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Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX
I made it from parts from Amazon. The prototype printed circuit board is just a bunch of through-plated solder pads to mount and connect every type of USB receptacle. It is powered by a 5 volt wall adapter but a rechargeable cell could be used. All the receptacles are on break-out boards so the connections were easy.
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73 Karl KI4ZUQ |
Re: [QMX] SMPS to linear regulator conversion tips
Signals ADC_5V and ADC_3V3 back to the host should be a bit high by maybe a tenth of a volt.
If the processor doesn't see a high enough voltage,? it waits until it does before running any further code.
It's ok if those signals are a bit high, but there is no margin on the low side.
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I'm amazed the 78M33 works at all, that's a lot of power to dissipate.
I'd recommend either going with a bigger regulator (and a heat sink), or feeding the 78M33 from your 5v linear..
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Jerry, KE7ER
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On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:32 PM, Adam wrote:
2. CPU needs two fake signals: ADC_5V (2.5 V) and ADC_3V3 (1.65 V). The |
Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph
Donald, most MOSFETs have an internal diode, so the flywheel diode is not absolutely necessary for a small low-voltage relay.? If the relay has a large coil or runs off higher voltage, yes, I would definitely include the diode.
The very popular ATU100 tuner (7x7) has 14 relays with 14 FETs and just capacitors across the relay terminals, and I have not heard of any of those drivers blowing out (including in the one I have).
Stan |
Re: QMX, one of op-amps self-oscillates at 25 MHz (or picks up the system clock?)
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:48 PM, Adam wrote:
2. With one of BPF capacitors (C401, C402, C404) grounded on the IC402These two observations tell me that your problem is 'to the right' of the capacitor.? If it was 'to the left', i.e. towards schematic page 5, grounding the input side of the capacitor would also have made the problem go away.? If the buzz was coming through that capacitor, it could also be trapped on its input.? Grounding the selected one of those capacitors Have you checked carefully R401/R402/C406? A bad C406 in that biasing circuit could cause oscillations and disturb the audio.
Are you certain that there is no anomaly with T401?? Maybe one of the trifilar windings partially shorting against another one, due to enamel being scratched?
Is the buzzing only on 'left' or 'right' audio, or both? If it is on both, it is unlikely that the source is the op amps, since past their inputs, the paths are independent.? If it is on only one, I would suspect that op amp.
And finally, as unlikely as it seems, IC407 has been the most common failure source of anything related to audio in the QMX.? If none of the previous apply, I would replace that one.
Stan KC7XE
btw - you are the third person now recently who I have heard blew the IC403 with a strong overvoltage burning through the 5V supply, myself being one of them (I inadvertently turned QMX+ on with a 17.5V supply).? I don't know why the nearly identical IC402 didn't also blow.? Maybe it's the doubled bias across the Z/W pins. |
Re: QMX, one of op-amps self-oscillates at 25 MHz (or picks up the system clock?)
Chuck Harris via groups.io <cfharris@...> wrote:
On more than a few occasions I have found that a scopeBut sticking the probe didn't change anything in the audio. Wouldn't it do it, if this was the cause? Anyway, an update, if someone's still interested. After frying SMPS boards I decided to make linear regulators (which I generally wanted to do anyway) and I'm back to square one. QMX buzzes just like it did, but op-amp doesn't self-oscillate anymore. 5V line is clean too (with the SMPS it wasn't, there was some strange distorted waveform there, I can provide a photo if someone's interested; but the waveform is not there anymore and the symptom didn't go away, so it's probably irrelevant). Some observations: 1. With IC403 removed the buzzing stops (it only hisses, normal radio static noise). 2. With one of BPF capacitors (C401, C402, C404) grounded on the IC402 side, buzzing stops (only hiss / static noise is present), of course the capacitor that does this depends on the selected band. Probably because grounding it removes the biasing done by R401 + R402. 3. Grounding these capacitors on the other side (RX_IN) does nothing, the buzzing continues. I ordered two new LM4562 amps, I want to blindly replace them and test, but it's just that -- blind waving of the soldering gun with no real idea what can be going on. I have nine new 3253's (I had ten, but one replaced IC403 that developed a short after frying these SMPSes), but I don't want to replace IC402 just yet -- something tells me this chip is OK, I just see no reasons to suspect it, it's just a switch. Or are there reasons? Further down the line we have Q508 and all these PIN diodes and filters. Frankly speaking, I don't see anything here that could cause this buzzing. Should I try removing Q508, even if grounding its source made no difference? This is so tiny and fragile that I don't want to remove components without any suspicion. So, ideas are still welcome... Thanks. |
Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX
Karl, Would you mind sharing the source of your tester(s)? 73! de Bekir TA2RX 8 Oca 2025 ?ar 05:23 tarihinde Karl via <karlshumaker=[email protected]> ?unu yazd?:
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Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 07:17 PM, Stan Dye wrote:
a better solution would be to add a FET switch to turn on your relayDon't forget the flywheel diode across the relay coil so you don't blow out the driver. There is also a current-limiting resistor behind the PTT output which could be reduced somewhat for more current, but a driver would be my choice.
