¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: G11 cable management

 

I have had some success using automotive wire protectors for enclosing the cables on my GM-8. They are split down the side and a 3/4" tube can enclose five or six usb, power or video cables. I have posted a picture of my setup in 'Avalon Observatory'. The virtue of these protector sheaths is that they are stiff enough to stand off the mount so don't get tangles in the same way a more flexible bundle might. One end is fixed to the pier surround and it wraps around the mount before being brought out to the equipment. Originally I used cable ties but am now using long velcro strips. I no longer use the aluminum rod shown in the picture -- it tended to collide with the DEC motor... it was sufficient to velcro things to the focuser extension to avoid dragging on the camera.

greg latiak
avalon observatory


Re: G11 cable management

 

Yes Magnus, that is pretty clear.? Good, creative work!

Thanks,

Dale


Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi!

I uploaded 3 photos of the box in the same folder, called powerbox_1, 2 and 3. You see the connections on one side, going out (cables in some) and one Anderson Powerpole on the other side, taking 12 V from the AC-DC-converter. The Raspberry sits on top. Inside, the bit white connectors are where the current is split to all the outlets. The 12 V goes straight through. The 7.6 V goes through the thing in the middle, with the heat sinks. And the 5 V comes out of the black box (literally - it can not be opened :)). You find these easily on Ebay.

Magnus


Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi!

I use a AC-DC converter to transform the 220 V AC we have here, to 12 V DC. This 12 V then goes into my power box. I have 4 anderson power pole outlets, to which this 12 V is just passed on. Then I have 2 microphone outlets (different so I will not mix them up in the darkness) connected to a small device (don't know the english name) that takes in 12 V and lets out something else that I can adjust - bought on Ebay for a few dollars at most. I set it to put out 7.6 V, which is what the Canon DSLR takes. Then there is a 12 V -> 5 V transformer, also from Ebay, very cheap, giving me 2 outlets of 5 V for the USB hub and the Raspberry Pi, that sits on top of the small box, controlling the mount and scope and everything.

It took me an hour perhaps to design the box, choose a plastic box and decide on the outlets, Then half an hour to find the things on Ebay, then a month for them to come from China, then an hour to solder it all together. Cost almost nothing. Works like a charm. What I really wanted, was a was to have a consistent setup independent on power source (AC or car battery).

Does it make sense?

Magnus


Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi Magnus,

Yes, that's what I was looking for.? Specific info. on data and power cables.? Does the use of an AC-DC converter give you the various voltage outputs like 12v, 7v, 6v and 5v?

Thank you,

Dale


Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi Chip,
I went to the Losmandy site and saw the G11RA-AXIS ($995) and it looked like that was what was needed to get a tucked motor onto my mount.? From your description, it sounds like that is not the part I need. However Chip, if the unit needs to be shipped to Scott (could exceed $300) for the upgrades and your price was $950 including the RAEXK, the final price does actually sound pretty close to I was talking about.? I'll contact Losmandy directly to ask about the upgrade.?

Thank you.

Dale


Re: G11 cable management

 

well...:) of all the strange stuff I put on my scope, I wasn't aware of a cow...:)

Magnus


Re: G11 cable management

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Holy Cow!

?

Wow..

?

Derek

?


From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2017 1:28 AM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 cable management

?

?

Hi!

I'm note sure I really understand your situation, but the concept of cable management resonates heavily with me. Here is a bunch of pictures of my rig.



I run entirely on AC, as it 95% of the time is in my back yard. I have built a small "power box", in the plastic box below the tripod. This can be fed with 12 V DC, that can come either from a AC-DC converter (in the lowest box) or a car battery - connections are Anderson power poles. From this power box, everything else is powered. There is 12 V, 7,6 V, and 5 V outputs, for mount, dew heaters, focuser, USB-hub and DSLR-camera (possibly forgot something).

