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Hi, I can't give you numerical data but I use a W.O. Megrez 102/7 ED refractor also. My targets are variables for differential photometry, maximum exposure is 300 seconds. I guide with an Orion 80/400

Out of curiosity, how do you deal with imperfect worms? Both of mine are slightly out of round such that the friction changes as the worm turns. Currently I split the difference but is his

Hello all I've started to use PHD2 on a 10 year old G11 Digital Drive system (with the old two piece worm block and standard worm). The guiding system was a 50 mm Altair guidescope (with focal length

Hi Anthony, I spent quite a bit of time with Scott on this and you actually want no friction in there just at the point where there is no friction. It’s hard to convey that in a video I know but

So my Dec was making a creaking noise, and in my efforst to troubleshoot it, I removed the motor, gear box assembly, and made adjustments to the spring loaded worm, (SLW). The issue turned out to be

Sorry, I forgot to add that I find that Polemaster uses significant CPU resources while running. Similar to Stellarium on my mini-PC with its Celeron. It could be that you reach 100% CPU utilization

Just as a data point..... I am a new Polemaster user and I have had absolutely ZERO issues with it other than having to re-focus the camera. The software runs perfectly on my little mini-PC at the

FWIW, this is the mini-PC I use at the scope https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F5BKMFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I run everything on it.... NINA, PHD2, Polemaster,

Ok. Maybe Microbes-oft affected my Polemaster session. But I was also plugged in and not knowingly on power savings mode. Or the USB-3 hub. Or....etc etc. It is a fine line to walk when you create a

Brian, NO but that may be changing soon.... Can you recommend a small, inexpensive PC computer for use just on my photography hobby (er...money pit?)? Thanks Tom --- bvalente@... wrote: From:

oh man, i have not heard good things about the mac version :( i don't suppose you have a PC laptop around? tcoverda@...> wrote:

I run my *Mount Computer* in settings for: Do not use power saving when plugged in. (And it is always plugged in at the mount in use) Do not sleep when plugged in. (The display) Also, no Automatic

This is the nice benefit of having this (worldwide) forum to exchange experiences and ideas. So... To respond to Brian's comment, I'd say that my overall experience with PoleMaster was positive. Many

For reference: Video point at 1:28 >. ( https://youtu.be/LmcEYhat7jE?t=88 ) Video point at 2:19 > . ( https://youtu.be/LmcEYhat7jE?t=139 ) At this point, about all that is left is to test it, and try

Michael, Thanks for all the wonderful info and I now think part (or most) of my problem maybe that I am using the latest Mac beta version of Polemaster. I did download and try the earlier version but

restarting, they popped into focus nicely. I don't see where it's necessary to refocus the camera but if there's a way I wantta know! that sounds to me like maybe dew on the polemaster lens? there

Any tricks needed to know in order to do that? mmm... not really. you set up polemaster camera in the same way, then select polemaster in sharpcap as a camera, and then follow the polar align wizard

Unless they have changed the design, the focus is locked with a small allen screw on the side of the barrel that has to be loosened before you can actually turn the barrel to focus. Like the OP, mine

Thanks Michael...good to know! Stu wrote:

Dear Stu, The PoleMaster parts are shown on this website: https://cloudbreakoptics.com/products/polemaster?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgo_kw4Pd7QIVJz6tBh0EsQ8qEAAYAiAAEgLD_vD_BwE From there, I grabbed this