/g/Losmandy_users Welcome to the Losmandy discussion group! A wide variety of German equatorial mounts are available on the market, but the Losmandy series remains among the best performing and most competitively priced options. With more Losmandy mounts being used and Gemini GoTo control becoming increasingly popular, this discussion group is intended for the use of owners of Losmandy mounts, or prospective owners, to share views and tips, ask questions and promote solutions to problems encountered. This can include not only discussion about the mounts themselves, but also their suitability/compatibility with various optical tube assemblies. A great deal of expertise on the Gemini system is available on this group. (Additional expertise can be found on the Titan group, for which there is a link at the bottom of this page; and on the Gemini group, for users of Gemini on non-Losmandy mounts). Many of our users prefer the traditional Losmandy stepper electronics without go-to. We look forward to answering your questions and to the contribution of your own experience. This group is independent of Losmandy Astronomical Products and exists for Losmandy mount owners and others who are curious to exchange ideas and expertise, as well as, to support each other. Please note: this group is not a Losmandy support channel. If you need technical support, please contact Losmandy directly at [email protected] Some other groups that may be of interest: Gemini Users (Gemini-1) Gemini II Users Gemini ASCOM Driver Users Losmandy Hackers Group (DIY modifications to Losmandy mounts) Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:48:36 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83868 <div>More inserting circles. Best to do a search of the forum posts like this explain <a href="/g/Losmandy_users/topic/73313484#msg66037" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">them better</a></div> <div> </div> <div>I’ve never used them, yes shame on me.  <br/><br/></div> <div>Also forum search for 492 drive issues.  Info is available from year 2000’ish onwards.   Most Topics have been covered dozens of times.  Not fobbing you off it’s just sometimes easier to search.  <br/><br/></div> <div>But if you need more info post away</div> <div> </div> <div>cheers</div> <div> </div> <div>--</div> <div>Brendan</div> brenatlilydale@... (Brendan) Thu, 22 May 2025 19:08:54 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83867 <div>Swap Ra motor drive plug to DEC and visa versa </div> <div> </div> <div>Since they are the same you need to probably give some DEC commands to see if it moves.   But since DEC is now Ra it should. <br/><br/>The motors have gears inside â€�.sounds like a stripped gear.  You can take them off and then run them on the bench to make it easier.  Remember to mark which is Ra and DEC so you can follow your actions </div> <div> </div> <div>From memory setting circles have a friction grub screw somewhere.  Which allow you to move it to local Sidereal Ra setting for that date. It’s probably stuck to mount, not to axes.   I’m not really sure.  I was waiting for someone more knowledgable than me on these matters to post. </div> <div>--</div> <div>Brendan</div> brenatlilydale@... (Brendan) Thu, 22 May 2025 16:37:56 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83866 <div> <p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-transform: none; word-spacing: 0px; background-color: #ece7d5">New owner of a blue GM-100, S/N 0082.</p> <p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-transform: none; word-spacing: 0px; background-color: #ece7d5">Here&#39;s my problem: The RA motor works, and I can see the worm gear turn either direction, but the setting circle never moves.</p> <p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-transform: none; word-spacing: 0px; background-color: #ece7d5">The Dec motor worked last week, and I could see the belt move. Now it makes a clicky sound but the belt does not move. </p> <p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-transform: none; word-spacing: 0px; background-color: #ece7d5">The 492 unit appears to be in solid working order. I have a couple other 492s, so I could swap one out and see if that makes a difference. </p> <p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-transform: none; word-spacing: 0px; background-color: #ece7d5">The clutches work smooth and easy with no slop. <br/><br/>What should I check out next?</p> </div> pootco@... (plinthley) Wed, 21 May 2025 20:39:11 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83865 <div>You mighty be able to borrow (deposit required) a set like that puller from Advance Auto or Auto Zone. </div> tgaran4@... (TomG) Tue, 20 May 2025 17:08:54 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83864 <div>Hi Bill,</div> <div> </div> <div>Here is the bearing puller kit:</div> <div> </div> <div><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LCJ45Q4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LCJ45Q4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1</a></div> <div> </div> <div>Just a few taps with the hammer slide will knock out the needle bearings. I wouldn&#39;t recommend any other tool as you more likely will start damaging the bearing seats or the end lips with screwdrivers, hammers or other basic shop tools. One tool will fit the needle bearings, and one of the smallest ones will fit the worm bearings (see pics). The new needle bearing should be tapped in gently with a rubber hammer or piece of soft pine so the races don&#39;t get dented. Losmandy lubricates these with the Jet-Lube Artic grease, which you can get online or in their bearing relube kit.