|
Rather than put several mediocre pictures up here, because this isn't meant for that, I offer a link to a Photography site I haunt.
Please come back because I need a little guidance here.
In the past, I found my way around Polar Alignment by leaving my mount set up, and simply bringing my telescope and computer in and out. (A Warm Start)
But with my new Losmandy work of art, I'm packing it in and out. So my old ways can't be used.
I've taken to drawing pencil lines around where the feet land to try and get as close to the previous nights spot as possible. And I realize it only gets me so close, and I still have to get my PA adjusted. No problem.
Then... turn on the mount. From what I've gathered, a Cold Start is what I need to do. And what I did last night.
Then I picked Bright Stars from the list in the Gemini 2, slewed, centered up in the main camera, and went to a next star. Is that correct? Does the G2 just remember the star after I've centered it up? Or am I missing a step here? Because I think I'm not doing this quite right yet.
Should I be building a Model, like Scott shows with 3 West and 1 East, as my initial procedure?
I feel like I was missing many attempts last night because I went to apparently blank space and couldn't find my object. So I moved on to something else in the Stellarium FOV. Which is working as I had hoped it would controlling the 811 (Or Gemini 2? Sorry, learning my way around the terminology)
When I do find my object, I center it up, then start PHD2 guiding (I closed and restarted PHD2 after crossing the meridian going for the Flaming Star Nebula. Pretty easy with the latest PHD2.) That's the way I learned to do it with my old mount.
Or do you find building a model is the best way to find accuracy for slewing?
My eyepieces are my cameras.
Basically, I'm trying to operate remotely, after my initial start up. But without a virtual hand controller, I have to go back out to do corrections. Kind of counter-intuitive.
I miss being able to run the scope completely remotely.
A thought: Do I maybe need to update the Gemini 2's software? I shouldn't think so, but wondering.
Thanks in advance for any knowledge you'd care to share.
A Calf finding his footing for the first time here. ;^) LOL!
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Hi Sonny ? If you are imaging, polar alignment is pretty important. If you are breaking down and setting up each night, you¡¯ll probably want to go through this process. It gets easier and faster the more you do it. ? My suggestion is you use sharpcap¡¯s polar align tool (really inexpensive, easy to use and very accurate) or polemaster (expensive, very easy to use, accurate but not as much). ? Regarding the virtual hand controller, gemini already has several virtual hand controllers available ? There is one in gemini.net ¨C double click the rainbow colored ¡°gemini.net¡± on your computer and you¡¯ll get it ?
(this works if you are connected via usb or Ethernet) ? ? There is also a web version if you are connected to your mount via Ethernet ? Brian ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Sonny Edmonds
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 11:02 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Losmandy_users_io] OK, First light worth sharing... ? Rather than put several mediocre pictures up here, because this isn't meant for that, I offer a link to a Photography site I haunt.
Please come back because I need a little guidance here.
In the past, I found my way around Polar Alignment by leaving my mount set up, and simply bringing my telescope and computer in and out. (A Warm Start)
But with my new Losmandy work of art, I'm packing it in and out. So my old ways can't be used.
I've taken to drawing pencil lines around where the feet land to try and get as close to the previous nights spot as possible. And I realize it only gets me so close, and I still have to get my PA adjusted. No problem.
Then... turn on the mount. From what I've gathered, a Cold Start is what I need to do. And what I did last night.
Then I picked Bright Stars from the list in the Gemini 2, slewed, centered up in the main camera, and went to a next star. Is that correct? Does the G2 just remember the star after I've centered it up? Or am I missing a step here? Because I think I'm not doing this quite right yet.
Should I be building a Model, like Scott shows with 3 West and 1 East, as my initial procedure?
I feel like I was missing many attempts last night because I went to apparently blank space and couldn't find my object. So I moved on to something else in the Stellarium FOV. Which is working as I had hoped it would controlling the 811 (Or Gemini 2? Sorry, learning my way around the terminology)
When I do find my object, I center it up, then start PHD2 guiding (I closed and restarted PHD2 after crossing the meridian going for the Flaming Star Nebula. Pretty easy with the latest PHD2.) That's the way I learned to do it with my old mount.
