Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
Search
Tune Ups
|
Hi Listers,
I am planning on doing some much need maintenance on my 87 S4 and need some feedback on a few items. I know most people replace the caps and rotors when doing a tune up. Im curious if anyone has replaced theirs due to cracks or rotor wear as opposed to "just because it should be done". In my experience (domestic and european 80's up), I have yet to run across a cap and rotor that really needed to be replaced and the only ones I did replace were due to moisture getting in there (also dosed it with silicone spray) so I don't know if the cap really needed to be replaced? Has anyone done the Nology wires recently (Adam - got yours yet??) I know Chris F did his and found he had to replace the ground? wires due to the holes being too small to bolt to the valve cover. Has this been redesigned? Does anyone know of a way to check the coils (87 S4). I recall something about measuring resistance. Any simple instructions out there? Just read the post on the Rennlist about the Nology wires. Any hints on replacing the passenger side coil?? And finally, does anyone have the ball joint separator (VW part I think) that I could borrow, or know of a place where it is cheaper than $100. Thanks in advance, later Tom midlman@... 87S4 97 850R Sportwagon (family hauler!!!!!) |
|
Chris Ford
Tom
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Actually only the crimp terminal needs to be replaced not the whole ground wire, DR drilled his out but mine just buckled when I tried that. Are your cables still on back order Adam ??? As for the passenger side coil, it is a bear. I tackled this job as a seperate task, main problem was the routing of the low voltage wires, there was no slack so trying to move the thing around for better access was difficult. On refitting I re-routed the wires to make it easier. Off the top of my head, unhooking the air pump filter hose helps a bunch, removal of the radiator hoses would also help but I didn;t want to do that ..... You need a deep 10mm socket to unbolt the clamp nut, a wrench isn't going to go in there. Removal of the coil is acheived by moving towards the bulk head and then out. Adam did this more recently so maybe he can help more. My caps and rotors were replaced before I picked the car up last year so no idea on condition just the expense !! Have fun Chris -----Original Message-----
From: midlman@... [mailto:midlman@...] Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 8:13 AM To: PacNW928@... Subject: [PacNW928] Tune Ups Hi Listers, I am planning on doing some much need maintenance on my 87 S4 and need some feedback on a few items. I know most people replace the caps and rotors when doing a tune up. Im curious if anyone has replaced theirs due to cracks or rotor wear as opposed to "just because it should be done". In my experience (domestic and european 80's up), I have yet to run across a cap and rotor that really needed to be replaced and the only ones I did replace were due to moisture getting in there (also dosed it with silicone spray) so I don't know if the cap really needed to be replaced? Has anyone done the Nology wires recently (Adam - got yours yet??) I know Chris F did his and found he had to replace the ground? wires due to the holes being too small to bolt to the valve cover. Has this been redesigned? Does anyone know of a way to check the coils (87 S4). I recall something about measuring resistance. Any simple instructions out there? Just read the post on the Rennlist about the Nology wires. Any hints on replacing the passenger side coil?? And finally, does anyone have the ball joint separator (VW part I think) that I could borrow, or know of a place where it is cheaper than $100. Thanks in advance, later Tom midlman@... 87S4 97 850R Sportwagon (family hauler!!!!!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Old school buds here: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: PacNW928-unsubscribe@... |
|
In a message dated 5/23/00 1:56:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
midlman@... writes: Any thoughts of a re-dyno after doing the tune up. Im reallyTom, Sorry, The first time I had the car on the dyno was after I replaced the ignition wires. I used Magnecor, not Nology. No particular reason, except I didn't want to mess with the extra ground connection, and I didn't believe the theory behind the Nology advantage directly applied to the 928 ignition which has a fast spark rise time anyway. I'm not advising against Nology, I've never heard of anyone who didn't like them, or took them off, etc. I'm sure they work fine. The new wires had to be much better than the original wires, I could see spark arcs in several places where the wires passed close to metal. Other than smoother idle, I couldn't tell much difference. Maybe with Nology I would have<g>. Louie |
|
Adam Birnbaum
Hey Tom,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I found a lot of junk on my distributor cap contact points, but the rotors still looked fairly clean. I've heard vicious rumors that sanding the contact points on a cap and rotor to get a fresh surface can create extra resistance (increases the air gap) which can be hard on the coils and other electrical components. Could be a bunch of crap, I don't know. I just got my Nology Wires, and put in a call to 928SP about the ground wires. Jeannie said that starting with my batch, the grounding wire loops were to be the correct size for the 928 Valve cover bolt. On visual, they do look pretty big. As far as the coils are concerned, I don't know the protocol to test them. I have new ones that I'm going to install with my Nology Wires just as a preventative measure. (The current ones are originals with 106K) . Personally, I don't think I've ever heard of partial failure of coil, and before rennlist I'd never heard of anyone experiencing a coil failure. It's just a copper coil winding bathed in oil, right? Do coils actually degrade? I was kind of under the impression that they either work or they don't. If you want to take a collection on a ball joint separator, I would definitely pitch in. None of the rental shops down here have one. I had to use a pickle fork for my koni\eibach install, and that was very ugly. Let me know if you're interested in doing a "group buy". -Adam '88 S4 A/T ---------- From: midlman@... Has anyone done the Nology wires recently (Adam - got yours yet??) I |
|
Hi Adam,
