Re: LW Tripod and spreader
I paid $700 for a GM8 that was late enough to have the precision worms.?
Don't forget the MA Losmandy to Meade HD field tripod adapter. Combo should cost about half the price of the GM8's tripod.
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To the OP?
It seems to me that your pointing errors on slewing are mechanical.?
Is the scope balanced in RA and DEC?
Have you tried slowing down the GoTo speed to see if things improve???
Mechanical slippage can easily occur at the couplers between the gear box and the worm. I've had that happen and it's frustrating as heck.??
Please check those 4 small set screws on each. The worm shafts have a flat but the gear box shaft does not.?
If it slips under the torque of slew starts it would give you exactly the problem you describe.?
Michael?
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Mark,
I have always downloaded the file to a microSD card and then swapped it with the microSD card from the case.
The instructions are here?
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On 16 Aug 2022, at 5:26:41 am, Mark de Regt < deregt@...> wrote:
Bear with me while I try to scrape myself off the ceiling. ? I do hate practically everything about this mount and its electronics! ? With that out of the way¡. ? Since it had been two years since I had used the miserable thing (have I mentioned that it really works poorly?), I put a new battery in then main board.? Then I tried to update the firmware. ? There is nothing I can do to coax any computer in the house to do that.? The Gemini 2 shows up on the network, but it is deaf to ping, and will not connect to any computer. ? Any ideas? ? Mark ? ? Thanks! ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Put the Counterweight bar horizontal , use the clutch knob as needed, and level with a torpedo level.. Spin the RA dial and set it to something like 18 hours.. Loosen clutch and lower the Counterweight bar and set it at 0 hours.. Lock the clutch.. Loosen the other clutch and adjust the scope until the level on the dovetail is centered.. Tighten clutch.. Your visual, so do this ¡°well¡± but do not obsess with it.. I have a solution for you to try.. Just worked perfectly for me.. First time and I am quite pleased about it! See next email.. It¡¯ll take a minute.. Derek ? ? Agreed about ¡°should.¡±??? ? What is the best method for making sure I have CWD a good as possible? ? ? Mark, Assuming you are polar aligned it is not just the CWD position that matters but the top of the dovetail should also be levelled, both with a small level. This is easy and quick and should get you fairly close. Then centre the star and synchronise the first star. If you are not so closely polar aligned then take the time to do alignments on three or more stars spread across the sky. This sill build a pretty accurate model and no camera is required. It will need to be rebuilt if you move the mount, but should only require a synchronisation if you only warm start. ? ? On 7 Aug 2022, at 8:41:23 am, Mark de Regt < deregt@...> wrote: ? I really appreciate all the suggstions! Two things have resonated: - I only guestimate CWD position with my eye.? If precision of CWD matters, and if there is a simple way to get it perfect, that may be the cause.
- People keep taking about using plate-solve to work around the poorly-functioning Gemini2 model building.
- I need a camera to do that; I¡¯m happy to buy a cheap camera for that, but not an expensive one; any suggestions?
- I own TheSkyX Professional Edition, a very powerful planetarium program.? Would this do that is being suggested, and, if so, how?
?
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Hi Frankie,
Look at the pics of your setup, I noticed your guide scope is in a fixed saddle. When in this configuration, you have no latitude to center the guide scope with the center of the imaging camera. If you have a crosshairs function on your imaging app you should compare to that of the guide scope to see how far off you are. If both are not pretty close to the center of the FOV, you can start having issues like frame drift over time, or frame rotation - both of which will create wasted margins in your final image stack and not utilize the full dimensions of the imaging sensor.?
This is why most guide scopes are mounted in adjustable ring brackets like on Derek's rig, so you can tweak the position so both camera centers are directly aligned.
Regards,
John
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_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Losmandy G11G2 on pier; SkyShed design roll-off observatory; ZWO ASI2600MM-P; ZWO ASI071MC; Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 ED; Celestron C925 Edge HD with 0.7XFR, William Optics Zenithstar 61 APO; PHD2, Sequence Generator Pro and PixInsight user
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Hi Brian,
Thanks for the reply. I just sent a support ticket request to the address you indicated.
Thanks,
Frankie
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Hi Frankie
can you please open a support ticket with us - there are some things you are doing and some advice you are getting that i think is outdated
techsupport at losmandy dot com
thanks
Brian
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Mark go into your ? and check the network settings.?? Note this has an address of 192.168.0.150 not the normal 192.168.0.111 because the DHCP has give the system this address.?? DHCP does that.?? Our course you can set the system to resolve the Gemini name thru , this kinda ? ? Then you can just type "http://gemini"?? Viola!