Or do you find building a model is the best way to find accuracy for slewing?
My eyepieces are my cameras.
Basically, I'm trying to operate remotely, after my initial start up. But without a virtual hand controller, I have to go back out to do corrections. Kind of counter-intuitive.
I miss being able to run the scope completely remotely.
A thought: Do I maybe need to update the Gemini 2's software? I shouldn't think so, but wondering.
Thanks in advance for any knowledge you'd care to share.
A Calf finding his footing for the first time here. ;^) LOL!
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
I get this:?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Sonny - are you looking for ?
you can download it from this page:
??
how are you connecting the mount to your PC?? what other software are you using for imaging, guiding, etc.?
depending on your answer, it may involve some additional software, which is probably free as wel
Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Also, Using the nice Gemini.net virtual handset that Brian showed, see the underlined work "Func" on the bottom left side, below the "West" diamond button???
If you use a mouse to click the "Func" word, it will drop down a list of available actions.?? One is Meridian Flip, and one is Synch to Current Location, but the one you really want is:?
Add Align point
You do that at each of your centered target objects.? These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .?
Then, only do the Add Align Point once per target.??
The model in the Gemini only gets built from the Add Align Point commands.? Otherwise the default is "Synch Here" and that keeps the existing sky model (all zeros at Cold Boot).
Have fun!
Michael
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
I get this:?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Yes - michael has some excellent additions
a couple of clarifications:
>>>You do that at each of your centered target objects.?? the important part here is centered. do a goto, then center the object, then?do an align. don't align without first centering the target!
>>>These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .??
yes, but not solar system objects. they are not as accurate.
just saw this on the Astro-Physics forum this morning:
"One of my personal rules is that I never recalibrate or sync any GOTO mount on solar system objects. The orbital calcs are always complex and positional errors are the rule, not the exception.
-Christopher Erickson
Observatory engineer
Waikoloa, HI 96738"
On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM Michael Herman < mherman346@...> wrote: Also, Using the nice Gemini.net virtual handset that Brian showed, see the underlined work "Func" on the bottom left side, below the "West" diamond button???
If you use a mouse to click the "Func" word, it will drop down a list of available actions.?? One is Meridian Flip, and one is Synch to Current Location, but the one you really want is:?
Add Align point
You do that at each of your centered target objects.? These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .?
Then, only do the Add Align Point once per target.??
The model in the Gemini only gets built from the Add Align Point commands.? Otherwise the default is "Synch Here" and that keeps the existing sky model (all zeros at Cold Boot).
Have fun!
Michael
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
I get this:?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Hi gang,
I can understand why some people might be leery of using Gemini-calculated planet positions, and a Gemini GoTo, for making a Gemini sky model.??
Yet I also find that my own use of the small planets and deep sky objects works just fine for me, when using a PC based sky chart to send Gemini the coordinates of the object.??
So here are some thoughts on why it might be working well for me, but not for those using a Gemini alone.??
I am not using the Gemini-1 programmed planetary positions for the GoTo.? I am instead using Stellarium (see links below) as my PC based Sky Chart.?
Stellarium
"knows" its coordinates of each deep sky object very accurately.? ?I center that object/planet in Stellarium, then press the CTL-1 to issue the GoTo that position.? And that works just fine.? I center my object then press CTL-3 to Synch or press the Gemini.net Add Align Point to align Gemini to those coordinates.??
I am NOT using the built-in Gemini-1 list of deep sky objects alone.? I think the predicted object positions have be calculated from numerical models from some known earlier position and some time prediction equations.? The model parameters were entered many years ago ago, maybe over a decade ago, so the predictions might have some slight error today for fast moving planetary positions.??