As far as the coils are concerned, I don't know the protocol totest them. I have new ones that I'm going to install with my Nology Wires justas a preventative measure. (The current ones are originals with 106K) .Just curious, how do you know the coils are original? Personally, I don't think I've ever heard of partial failure ofcoil, and before rennlist I'd never heard of anyone experiencing a coilfailure. It's just a copper coil winding bathed in oil, right? Do coilsactually degrade? I was kind of under the impression that they either workor they don't.I'm not sure, will check the rennlist archives for more info. If you want to take a collection on a ball joint separator, I wouldI had to use a pickle fork for my koni\eibach install, and that was veryugly. Let me know if you're interested in doing a "group buy".Might be a good idea, last time I fooled with the upper control arm (replacing boot on ball joint), I merrily banged away and almost damaged the little aluminum lip that the boot clip goes around.. Later, Tom midlman@... |
|
Adam Birnbaum
Yo Tom,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I guess the coils being original is an assumption on my part. They are black (all the replacement coils I've seen have a silver casing) and look pretty beat up. On the ball joint issue, I'm going to have to replace the boots very soon. -Adam ---------- From: midlman@... |
|
At 11:43 AM 5/23/00 -0700, you wrote:
Hey Tom,Hi Adam, I can go through a way to test the output of your coils but I doubt that you have an oscilloscope and some high resistance resistors laying around handy...If, by some strange coincidence, you knew the internal resistance of the coil then you could load its output with a like value resistance with a 100:1 voltage divider built in for attaching your oscilloscope. Then, the voltage you see across the divider and displayed on the o-scope is multiplied by 100 to obtain the actual voltage across the divider. Generally speaking, the thing that degrades a coil is a breakdown of the internal insulation which allows shorts to develope. If they're not very significant shorts they will only slightly reduce the output voltage. However, if they are significant shorts then the output can be reduced to almost zero. Rgds, Bob East |
|
In a message dated 5/23/00 8:48:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
midlman@... writes: Hey, looks like we may need to arrange for a second dyno day!!!!to see a header equipped S4 (Don H) and a chipped S4 (Ray H). Lets keep thisTom, I found that you can do a full rpm run on an auto 928 by disconnecting the throttle position cable to the trans and pulling the kick down relay. I've never tried it so I'm not certain how you get it in the gear you want. Once it is in that gear though you can floor the accelerator and it won't kick down to a lower gear. This method was related to me by Marc Thomas (Devek). Louie |
|
I also have previously damaged the lip on an upper ball joint by using a
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
pickel fork. My advice is never pound on our sharks with a pickel fork. Whether you do a group buy or individual purchase of the seperator tool, it will be money well spent. Terry Redinger '89 S4 auto midlman@... wrote: Hi Adam,As far as the coils are concerned, I don't know the protocol totest |
|
Tom,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm game. The car is together, ready, willing, and able. Terry midlman@... wrote: Hey Adam, |
|
tmm
Hey, looks like we may need to arrange for a second dyno day!!!!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would definitely like to do the tune-up and then re-check on the dyno. Also would like to find a way to get a full run for the auto's. Here's an opportunity for those who couldn't make the last one. I would also like to see a header equipped S4 (Don H) and a chipped S4 (Ray H). Lets keep this thread going..... Later, Tom midlman@... 87S4 "redinger@..." wrote: Tom, |
|
ADAM BIRNBAUM
Hey Tom,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'd be up for a post tune up dyno, what the heck. -Adam ----- Original Message -----
From: <midlman@...> To: <PacNW928@...> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 1:55 PM Subject: [PacNW928] Re: Tune Ups Hey Adam, |
|
In a message dated 5/24/00 7:45:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
midlman@... writes: I have thought about disconnecting the kickdown, but not the throttleHi Tom, I think the TP cable determines at what speed the trans will do an upshift. You have noticed that at small throttle openings the upshifts come early while at larger throttle openings, but less than WOT, the upshifts come later. It is the TP cable that controls the trans to do this. At WOT, you also have the kickdown switch which forces a downshift. It may be that with the TP cable and kickdown both dasabled, you could have the trans selector in "2", or "3", and the trans would quickly shift to 2nd or 3rd and just stay there when you opened the throttle wide. You'd have to experiment a little. Don't think you would hurt anything. The Dastek is working fine, although I have it disconnected now to troubleshoot another problem. The engine quits intermittently. The ground from the LH (fuel injection) computer that keeps the fuel pump relay energized is going away, and that stops the engine instantly. I don't know why this is happening yet. I got a "loaner" LH computer from Dave Roberts and it has not stopped with his computer, but I'll have to run it a couple hundred miles to be sure. With my LH computer, I can sometimes go for a hundred miles and it won't quit. Other times (yesterday) it will quit 4 or 5 times within 100 feet. Oh, the joy of it all<g>. Louie |
|
Hi Louis,
I found that you can do a full rpm run on an auto 928 bydisconnecting the throttle position cable to the trans and pulling the kick downrelay. I've never tried it so I'm not certain how you get it in the gear youwant. Once it is in that gear though you can floor the accelerator and itwon't kick down to a lower gear. This method was related to me by Marc Thomas(Devek). I have thought about disconnecting the kickdown, but not the throttle position cable. Does the TP cable actutuate a tranny kickdown also, (maybe used for upshifts??) or is the kickdown switch responsible for downshifts? Kind of redundant if they both do the same job?? Anyway on a seperate topic, hows the "DASTEK" working out?? Later, Tom midlman@... |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss