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Capsule damage during soldering (was: Primo EM200 + simple P48)

John Thaden All Messages By This Member #35742 Forgive me if I'm highjacking a thread here (I did change the subject line), but isn't there an alternative to soldering these valuable and sensitive condenser capsules? Maybe slver clay or paste as used by jewelers? If not, then can someone please direct me to a soldering protocol that includes materials and tools lists?? Or are there versions of these ideal capsules that have wire? leads?? I've got a nifty DIY project but I hesitate to jump in exactly for fear of capsule and PCB heat damage. Thank you, John Thaden Avian migration night flight calls recordist, College Station, Texas, USA
jack All Messages By This Member #35743 One thing they recommend is a metal former, basically a chunk of metal with a capsule sized hole drilled in it, with a smaller concentric hole that goes all the way through, to act as a heat sink.? You put your capsule in the hole and only keep the soldering iron in contact with the solder pad for a second or so.? I like to use leaded low temperature solder, but that doesn’t work well with pre-tinned capsule pads.? It does seem pretty crazy that the heating due to soldering would alter the response but I guess the diaphragms are extremely thin and delicate. J toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Tue, 7 Nov 2023 at 13:18, Joe Todd <jjthaden@...> wrote: Forgive me if I'm highjacking a thread here (I did change the subject line), but isn't there an alternative to soldering these valuable and sensitive condenser capsules? Maybe slver clay or paste as used by jewelers? If not, then can someone please direct me to a soldering protocol that includes materials and tools lists?? Or are there versions of these ideal capsules that have wire? leads?? I've got a nifty DIY project but I hesitate to jump in exactly for fear of capsule and PCB heat damage. Thank you, John Thaden Avian migration night flight calls recordist, College Station, Texas, USA
@jp8 All Messages By This Member #35754 Something to secure your capsule while soldering certainly helps. For small parts, I often use self-closing tweezers. But that may not work too well for round capsules. But maybe it works when grabbing the capsule between front and back side? Leaded solder should als work, provide you also reduce tip temperature at the same time. Say, between 320 an 350C max. And you'll want a good, temperature controlled soldering station. Professionally and for hobby use, I use JBC. By a miles distance the best you can get. You don't believe it until you have worked with it and have compared it side by side with eg Weller or Pace. Yes, they are expensive. But you can buy a JBC clone, eg the GVM T245 on Aliexpress and use with genuine JBC tips. Aliexpress tips often break down quickly and do not solder as well as genuine JBC. Last tip: scratch off the oxide layer from the solder joints on the capsule before soldering. The thin oxide layer acts as a heat barrier. Good luck! Jan L
underwood All Messages By This Member #35755 You can use a tiny plier with a rubber band on the handles as a tiny vice. Am Mi., 8. Nov. 2023 um 07:46?Uhr schrieb <j.postma8@...>: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Something to secure your capsule while soldering certainly helps. For small parts, I often use self-closing tweezers. But that may not work too well for round capsules. But maybe it works when grabbing the capsule between front and back side?
John Thaden All Messages By This Member #35756 Hi, original poster here. Big thanks to Jan, Jack and others for addressing my capsule heat-damage concerns. I can approach my "sky-mic" project with greater confidence. Remaining questions:? Solder: By "leaded", is it meant "low-temperature"? Different lead percentages? Best solder wire gauge? Resin-core? Acid-core? Solid? Brand/Model recommebdations? Capsule pads/solder joints: Do most or all capsules espoused on MicBuilders come with pretinned pads? Will Jan's "scratch off the oxide" preliminary step resolve a mentioned incompatibility with low-temperature (leaded?) solder? Or is it just that tip temperature must be high enough to also soften the pretinning? Thanks again! -John T ?sky-facing bird-call mic projecteer toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, Nov 8, 2023 at 12:46 AM, j.postma8@... <j.postma8@...> wrote: Something to secure your capsule while soldering certainly helps. For small parts, I often use self-closing tweezers. But that may not work too well for round capsules. But maybe it works when grabbing the capsule between front and back side? Leaded solder should als work, provide you also reduce tip temperature at the same time. Say, between 320 an 350C max. And you'll want a good, temperature controlled soldering station. Professionally and for hobby use, I use JBC. By a miles distance the best you can get. You don't believe it until you have worked with it and have compared it side by side with eg Weller or Pace. Yes, they are expensive. But you can buy a JBC clone, eg the GVM T245 on Aliexpress and use with genuine JBC tips. Aliexpress tips often break down quickly and do not solder as well as genuine JBC. Last tip: scratch off the oxide layer from the solder joints on the capsule before soldering. The thin oxide layer acts as a heat barrier. Good luck! Jan L _._,_._,_
