|
I updated my hydrophone instructables with a new one. The biggest change is input protection for the OPA1642 high impedance buffer with a pair of?Schottky diodes. I stress?tested this big time after implementing.??
-- Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch
214 399 0931
|
Watched that earlier this morning. Thanks Jules I saw that JLi are now stocking piezo cylinders. If anyone in the UK, is on the lookout for them, I'd be happy to do a group buy as the shipping on a pair was more than the cost of the cylinders.
I updated my hydrophone instructables with a new one. The biggest change is input protection for the OPA1642 high impedance buffer with a pair of?Schottky diodes. I stress?tested this big time after implementing.??
-- Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch
214 399 0931
|
Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 11, 2024, at 11:21, pmfalcman via groups.io <pmfalcman@...> wrote:
?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
I'll happily take the STL from the instructable and convert the form into a split mould. I do CAD all day and have history of making tooling for Carbon Fibre parts, so it's a pretty easy process. If you could export as STP it would make life much easier as the CAD system I use doesn't play nicely with STP.
lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
I did it in Fusion 360 if that helps with any format I can export for you. Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 11, 2024, at 13:03, Adrian Hicks via groups.io <mail@...> wrote:
? I'll happily take the STL from the instructable and convert the form into a split mould. I do CAD all day and have history of making tooling for Carbon Fibre parts, so it's a pretty easy process. If you could export as STP it would make life much easier as the CAD system I use doesn't play nicely with STP. lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
Should be able to punt a STP from that or just screengrab the sketch profile of the revolve that is the actual form as moulded. Even if it isn't metric ?
I did it in Fusion 360 if that helps with any format I can export for you. Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ? I'll happily take the STL from the instructable and convert the form into a split mould. I do CAD all day and have history of making tooling for Carbon Fibre parts, so it's a pretty easy process. If you could export as STP it would make life much easier as the CAD system I use doesn't play nicely with STP. lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
Or even easier, give the the diameter and length, as in the length of the straight portion. From there I'll just add the hemisphere to the base and life will be good. Saves CAD faffing
On Tue, Jun 11, 2024, 19:27 Adrian Hicks < mail@...> wrote: Should be able to punt a STP from that or just screengrab the sketch profile of the revolve that is the actual form as moulded. Even if it isn't metric ?
I did it in Fusion 360 if that helps with any format I can export for you. Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ? I'll happily take the STL from the instructable and convert the form into a split mould. I do CAD all day and have history of making tooling for Carbon Fibre parts, so it's a pretty easy process. If you could export as STP it would make life much easier as the CAD system I use doesn't play nicely with STP. lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
Will do, I’m always from my Computer? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 11, 2024, at 13:30, Adrian Hicks via groups.io <mail@...> wrote:
? Or even easier, give the the diameter and length, as in the length of the straight portion. From there I'll just add the hemisphere to the base and life will be good. Saves CAD faffing On Tue, Jun 11, 2024, 19:27 Adrian Hicks < mail@...> wrote: Should be able to punt a STP from that or just screengrab the sketch profile of the revolve that is the actual form as moulded. Even if it isn't metric ?
I did it in Fusion 360 if that helps with any format I can export for you. Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ? I'll happily take the STL from the instructable and convert the form into a split mould. I do CAD all day and have history of making tooling for Carbon Fibre parts, so it's a pretty easy process. If you could export as STP it would make life much easier as the CAD system I use doesn't play nicely with STP. lol I do have a 3D printer. Just not enough time in the day lol ? Best Regards,
Jules Ryckebusch? ?Jules - in the instructable you wrote that you want a silicone mold.
First - you can make it yourself. I gather you have a 3D printer so you can print a form, get a molding silicone from a jewelry supplies shop and make one.
Though I suspect that demolding long hydrophone body may be problematic.
Soooo.... Why don't you print a reusable split mold? Two parts split vertically, with wings to clamp or (better) screw together.
Thick walls, obviously.
Mold release wax should seal the junction enough so the resin wouldn't leak.
|