</div> <div> </div> <div>Good luck,</div> <div> </div> <div>John</div> <div>--</div> <div>_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br/><br/>Losmandy G11G2 on pier; refurbed Losmandy G11 with OnStep controller; SkyShed design roll-off observatory; ZWO ASI2600MM-P; ZWO ASI071MC; Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 ED with field flattener; Celestron C925 Edge HD with 0.7XFR, William Optics Zenithstar 61 APO; PHD2, NINA, Sequence Generator Pro and PixInsight user</div> jjkmetz54@... (John Kmetz) Tue, 20 May 2025 09:35:27 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83863 <div>Check your DIN cables/Sockets are not failing from slight movement or vibration.  </div> <div> </div> <div>When I test these I twist and move the cables inside the sockets (gently but firmly), side to side and slightly in/out.  To ensure I don’t get runaway from either a bad PCB pin joint or bad DIN socket pin to cable (Aka it’s not making good contact).  Even seen cracked PCB traces from constant removal/insertions.  </div> <div> </div> <div>Also subject your PCB to a vibration test â€�.tap the PCB with a small stick all over.  I use the wood handle of a fitch brush.  I have seen CPU socket/Pin corrosion that only showed up doing this test.   <br/><br/></div> <div>Moisture tends to react with these CPU socket contact fingers and differing metal of the CPU pins itself (galvanic).  And they are corroding with age and moisture.   I have seen a few like this. </div> <div> </div> <div>The only fix is vac-desolder the CPU socket, solder a new one in and use a new CPU.  <br/><br/></div> <div>Strangely the Pic44C’s sockets and ICs do not suffer from this fate!  Go figure!  <br/><br/><span style="">Iâ€�</span><span style="">m saying some issues like runaway are not just motor related. <br/></span></div> <div>cheers. FWIW</div> <div>--</div> <div>Brendan</div> brenatlilydale@... (Brendan) Mon, 19 May 2025 22:48:48 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83862 <div>Thanks for the response. </div> <div>Have already checked the encoder seems spotless, cable ok as working with the my original pre SVM servo. </div> <div>Have been in contact with Tanya at Losmandy today... hopefully will get this issue sorted.</div> <div> </div> <div>Peter</div> whipdry@... (Peter) Mon, 19 May 2025 13:36:08 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83861 <div>On Sun, May 18, 2025 at 06:56 AM, Peter wrote:</div> <div> <blockquote> <div>Has anyone had SVM-HT servo motors that stalls?</div> <div>During an imaging session a couple of nights ago SGPro failed to platesolve, went out to check &amp; found Gemini1 hand controller indicating a stall... weirdly the motor was running at excessively fast spinning the scope like a windmill while wrapping the power &amp; USB cables around the mount! reset everything but this just kept happening. </div> <div> </div> <div>I tested the mount next day &amp; all seemed fine, only difference was a higher daytime temperature... next clear night worked fine until a drop in temperature! </div> <div>Swapped out the SVM-HT for an original motor I still have &amp; all went well for the rest of the night, think that confirms the SVM-HT has a fault! </div> <div> </div> <div>Any help with this would be appreciated.</div> <div>Thanks, </div> <div> </div> <div>Peter </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> </blockquote> </div> <div> </div> <div>Could be the cable or the encoder has failed or is dirty.  Do you have a spare longer DEC cable as I tell people to keep on hand for just such occasions?  If not buy one from Losmandy to confirm it is not the cable.  In the meantime you can try to see if the servo motor has any debris in the encoder reader under the metal cover.  You can do a visual inspection and often you will see dust or fuzzy stuff from mites or spiders.  This blocks the optical encoder and you get runaways.  Clear this out carefully and see if it resolves the issue.  If using a known good cable and cleaning the encoder slit fails to fix it AND the servo fails on the other axis using the known good cable the issues is likely the servo board or encoder read head.  Probably should see if Losmandy can help you at that point.  </div> <div> </div> <div>HTH! </div> <div> </div> <div>--</div> <div><br/><span style="color: #0000ff; font-family: helvetica">Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware</span><span style="color: #0000ff"> <br/></span><span style="color: #0000ff"><br/>Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA </span><br/><a style="color: #23527c" href="https://www.astrospheric.com/?Latitude=34.114268&amp;Longitude=-118.1400894" target="_blank" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><img style="height: 100px; width: 368px; border: solid thin #333" src="https://astrodatabot.azurewebsites.net/api/v1/sig.gif?code=DO1YwhxV4phITXWnJmpWWg3rKObzX/6vJlVVZ1stNNMcsTnbk5rF4Q==&amp;UID=12751&amp;Latitude=34.114268&amp;Longitude=-118.1400894" alt="Astrospheric Signature" loading="lazy" class="myimg-responsive"/> </a></div> <div> </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> chiplouie@... (Chip Louie) Mon, 19 May 2025 11:08:53 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83860 <div>Closing the loop on this for others.