Ensure you boot the router/network before the Gemini
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Brendan
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Yes, it's the current official release. We are in beta on L6
On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 2:00 PM Mark de Regt < deregt@...> wrote: Got it; mine¡¯s 5.21.? Is that current? Or at least current enough? ? ? Mark that's the hand controller version. the gemini version would be something like 5.20, 5.21, etc. ? On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 12:32 PM Mark de Regt <deregt@...> wrote: I agree; I am very grateful for all the time people have put into helping me.? But this thing refuses to do its part. ? BTW, my Gemini 2 is on version 1.20, March 12, 2017.? Is there a more recent version in the unlikely event that I ever get a computer to connect to the thing? ? ? I do want to add to my 'complaint' in this thread that Brian and others have been very helpful though havnt been able to get thru to me yet.
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-- Brian?
Brian Valente astro portfolio? portfolio astrobin?
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Got it; mine¡¯s 5.21.? Is that current? Or at least current enough? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian Valente Sent: Monday, August 15, 2022 12:35 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Usability Question ? Mark that's the hand controller version. the gemini version would be something like 5.20, 5.21, etc. ? On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 12:32 PM Mark de Regt <deregt@...> wrote: I agree; I am very grateful for all the time people have put into helping me.? But this thing refuses to do its part. ? BTW, my Gemini 2 is on version 1.20, March 12, 2017.? Is there a more recent version in the unlikely event that I ever get a computer to connect to the thing? ? ? I do want to add to my 'complaint' in this thread that Brian and others have been very helpful though havnt been able to get thru to me yet.
--
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Mark that's the hand controller version. the gemini version would be something like 5.20, 5.21, etc.
On Mon, Aug 15, 2022 at 12:32 PM Mark de Regt < deregt@...> wrote: I agree; I am very grateful for all the time people have put into helping me.? But this thing refuses to do its part. ? BTW, my Gemini 2 is on version 1.20, March 12, 2017.? Is there a more recent version in the unlikely event that I ever get a computer to connect to the thing? ? ? I do want to add to my 'complaint' in this thread that Brian and others have been very helpful though havnt been able to get thru to me yet.
-- Brian?
Brian Valente astro portfolio? portfolio astrobin?
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I agree; I am very grateful for all the time people have put into helping me.? But this thing refuses to do its part. ? BTW, my Gemini 2 is on version 1.20, March 12, 2017.? Is there a more recent version in the unlikely event that I ever get a computer to connect to the thing? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of George Anderson Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2022 10:45 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Usability Question ? I do want to add to my 'complaint' in this thread that Brian and others have been very helpful though havnt been able to get thru to me yet.
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Bear with me while I try to scrape myself off the ceiling. ? I do hate practically everything about this mount and its electronics! ? With that out of the way¡. ? Since it had been two years since I had used the miserable thing (have I mentioned that it really works poorly?), I put a new battery in then main board.? Then I tried to update the firmware. ? There is nothing I can do to coax any computer in the house to do that.? The Gemini 2 shows up on the network, but it is deaf to ping, and will not connect to any computer. ? Any ideas? ? Mark ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Mark de Regt via groups.io Sent: Sunday, August 7, 2022 8:58 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users_io] Usability Question ? Thanks! ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Put the Counterweight bar horizontal , use the clutch knob as needed, and level with a torpedo level.. Spin the RA dial and set it to something like 18 hours.. Loosen clutch and lower the Counterweight bar and set it at 0 hours.. Lock the clutch.. Loosen the other clutch and adjust the scope until the level on the dovetail is centered.. Tighten clutch.. Your visual, so do this ¡°well¡± but do not obsess with it.. I have a solution for you to try.. Just worked perfectly for me.. First time and I am quite pleased about it! See next email.. It¡¯ll take a minute.. Derek ? ? Agreed about ¡°should.¡±? ? ? What is the best method for making sure I have CWD a good as possible? ? ? Mark, Assuming you are polar aligned it is not just the CWD position that matters but the top of the dovetail should also be levelled, both with a small level. This is easy and quick and should get you fairly close. Then centre the star and synchronise the first star. If you are not so closely polar aligned then take the time to do alignments on three or more stars spread across the sky. This sill build a pretty accurate model and no camera is required. It will need to be rebuilt if you move the mount, but should only require a synchronisation if you only warm start. ? ? On 7 Aug 2022, at 8:41:23 am, Mark de Regt <deregt@...> wrote: ? I really appreciate all the suggstions! Two things have resonated: - I only guestimate CWD position with my eye.? If precision of CWD matters, and if there is a simple way to get it perfect, that may be the cause.
- People keep taking about using plate-solve to work around the poorly-functioning Gemini2 model building.
- I need a camera to do that; I¡¯m happy to buy a cheap camera for that, but not an expensive one; any suggestions?
- I own TheSkyX Professional Edition, a very powerful planetarium program.? Would this do that is being suggested, and, if so, how?
?
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Well, I already found the solution for the sidereal speed problem and not being able to make an alignment, it was my mistake when entering the coordinates in their place, although they were the correct ones, I was changing their places, the latitude in the longitude and vice versa, I was telling the gemini that I was in another part of the planet, once I realized my mistake I corrected it and yesterday I had an excellent night, being able to handle it with the pc and cartes du ciel, so it was my fault that the mount worked wrong.