73, Don N2VGU |
Re: Soldering Station Recommendations
On Tue, Jan 7, 2025 at 06:25 PM, Dave S. wrote:
Solder: ?I suggest Chipquik, Multicore or Kester 63-37 with RMA core solders vs Chinese mystery metal.? I use 0.020" and 0.032" a lot, 0.015" occasionally for real fine work.?? Also a couple pf pairs of #7SA (stainless, antimagnetic) tweezers.? you will want more than one, you will invariably drop them and they will invariably land light (pointy) end down, turning the tips to "elf shoes."
Antimagnetic is important because many chip components have magnetic nickel electrode plating and some ICs have magnetic lead frame material.? Both will stick annoyingly to magnetic tweezers.
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73, Don N2VGU |
[QMX] SMPS to linear regulator conversion tips
Hi,
I just replaced SMPS boards in my QMX with a linear regulator board, and removed the power switch (I always found it annoying). Some tips, if someone wants to do the same: 1. 3V3 regulator (I used the 78M33 which was normally used to "bootstrap" the CPU before SMPSes took over) will get bloody hot. QMX draws around 100 mA on this line, which isn't much, but at 12 V it translates to 870 mW of power dissipated in the regulator. Make sure you provide as much ground plane for heatsinking as possible. I did, and my regulator is still almost 90¡ãC. I'm not sure how it will behave long term. 2. CPU needs two fake signals: ADC_5V (2.5 V) and ADC_3V3 (1.65 V). The reason is that it still tries to drive nonexistent SMPSes, expecting feedback on these two lines. It won't boot without them. Just provide resistive dividers, like in the original design (resistor values are not critical, I used 18k). 3. Lines PWM_5V, PWM_3V3 and LIN_REG_EN can be ignored (unconnected). 4. 100 uF capacitors (instead of 470 uF ones used in original boards) seem to be sufficient. Maybe even smaller ones would be OK. When it comes to the power switch removal: 1. V_IN can be hooked directly to +12V (but you lose reverse polarity protection this way). 2. PWR_HOLD signal can be ignored. 3. PWR_ON signal can be ignored, but the original SMPS board has a 100k pullup (to V_IN) on this line. Make sure your board contains this pullup as well (although I used a much lower value, 4k7). If you keep this line floating, then the (very sensitive) gate of Q202 will get triggered by literally anything. 4. QMX will power on automatically. When you want to turn it off by long pressing the knob, it will show "Shutdown!" and hang. At this stage, the MCU releases PWR_HOLD line, but without the power switch this does nothing. Only power cycle seems to be able to recover from this state (understandable). 5. CPU seems to save current state (mode, frequency) to EEPROM only upon shutdown, so if you just remove the power without shutting QMX down with the knob press, current state won't be retained. This can be a problem or an advantage. Hope it helps. |
Re: Computer not connecting to newly built QDX
In addition to what Lasse says, it may be necessary to "show hidden devices" in order to see the entry that is blocking you.
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73, Mike KK7ER
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Did that. Got this: "Unknown USB Device(Device Descriptor Request Failed)"
Got this about 8 times with all the attempts.
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73 Karl KI4ZUQ |
Re: QMX and QDX - Not enough 5V PTT oomph
Thank you Stan?
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Great suggestion!?? GREG
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Re: The USB connection is not working.
An update, as always I think the problem is the simplest one, I have type-c to type-c cables, I couldn't get any response from any type-c port of the computer I was using, then I tried the type-a ports on my motherboard using a type-c to type-a converter, I could only get response from the usb2.0 usb port, it shows the device for 2-3 seconds, but then it keeps beeping as "unknown device", the solution is to buy a relatively older type-c to type-a cable and try the usb2.0 ports again, if not, try again on an older generation computer, try and try and try... I guess that's the fun of it :)
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I'll write again with the latest situation, 73.
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TA2KTK - Tayfun
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and
A few more bucks, but I have used them heavily ever since. I just use a small 12v fan to blow smoke away from the work area.
Good light, good magnification, a board holder, and a few hand tools are essential.
KD4IZ