</div> <div> </div> <div>End result fixed most problems. Tasks completed to do that:-</div> <div>Cleaning and regreasing done and found the Dec/RA motor cogs (under the external covers) were heavy with baked on grease so cleaning them up and regreasing them is a good idea.</div> <div>Readjusted the Dec worm gear per video a couple of times until I got the backlash under control.</div> <div>Redid PEC with good results.</div> <div>Redid PHD2 Guiding Assistant and Calibration assistant - got to an acceptable result but will let it learn for a while also. Once I get a view of the backlash trends I will then tinker with TVC.</div> <div> </div> <div>Thanks all,</div> <div>Ken</div> ken@... (Oberon510) Mon, 19 May 2025 08:37:29 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83859 <div>&#34;The needle bearings themselves are like little roller pins, with tiny handles that fit in the races. Some of these were broken off in my G11 after the first 3 years of use. If you get the bearing puller I recommended, you can pop these out quickly. &#34;</div> <div> </div> <div>John,</div> <div> </div> <div>I&#39;m unable to find your recommendation for the bearing puller.  Could you please repost it?</div> <div> </div> <div>Thanks,</div> <div>Bill</div> bill@... (Bill Tschumy) Mon, 19 May 2025 08:05:35 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83858 <div>Chip, John, <br/><br/>Please take your personal squabbles off-line. </div> <div> </div> <div>It&#39;s been posted here before and I guess it&#39;s time to repeat <a href="/g/Losmandy_users/message/78913" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener">it again</a>: <span style="text-decoration: underline">personal attacks are not allowed</span>. If you disagree with someone, post a cogent technical rebuttal, provide supporting technical evidence, or describe your own experience to the contrary. Attacking another member or their credibility is a quick way to lose member privileges. </div> <div> </div> <div>And to be clear: nobody here speaks for Losmandy except for Scott, his employees and associates. And they are members here, just like you and everyone else.</div> <div> </div> <div>Regards,</div> <div> </div> <div>  -Paul</div> yh@... (Paul Kanevsky) Sun, 18 May 2025 20:08:17 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83857 <div>On Sat, May 17, 2025 at 02:59 PM, Chip Louie wrote:</div> <div> <blockquote> <div>The rule with bearings here is if the wear is just normal polishing and the shafts are not damaged like galling or wide deep scratches and there is not lip being formed on the shafts there is no reason to replace them.  Clean with solvent, blow dry with shop air and relubricate them.  Scott Losmandy will tell you the same thing for all bearings, this is his advice regarding his mounts.  I would take his advice unless you want to spend money for not good reason or increase the likelihood of bunging up your mount. Regarding the clutch adjustment knob side thrust bearings, again if there is no wear or damage to the rollers or races just clean, dry, relubricate and reinstall them. </div> <div> </div> <div>Worm bearings are a no brainer as they are cheap to replace and as stated almost impossible to get clean enough once contaminated.  You might want to spend some of the money you just saved by not replacing the needle and thrust bearings on slightly higher precision bearings for the worms bearings.  The standard R4 bearings may contribute to some worm noise.  Pass on expensive ceramics, just buy higher precision stainless steel bearings but don&#39;t get too carried away with the tolerance level, they will need to run smoothly in extreme temperature shifts. </div> <div> </div> <div>Just leave the drive system conversation here.  I think you&#39;ll have an audience.  I always find it entertaining to see what people think even if it is often based on conspiracy theories. LOL.</div> </blockquote> </div> <div> </div> <div>Hi Jesse,</div> <div> </div> <div>There are no rules for when or how to replace your bearings. It&#39;s all based on what you find when you do your disassembly. Some people here who claim they speak for Mr. Losmandy in fact do not, have not been authorized to do so, nor are they company representatives. You can call their office to verify this. Personally I give no credence to guys who have never posted even one astrophotography shot, or have never shown even a single guide chart that shows the mechanical performance of their mount. It&#39;s all armchair astronomy otherwise.</div> <div> </div> <div>If your mount is approaching 30 years old, more than likely you need a full overhaul. The true test of the bearings is not how shiny they look, but what the measured thicknesses are compared to the original parts. If the washer, bearing, washer assembly under the ring gear is not the right height, the worm will not be centered on the ring gear and they will not mesh together correctly. The needle bearings inside the mount are one of the most neglected parts since they are hard to reach, hard to clean, and are not easy to relubricate. The needle bearings themselves are like little roller pins, with tiny handles that fit in the races. Some of these were broken off in my G11 after the first 3 years of use. If you get the bearing puller I recommended, you can pop these out quickly. There is no need for three even though there may be space for the third. The whole set of bearings and washers for the mount is probably a few hundred bucks (not counting tariffs or other increases over the last few years), a minimal cost in the effort of AP. Once you have the mount apart, that is the time to replace these maintenance pieces so you don&#39;t have to go fishing for sources of guide errors later.