The deep sky objects positions can be looked up, and would not change sky location over our lifetime as they are very far away.? But the Earth's polar axis position is always changing, so that stars like Polaris change their RA and DEC position over the years (also why the polar scope reticule Polaris position changes over they years too, so you need an updated reticule from time to time.)? ?Stellarium on the PC knows these object and planet positions very accurately.
So I should revise my advice to say: if using a PC based sky chart, try choosing any star, or deep sky object, or planet in the sky chart, issuing a GoTo from the sky chart (sends the RA and DEC position to Gemini), then center that object/star with the Gemini and your camera or eyepiece, then issue Add Align Point to the Gemini.? Give it a try and see if your Model building becomes faster and easier.
_______________________
Related issue for imaging small faint deep-sky objects with tight field-of-view systems:
I find this issue when I have aligned my Gemini to nearby bright stars, then try to GoTo a very faint object for imaging, using PC based Stellarium to show where the mount is pointing:
If I issue a GoTo, say to M1 Crab Nebula.? The mount will slew to M1 then stop... Gemini thinks it is done.? In my light polluted area, M1 is invisible.?? In my camera image using a 12 inch f/10 SCT, M1 usually will not be in the image.?? But on the PC, expanding the location shown by the Gemini, I can see that the Gemini shows the mount is slightly off of M1.?? Then I manually slew to dead center the "Scope" icon to the center of M1.?? In my camera image: M1 is usually dead centered in the image frame.
So I think the Gemini knows very accurately where it is pointing.?? But somehow the Gemini has a "GoTo
tolerance" of some closeness to the object target and it is programmed to stop if the mount gets within that tolerance.?? If you are doing wide-angle shooting like with a refractor, you probably see the target well centered,? but with a very tight field of view like an SCT, you might not find the target in the image field (might be in a wide field eyepiece though!).??
Anyway, try my trick of manually centering the object using your sky chart... see if that solves the problem.??
Best of luck, Michael
_____________ For those interested:
?Stellarium??also has add-ins (plug-ins) for asteroids, comets, eyepiece fields of view, camera image chip fields of view, so that you can really "see" what to expect in your camera or image.? It's all free and excellently done.? I am connecting the Gemini-1 using ASCOM, a 4 pin Gemini-1 serial port cable through a ATEN UC232A USB to Serial port device, and the Gemini.net software driver, and the separate program Stellarium-Scope provided freely by???
On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 11:58 AM Brian Valente < bvalente@...> wrote: Yes - michael has some excellent additions
a couple of clarifications:
>>>You do that at each of your centered target objects.?? the important part here is centered. do a goto, then center the object, then?do an align. don't align without first centering the target!
>>>These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .??
yes, but not solar system objects. they are not as accurate.
just saw this on the Astro-Physics forum this morning:
"One of my personal rules is that I never recalibrate or sync any GOTO mount on solar system objects. The orbital calcs are always complex and positional errors are the rule, not the exception.
-Christopher Erickson
Observatory engineer
Waikoloa, HI 96738"
On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM Michael Herman < mherman346@...> wrote: Also, Using the nice Gemini.net virtual handset that Brian showed, see the underlined work "Func" on the bottom left side, below the "West" diamond button???
If you use a mouse to click the "Func" word, it will drop down a list of available actions.?? One is Meridian Flip, and one is Synch to Current Location, but the one you really want is:?
Add Align point
You do that at each of your centered target objects.? These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .?
Then, only do the Add Align Point once per target.??
The model in the Gemini only gets built from the Add Align Point commands.? Otherwise the default is "Synch Here" and that keeps the existing sky model (all zeros at Cold Boot).
Have fun!
