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California grease
I have a 2 year old GM-8 and was out Saturday night as the temps got close to freezing. I think the grease in the mount got close to freezing too. The mount started getting real quiet -- not silent, but quiet -- and the 15-second exposure stars started looking a little like comets. It's a 492 system. I have the encoders with the Nexus system and it kept dropping out and saying the telescope was not responding. I thought it was a cold Nexus or iPad, but now I think it was its way of saying the telescope wasn't moving or at least keeping up. Is that expected from the factory grease? The axes were for sure stiffer when I was taking everything down than it was when I put it together earlier in the evening. Not hard, but more firm. Thanks! Bob |
Hi Bob,
I have had two issues with changes in air temps and tracking error, lubricant as you mention and worm gear mesh. Whatever lubricant is used by Losmandy seems to get stiffer as it gets colder making the mount tracking error level increase as temps fall. As the grease get hotter it gets thinner and over time separates making a runny mess and over time drying out the lubricant making the mount stiffer over time even when warm. The lube issue is an easy fix, just go online and buy a tub/tube of Synco's food grade pure synthetic SuperLube Multi Purpose Grease with PTFE, NOT the Silicone stuff. SuperLube is a true pure synthetic - this stuff stays put very well in the heat with minimal migration and minimal separation of the base. But more importantly IMO for telescope mount applications - it stays very soft even when you are frozen solid, the coldest I have stayed out is about 20F and the mount was tracking perfectly. As you no doubt have experienced in SoCal we can easily experience 50F-70F swings in air temp in the high desert areas where it is darkest. This stuff works perfectly and if you buy it in a tub it's even reasonably priced. Here is an Amazon link:.? ? The other worm gear mesh issue is mechanical binding as the mount gets colder the clearances shrink significantly causing drag and eventually binding and stalling mount movement. So if you set your worm mesh up to have minimal backlash at the tightest point with the large worm wheel in your nice warm house then go outside and the air temperature drops it will get tighter. The only way to avoid this is to set your worm gear mesh in the cold and let the backlash be larger when hot and not in use. My own experiences has been that the mount will guide and track much better with the worm set slightly loose when cold rather than set up perfectly. In other words some very small backlash is needed or tracking suffers.? Chip ? |
Hi Chip!
I've been reading along about the gear mesh vs temp discussion. Interesting. My gears are barely meshed (I really have to adjust things at some point -- just haven't gotten around to messing with it since I bought it), so I'm thinking this is the grease. The temps were close to 60 then to 30F kinda quickly. Those Hollywood types...their grease probably comes with a free pair of Baggies and flip-flops. :) Grey tube SuperLube to the rescue! I guess I'll tighten up stuff then too. Thanks! Bob |
Hi Bob,
If possible you really want to use solvent to wash out the old grease and contaminants, blow out the bearings with plenty of compressed air BUT be ready for a lot of black lube to come out in the airstream as it will stain any fabric it hits and will not be coming out anytime soon. I think there was a molybdenum additive to some greases Losmandy uses/used. Additionally make sure the solvent is cleared and/or evaporated before applying the fresh lube. Do not over do the lube, people treat mount bearings like they are on a trailer rolling down the freeway at 65MPH. If the surfaces are clean all it takes is thin coat on all working surfaces and call it a day. Once reassembled rotate the axes to distribute the grease and you are GTG.? I can't say if the grease is coming with Baggies and flipflops or not but it's awful stuff in my book. Cheers/Chip |
Bob,
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With the 492 system, don't forget about the grease in the motor gearbox. That grease can cause a slowdown much more than the grease on the worm. Don ----- Original Message -----
