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76sec error on new OPW-11


 

I purchased the one piece worm from Losmandy hoping to get rid of some of my errors.
So far my 76 sec is worse than ever, and my PHD2 rms got worse.
I snugged the bolts for the worm block to worm housing first, then slightly snugged the bolts to the mount.
I then slightly loosened the worm block bolts to allow them to center with the worm, and then tightened them.
I've tried twice now and still get the same result
There's no noticeable backlash and it seems to run smooth, but obviously something is wrong.
The immediate thought is the worm blocks are "twisting" somehow and putting side load on the bearing.
Since I got almost the same results after R&R the assembly I wonder if the housing was drilled/bored off center.
Appreciate any help and input.

Thanks
Jim P


 

Jim can you share your guidelogs or PE analysis data files?


On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 3:31 PM Jim Pollard <jlpollard10@...> wrote:

I purchased the one piece worm from Losmandy hoping to get rid of some of my errors.
So far my 76 sec is worse than ever, and my PHD2 rms got worse.
I snugged the bolts for the worm block to worm housing first, then slightly snugged the bolts to the mount.
I then slightly loosened the worm block bolts to allow them to center with the worm, and then tightened them.
I've tried twice now and still get the same result
There's no noticeable backlash and it seems to run smooth, but obviously something is wrong.
The immediate thought is the worm blocks are "twisting" somehow and putting side load on the bearing.
Since I got almost the same results after R&R the assembly I wonder if the housing was drilled/bored off center.
Appreciate any help and input.

Thanks
Jim P



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


 

I suspect that you've got things too tight so there is binding going on. i suggest you loosen the connections at the coupler, the gear reduction mounts, housing and the bearing blocks so there is some play everywhere. You could do this work with the DEC axis pulled but then there is no pressure on the worm gear to keep it flat against it's thrust bearing. I suggest you leave the DEC axis installed but adjust the lattitude adjuster so that DEC axis is as horizontal as possible. Adjust the tripod legs to help that too. Run with the clutch relaxed so you can run the RA? motor without the dec axis moving. Put something in the way in case the DEC axis grabs and starts turning unexpectedly. Be safe.? Put an index mark on the worm gear and worm so you can visualize the rotation. You may notice that the worm gear may show some smoothing or wear on some section. Since this is a new worm, you may want to rotate the worm gear so the 'used' side is away from the worm. This will give your 2 fresh unworn surfaces to work with and avoids any uneven wear on the worm gear from the stainless steel worm.?
Shift the worm into position against the worm gear so that it's centered and fully meshed. Snug down the bearing blocks gently and then allow the worm to ease off being fully meshed hard against the worm gear so it's at about 75% snug down the housing being careful to not put any pressure or twist on the bearing blocks. The bearing blocks must be square to the worm on all three axis. Relax the clutch. You should be able to turn the worm with your fingers and feel easy smooth free movement. When adjusting things here you never want anything in the gear train to feel tight or snug. When you snug up the mounting screws and standoffs go slow. Sneak up on 'snug' and tighten things evenly checking each time for any change in the free movement of parts. It's easy to have a bearing block twist or tilt and cause the bearing to bind. Be gentle, go slow and work evenly. tighten the housing screws being careful to keep everything aligned. The bearing blocks should still be able to move around a bit so that nothing binds. Check as your go and relax bolts if needed to get everything in it's place and just snug. Always err on the side of too much play and too loose. We can correct that later.

The last two things to adjust are the transfer gears/gear reduction and the coupler.? I secure the transfer/reduction gear housing first being sure that the gears have a little float . Then run with the clutcand no tension on them and the shaft into the coupler goes in straight and is lined up with the worm so the coupler is all loose and straight.
I snug down and secure this gear train. The last thing is the coupler. the shafts should be fully in to the coupler and in line with each other.? On a shaft with a flat be sure that one screw is square to the flat and centered on it. The 2nd screw is then snugged down.? I found it's easy to have a set screw that's supposed to be on the flat only to find that the flat isn't square to the setscrew. the problem is with the relative size of the grub screw to the flat.?
Power up and run the axis motor watch the coupler to be sure that the shafts are aligned closely. You should see it run without bobbing up and down and the coupling should not be stressed or look like it's being pulled apart (tension).

A lot can be told by the sound of the gear system and motor.? Listen for any uneven sounds, ticking or other periodic changes when running at full slew speed.

If, before you started this process your made an index mark on the worm gear run the system with the clutch disengaged until the mark returns to it's starting point. If it all sounds smooth, reassemble and test.

Be sure you clear any stored PEC data. You must fully initialize the system check and set all parameters and then do another shutdown and and additonal cold start.

good luck

Michael


 

On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 03:31 PM, Jim Pollard wrote:
I purchased the one piece worm from Losmandy hoping to get rid of some of my errors.
So far my 76 sec is worse than ever, and my PHD2 rms got worse.
I snugged the bolts for the worm block to worm housing first, then slightly snugged the bolts to the mount.
I then slightly loosened the worm block bolts to allow them to center with the worm, and then tightened them.
I've tried twice now and still get the same result
There's no noticeable backlash and it seems to run smooth, but obviously something is wrong.
The immediate thought is the worm blocks are "twisting" somehow and putting side load on the bearing.
Since I got almost the same results after R&R the assembly I wonder if the housing was drilled/bored off center.
Appreciate any help and input.

