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Hey there Chip.. Want to disassemble?? Absolutely not.. Too many questions of how tight, how loose, etc.. But I do love the design of the G11.. Elegant, yet simple, so I am not afraid to.. Especially

Fredrik, Is this a #492 digital drive GM8? I bought a demo GM8 with #492 digital drive looking for a lighter payload mount than my G11 for driveway duty on a JMI Wheely Bar and lighter payloads for

Hi Derek, Hmm, it sounds like you may have damaged a gearbox. The older gearboxes used soft plastic studs that were heated and pressed to form a bad rivet which retained the plate which supported

Hi Rodney, Ideally you want to snug the clutch knobs up just enough to hold and no more but it really makes about zero difference to the servomotors. Obviously there will be a very small additional

First, you should shoot for good balance of the load and then introduce a slight eastward bias. Clutch tight enough so that there is no slippage during imaging or slewing. Tom

Never tighten more than the minimum required to prevent slippage. Doing so dramatically increases drag due to (unnecessary) loading of the thrust bearings. Good Luck ! Jeff

That is my goal as well Brian, but I was just wondering how tight these clutches should be for all of the different modes, GOTO, tracking, etc... I had them really tight when i was learning this

I should clarify that I use it primarily for astrophotography and use computerized go-tos B

I just have a push-to GM-8, and a lot of times I'll reach down to loosen the clutch to go to another object and find them already "loose". I don't have to tighten mine much at all with C8's or an

Hand tightened is fine. you don’t have to crank them down. Also depends on the load. If it’s heavier it’s worth an extra confirming twist hth Thanks Brian Brian Valente

Tonight I will have this G11 out for the first time. I've had a few dry runs in the house just to become familiar with the working parts of the mount and Gemini 2 HC. My question. How tight should the

Heh, that's good to hear! I was hesitant to buy it at first since it was still just outside my budget for a mount that's 20 or so years old. I realized that most of the mount will stay the same

The sound in the video sounds a bit "plastic-y" instead of metallic which leads me to think it could be the gearbox. Hard to tell with the audio. Swapping motors might be informative, and/or

I just looked at my (two piece block / brass worms) on my G11.. Just like the rest of the easy to access parts, my grease looks fantastic.. My Mount *appears* to be 'like new'.. I actually see this as

+1 on Chip's Advice.. On all subjects.. :-)) Derek _____ Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 5:39 PM To: Losmandy_users@... Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: Super greasy worm gears on my GM8 +1

...ok, so I will respond to my own post, maybe for the aid of future generations... Although I could not see or detect any gapping between the bearing housings and center section as others have noted,

+1 on Chip's advice... I actually prefer older Losmandy mounts. Usually if they are working well, they keep working well. I always look for wear on the anodizing of the worm wheels, if they are well

Beautiful.. And yes, I would love to get together some time.. First I will continue on with cleaning and regreasing, as well as learning how to properly use the dang thing! New Question.. In reading

HI Derek, I guess that sound could possibly originate in loose "grub" screws that hold the Oldham coupler metal ends to the worm shaft (on one side) and the gearbox shaft (on the other side of

Wow! Look at all my new friends! :-)) I placed a wanted ad on Astromart for a G11 when I blew out the electronics on my Meade 12" LX200 Classic. By the springtime I will salvage my OTA and have it