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Hi,

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My aging hands are having problems loosening the lock screws (mainly azimuth) during polar alignments so I was interested to know if anyone has used knobs that are easier to grip. My ones are the round topped ones.

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Thanks,

Ken

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Ken, I know what you mean. ?Remember the alt doesn’t need to be super tight, it tends to cause a twist motion in alignment when doing up. ? But adjustable handles sometimes called “”?? You can get these with a so you can release the handle and re-index it (more its position) without effecting the threaded bolt.

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Thus you can easily undo it /do it up and put the handle in a position that doesn't interfere.?? Obviously when putting them on you will need this index feature to screw it in as the handle may be to long to swing under and strike the Alt/Az plate.

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The Size you need (of thread) is: 3/8" x 16 tpi x 1.25inches (I think).?? I'm pretty sure the 3/8x16tpi is correct but a little hazy on length?.?? My Guess is you can get a 1" threaded handle for each side (Adjustable handle) and if too long cut some off it's length.?? Buy a stainless steel adjustable handle (for the threaded insert) the handle can be plastic but better to get an all metal handle.??

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Best place to buy...I don't know I'm in Australia but i guess or should be available in USA from many places, easily as its imperial thread (and why won't the US go to metric?....."a time immortal argument")!?? I saw this gent (I don't know him just he had a site for a few years...see pic attached) use a kipp handle years back (see pic) the only draw back is its a possible snag for cables!?? YMMV.

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Good luck...post back a pic when you get some...they will help a lot.

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Brendan

Just to help a little (in the spirit of the season) .. from McMaster Carr

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3/8" x 16 TPI x 1.25 thread length stainless steel threaded, adjustable indexed, "6320K26" note this is nylon handle (note not metal handle like i said).?? Either black or yellow (you choose) but cheap...price $14.89 ea USD plus shipping??? You need qty 2

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Nylon Plastic Adjustable Handle, 3/8"-16 Thread Size x 1-1/4" Long 303 Stainless Steel Stud, 1-3/4" Projection

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Oh I measured the thread length as I.2inches so maybe put a stainless steel washer under the handle to spread the load and ensure it doesn't clash with the other side.?? So do get the 1.25" thread length

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Cheers

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Brendan

On Fri, Jan 10, 2025 at 01:41 PM, Oberon510 wrote:

knobs that are easier to grip

Thanks Brendan and Doug - my order is in.

Doug,

That sounds like a great idea, more torque, and I also guess less alignment shift when tightening.? Are they ball bearing or thrust bearings?

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Jerry

On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 01:19 PM, Gerard wrote:

Are they ball bearing or thrust bearings?

The 3/8 thrust bearings were thin pin bearings.? Given the use, I purchased mine off amazon (example: ).? I use them on the G11G head and HDT leg knobs.

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Lowering the nut friction only increases the clamping force at the same applied nut torque. In practice this accessory only makes it easier to hand operate the knobs.?

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Doug

Those needle bearings are a very good thing. And a drop of oil or grease on the threads as well.

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I build custom machinery of all sorts and whenever possible I avoid short fasteners. The object of a screw fastener is to clamp things together. I don't really care what the torque numbers might be as long as I get the clamping forces needed. As soon as you get away from cheap junk like internal combustion engines for the masses, the idea of a torque wench goes out the window. We use either hardened and lubricated washers or, if practical from a corrosion point of view, those needle thrust bearings. Friction is your enemy. Of course you can go to far in this direction and have the nut back off. Seldom an issue but possible.

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The procedure is to take the slack out of the system and then turn the nut a specified angle based on a simple incline calculation. What we want is a certain tension on the bolt. Or to put it another way, a specified amount of stretch. This is not 'rocket science' but just understanding the relationship between stress and strain. Once you get used to the idea that everything, and I mean everything, is elastic, it's easy to to figure out how to convert an angular rotation of a nut into tension on a fastener. If the bolt is short, the desired tension comes up really fast. Use a longer bolt or a finer pitch thread. Perhaps swap out that 3/8" x 16 bolt for a 3/8" x 24.

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Before you all start tuning up, I know that this is a classic case of 'Garbage in. Garbage out.' That is to say, how do you know what tension is desired on the fastener? As the preacher said to the townspeople in the movie Blazing Saddles, "You're on your own!".

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Mike Colyar

Lopez Island, Washington State

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(Wintering in Baja where it's B1/B2 skies every moonless night. Eat your heart out.)

On Sun, Jan 12, 2025 at 07:40 AM, Mike Colyar wrote:

Those needle bearings are a very good thing. And a drop of oil or grease on the threads as well.

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I build custom machinery of all sorts and whenever possible I avoid short fasteners. The object of a screw fastener is to clamp things together. I don't really care what the torque numbers might be as long as I get the clamping forces needed. As soon as you get away from cheap junk like internal combustion engines for the masses, the idea of a torque wench goes out the window. We use either hardened and lubricated washers or, if practical from a corrosion point of view, those needle thrust bearings. Friction is your enemy. Of course you can go to far in this direction and have the nut back off. Seldom an issue but possible.

?

The procedure is to take the slack out of the system and then turn the nut a specified angle based on a simple incline calculation. What we want is a certain tension on the bolt. Or to put it another way, a specified amount of stretch. This is not 'rocket science' but just understanding the relationship between stress and strain. Once you get used to the idea that everything, and I mean everything, is elastic, it's easy to to figure out how to convert an angular rotation of a nut into tension on a fastener. If the bolt is short, the desired tension comes up really fast. Use a longer bolt or a finer pitch thread. Perhaps swap out that 3/8" x 16 bolt for a 3/8" x 24.

?

Before you all start tuning up, I know that this is a classic case of 'Garbage in. Garbage out.' That is to say, how do you know what tension is desired on the fastener? As the preacher said to the townspeople in the movie Blazing Saddles, "You're on your own!".

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Mike Colyar

Lopez Island, Washington State

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(Wintering in Baja where it's B1/B2 skies every moonless night. Eat your heart out.)

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Unless the mount base is drilled and new threads cut the pitch is not going to change.? There is plenty of mass and friction to hold the mount stable on the mount base with modest force.

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People here somehow always think that more force is always better which is completely incorrect.? I see it every day, for example people posting how their clutches are slipping and they need more torque on the clutch plates.? Think about it, why would the clutches slip if the clutches are clean and dry?? Because they are not clean and dry? Because the saddle payload is not properly balanced on both axis???

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