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And it is a learned art. Like muscle memory, or the right Thumb Tight. The parts are all as precision machined as is possible. But everything has to be broken in. And the human touch allows for the

Hi Al blocks perpendicular to the ring gear. can you snap a picture of exactly which screws you are referring to? I just want to be clear on this recommendations. When i'm tracking, no motors really

Hi Robert i don't think you necessarily need smaller pixels, but posting your guidelogs would help clarify that Within the last few years PHD has done an excellent job in sub-pixel accuracy, down to

Hi Thanks to everyone for your recommendations and advice on selecting and mounting a Guidescope on my G11. Regards Terry

HI folks, I've been reading this thread with interest having performed the same operation lately myself. I'm wondering exactly what the role is of the two screws that pull the blocks perpendicular to

Thanks Brian - yes I think it is all working as it should but I need to change the guide camera to get a lower number of arc seconds per pixel - with the camera/scope combination I used it was at

Thanks John - that document looks really useful

Hi Ian You would need to upload your guidelog to see what is going on I am happy to look at it, but you may also be better off posting to the PHD forums from what little i can see in your screen

Hi Ian, Please see attached document about analyzing your PHD2 guiding. From a glance at your guide output, the regular sine wave pattern in RA suggests regular periodic error your mount is trying to

Because of the relatively high spring tension and critical adjustment of the stop screw, VERY small worm eccentricities will have a large effect on the drag. I don't think anything is bent or

you're right - things that are best done "by touch" are tough to describe in writing I can just relate my experience, which I think mirrors yours i did a bunch of these with Scott and I initially

Hi Paul, That "out of round" observation sounds like something could be damaged or mis-assembled., or just a bad component. There is virtually no way a new component would be "out of round", but... it

Paul- I have had similar concerns about the very slight eccentricity of the main gear. As you slew around the circumference of it, if the worm is too tight, you can hear the motor working harder. This

Brian- This is such a "feel" based thing that I think it's difficult to convey in an online discussion. Like adjusting valves in an engine or a bicycle hub correctly... Put it this way, tightening of

Stephen - it sounds like you have it nailed. We should probably be asking *you* for advice :)

Well, the clouds cleared and the wind died down, so I started to stage the equipment outside around 5pm, and that pissed off Mother Nature apparently - she turned the wind back on. Put everything back

I have a G1 in with a damaged HC case. Does anyone know what brand and model that case is? Thanks David

adjust so that there is no added resistance at the TIGHTEST portion of the worm rotation? it's a two-part answer first, yes you split the difference. It's the same advice as with a non-spring loaded

Well, of course the weather is not cooperating, cloudy and windy here today, so doubt I'll get it out tonight.? I spent some time familarizing myself with the mount, get my scope on a Losmandy plate

Hi, I can't give you numerical data but I use a W.O. Megrez 102/7 ED refractor also. My targets are variables for differential photometry, maximum exposure is 300 seconds. I guide with an Orion 80/400