Thanks
Jim P
Jim,

As you know this is a bearing problem. Try this arrangement with just the one spring washer.?



Also I found that these bearings were much better than the stock bearings:?

Also, I just ordered these ceramic bearings to tryout:?

Please report back you findings if you decid3ed to make these changes.

Peter


Keith
 

The washer in the drawing is backwards (should be contacting the outer race).

Keith


 

This drawing has an error probably because you saw Michael Herman's drawing and don't understand how this is supposed to work.?

The bearing's outer shell is the part that is pressed by the spring disc NOT the inner race which carries the worm!

By orienting the spring disc to contact the inner bearing shell or possibly worse the bearing dist cover you are creating pressure and drag where it should not be and potentially leaving the problem of unloaded bearing balls in the bearing unchanged.?

This drawing needs to be replaced with the correct orientation not just an edited text.?

Please believe me on this point as was adding Belleville spring discs to HEQ5 and EQ6 mounts before the GOTO computers were standard to solve this issue and the impact of thermal changes. Bearing induced PE is not unique to Losmandy mounts but it is more obvious because there is no threaded cap to retain the bearings which can e used to preload the worm bearings.?

--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


 

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 07:13 AM, Keith wrote:
The washer in the drawing is backwards (should be contacting the outer race).

Keith
Just saw this, 100% correct!?
?
--

Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?

? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?


 

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 07:13 AM, Keith wrote:
The washer in the drawing is backwards (should be contacting the outer race).

Keith
Keith,

This arrangement produced the lowest PE for me and I think I tried all possible arrangements .? My thoughts as to why this is, is? it is equalizing the pressure why the worm being driven into the bearing.? However my guided PE at 80s is still way too high at 0.7 arc-sec while guiding at Latitude 30 degrees. Michael Herman has suggest that I? try full ceramic bearings. They are expensive so I have opted to buy them in from China at $12 each. Will only use on the Ra axis.

Peter


 

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 08:15 AM, Chip Louie wrote:
This drawing has an error probably because you saw Michael Herman's drawing and don't understand how this is supposed to work.?

The bearing's outer shell is the part that is pressed by the spring disc NOT the inner race which carries the worm!

By orienting the spring disc to contact the inner bearing shell or possibly worse the bearing dist cover you are creating pressure and drag where it should not be and potentially leaving the problem of unloaded bearing balls in the bearing unchanged.?

This drawing needs to be replaced with the correct orientation not just an edited text.?

Chip,

OK, since I have gotten several push backs on this, and since I have quite a few guide logs that show a consistence error, I will reverse the washer and report back. I truly hope you guys are right!

Peter

Please believe me on this point as was adding Belleville spring discs to HEQ5 and EQ6 mounts before the GOTO computers were standard to solve this issue and the impact of thermal changes. Bearing induced PE is not unique to Losmandy mounts but it is more obvious because there is no threaded cap to retain the bearings which can e used to preload the worm bearings.?


 

Chip,

Just to be clear, the arrangement on the left places pressure directly on the ball race as shown in the drawing, while the arrangement on the right place pressure on the outer shell? You are correct I did follow Michaels drawing detail on this.?

Peter


Keith
 
Edited

Peter:

  • The left arrangement in the photo does nothing as it follows the shape of the bearing itself and there is no spring force at all (I noticed this when I first tried the washer as well)
  • I really don't think your 80s error is bearing related, and is probably from the McLennan gearbox.? When I used to have the bearing error, it was clearly 76s and not 80s.
  • FWIW, I asked someone at Boca Bearings if they thought ceramic bearings would be any better for this application, and they didn't really think so (but of course one can always try)

Keith


 

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 09:41 AM, Keith wrote:
Peter:

  • The left arrangement in the photo does nothing as it follows the shape of the bearing itself and there is no spring force at all (I noticed this when I first tried the washer as well)
  • I really don't think your 80s error is bearing related, and is probably from the McLennan gearbox.? When I used to have the bearing error, it was clearly 76s and not 80s.
  • FWIW, I asked someone at Boca Bearings if they thought ceramic bearings would be any better for this application, and they didn't really think so (but of course one can always try)

Keith
Keith,

Thanks for this input. You could be entirely right about the 80s error. I too have speculated about this and the McLennan gearboxes. Although its pretty constant in magnitude between the 25:1 and 125:1 models. There are reports of the 76s error moving to 80s with the OPW drive, but there are? reports of people a new mount and OPW with a sizable 76s error. Interestingly I do not have this error.

I'm moving in an entirely different direction going with onstep and using servos with high resolution optical encoders to direct drive the worm. No more gears. Of coarse when this is built I will know one way or the other where this 80s error originates.

