开云体育

Hello group, It boots normally, then it says RA motor stalled, or DEC motor stalled. Then the DEC axis slowly rotates by itself, no buttons pressed. Hand controlls have no effect. Time & date set correctly. Anyone know how too fix it? Thanks John

As the title says. What's the best way to determine P.E.?

Looking to change my setups over to UTC time. Now do I just change over the time zone in the hand controller and the Gemini settings to 00? This made the current time listed as the UTC time. Also, Civil time is now displayed as UTC time. Is this the correct way to set it up? The GPS updated my site, and will it do the same to the time? I assume this is how it gets the UTC time to sync with location and let the Gemini unit work correctly? Thanks, David Malanick

Hi guys, This is my first post on this group. Sorry for my english, I’m not a native speaker. I have an old GM8 mount which I want to improve. The actual periodic error is about 54 arc/sec peak to peak. I have the steel worms and two block design. I’ve attached a picture with PECPrep graphs. My questions are: 1) Can I improve the actual error using the steel worm? 2) If I change to a high precision worm from Losmandy what would be the best PE I can get? How much better than now? To know what to expect. 3) Can I find the mount’s year of production by viewing the serial number? The serial number is HGM299805084. What I want to do next to gain some improvements: 1) Change the bearings with new ABEC 5 bearings. 2) Spring washer on one bearing to tension the worm between the blocks. 3) Play with the mesh to find the hot spot. What I did till now: 1) Clean and grease the mount. 2) I found that at transport the blocks that press the needle bearing and hold the RA axis were misaligned. So I pressed them together to a true. I’ve read about this here on the group. 3) Make a version of OPW. You can see it in the attached picture. I’ve searched a lot on internet about performances of GM8 but very few details I found. So you are my last chance J Any suggestions are welcome. Catalin

Can anyone help with my Meridian flip. My G-11/gemini 2 limits are just past 90 degrees, I have a Sky Watcher 190mm Mak/Newt, so I can not go much past 90 degrees without hitting the mount. So I have tried increasing my time to flp on the ASIAir Pro. A couple of nights ago I increased the flip command on my ASIAir to stop imaging 10 minutes before and not flip until 10 minutes after meridian, which I hate losing that much imaging time, but thought it was worth a try. However, the G-11 still failed to flip. The target was M101 (April 4th & 6th, from just south of Ft. Worth, Tx) which reached meridian around 70 degrees. I did notice on this flip attempt and the meridian flip attempt from a previous night, upon ASIAir issuing the command, the mount started its first move toward the mount, not away from the mount. Of course this quickly hit the Gemini 2 limits and the mount stop. I then used the ASIAir mount command to return home and once again the first move was toward the mount. So I then use the Gemini 2 park command, which sent the mount toward the home position but it stopped way off. I then hit the ASIAir Pro go to home command and the mount return home. I could then send the mount to the target using the ASIAir Pro. But this exact scenario happened 2 nights straight. On a previous image session the week before I noticed I had to hit the ASIAir home button twice to get the mount to return home. When I hit the home command the first time, the mount went no where near home; however, when I hit the home button a second time the mount returned home. Is anyone else having these weird issues with using their G-11 with an ASIAir pro or plus? To end this post on a position note, I did hear about an excellent way to fix the slow PA when using an ASIAir Pro. Extremely simple, just change the Move speed on the Gemini 2 settings from 50 to 500 or more. Also, lately my tracking has been excellent, now my one issue is figuring out the Meridian flip. Thanks, Jim....

Hi, I'm André and new to this group. I've got my G11G for about two years now. It's the one with the tucked in motors and the spring loaded worm block. Some nights ago it developed some major backlash in declication. After examining the situation, I'm partially blaming the misalignment of the spur gear, that sits on the oldham coupler. While in there, I decided to regrease all the parts and noticed that the bearing on the large dec worm wheel doesn't sound quite healthy to me. But I'm not an expert in mechanics, so it might be normal and I leave it up to you guys :-) Here's a short video: https://youtube.com/shorts/SzHZa--dV6w It actually sounds worse in the video. It doesn't feel sticky or rough. What do you suggest? Also do you have any suggestions regarding the grease that goes on the worm wheel? Cheers André