From: "robert@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...> To: <Losmandy_users@...> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 2:36 PM Subject: [Losmandy_users] California grease I have a 2 year old GM-8 and was out Saturday night as the temps got close to freezing. I think the grease in the mount got close to freezing too. The mount started getting real quiet -- not silent, but quiet -- and the 15-second exposure stars started looking a little like comets. It's a 492 system. I have the encoders with the Nexus system and it kept dropping out and saying the telescope was not responding. I thought it was a cold Nexus or iPad, but now I think it was its way of saying the telescope wasn't moving or at least keeping up. Is that expected from the factory grease? The axes were for sure stiffer when I was taking everything down than it was when I put it together earlier in the evening. Not hard, but more firm. |
Bob,
If your mount is only two years old the gearbox lube is probably fine because the gears and lube are all sealed up in a nice closed clean environment that operates at a very low load and speed. The gearboxes can add very little drag to the stepper motors and there is no good way to re-lube them without drilling out the plastic or probably in your case, steel rivets to disassemble them and re-lube. You can check the gearboxes once disassembled by turning the gearbox output shaft by hand, there is always going to be some drag and probably a spot where it wants to slow down a little bit but that additional resistance is unimportant as you are working the gearbox backwards and the stepper does not see this resistance. Remember that the gear box is a 25:1 ratio so as long as there is no gritty feeling while turning you are good to go.? One other thing, I'm assuming your GM8 came equipped with the Losmandy HP worms installed but that you do not have a one piece worm block installed on the RA axis. The reason I say this is that either of the OPW designs improves or resolves at least four of the five drivetrain design issues which significantly affect the tracking error numbers of Losmandy G11 and GM8 mount drivetrains.? #1 Worm bearing alignment #2 Worm bearing preload? #3 Worm mesh adjustability? #4 Alignment of gearbox output shaft axis to worm gear axis #5 Gear mesh adjustment? Hope this helps. Chip |
Chip,
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Bob is running the 492 drive with the stepper motors. They have a 150:1 gearbox. Don ----- Original Message -----
From: "chiplouie@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...> To: <Losmandy_users@...> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 3:11 PM Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: California grease Bob, |
Dooh! I knew that!? But this just makes my comments even more relevant as the integrated stepper/gearbox is even better sealed than the servomotor gearboxes. Additionally with the higher gear reduction at 150:1 this reduces the changes of the gearbox being an issue even more given the slower speed. These are not stressed and should last almost forever barring severe environmental or physical damage.? There is one thing Bob did not mention (or I missed) was the power source Bob used when the problem was displayed. If Bob was not using a power supply plugged into utility power and Bob used a conventional lead-acid battery that was not at full voltage air temperature may have had an impact on the #492 drive system.? As much as I enjoyed using my Losmandy G11 and GM8 in push-to mode with their #492 drives even if well balanced I did not feel there was much headroom left in the digital drive system. Used visually the #492 never missed a beat but obviously the my leaky brain is less picky than a camera collecting data.? Thoughts? Chip ? ?? |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýRegarding the power source: The power input to the 492 goes directly to a 5V linear regulator, so any input voltage over about 7V is just wasting power ¡ª it won¡¯t benefit the motors.???-Les On Dec 14, 2017, at 10:09 AM, chiplouie@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
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Hi all!