Then ther is the USB-hub, that I placed on the mount, not the OTA (found that easier). There is 4-5 cables running up to the scope, collected in the black "hose". Thing is, the black hose runs up over the mount. I found that important to create both flexibility and to have it as "tight" to the mount as possible. It is loosely connected at places with zip-ties and velcro strips, so it is not too loose. For instance, there is a zip-tie noose around the focuser, so the cable does not hang free there.

And yes,there are a few unused cables running to the camera. Was for my 350D that I just exchange for another DSLR.

I hope this is useful or gives some ideas.

Magnus

?

Virus-free.


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Magnus,?

No problems. Three days ago officially became a senior citizen and noticed what comes along with age.? ?:-)

Don?

Verizon Wireless 4G LTE


-------- Original message --------
From: "jfev5mnsvqiyzpq756wvokt55jve7sbg2esr5mip@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...>
Date: 12/02/2017 8:10 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] High precison worm vs OPW-11?

Hi!

Great thanks. Yes, you probably did... I'm prone to loose myself somewhat in this discussion group format...

Best,

Magnus


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

Hi!

Great thanks. Yes, you probably did... I'm prone to loose myself somewhat in this discussion group format...

Best,

Magnus


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

Magnus,

Yes. Thought I already answered that. The brass worm was available before the OPW.

Don

----- Original Message -----
From: "jfev5mnsvqiyzpq756wvokt55jve7sbg2esr5mip@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...>
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2017 2:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] High precison worm vs OPW-11?


Hi guys!

My big question remains - can I use the high precision worm with my existing black blocks, or do I need the One Piece system? That is, can I just buy the far cheaper worm, or do I need the full, more expensive, OPW device?

Magnus


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

Chip,

I'm running the Sidereal Technologies Servo System on my mount. Have made many improvements to my 1995 mount. Using belt drive with tucked under motors and have spring loaded the worms for no backlash. I am a home machinist and made all the customs parts needed.

Don

----- Original Message -----
From: "chiplouie@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...>
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2017 3:55 AM
Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?


Hi Don,

I think you can get significantly better/lower error rates by switching to the HP-worm and new OPW on the RA axis only. This runs about $275 plus shipping, well worth the money. I say this not because the HP-worm itself is so much better than the old worm (depends on which version worms you have) but because you will save so much time messing with trying to get your standard 2-piece worm setup not only square with each other, on the same axis and under enough bearing preload on the axis of the bearings that you will sing out loud. Of course people will think you are nuts but if they are out there in the dark with you they should not be throwing any stones if you know what I mean. That's the trick and it is very hard to get just right consistently and your gear mesh will change as temperatures rise and fall. IF you get the gear mesh just right in the daytime when the temps fall as they tend to do your geartrain will slowly get tighter and tighter until the RA is lagging and ultimately stalls. This is very easy to resolve with any of the OPWs, you just loosen the fastener on side of the OPW and give the adjustment screw a nudge and snug the fastener down and you are GTG. This take less than a minute to do. and the bearings will always be perfectly aligned and under the correct preload.


My advice is that Scott know these mounts very well and has had to repair every possible yahoo's "improvements" to his mounts out there. Trust me when I say don't try to polish the worms, there is much better low hanging fruit which cause a lot fewer issues if things go sideways. I mean it's a lot cheaper to buy the HP-worm and new OPW than it is to also have to by a new worm wheel because you over did the polishing job or it wore through the anodizing and the worm chewed through the alloy worm wheel.


Chip



Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi Dale,

I have no idea where you got that pricing for the tucked motor update but it sounds incorrect. I had already installed a full new Gemini 2-mini with HT servomotors and HP-worms on both the RA and DEC axes. When the tucked motor updates first became available I took my G11 to Scott for the update. Scott did the tucked motor update, installed the RAEXK along with a pair of the new OPW blocks and reused my existing very good HP-worms. I know Scott, he personally does all of the update work. The parts and labor were about $950 before sales tax. This was a several months ago so call and ask for current pricing.?

Chip


Re: G11 cable management

 

Hi!

I'm note sure I really understand your situation, but the concept of cable management resonates heavily with me. Here is a bunch of pictures of my rig.