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Re: LW Tripod and spreader
Oh, forgot to mention that if going strictly visual you should look for a used GM8 with a #492 digital drive and spend the money you saved over a Gemini on the Nexus DSC.
If you shop carefully you should be able to find a used GM8 digital drive and LWT you could be into the whole thing for under $1,500-$1,700 including a new DSC.?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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Re: LW Tripod and spreader
LOL,? this is what happens to people with a full G11G and HD or FHD who image. They want to go and observe visually and the HD/FHD and 10+ extra pounds of G11G vs GM8G becomes very real not to mention that even the relatively svelte FHD while an amazing solid tripod while imaging is a heavy, bulky tripod and major overkill for visual.use and the LWT can more than double your weight savings.?
Ken if you do not plan to image using the much more compact lighter GM8G and LWT setup they will be more than adequate for up to a C11 SCT or something like a TEC140. I have been using 10" LX200 and C11 SCT OTAs on my old GM8 now a GM8G for many years without issue. I also use.it.with the bespoke Parallax/AT130 SDT apo which at 28+ poumds naked is heaviwr than the C11.?
Is the GM8G as solid in the wind with nearly 30 pounds in the saddle? Of course not but it is about 20 pounds lighter and stows a lot easier in modern car trunks than my G11G and FHD or Berlebach Planet and it is hard to see a difference at the eyepiece.?
I long ago added Astro Devices 310K encoders and the crazy good Nexus DSC with SkySafari6 Pro for simple push-to observing. This is they way these mounts were meant to be used, balanced and clutches left free to push the scope around the sky with two fingers.?
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Chip Louie Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware?
? ?Astropheric Weather Forecast - South Pasadena, CA?
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I have (or, hopefully, had) the same problem that I just posted in this thread?(also check the link in it).? I have the two-piece worm block.? After checking the alignment of the blocks, I concluded that I had to shim the blocks on the outside/bottom in order to get the bearings aligned properly.? It is a bit difficult to judge the alignment as there is some play in the bearings and squeezing the blocks in the middle vs. a bit off to the side makes a difference.? I use the cover plate to visually compare the alignment against, when squeezing the blocks (everything off the mount of course).? After one test it looked like the 76 s error was reduced quite a bit, and the autoguiding errors had improved a lot resulting in equal RMS whereas before this it was always larger in RA resulting in elliptical stars.? This is just from one test so take it FWIW. I presume that when you loosen the cover / one-piece assembly screws the blocks will have some play around the screw axis which will let you do the same.? If you just shim the outer block at the outside bottom area, that should be easy to try and see if it improves things.? You want to first tighten the bottom screws to pull the shimmed block down then tighten the cover screws, or else the last part of the cover screw turn can actually skew the position of the block - and it only takes a tiny little bit to skew the bearings enough that you will get the 76 s harmonic.? Then you can either loosen the bottom screw or leave it depending on whether you want the SLW enabled or a fixed configuration (or whatever Losmandy's instructions are - I don't have the one-piece worm assembly).? Not guaranteed to work but it seems to have worked for me (my 2-block assembly that may be different enough from yours that this idea has no merit). Check also if the bearing is intact, who knows a bearing ball may be damaged - I have one, awaiting new bearings now.
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I am looking at adding a TAK TSA-120 refractor to my kit as? a good scope and to travel with. To support this I see a couple of options to mount it - (1) to buy a GM8 w LW tripod or (2) buy a LW tripod for my G11G.
Would anyone have an experienced perspective on the (2) choice? If it is an option, is the spreader a must have?
Appreciate your constructive insights.
Thanks,
Ken
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I was able to setup again last night and take some more test runs. Following Mark's suggestion, I recorded three runs with Hysteresis: 0, RA aggressiveness: 50 at guide rate: 0.5x. I did this for 3, 2 and 1 second exposures. I also did an additional test using 2 second exposures with the default PPEC algorithm.
Here's a recap of the RMS results:
3 second exposures: RA 1.16" / Total: 1.24"
2 second exposures: RA 1.00" / Total: 1.33"
1 second exposures: RA 0.81" / Total: 0.93"
PPEC 2 second exposures: RA: 0.79" / Total: 0.90"
The total RMS looks like it's skewed higher by some strong deviations in Dec. I had to setup from scratch last night and it looks like my polar alignment can use some work. The RA RMS definitely looks like it's trending lower with lower exposures, however it looks like this confirms Mark's suspicion that this is the 76s error. Is there any other way to mitigate this through guiding or does this require mechanical adjustments? Any suggestions on next steps are most welcome!
-Frankie
Here's a screenshot from the PHD Log Viewer Analysis for the 1 second exposure run:
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Derek,
That's a nice setup and those are some pretty good guiding results. Glad that's working out for you and thanks for sharing! It seems likely though that my issue is not related to my guide scope, so the investigation continues.
-Frankie
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Jamie Amendolagine
Davidspain
Chip Louie