Michael
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
I get this:?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
--
Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Whatever works for you, it works right? Hard to argue with that. ? Though in general for astro imaging, plate solving is faster, more accurate, and more repeatable than pretty much every other approach (of course I can¡¯t say 100%!). In addition it can be completely automated. Oh and really *really* good plate solving software is free. ? I¡¯m not sure why imagers with modern equipment and imaging software would *not* want to plate solve. ? ? ? Brian ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Michael Herman
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2020 3:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] OK, First light worth sharing... ? I can understand why some people might be leery of using Gemini-calculated planet positions, and a Gemini GoTo, for making a Gemini sky model.?? Yet I also find that my own use of the small planets and deep sky objects works just fine for me, when using a PC based sky chart to send Gemini the coordinates of the object.?? So here are some thoughts on why it might be working well for me, but not for those using a Gemini alone.?? I am not using the Gemini-1 programmed planetary positions for the GoTo.? I am instead using Stellarium (see links below) as my PC based Sky Chart.? Stellarium "knows" its coordinates of each deep sky object very accurately.? ?I center that object/planet in Stellarium, then press the CTL-1 to issue the GoTo that position.? And that works just fine.? I center my object then press CTL-3 to Synch or press the Gemini.net Add Align Point to align Gemini to those coordinates.?? I am NOT using the built-in Gemini-1 list of deep sky objects alone.? I think the predicted object positions have be calculated from numerical models from some known earlier position and some time prediction equations.? The model parameters were entered many years ago ago, maybe over a decade ago, so the predictions might have some slight error today for fast moving planetary positions.?? The deep sky objects positions can be looked up, and would not change sky location over our lifetime as they are very far away.? But the Earth's polar axis position is always changing, so that stars like Polaris change their RA and DEC position over the years (also why the polar scope reticule Polaris position changes over they years too, so you need an updated reticule from time to time.)? ?Stellarium on the PC knows these object and planet positions very accurately. So I should revise my advice to say: if using a PC based sky chart, try choosing any star, or deep sky object, or planet in the sky chart, issuing a GoTo from the sky chart (sends the RA and DEC position to Gemini), then center that object/star with the Gemini and your camera or eyepiece, then issue Add Align Point to the Gemini.? Give it a try and see if your Model building becomes faster and easier. Related issue for imaging small faint deep-sky objects with tight field-of-view systems: I find this issue when I have aligned my Gemini to nearby bright stars, then try to GoTo a very faint object for imaging, using PC based Stellarium to show where the mount is pointing: If I issue a GoTo, say to M1 Crab Nebula.? The mount will slew to M1 then stop... Gemini thinks it is done.? In my light polluted area, M1 is invisible.?? In my camera image using a 12 inch f/10 SCT, M1 usually will not be in the image.?? But on the PC, expanding the location shown by the Gemini, I can see that the Gemini shows the mount is slightly off of M1.?? Then I manually slew to dead center the "Scope" icon to the center of M1.?? In my camera image: M1 is usually dead centered in the image frame. So I think the Gemini knows very accurately where it is pointing.?? But somehow the Gemini has a "GoTo tolerance" of some closeness to the object target and it is programmed to stop if the mount gets within that tolerance.?? If you are doing wide-angle shooting like with a refractor, you probably see the target well centered,? but with a very tight field of view like an SCT, you might not find the target in the image field (might be in a wide field eyepiece though!).?? Anyway, try my trick of manually centering the object using your sky chart... see if that solves the problem.?? ?Stellarium??also has add-ins (plug-ins) for asteroids, comets, eyepiece fields of view, camera image chip fields of view, so that you can really "see" what to expect in your camera or image.? It's all free and excellently done.? I am connecting the Gemini-1 using ASCOM, a 4 pin Gemini-1 serial port cable through a ATEN UC232A USB to Serial port device, and the Gemini.net software driver, and the separate program Stellarium-Scope provided freely by??? ? On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 11:58 AM Brian Valente <bvalente@...> wrote: Yes - michael has some excellent additions a couple of clarifications: >>>You do that at each of your centered target objects.?? the important part here is centered. do a goto, then center the object, then?do an align. don't align without first centering the target! >>>These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .?? yes, but not solar system objects. they are not as accurate. just saw this on the Astro-Physics forum this morning: "One of my personal rules is that I never recalibrate or sync any GOTO mount on solar system objects. The orbital calcs are always complex and positional errors are the rule, not the exception.