Yup. It's just a 492 system. I replaced the plastic covers with the metal ones at the beginning of 2016 and was thinking, boy, I don't remember those gearboxes being that complicated, Mr. Chip. :) The batteries I use are LiFePO4's, so around freezing shouldn't be a problem. I'm pretty sure it was stiffer than normal that one night when I was packing up. Which, come to think of it, wouldn't have anything to do with the gearboxes, but it will all get cycled through the freezer and checked out. Still haven't gotten to tear it down. I keep using it in the early evenings! Should get to do it over the weekend. Bob |
Chip,
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If the grease gets to cold, it will slow down the stepper input into the gearbox. Easy to skip steps. The grease (used loosely) in the older Hurst gearboxes was more like a thin glue. Don ----- Original Message -----
From: "chiplouie@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...> To: <Losmandy_users@...> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2017 1:09 PM Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: California grease
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¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe motors (SAIA or Hurst) operate on 12V ¨C the regulator is just there for the digital stuff. The Darlington transistor array (the 18 pin DIP at the top of the PCB) is connected directly to the 12V line, before the regulator. ? The electronics of the 492 are pretty simple (although if they re-engineered it with modern parts it would only have two chips). So unless the unit is really old (mine has the 2006 sticker on it) I wouldn¡¯t worry about that. In a few more decades maybe you¡¯ll have to worry about capacitors. ? The grease in the motors should be good to much colder temperatures than you¡¯ll ever see in CA ¨C I¡¯ve used my 492 system in Northern Illinois for years and we get down to -20F from time to time. That is -29C. Then the operator is the problem, not the mount. ? And at half-stepping I have never seen a problem even with lunar imaging at 2800mm+ focal length and 2 micron pixels. ? The Hurst (now NiDec) motor specs say -10 to +40C (approximate) and don¡¯t forget that the motors generate their own heat, although only ? watt per the label. Not a lot of power but it is in a confined space. Starting from a cold soak is another matter but, again, I¡¯ve never seen a problem in practice. Hurst, after all, is in Northern Indiana, not California or Shanghai. We¡¯re not sunbathers around here. ? So I wouldn¡¯t go messing with the motors until after everything else (mesh of gears, bearing and axel grease, connectors, batteries) were checked out. Opening up the cases is a bad idea to my mind. If I did that I¡¯d be ready to buy new ones in case I screwed it up. ? As to batteries, well, the Lithium composite cited is not recommended for storage below freezing. Operating (where it generates its own heat) they are rated down to -4C (not as good as the motors for what that is worth ¨C you never know how much engineering margin is being applied) and will lose 20 to 40 percent of the capacity as a function of on the discharge history at -20C depending on whose research you read. ? So I¡¯m sticking with lead acid for now, personally. ? But I¡¯d look at the mesh and mount grease plus connectors (ugh, who decided modular phone jacks were a good idea for field equipment?)? and ?cables, then the batteries. The motors? The last thing I¡¯d look at. Could be, of course. ? Happy Holidays, ? Mark Christensen |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýTwo last comments regarding power sources: We get dew around here (sometimes lots of it), so I avoid AC power adapters. Plus after cold soaking at -10C or lower I have seen them refuse to kickstart (the switcher circuit uses the inrush current through a capacitor to start operations so most consumer power adapters are not rated below -5 or -10C). So using an AC adapter isn¡¯t a magic cure (and is not very safe ¨C look at the little house icon on them, that means interior use only). ? I¡¯ve seen it so cold that my guider electronics won¡¯t function even if the laptop does. Once it got so cold my CGEM wouldn¡¯t work either (even with a heater on the hand controller). A lot of the electronics in our gear uses commercial graded, not industrial, parts. The difference is pennies but the developers usually don¡¯t even think about it. Ditto for many cell phones by the way. ? The 492 drive, of course, ¡®sips¡¯ power: ? watt for two motors is an average draw of 80 ma (although it probably is easily double that). At even 1000mah capacity (which is about the capacity of good NiMH cells at -20C) that works out to 6 to 12 hours. Alkaline (one time) batteries do even better at low temperature. ? In a pinch I¡¯ve run mine for hours off of 8 AA cells. ? Higher speed (like GOTO) stepper systems are a totally different story, often consuming amps even when tracking unless the newer generation of driver chips are used . Servo motor systems are in the middle in terms of power consumption. ? I need bigger batteries for the laptop and the cooled camera, of course. ? Regards, ? Mark Christensen ? From: Mark Christensen [mailto:MJCW500@...]