jack All Messages By This Member #35757 开云体育 Lead solder has been outlawed for a while now as it’s poisonous when equipment is discarded and leaches into the ground. It generally has a lower melting point and it’s also more stable and a bit softer, which is why I prefer it, but ROHS laws in Europe prohibit its use in new products.? Kester is very good but be prepared to pay more than you expect for decent solder. It’s well worth it and reduces time in contact and heating of the component.? Some capsules come with pre-tinned pads, some don’t.? I use 0.7mm 60/40 2.2% flux, but there are probably many other options that would work equally well.? J toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 8 Nov 2023, at 09:42, Joe Todd <jjthaden@...> wrote: ?Hi, original poster here. Big thanks to Jan, Jack and others for addressing my capsule heat-damage concerns. I can approach my "sky-mic" project with greater confidence. Remaining questions:? Solder: By "leaded", is it meant "low-temperature"? Different lead percentages? Best solder wire gauge? Resin-core? Acid-core? Solid? Brand/Model recommebdations? Capsule pads/solder joints: Do most or all capsules espoused on MicBuilders come with pretinned pads? Will Jan's "scratch off the oxide" preliminary step resolve a mentioned incompatibility with low-temperature (leaded?) solder? Or is it just that tip temperature must be high enough to also soften the pretinning? Thanks again! -John T ?sky-facing bird-call mic projecteer On Wed, Nov 8, 2023 at 12:46 AM, j.postma8@... <j.postma8@...> wrote: Something to secure your capsule while soldering certainly helps. For small parts, I often use self-closing tweezers. But that may not work too well for round capsules. But maybe it works when grabbing the capsule between front and back side? Leaded solder should als work, provide you also reduce tip temperature at the same time. Say, between 320 an 350C max. And you'll want a good, temperature controlled soldering station. Professionally and for hobby use, I use JBC. By a miles distance the best you can get. You don't believe it until you have worked with it and have compared it side by side with eg Weller or Pace. Yes, they are expensive. But you can buy a JBC clone, eg the GVM T245 on Aliexpress and use with genuine JBC tips. Aliexpress tips often break down quickly and do not solder as well as genuine JBC. Last tip: scratch off the oxide layer from the solder joints on the capsule before soldering. The thin oxide layer acts as a heat barrier. Good luck! Jan L
underwood All Messages By This Member #35758 There are big differences in lead free solders. There are some that can be soldered as easily as solder with lead and with some others your solder joints look like you soldered for the?first time. There are also some special low melting point solders for temperature sensitive solder joints. Here with a melting point of 118°C: . Not sure how it contacts pre-tinned pads.? Am Mi., 8. Nov. 2023 um 12:15?Uhr schrieb jack <jackreynolds100@...>: toggle quoted message Show quoted text Lead solder has been outlawed for a while now as it’s poisonous when equipment is discarded and leaches into the ground. It generally has a lower melting point and it’s also more stable and a bit softer, which is why I prefer it, but ROHS laws in Europe prohibit its use in new products.? Kester is very good but be prepared to pay more than you expect for decent solder. It’s well worth it and reduces time in contact and heating of the component.? Some capsules come with pre-tinned pads, some don’t.? I use 0.7mm 60/40 2.2% flux, but there are probably many other options that would work equally well.? J On 8 Nov 2023, at 09:42, Joe Todd <jjthaden@...> wrote: ?Hi, original poster here. Big thanks to Jan, Jack and others for addressing my capsule heat-damage concerns. I can approach my "sky-mic" project with greater confidence. Remaining questions:? Solder: By "leaded", is it meant "low-temperature"? Different lead percentages? Best solder wire gauge? Resin-core? Acid-core? Solid? Brand/Model recommebdations? Capsule pads/solder joints: Do most or all capsules espoused on MicBuilders come with pretinned pads? Will Jan's "scratch off the oxide" preliminary step resolve a mentioned incompatibility with low-temperature (leaded?) solder? Or is it just that tip temperature must be high enough to also soften the pretinning? Thanks again! -John T ?sky-facing bird-call mic projecteer On Wed, Nov 8, 2023 at 12:46 AM, j.postma8@... <j.postma8@...> wrote: Something to secure your capsule while soldering certainly helps. For small parts, I often use self-closing tweezers. But that may not work too well for round capsules. But maybe it works when grabbing the capsule between front and back side? Leaded solder should als work, provide you also reduce tip temperature at the same time. Say, between 320 an 350C max. And you'll want a good, temperature controlled soldering station. Professionally and for hobby use, I use JBC. By a miles distance the best you can get. You don't believe it until you have worked with it and have compared it side by side with eg Weller or Pace. Yes, they are expensive. But you can buy a JBC clone, eg the GVM T245 on Aliexpress and use with genuine JBC tips. Aliexpress tips often break down quickly and do not solder as well as genuine JBC. Last tip: scratch off the oxide layer from the solder joints on the capsule before soldering. The thin oxide layer acts as a heat barrier. Good luck! Jan L
Nick Roast All Messages By This Member #35759 This is the jig and heatsink we use for soldering 10 mm capsules.? The loose piece is held in place with elastic bands to keep the capsules steady and in good thermal contact with the sink.? We have been using lead free solder for many years, its not as shiny and can often look like a dry joint, but it has been problem free. This short video shows the jig in use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxNIzOmQljE Nick - from micbooster.com
pmfalcman All Messages By This Member #35761 ?I just use an radiator from an old computer. Drilled a 10 mm hole and it works just fine. Not as awesome as Nick's jig but surely helps. At least is good as a capsule holder. ?

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