-Christopher Erickson
Observatory engineer
Waikoloa, HI 96738"
? On Thu, Feb 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM Michael Herman <mherman346@...> wrote: Also, ? Using the nice Gemini.net virtual handset that Brian showed, see the underlined work "Func" on the bottom left side, below the "West" diamond button??? If you use a mouse to click the "Func" word, it will drop down a list of available actions.?? One is Meridian Flip, and one is Synch to Current Location, but the one you really want is:? You do that at each of your centered target objects.? These can be any goto star (so Gemini knows it's true sky position), but any goto deep sky objects with a clear center, or planet, should also work fine, as long as they were a GoTo .? Then, only do the Add Align Point once per target.?? The model in the Gemini only gets built from the Add Align Point commands.? Otherwise the default is "Synch Here" and that keeps the existing sky model (all zeros at Cold Boot). ? [Edited Message Follows] Thank You, Brian,
I'm not finding it on the web, I guess I'm clumsy as a bear cub.
Could you help me find it, Please?
I get this:?
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
--
--
|
Sonny,?
I think your steps should have the following inserted.
Then I picked Bright Stars from the list in the Gemini 2, slewed, centered up in the main camera (then select menu - align - alignment) then go to the next star and repeat as in this video?. I only had to do this once or twice on each side of the pier and then the object was usually on the chip from that point on. Of course you first have to have a decent polar alignment, I use polemaster for a quick alignment, and PHD2 drift alignment for a really good alignment, but as Brian mentioned there are others equally good or better.?
|
Sonny,
Nevermind, after re-reading your post if you just want to turn it on and go back inside just do as Brian and Micheal said use the ASCOM controller to align and sync.?
|
Would really second what Brian said. For imaging, especially across multiple nights, plate solving works very, very well. Accurate to well under 50 pixels at my 1.61"/pixel plate scale, probably more, but I don't need more accuracy than that. As Brian said, PA is critical (I use Polemaster, but based on comments here would like to try Sharp Cap). My standard imaging protocol is to polar align, command a slew to whatever it is I am imaging. Gemini will be off. No problem. Within SGP, I just do a blind sync. ANSVR (local Astrometry.net) plate solves and the SGP syncs the scope; I don't even have to look up at the sky! Then start the imaging session and? SGP automatically uses PlateSolve2 to center the object and we're off; my scope has a rotator, and it will even tell me how many degrees I need to rotate my scope to match my desired framing, then checks the orientation.. SGP costs $99 for three licenses. ANSVR is free and so are the UCAC3 and APM catalogs needed for PlateSolve2.?
|
>>>
?Within SGP, I just do a blind sync. ANSVR (local Astrometry.net) plate solves and the SGP syncs the scope; I don't even have to look up at the sky! Then start the imaging session and? SGP automatically uses PlateSolve2?
Arun you might give ASTAP plate solve a try? (it's free with latest SGP)
i've used pinpoint, platesolve2, and astap, ASTAP is not only much faster, but often it solves first goto after cold start - very surprising!
Would really second what Brian said. For imaging, especially across multiple nights, plate solving works very, very well. Accurate to well under 50 pixels at my 1.61"/pixel plate scale, probably more, but I don't need more accuracy than that. As Brian said, PA is critical (I use Polemaster, but based on comments here would like to try Sharp Cap). My standard imaging protocol is to polar align, command a slew to whatever it is I am imaging. Gemini will be off. No problem. Within SGP, I just do a blind sync. ANSVR (local Astrometry.net) plate solves and the SGP syncs the scope; I don't even have to look up at the sky! Then start the imaging session and? SGP automatically uses PlateSolve2 to center the object and we're off; my scope has a rotator, and it will even tell me how many degrees I need to rotate my scope to match my desired framing, then checks the orientation.. SGP costs $99 for three licenses. ANSVR is free and so are the UCAC3 and APM catalogs needed for PlateSolve2.?
-- Brian?
Brian Valente portfolio
|
Hi Les,
Actually, no, I don't want to "turn it on and go back inside." LOL!
