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Hi Karl,

It's good to hear from another GM100 owner. How do you find the tracking
accuracy of your mount? Any tricks that have improved it? Any tricks to
improve (remove slop from) the DEC tangent arm?

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@...> wrote:

I also have the GM100 and ST-4 and do not use the PEC. It seems to
work fine without it.

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Hi Paul -
I bought mine about 10 or 11 years ago at Riverside. It is serial
number 0016. I have an early drive gear. I know this because at the
time I bought it Scott offered to install a "new" type of gear with
less periodic error for a little more money and if I was willing to
wait. I decided not to, and have never really had a problem. With the
ST-4, its even less of a concern because the ST-4 controls so
precisely. When my photos are bad they are bad because of something I
did like poor polar alignment, not because of the error in the gear.

Regarding the tangent arm, I just tighten up on the belt as much as I
can. The drive never really gets so far off that I or the ST-4 can't
get it back on target quickly.


--- In Losmandy_users@..., Paul Sterngold <psterngold@y...>
wrote:

Hi Karl,

It's good to hear from another GM100 owner. How do you find the

tracking

accuracy of your mount? Any tricks that have improved it? Any

tricks to

improve (remove slop from) the DEC tangent arm?

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@e...> wrote:

I also have the GM100 and ST-4 and do not use the PEC. It seems

to

work fine without it.

__________________________________________________
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Thanks, Karl. I believe my mount has the "high precision" gears. When I
bought it, the seller told me it did, and I called Scott to confirm. He
said that if the polar gear was black, it's HP. I believe that my PE is due
to something in the worm or worm bearings.

Regarding the DEC tangent, I believe the play in mine comes from the mating
between the tangent arm and the drive screw. When I first received the
mount, there was no bolt attaching the brass "drive pin" to the arm. It
worked but there the drive pin was able to shift a little, resulting in
some takeup delay when changing direction. I have installed a thin nylon
washer on the bottom of the tangent arm where the pin comes through, and
found a bolt that fits into it. The problem is finding the "right" tension
for the bolt. Too loose, and there's still play. Too tight, and the drive
pin binds.

There's also some up/down play where the tangent arm assembly clamps to the
DEC shaft. If I hold the clamp all the way up before tightening it, there's
less play.

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@...> wrote:

Hi Paul -
I bought mine about 10 or 11 years ago at Riverside. It is serial
number 0016. I have an early drive gear. I know this because at the
time I bought it Scott offered to install a "new" type of gear with
less periodic error for a little more money and if I was willing to
wait. I decided not to, and have never really had a problem. With the
ST-4, its even less of a concern because the ST-4 controls so
precisely. When my photos are bad they are bad because of something I
did like poor polar alignment, not because of the error in the gear.

Regarding the tangent arm, I just tighten up on the belt as much as I
can. The drive never really gets so far off that I or the ST-4 can't
get it back on target quickly.


--- In Losmandy_users@..., Paul Sterngold <psterngold@y...>
wrote:

Hi Karl,

It's good to hear from another GM100 owner. How do you find the

tracking

accuracy of your mount? Any tricks that have improved it? Any

tricks to

improve (remove slop from) the DEC tangent arm?

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@e...> wrote:

I also have the GM100 and ST-4 and do not use the PEC. It seems

to

work fine without it.

__________________________________________________
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My worm gear is bright solid brsss. I guess its a collectors item now.

Do you know there is a small Allen screw at the base of the worm
block that is used to adjust the pressure exerted by the worm against
the worm gear. Scott can tell you how to adjust this correctly.

On the tangent arm. The threaded bolt you refer to is supposed to
have a small knurled plastic knob on it. That's how you can easily
adjust the tension. I think there is also a spring to hold the
setting once you have it where you want it. I rarely have to touch
mine once its properly adjusted. Again, Scott has parts, I'm sure.



--- In Losmandy_users@..., Paul Sterngold <psterngold@y...>
wrote:

Thanks, Karl. I believe my mount has the "high precision" gears.

When I

bought it, the seller told me it did, and I called Scott to

confirm. He

said that if the polar gear was black, it's HP. I believe that my

PE is due

to something in the worm or worm bearings.

Regarding the DEC tangent, I believe the play in mine comes from

the mating

between the tangent arm and the drive screw. When I first received

the

mount, there was no bolt attaching the brass "drive pin" to the

arm. It

worked but there the drive pin was able to shift a little,

resulting in

some takeup delay when changing direction. I have installed a thin

nylon

washer on the bottom of the tangent arm where the pin comes

through, and

found a bolt that fits into it. The problem is finding the "right"

tension

for the bolt. Too loose, and there's still play. Too tight, and the

drive

pin binds.

There's also some up/down play where the tangent arm assembly

clamps to the

DEC shaft. If I hold the clamp all the way up before tightening it,

there's

less play.

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@e...> wrote:

Hi Paul -
I bought mine about 10 or 11 years ago at Riverside. It is serial
number 0016. I have an early drive gear. I know this because at

the

time I bought it Scott offered to install a "new" type of gear

with

less periodic error for a little more money and if I was willing

to

wait. I decided not to, and have never really had a problem. With

the

ST-4, its even less of a concern because the ST-4 controls so
precisely. When my photos are bad they are bad because of

something I

did like poor polar alignment, not because of the error in the

gear.

Regarding the tangent arm, I just tighten up on the belt as much

as I

can. The drive never really gets so far off that I or the ST-4

can't

get it back on target quickly.


--- In Losmandy_users@..., Paul Sterngold

<psterngold@y...>

wrote:

Hi Karl,

It's good to hear from another GM100 owner. How do you find the

tracking

accuracy of your mount? Any tricks that have improved it? Any

tricks to

improve (remove slop from) the DEC tangent arm?

Paul Sterngold

--- Karl Moll <karlmoll@e...> wrote:

I also have the GM100 and ST-4 and do not use the PEC. It

seems

to

work fine without it.

__________________________________________________
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Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.

__________________________________________________
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Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.