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Thanks Michael. I’ll be giving it a go with the Air once I’ve got the cable made up and some clear sky!

before connecting the Air. just curious why you had to do that? I would assume ASIAir does plate solve and supports blind solving? [email protected]> wrote: -- Brian Brian

Thanks for the replies. With the AVX I had to do an align in the mount before connecting the Air. from the responses, it sounds like this is not necessary with Gemini. I’ll hopefully have the

No. I think there's some confusion about exactly what the model is and does, and how it relates to programs that plate solve If you are using an imaging application that provides plate solving, you

Hi, I often do a Warm Start, using the prior night's model which is always saved in the SRAM. Or I may choose Cold start, skip the "Align to 1st bright star" step, and just use Stellarium with

If you are having to set up your mount each night, then I wouldn't bother with building a model. Keep in mind the model only improves go-to accuracy. Once it arrives at the target, the model does

So does the mount have to have a model in before using the ASIAir, achieved by warm starting? If you cold started, as I have to set up each night, would I have to get a mount model made before

Hi John, Also make note of the worm material color. The original worms were silver that oxidized to a brownish color and they were fine for visual use but not great for imaging. The later HP (High

Les, Brian, I used to eyeball it but that gave me sort of inconsistent results, stacks on stacks as it were. I was already guesstimating the position to position the reticle based on the

Brian, We have more common experiences than is allowed here. I just left them in the mounts NOT because I'm lazy but mostly due to inertia. Because - a) they don't get in the way, b) by leaving them

You can also swap the worms. Sometimes the DEC worm will be better (half the time in general!). Better if you can perform a PE evaluation and quantify the PE of each worm. New brass high precision

The ?stars are gradually moving in one direction. Have a Feathertouch focuser that I lock down after focus. I always retighten Alt and Az after Sharp Cap polar align and check for any changes. I'm

Thanks Michael, I'll swap the RA and Dec Motors and see what happens as I mentioned the RA worm gear is questionable. Thanks!

Thanks Michael, I found it. Tom

you can kind of eyeball the precession too fortunately my reticle is good through 2030

An out-of-date polar scope reticle will work fine for visual use. Even if it’s 40 years out of date, the resulting polar misalignment will cause a drift of only a few arc seconds per minute.

Chip i think you and I have/had a similar experience! i'm very lucky and fortunate i kept my polar scope, mostly out of laziness haha. but now I picked up a LW tripod and hope to do more

Hi Brian, I found it funny that the PoleMaster was so amazingly essential to me that I almost sold off all my Losmandy Polar scopes thinking who needs them? But I also came to realize that if I'm not

Hi Tom The PECprep.exe is made by the EQMOD owners group for the Orion EQ6 mounts. Please look for links to download EQNOD and you will find PECPrep there in the list of downloads. It will analyze

Clicking through your subs in rapid succession can reveal a lot. - If the stars are gradually moving in one direction, it is most likely - Polar misalignment.? If your polar alignment looks super in