I like to stay with the mount until everything is running to my satisfaction, and no bugs have cropped up.
I tend to enjoy watching and listening to my mount as it follows along with the targets I give it.
When it is fully "Aligned" (sorry, dirty word I learned from my AVX), and on an object being photographed, then?I like to go inside, connect with Tight Vnc, and watch and control the mount from inside. (Warm and cozy)
All interested: (here I go a rambling)
This is probably sacrilege to many, But if I'm on something I want to build on like I was with "The Flaming Star Nebula", I don't just sit while it mundanely builds the image, I've found myself watching TV shows with the wife while the equipment works automatically. My Infinity camera faithfully runs along doing 2 minute (120s) images (or whatever time I choose) and stacks them. ;^)
But when I begin on an object, or slew to a new one using Stellarium, I will center up (with crosshairs), then start PHD2 (normally), and when I'm reasonably certain I have my image rolling in, sit back, do other things, fix a drink, get a beer, watch TV, or pester folks on the Internet.
But like last night, I was trying out something very new to me that Brian helped me set up called ASCOM and got rid of a wire, too. So everything talks through the one USB cable, and PHD2 and Stellarium are working together. Stellarium and the new Gemini hand controller were fighting each other. Brian got me around all that with a short chat on the telephone, and fixing some settings I did not understand. (Thank You, Brian!)
I've been trying to use Scott Losmandy's Model building, and it finally worked around 9 or 10 last night. But I have more to do in ASCOM because I think things are not quite ironed out yet.
But Windows unleashed yet another Update yesterday (read about it ). I think it has been causing me, at least, a lot of heartaches.
At one point my Atik Infinity camera went absolutely Bonkers, and my mount ran into its West RA limit and stopped. Fortunately, I had my limits set to prevent contact. Or it could have been disastrous.
But I think maybe ASCOM and my 64 bit computers might be at odds. But not sure. Lots of strange things going on.Does ASCOM care if the computer is 64 bit?
And the only way to center up my objects was with the HC at the mount.
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Sonny,
Didn't mean it as derogatory, that's actually what I do. I don't even have my hand controller plugged into the mount. I'm hoping by keeping it inside nice and cozy I can preserve it. Of course it was 16 degrees Fahrenheit? -1F with windchill when I opened the dome last night, it was all I could do to flip the switch and run back inside haha.?
Les
|
Ha, Ha, Les. No, not taken as derogatory at all. ;^)
I still have my hand controller plugged in. But might one day may pack it in and put it away.
I still use it occasionally, but this is only day 7 for me. 8^0 I'm really pleased with how fast I'm getting a handle on this. But Brian has propelled me light years with his help.
I'm all set up and the sky apps are all wrong. It's a beautiful looking sky tonight.
And even if it gets all wonky like last night did, I still learn something. Not disappointed at all.
-1¡ã F, ah such memories! When I lived in Wyoming, U.S.A., 0¡ã was T-shirt weather. My blood got so thick, one time I cut my finger and didn't bleed. It just oozed.
No, my friend, I haven't been cold since I moved back from Wyoming.
But here in California, anything below 60¡ã is "Freezing".
I spent the day making "models" and live running the mount against Stellarium. Suddenly, something clicked and the Gemini hand controller was working with my Stellarium and PHD2 opened. So I was investigating my good luck about the time Brian gave me a call. We chatted a bit while he was commuting and I might have it through my thick head.
If I open Stellarium first, it connects to the Gemini. Then open the Gemini controller, things work.
But if I open the Gemini first , then it won't work. Crazy. Brian tried to explain that, but until I actually do something, it's the way I learn.
Anyway, time to uncap the the scopes and see if Polaris is about. Some day I dream of being able to plate solve....
Stay warm, Les!
Sonny
--
SonnyE
(I suggest viewed in full screen)
|
Brian, thanks for the ASTAP suggestion. Seems quite a bit faster than Plate Solve2 on a couple of test images I ran. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it live tonight.?
|
Michael Herman