I run entirely on AC, as it 95% of the time is in my back yard. I have built a small "power box", in the plastic box below the tripod. This can be fed with 12 V DC, that can come either from a AC-DC converter (in the lowest box) or a car battery - connections are Anderson power poles. From this power box, everything else is powered. There is 12 V, 7,6 V, and 5 V outputs, for mount, dew heaters, focuser, USB-hub and DSLR-camera (possibly forgot something).

Then ther is the USB-hub, that I placed on the mount, not the OTA (found that easier). There is 4-5 cables running up to the scope, collected in the black "hose". Thing is, the black hose runs up over the mount. I found that important to create both flexibility and to have it as "tight" to the mount as possible. It is loosely connected at places with zip-ties and velcro strips, so it is not too loose. For instance, there is a zip-tie noose around the focuser, so the cable does not hang free there.

And yes,there are a few unused cables running to the camera. Was for my 350D that I just exchange for another DSLR.

I hope this is useful or gives some ideas.

Magnus


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

Hi Don,

I think you can get significantly better/lower error rates by switching to the HP-worm and new OPW on the RA axis only. This runs about $275 plus shipping, well worth the money. I say this not because the HP-worm itself is so much better than the old worm (depends on which version worms you have) but because you will save so much time messing with trying to get your standard 2-piece worm setup not only square with each other, on the same axis and under enough bearing preload on the axis of the bearings that you will sing out loud. Of course people will think you are nuts but if they are out there in the dark with you they should not be throwing any stones if you know what I mean.?That's the trick and it is very hard to get just right consistently and your gear mesh will change as temperatures rise and fall. IF you get the gear mesh just right in the daytime when the temps fall as they tend to do your geartrain will slowly get tighter and tighter until the RA is lagging and ultimately stalls. This is very easy to resolve with any of the OPWs, you just loosen the fastener on side of the OPW and give the adjustment screw a nudge and snug the fastener down and you are GTG. This take less than a minute to do. and the bearings will always be perfectly aligned and under the correct preload.?

My advice is that Scott know these mounts very well and has had to repair every possible yahoo's "improvements" to his mounts out there. Trust me when I say don't try to polish the worms, there is much better low hanging fruit which cause a lot fewer issues if things go sideways. I mean it's a lot cheaper to buy the HP-worm and new OPW than it is to also have to by a new worm wheel because you over did the polishing job or it wore through the anodizing and the worm chewed through the alloy worm wheel.?

Chip


Re: High precison worm vs OPW-11?

 

Hi guys!

My big question remains - can I use the high precision worm with my existing black blocks, or do I need the One Piece system? That is, can I just buy the far cheaper worm, or do I need the full, more expensive,? OPW device?

Magnus


Re: G11 cable management

 

Thank you Brian.? I looked at the Losmandy site for the motor upgrade and almost fainted when I saw it was $1000 plus the RA extension kit for $300!? At that point were almost talking about the money of a Titan or MyT!? Seems like a lot of $$ for a "fix" that should have been included in the first place IMHO.
Does the RigRunner ride above the main scope or on a dovetail bar?? where do you route the 12v cables going to all the gear Brian?? Pictures?

Thank you,
Dale


Re: G11 cable management

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Dale

The motor upgrade I think you are referring to is the tucked in motors. Call Losmandy and they can fill you in.?

Also FYI I run across to my rigrunner you just need to wire something like a female 12v car adapter and get a 12v AC adapter. I have a rig runner on my scope and run across. Works great

Brian


On Dec 1, 2017, at 8:05 PM, dalemschultz@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:

?

Greetings everyone!

