bill N8WS
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Re: Might be useful for testing etc - The LED-O-METER
Great idea Andy,
Build it in a disused clear biro pen.
It should get used more often than a screwdriver in the tool kit.
regards Alan
On 27/01/2018 19:14, Andy G0FTD via
Groups.Io wrote:
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Just been reading
about constructors trying to trace RF in their circuits.
Here's a neat trick to help fault find, the LED-O-METER.
All you need is 2 x 1N4148 or similar diodes (any old diodes will
do really), and any old LED.
See the photo -
The LED-O-METER has a little flying tail to it (a bit of wire !)
which you tap on to any point on the PCB to see if there's RF
there (at least a few hundred milliwatts).
Or use it as a field strength meter with a longer wire attached,
or with a simple connection to the output to tell you that your U3
/ QCX ot any tx is transmitting.
Sensitivity can be controlled by using series capacitance or
resistance in series with the flying tail part.
The LED-O-METER is a single ended devicce, no need for an earth.
73 de Andy
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Re: case for the clock kit w/ gps and buck converter
#case
#clock
Making a custom case from some scrap Plexiglas sheets I have.? ProgRock (on lower left) may end up under the QLG1.?? ? Acetone will be the adhesive. ? 73 Cliff k1iff ? ? ?
?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bill
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2018 1:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [QRPLabs] case for the clock kit w/ gps and buck converter #case #clock ? I am only now getting to the clock and gps kits I ordered last year (so many cool things to build, so little time).? I run everything radio-related on 12VDC so my version of the clock and gps combination will have a small 12VDC to 5VDC converter. I am wondering if anyone has built or bought a case that holds both the clock and the gps card?
thx and 73 de bill K7WXW
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Re: Very low RF output power
Howard
That's the spirit.? We can do it, because we refuse to give up. ? ? 8-)
Once you have an RF detector probe I think things will be much clearer as to where
the RF is, and where it is not.? Sometimes we get caught up in the idea that we need
fancy and expensive test equipment, when just a little knowledge and some fundamental
testing is totally adequate.? When you consider the chicken versus the egg, it becomes
obvious that knowledge came first.
Arv
_._
On Sat, Jan 27, 2018 at 10:33 AM, <hsilverwater@...> wrote: These were DC measurements on the bs170. I need to read about the RF probe, from the reference you sent me and then build or borrow one to make the measurements you are suggesting.?
Also, it was suggested that maybe I burned out the BS170, when the low pass relay board was in the circuit and caused a short between the RF out and ground? (now it out of the circuit)... but if I have these DC measurements now, it means that BS170 is still good. Yes?
Thanks again, for your time... we will solve the problem... (that's the spirit). I'll work on the problem during the week... in and around my volunteer work.
73 Howard 4x1zz
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Signal trace for QCX / U3 fault finding, or other projects.
Just been reading about constructors trying to trace RF in their circuits.
Here's a neat trick to help fault find, the LED-O-METER.
All you need is 2 x 1N4148 or similar diodes (any old diodes will do really), and any old LED.
See the photo -
The LED-O-METER has a little flying tail to it (a bit of wire !) which you tap on to any point on the PCB to see if there's RF there (at least a few hundred milliwatts).
Or use it as a field strength meter with a longer wire attached, or with a simple connection to the output to tell you that your U3 / QCX ot any tx is transmitting.
Sensitivity can be controlled by using series capacitance or resistance in series with the flying tail part.
The LED-O-METER is a single ended device, no need for an earth.
|
Phil,
Are you working on the right capacitor?
The 10uF (microfarad) is a black electrolytic capacitor.
You have to replace it with 100nF (nanofarad) - otherwise known as 0.1uF (microfarad).
10 and 100pF capacitors are much smaller values.
Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs..
73 John G4YTJ
Sent from my iPad
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 27 Jan 2018, at 19:04, Phil Moorey < pmooreyca@...> wrote: No cigar. Removed the 10 pf cap, installed a 100pf but no luck There is a change? ?it seems the start of the cw note is where problem is
On a dash its more noticable? once the first dash has started the rest are clean and clear. I believe i can even have a very slight pause between dashes and its still clear,
I must be barking up the wrong tree. Using apple ear buds, iambic b, semi break in, is better than full break in.
Getting good at replacing components but dont want to do it too often.
Appreciate your support
P
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No cigar. Removed the 10 pf cap, installed a 100pf but no luck There is a change? ?it seems the start of the cw note is where problem is
On a dash its more noticable? once the first dash has started the rest are clean and clear. I believe i can even have a very slight pause between dashes and its still clear,
I must be barking up the wrong tree. Using apple ear buds, iambic b, semi break in, is better than full break in.
Getting good at replacing components but dont want to do it too often.
Appreciate your support
P
On Jan 25, 2018 3:51 PM, "Frank PA7F" < F.e.vandijk@...> wrote: Phil, you have to remove the 10 uF cap. See message thread #20843.
Frank PA7F
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case for the clock kit w/ gps and buck converter
#case
#clock
I am only now getting to the clock and gps kits I ordered last year (so many cool things to build, so little time).? I run everything radio-related on 12VDC so my version of the clock and gps combination will have a small 12VDC to 5VDC converter. I am wondering if anyone has built or bought a case that holds both the clock and the gps card?
thx and 73 de bill K7WXW
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Re: Very low RF output power
Oh, and the bs170 may be ok, mine was transmitting into a short and was ok, I've also transmitted with no antenna or dummy load fitted and it was ok.
Andy
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Alan de G1FXB
bill K7WXW
M0RON