Hi all, from the imperially challenged other side of the world (South Africa). I have an AZ8 acquired from local astronomer enthusiast Douglas Bullis https://issuu.com/douglasbullis with a beloved Intes Wirth (APM Markus Ludes) MN86 purchase. I am missing the RA clutch needle thrust bearing, which I assume is the same as the GM8 and trying to source one locally before importing it from the USA. Can anyone suggest proper sizing on this bearing? Presumably, thickness will not be a concern. The Losmandy website states one 2.100" diameter needle thrust bearing, one 2.000" diameter needle thrust bearing. I am hoping to convert the AZ8 to equatorial by making a wedge where the bottom flange can bolt onto. This seems like a simple, non-destructive modification unless I'm missing something. Will also need to fashion some kind of counterweight system... Unless someone would like to trade for something equatorial with 30lb payload capacity? I do not see a serial number. I have the flat machined section for encoders and a polarscope hole with brass gears and worms. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated. I tried to join the Losmandy hackers group, but it seems they are not taking any more members.

So, is not getting a call back from Losmandy a normal thing? I've left a voice mail and used their contact form. Wouldn't mind spending some money but I'm a little nervous about sending money out in the blind if they've closed up shop or something. I would really rather talk to a live human being. Mike

I have a question about slew rate in TPPA. I have a Losmandy G11T using the updated Gemini 2 driver. When using TPPA the scope slews to the first position at what think is a normal rate. However when slewing to the second and third position the slew rate is so slow it often takes 10 minutes to move to the next position. Anyone know if there is a TPPA or Gemini setting I should change. Thanks, Frank

All, Sorry for the barrage of newby questions, I am working my way through the manual to get to grips with all the features on the G11, my first motorised eq, tonight's topic of interest is Encoders. If I understand there are 2 types of Encoders, the type that is incorporated into the motor, this type uses pins on the motor din plugs to connect, and the other type that fits to the RA and DEC shafts and connects to Gemini via the encoder RJ45 socket..Please correct my if I am wrong! I understand what they do so my questions are: Except for manual guiding when attached to a computer running Stellarium were the benefit is obvious, are they useful for any other purpose and worth the money? What is the best type, motor or shaft? Thank you in advance..

I'm considering getting what appears to be the relatively new AZ8 with the Gemini 2 go to system with servo motors: https://store-losmandy-com.3dcartstores.com/AZ8-Config_p_255.html I am a visual observer with no interest at this point in imaging. And I have never used a Losmandy mount. I'm wondering if anyone using this new version of the AZ8 with go to and tracking could share their experience and opinions about this mount? TIA for any insight on this mount. Clear and steady skies, Russ

Hi, While installing Gem2 Retro-fit kit to my G-11, I lost one of the grub/set screws that hold the worm gear cover in place. Could someone tell me what size they are so I can go to the hardware for a replacement? Thanks, Kevin

Hello, Last night, I encountered a recurring problem. I am attaching the log file. The Losmandy G11 Gemini 1 LV4 mount disconnects randomly from NINA. I have tried everything I could find in the group, but I haven't been able to fix the issue. The first problem occurred after 8:18 PM; you can find it in the logs at 20:19:46.975 Exception. Thank you in advance for your help. Cyril

My G11 is my "backyard" setup with a Celestron 9.25" Edge HD OTA. I have limited visibility due to proximity to my garage and tall trees nearby. When I ask for "help making a model" I can't see many of the bright stars, so I have never been able to use the "go-to" features at all since there is no way for me to tell the mount where it's pointing. Is there a workaround?

I belong to an astronomy club, and we have a Losmandy Titan mount, running L6.01 Gemini 2. I connect the mount via Ethernet to my laptop PC. One of our club members would like to do some plate solving with the mount, by connecting his ASI Air device to the mount via Ethernet, and accessing the ASI Air app using his Android tablet. He's been to the Gemini 2 driver download page, and he's having problem downloading/installing the driver onto his Android tablet. Does anyone know if an Android driver exists to make these wireless people happy?

My Gemini II Hand Control always shows Jupiter and Saturn as "pre-selected" and won't let me select them. Who wants to view them anyway? LOL The other planets appear fine. Anyone know a fix?