Peter


 

Brian,
Here's the logs from the other night.
Last night something happened with my NINA sequence and it's all screwed up.
There's also a picture of one of the bearing blocks that came with the OPW from your shop.
It looks like something shifted during the cut and there is a step on the journal that rides in the base plate.
In your opinion, do you think this could lead to problems?
The way it is now, only about half of the journal is in contact with the base at any one time.

Jim P


 

Jim,

That's not right. It looks all chewed up. They are smooth and black on the bottom. The left hand one has no movement in it's hole. The right hand one can move a little in it's hole. They ought to replace these, or better yet take a look at the entire worm assembly, as there could be other manufacturing issues. What about the hole in the plate?

Peter


 

Peter,

That's the right side journal that moves to adjust the backlash.
I thought it was funny that it wouldn't be anodized but the cut is definitely not right.
I purchased the OPW as a standalone.
I already purchased the brass worm.
This is on a 2006 (?) G-11 with straight in motors.
I was in the machinist trade over 30 years and this looks like it overlooked somehow during QA.
If I don't hear back from Brian I'll email Tanya tomorrow and show her the picture.

Jim P


 

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 03:05 AM, Michael Ben-Yehuda wrote:
Put an index mark on the worm gear and worm so you can visualize the rotation. You may notice that the worm gear may show some smoothing or wear on some section. Since this is a new worm, you may want to rotate the worm gear so the 'used' side is away from the worm. This will give your 2 fresh unworn surfaces to work with and avoids any uneven wear on the worm gear from the stainless steel worm.?
Michael Ben-Yahuda,

Respectfully, I now believe your assertions that we only use 50% of RA ring gear is not correct. This would only be the case if we never ever loosened the clutch to change the scope position. For instance if you were at zenith the ring would be about 90 degrees off CWD. And then if you had one of the cross-app communications errors, or some kind of power failure, you might have to break the clutch and rotate the telescope 90 degrees back to CWD, but the ring gear stays where it was. If you do a Cold Start (necessary if you have lost orientation) from CWD, the ring is still 90 degrees from the old CWD, but the Gemini now is starting from the new ring CWD rotation. If this happens twice in a row, the ring is now 180 degrees from the original CWD gear position. Or in other words once you break the clutch and do a CWD Cold Start you could be at any random point on the ring gear. There can be no good unworn side, or bad worn-down side, to switch back and forth from. Making this recommendation as a means to better guiding may be misleading.

Regards,

John K.


 

John,
Your points well taken. It's probably too big a step to make that recommendation unless there's evidence that there is eccentricity in gear. As you point out, there can be a lot of variation in how the mount is used from fixed installation to setup for each session. From what I'm learning there are ring gears made of different materials. In my case, it's black, so probably anodized aluminum. The original worm was steel and now there's a OPW with brass.? Steel worm on an anodized ring gear? I'm not sure what the thinking was.

I would not suggest rotation of the RA ring gear as a matter of course... Any eccentricity or variation can change the PE . The recommendation for indexing is to get repeatability.? There is also an issue with slew limits which requires that the relationship between DEC axis and RA position be maintained. It's a matter of procedure to maintain CWD. If you want to use stored PEC then you need to maintain the relationship between CWD, worm gear and DEC axis orientation across the clutch.?


 

On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 05:14 AM, Michael Ben-Yehuda wrote:
If you want to use stored PEC then you need to maintain the relationship between CWD, worm gear and DEC axis orientation across the clutch.?
Michael,

Typically when using PEMPro, we use a hour or less of data to create a PEC curve which is then uploaded to the Gemini unit. Therefore we largely measure the behavior of the worm, and possibly some of the profile found on that section of ring gear. It would be nice to have data over the entire circumference of the ring gear, but that would take 24 hours of data, and some method of rotating through various sections of the ring. But how to maintain using the preferred best mating parts and only those parts is something I'm not sure the average user could do in practice. Since you can't see inside during operations, this may be difficult. But regardless of the random ring position which may be at CWD at a Cold Start, the PEC curve plays back with the same worm oscillations being repeated, and PE should be mostly negated for better guiding. Without PEMPro I can readily see the sawtooth pattern in PHD2 during guiding. I think we would all like to see better guiding performance without using a correction curve if possible


 

Well, I talked to Tanya at Losmandy and she said that's how all the blocks look.
Kind of hard to believe.
I said something about the block not being anodized and she said that's how they come in.
It sounds like the bearing blocks may be outsourced and they are received anodized and the right side one is modified.
That's why it's not coated.


 

On Sat, Aug 7, 2021 at 06:56 PM, Jim Pollard wrote:
Well, I talked to Tanya at Losmandy and she said that's how all the blocks look.
Kind of hard to believe.
I said something about the block not being anodized and she said that's how they come in.
It sounds like the bearing blocks may be outsourced and they are received anodized and the right side one is modified.
That's why it's not coated.
Such BS. I'll post some images tomorrow of blocks I just bought in.

Peter