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2017 4:43 AM To: 'Losmandy_users@...' Subject: Re: California grease ? The motors (SAIA or Hurst) operate on 12V ¨C the regulator is just there for the digital stuff. The Darlington transistor array (the 18 pin DIP at the top of the PCB) is connected directly to the 12V line, before the regulator. ? The electronics of the 492 are pretty simple (although if they re-engineered it with modern parts it would only have two chips). So unless the unit is really old (mine has the 2006 sticker on it) I wouldn¡¯t worry about that. In a few more decades maybe you¡¯ll have to worry about capacitors. ? The grease in the motors should be good to much colder temperatures than you¡¯ll ever see in CA ¨C I¡¯ve used my 492 system in Northern Illinois for years and we get down to -20F from time to time. That is -29C. Then the operator is the problem, not the mount. ? And at half-stepping I have never seen a problem even with lunar imaging at 2800mm+ focal length and 2 micron pixels. ? The Hurst (now NiDec) motor specs say -10 to +40C (approximate) and don¡¯t forget that the motors generate their own heat, although only ? watt per the label. Not a lot of power but it is in a confined space. Starting from a cold soak is another matter but, again, I¡¯ve never seen a problem in practice. Hurst, after all, is in Northern Indiana, not California or Shanghai. We¡¯re not sunbathers around here. ? So I wouldn¡¯t go messing with the motors until after everything else (mesh of gears, bearing and axel grease, connectors, batteries) were checked out. Opening up the cases is a bad idea to my mind. If I did that I¡¯d be ready to buy new ones in case I screwed it up. ? As to batteries, well, the Lithium composite cited is not recommended for storage below freezing. Operating (where it generates its own heat) they are rated down to -4C (not as good as the motors for what that is worth ¨C you never know how much engineering margin is being applied) and will lose 20 to 40 percent of the capacity as a function of on the discharge history at -20C depending on whose research you read. ? So I¡¯m sticking with lead acid for now, personally. ? But I¡¯d look at the mesh and mount grease plus connectors (ugh, who decided modular phone jacks were a good idea for field equipment?)? and ?cables, then the batteries. The motors? The last thing I¡¯d look at. Could be, of course. ? Happy Holidays, ? Mark Christensen |
I remain pretty confident that all of the mount's major bearings should be solvent cleaned and lubricated with a pure synthetic grease like SuperLube which I mention so often. I also suggest leaving the mount outside on a typical cold night and adjust the worm gear backlash with the mount at ambient air temp. For best tracking these mounts prefer a very small amount of backlash at the tightest point on the wormwheel at ambient temp. which is difficult to set well without a spring or magnetic system to preload the worm gear. This is why I suggested installing one of the new OPW on the RA axis which makes setting worm gear backlash much easier and faster. Been here and done it which is how I figured this out.? ? Chip? |
Well, it was the original grease...as far as I can tell. My GM-8 has always been easy to move, but it got stiff and started having trouble tracking when the temp got close to freezing a few weeks back. Today I put it in the freezer and let it chill down. The RA got stiffer, but the Dec was worse. I don't remember it being this bad before. It's only two years old. Anyway, tore it down, cleaned it out and Super Lube'ed it up. The main sticking points were the bearings in the tubes. Put it back in the freezer afterwards and you couldn't even tell it had been in there. Big difference. Now I feel sorry for the motors having to push against that drag all these cool times. Adjusted up the worms too. It was pretty sloppy before. Didn't do anything with the motors or gearboxes. We'll see how things go with just the re-grease. As soon as these high thin clouds go away I'll get to try it out...someday. Thanks all! Bob
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Thanks for that nicely done experiment and report on temperature effects.? Now I know the likely cause of my own CG11 viscous motion in both axes.?? As you say, why strain the motors needlessly. I think that the oils in the greases either dry up or flow out (like into those nice clutch disk surfaces), leaving the gummy residue behind. Next week, I'll be off to clean and relube the system.?? But first I have to find that ziplock bag of Superlube that Chip gifted to me last summer! Happy new year, all... Michael On Wed, Dec 27, 2017 at 10:12 PM, robert@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
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With the observatory below -20C, and plenty of wind to make it even better, I was wondering... I have electric heat tapes on my water pipes to keep the lines just above freezing. Has anyone wrapped their mount in this sort of tech to offset the stiffening of the lube? This would only work for AC supplied viewing... although it is a lot like the dew heaters that refractor folk obsess about.
Just curious... greg latiak avalon observatory |