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Mount Clutch Tensions


 

The orthogonality of axes and parallelism of clutch surfaces . ( Michael Siniscalchi? ).

My guess the clutch has a purposes there must be some tension but not to much to stop slip if axes clash...as I have done more than once. Oh I don't have a CKS knobs...but I noticed my std knobs galling between the different surfaces.? This made it really difficult to adj clutch tension, some zinc anti size fixed this.

FWIW

Brendan



 

Yes Brendan, Al on Al will gall quickly given half a chance (even if it's hard anodized). I also recall burnishing the threads and deburing the thread holes on the ID when I got a set of knobed knobs (CKS). That was another example of less than ideal workmanship, but it's ok, I live to wrench! And I am lucky, working in aerospace most of my life I have access to lots of fun lubricants and such

There is definitely a lot of feel and awareness involved it clutch tightening


 






> The orthogonality of axes and parallelism of clutch surfaces . ( Michael Siniscalchi? ).



BTW, FWIW, this is definitely not the approach I would take to remedy the noted problem !??

-Jeff


 

I bead blasted the clutch surfaces of one of my G11's.? It did indeed grip well, at the expense of more difficult balancing.? The mount was used for astrophotography (30 minute subs).? The clutch held firm with little pressure but because of the increased friction of the clutch (even released) it was more difficult to balance.??

With regard to the axis binding when the clutch is tightened, Here's what I'd do and what I will do if I ever buy another used Losmandy mount.

Forget my posts about checking the gap between the bearings and the housing.? If you have binding or suspect some alignment issues, try this:

1.? Remove the motor, worm and shaft and the axis from the mount
2.? Place the bottom of the axis on a wood block
3.? Place a wood block on top of the axis
4.? Insure everything is sitting perpendicular and give a sharp rap to the top wood block (a dead blow hammer would be ideal, but I used a ball peen hammer).? If you have a press, you can do this in a press.?
5.? Reassemble the mount and re-check for binding.

This will help insure that you're, at least, starting with an orthogonal system.? This was the process I used to correct my alignment issues on my GM8 (after 2 unproductive trips to Losmandy for this problem).? Losmandy mounts are a very good value and are well built. Used Losmandy mounts are an even better value.? However, If you're looking for perfection in a mount, get an Astro-Physics.? My Mach 1 worked flawlessly from day 1.??

my 2 cents...

Eric


 

I hear ya on the AP mount Eric. but lucky for me ($) I'm a natural born tinkerer - Ha! So Losmandy is perfect.

Regarding the hammer, it helped in my case but I still have a .003" out of parallel condition that I can only attribute to machining error. Not a show stopper but less than ideal for sure


Jeff


 


I think anybody can measure the clutch bearing clearance in the mount using Plastigauge and It should be close enough to know if there is a problem or not. Using Plastigage has the advantage of showing you the clearance setup actually in the complete system. Using v-blocks and checking the surface with a dial indicator works for half the problem only but can tell you if the issue is in the mount body, the axle and plate or both when combined with the plastigauge.?
?
Chip?
??


 

Even I get tired of beating a dead horse.
Good Luck

Jeff


 


But my arm isn't tired yet.?

Chip