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Bob H. here, though I have one of the newer G211g and have yet to try my hand at astrophotography and new to commenting in this forum ( so please forgive any ignorance on my part). Comments seem to be

For me, the knobs that allow you to secure the mount to the tripod with no wrench are invaluable as I have to set up each night. However, I have noticed they loosen up a bit during the evening (maybe

Any accessory that replaces using a wrench in the dark with a knob is a good choice, in my opinion. Happy shopping!

How do I do that?

Peter, 800 msec is for the gearbox only, with the 6.5 sec worm backlash the total is 7.3 sec; ?completely unguidable. Assuming the gearbox backlash is fairly constant with temperature, the TVC could

Chip, That's very interesting. I have posted here quite a bit about the caged bearings, but actually I might prefer the full compliment ones. They seem smoother. The thing is the shaft, at least mine,

Eric, So I'm focused on three things. The needle bearings. I've changed these out and added a third, but I will have more to say on that later. I have not touched my worm setup since last reading to

Allen, Brilliant tip!

Sounds like mine. Maybe a half octave higher pitch but same decibel level.

I had the same doubts as Alan when i first got my G811G last month. I compared the noise with my OnStep GM8 which is completely silent and was worried I had installed the motors wrong. Brian told me

My 2005 vintage G11 has caged needle bearings supporting the RA and DEC axles. I have rebuilt several G11 mounts for friends and club members and some may have been newer than mine but almost all had

*The two transfer gears appear to have a dark grey lube on them.* The grease does darken over time, even if using clear Superlube. Metal fines and aluminum oxide from the gears starts to taint the

Related question, which I hope isn't too far off this topic: Has anyone who's adjusted the motors to reduce noise also measured before-and-after PE FFT charts? I am curious whether the mechanical

Hi Alan, There is a simple mechanical procedure to assure accurate CWD: Tools: a short "torpedo level". Procedure: Put your counterweight bar horizontal. Level the counterweight bar with the torpedo

I'm curious what results you are getting with the Sharpcap PA process? Precise CWD hasn't been required in any of the mounts or techniques i've used for polar alignment including Sharpcap I've found

Peter, The backlash on my original Losmandy gearbox is 800 msec. With the gearbox installed on the motor and half the coupling on the output shaft, I took two pictures of the coupling on the output

Where did u clip the laser, and was the worm "loaded normally"? We'll have to see the PHD backlash graphs to figure out what is going on. Dirty little secret : Start the guiding assistant, then click

Alen, first what a great great piece you wrote on backlash. From the graphs you posted I might be too tight? Second, you mentioned going to I think guiding rate and counting. You say you counted 2a

Hi everyone, Simple question I need to ask the group. I ordered GM811 in June, and it will be my first Losmandy mount. In the order I had added the CKS knob upgrade. I did not know if I should have

Other than doing the initial rough alignment on the pole, why would the accurate CWD position matter? If you follow up with any other type of polar alignment routine, the accuracy of the initial