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Bob, This depends on the total age of the scope, not just idle time. Sitting for 3 years might make the lubes drip through a bit, especially with higher temps. So we know the mount is 3 years + at

PE spikes can be caused by stiction which may be visualized as force ramping upward with a sudden release as the level of force applied overcomes the resistance present. There are two possibilities

Vincent has been so kind to contact with me to report that unfortunately he was unable to solve the problem and sold the mount, moving to a CEM60. His mount used a Gemini 1, so either the problem is

Losmandy will do that for you, surely, but maybe they are too busy to do it promptly. Basic maintenance is well covered in their videos (cleaning and re-greasing). Worm adjusting is more intimidating

Did you get those spikes in RA too?? ?I'm considering too slightly loosen the far end bottom screw to try to improve my RA performance. Peak values in RA are over 2.5" and those concern me more than

That's exactly what Brian says. He only refers to the far end screw that it is beneath the big spring screw though. Unscrew a little and that should free the worm enough to float over the gear.?

Bob your the perfect person don’t discredit your skills, attention to detail and analytical skills. there are plenty of dissemblely guides ?on the net and attention to order of washers. ?Take

Bubbles are my thing right now and this beautiful and popular supernova remnant does not disappoint. Two light years across and 1500 lights years away in the constellation of Aquila, which is sadly

I don't know that good lubricants would deteriorate appreciably in 3 years.? Does the mount work?

hello Bob Hancey, I am a member of the Sac Valley astro soc. we have a G11 mount (older mount) I am in the start of a rehab project for this mount. My greatest concern is that lubricants on the

There is nothing else that can cause this in a clean undamaged unmodified G11 or GM8 mount with tucked servos and sprung Gen II OPWs. -- Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware Astropheric

Sam, I appreciate your kind comments.? The telescope is Newtonian 12" truss F3.9 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZzmiLg_Rys&t=6s ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZzmiLg_Rys&t=6s ) Camera is an ASI

” If your back off screw doesn't seem to be working it could be that the bottom cap screws are just a bit too snug to let the OPW move. If they are just a little bit too snug they lock the OPW into

Agree, Peter- really astonishing! Rivals Hubble images imho. I especially like the dynamic quality of the image, or percussion effect, as you describe. Can you share any other technical information

Mark glad to hear things improved haha yes, i love that sentiment ;)

Also, when you have good models for both sides, and you don't move the mount, you can either reset CWD and use Warm Start, or just power up and use Warm Restart.. Both use the model you made

Going to the west side, I told it to go to Mizar. It was not very close (not on the finder, but it was on the Telrad). I centered, clicked Menu>Align>Alignment. And declared victory for the modeling.

Hi Mark, Sounds like you're making progress! The thing about Gemini model is that it can take into account additional variables, like axis non-perpendicularity or even mirror flop, if you add a few

Very good, Mark,...that you got back to useability. There can be also good value to dig into why the pointing may be imperfect, if you now, having built a Model using your Gemini: Look at the model

We had a clear night tonight, with no wind or moon. So out I went again. After polar aligning with Polemaster (probably not necessary, since the tripod hadn’t moved, but good practice), I turned off