</div> <div> </div> <div>Please send me a PM if you need more help with the OnStep conversion, which outside the general purpose of this forum. You can turn your older mount into a high performance low error machine with a little TLC.</div> <div> </div> <div>CS,</div> <div> </div> <div>John</div> <div>_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br/><br/>Losmandy G11G2 on pier; refurbed Losmandy G11 with OnStep controller; SkyShed design roll-off observatory; ZWO ASI2600MM-P; ZWO ASI071MC; Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 ED with field flattener; Celestron C925 Edge HD with 0.7XFR, William Optics Zenithstar 61 APO; PHD2, NINA, Sequence Generator Pro and PixInsight user</div> jjkmetz54@... (John Kmetz) Sun, 18 May 2025 19:15:48 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83856 <div>On Sun, May 18, 2025 at 10:23 AM, George Cushing wrote:</div> <div> <blockquote> <div dir="ltr"> <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif">Pretty sure that the worm wheels are anodized after machining. Lapping will remove that hardened surface that results from that process. So not only is lapping unnecessary, it&#39;s to be strongly discouraged.</div> </div> </blockquote> </div> <div> </div> <div>Scott says that too!   </div> <div> </div> <div>--</div> <div><br/><span style="color: #0000ff; font-family: helvetica">Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware</span><span style="color: #0000ff"> <br/></span><span style="color: #0000ff"><br/>Astrospheric Forecast - South Pasadena, CA </span><br/><a style="color: #23527c" href="https://www.astrospheric.com/?Latitude=34.114268&amp;Longitude=-118.1400894" target="_blank" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><img style="height: 100px; width: 368px; border: solid thin #333" src="https://astrodatabot.azurewebsites.net/api/v1/sig.gif?code=DO1YwhxV4phITXWnJmpWWg3rKObzX/6vJlVVZ1stNNMcsTnbk5rF4Q==&amp;UID=12751&amp;Latitude=34.114268&amp;Longitude=-118.1400894" alt="Astrospheric Signature" loading="lazy" class="myimg-responsive"/> </a></div> <div> </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> chiplouie@... (Chip Louie) Sun, 18 May 2025 13:19:23 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83855 <div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif">Pretty sure that the worm wheels are anodized after machining. Lapping will remove that hardened surface that results from that process. So not only is lapping unnecessary, it&#39;s to be strongly discouraged.</div></div> stm32bluepill@... (George Cushing) Sun, 18 May 2025 10:23:01 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83854 Thank you!<br /><br />Sent from Chuck&#39;s iPhone chuck@... (charles jagow) Sun, 18 May 2025 08:03:26 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83853 <div>Has anyone had SVM-HT servo motors that stalls?</div> <div>During an imaging session a couple of nights ago SGPro failed to platesolve, went out to check &amp; found Gemini1 hand controller indicating a stall... weirdly the motor was running at excessively fast spinning the scope like a windmill while wrapping the power &amp; USB cables around the mount! reset everything but this just kept happening. </div> <div> </div> <div>I tested the mount next day &amp; all seemed fine, only difference was a higher daytime temperature... next clear night worked fine until a drop in temperature! </div> <div>Swapped out the SVM-HT for an original motor I still have &amp; all went well for the rest of the night, think that confirms the SVM-HT has a fault! </div> <div> </div> <div>Any help with this would be appreciated.</div> <div>Thanks, </div> <div> </div> <div>Peter </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> whipdry@... (Peter) Sun, 18 May 2025 06:56:31 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83852 <div>Forgot to sayâ€�.that stainless stud looks bent.   Your standoff looks not square in images</div> <div> </div> <div>You can replace this stud.  3/16 x16 tpi I think.  Not sure length.   Remove one and measure. <br/><br/>FWIW</div> <div> </div> <div>--</div> <div>Brendan</div> brenatlilydale@... (Brendan) Sun, 18 May 2025 02:30:54 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83851 <div>Hi Charles</div> <div> </div> <div>the nylon washer goes on top of gearbox flange (gearbox against mount) and stand-off post screws down on the stainless stud.   Later models this was changed to a male/female stand-off (no stud).  Yours has round female/female stand-off with stainless steel stud, like mine. <br/><br/><br/></div> <div>Picture tells all </div> <div><img src="/g/Losmandy_users/attachment/83851/0" loading="lazy" class="myimg-responsive"/></div> <div><br/>cheers</div> <div> </div> <div>--</div> <div>Brendan</div> brenatlilydale@... (Brendan) Sun, 18 May 2025 00:37:44 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83850 <html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type"/><meta name="Generator"/></head><body lang="EN-US"><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">I have a G11 that was bought in 2008, it was upgraded about 10 years ago with new higher torque motors.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">I took it out in the field today to hoist my 100mm Lunt solar Ha scope for public outreach, everything was going OK and then a nine-year-old with no attached parent came bounding through our telescope forest and as luck would have it, the youngster lost footing and ran into my G11 mount. I was standing opposite of the impact point and caught the scope, mount and boy from toppling over.  The boy got off with a scratch above an eye.  My G11 didn’t get off that easy. After I recovered and started again with a power up at CWD the RA was very erratic and making a bit of noise.  And after about five minutes of minor troubleshooting the RA finally refused to move.  I could hear the motor running but nothing moving like it is supposed to.  I packed it up and went home.  I began troubleshooting components by systematically interchanging DEC components into the RA train.  Upon swapping the suspected RA components (motor, transmission, and coupling I could not find a culprit. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">So, I have a question on the order of a couple of parts.  I thought I had a diagram of how they went from when I took it apart years ago to upgrade things, but I can’t find that notebook.  It has to do with the transmission assembly and its fastener order.  The transmission goes in such that the couplers couple and then an internally threaded post screws on a threaded stud and holds the transmission to the worm via the oddly named coupler whose name escapes me right now.  I seem to have two very small nylon (delron) washers that fit over the threaded studs.  My question is does the nylon/delron washer go below the transmission mounting flange or above the transmission mounting flange transmission?  </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"><img width="640" height="640" style="" id="Picture_x0020_1" src="/g/Losmandy_users/attachment/83850/0" loading="lazy" class="myimg-responsive"/></span><span style="font-family: sans-serif"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">In this picture the white object is the nylon/delron washer and is under the transmission mounting flange and the threaded aluminum post tightens directly against the transmission mounting flange.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">Or</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"><img width="640" height="640" style="" id="Picture_x0020_2" src="/g/Losmandy_users/attachment/83850/1" loading="lazy" class="myimg-responsive"/></span><span style="font-family: sans-serif"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">In this picture the white object is the nylon/delron washer between the transmission mounting flange and the threaded aluminum post which will tighten against the nylon/delron washer.  This is how I think it should be, but want to make sure.  It has been ten years since I was inside this part of the mount.  AND YES SHAME ON ME for not paying attention when I took it apart today.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif">Any help would be appreciated.  Thank You.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: black">v/r</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: black"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: black"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="http://www.jagowds.com/_jap/sangre.shtml" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Chuck Jagow</span></a></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="https://www.darkskiescolorado.org/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">President â€� Dark Skies of the Wet Mountain Valley</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="https://townofwestcliffe.colorado.gov/government/town-board" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Member â€� Westcliffe Board of Trustees</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="https://www.wmvcf.org/nonprofit/the-bluff-project" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="color: #4e95d9">Member â€� Westcliffe Bluff Park Committee</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="https://csastro.org/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Member â€� Colorado Springs Astronomy Association</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="http://www.backbayastro.org/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Member - Back Bay Amateur Astronomers</span></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="http://www.jagowds.com/_jap/sangre.shtml" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Verdemont Observatory</span></a> - <a href="http://www.jagowds.com/_jap/jap_obs_1.shtml" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Rott&#39;n Paws Observatory</span></a> --- </span><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9">Gone...</span><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: sans-serif; color: #4e95d9"><a href="https://www.wunderground.com/weather/us/co/westcliffe" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="color: #4e95d9">Weather Guessing:</span></a> - <a href="https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KCOWESTC228" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="color: #4e95d9">Verdemont</span></a> - <a href="https://www.cleardarksky.com/c/SmkyJckObCOkey.html?1" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="color: #4e95d9">SJO CSC</span></a> - <a href="https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KCOWESTC154" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank"><span style="color: #4e95d9">Red House</span></a></span></b></p></div></div> chuck@... (charles jagow) Sat, 17 May 2025 19:19:28 -0700 /g/Losmandy_users/message/83849 <div>Thanks!</div> pootco@... (plinthley) Sat, 17 May 2025 15:08:39 -0700