I need some help from the imagers.? I keep running into problems with my power cable bundle clearing the Gemini II Mount Controller, during a meridian flip, with the RA/Dec cables sticking out.? Like most imagers, one of my goals is to be able to leave the system unattended for long periods during imaging.? I use a USB HUB for the data cable at it's centrally located on my ADM dovetail plate that the telescope harness uses.? But Instead of using DC connections for say a RigRunner DC Power Panel, I want to be able use the AC adapter for devices like the HUB, focuser, cameras and the Gemini II, since I usually have access to AC power.? I've come up short trying to figure out the best method to route the adapter cables that I have bundled and loose enough to reach their equipment at the furthest point that might be needed.? Of course the motors sticking out does not help and I've recently heard about possible upgrades. Does anybody have clear pictures or explanations for this routing? ? I would greatly appreciate the education!

Many thanks,
Dale



G11 cable management

 

Greetings everyone!

I need some help from the imagers.? I keep running into problems with my power cable bundle clearing the Gemini II Mount Controller, during a meridian flip, with the RA/Dec cables sticking out.? Like most imagers, one of my goals is to be able to leave the system unattended for long periods during imaging.? I use a USB HUB for the data cable at it's centrally located on my ADM dovetail plate that the telescope harness uses.? But Instead of using DC connections for say a RigRunner DC Power Panel, I want to be able use the AC adapter for devices like the HUB, focuser, cameras and the Gemini II, since I usually have access to AC power.? I've come up short trying to figure out the best method to route the adapter cables that I have bundled and loose enough to reach their equipment at the furthest point that might be needed.? Of course the motors sticking out does not help and I've recently heard about possible upgrades. Does anybody have clear pictures or explanations for this routing? ? I would greatly appreciate the education!

Many thanks,
Dale



Re: DEC stalls on new mount

Linda Thomas-Fowler
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I ran through the procedure on the Losmandy video and it¡¯s working now! It may not be optimal but it is working.

Once I looked at the unit in better light it was obvious which two screws were needed to get the motor off. However, the screw that was on the side facing the shaft was, um, a

Thanks to everyone who helped! It was very much appreciated. If you are ever in northern Virginia, let me know and a beverage of your choice is on tap!


On Dec 1, 2017, at 3:02 PM, Michael Herman mherman346@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:


you will soon be tuning up Losmandy mounts and spark plugs like a champ!

Michael?

On Dec 1, 2017 11:44 AM, "Linda Thomas-Fowler?linda@...?[Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
?

Thanks, Michael! The mount came with a set of Allen wrenches but if by chance, the right size isn¡¯t there I have a full set of SAE and metric wrenches. I¡¯m certain I don¡¯t have the spark plug feeler gauges because until I read your email I¡¯d never heard of them. :)

typos courtesy of iPad

On Dec 1, 2017, at 2:00 PM, Michael Herman?mherman346@...?[Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

?

Linda,

I think you are right...the instant stall means the worm is probably too tight against the ring gear.??

Try Brian's idea of swapping the cables first...? if that doesn't change the problem...

Videos are nice, but as this GM811 mount has just been released I didn't see a video dedicated to it's new design.? Look for any video on the GM8 or G11 worm adjustment.? You will recognize the mounting bolts and how to do the adjustment.?

In words....

The adjustment bolts for the worm to ring gear spacing are two very large silvery stainless steel bolts, just under the worm gear housing.? Facing the front of the mount, the left bolt, hidden under the motor+gearbox on the GM811, acts as a pivot point.? You may have to slightly loosen that to allow the worm mount bracket to pivot.? The bolt on the right side allows you to actually rotate the worm away from the ring gear by swinging that point outward using the left bolt pivot point..??

If you don't already have them, you'll need some tools for that.? For the stainless holding bolts, you will need the right size hex key wrench.? Because the mount uses a range of US sized bolts, I find best to get a full set of US sized "Allen" Hex key wrenches... hardware stores sell nice sets of these from like 0.050 inch up in a plastic slip holder.? ?The wrenches with a rounded tip on the long end help access at an angle.??

The second tool you need is a set of car spark plug feeler gauges...flat metal pieces of different thickness printed on them.? (The "step-type" feeler gauges can help, but just flat ones will work too.)? Those calibrated thin metal gauges give you?a calibrated way to get just the right spacing so the worm can move, yet eliminate any extra ring gear rotational slop....its a tradeoff you have to try. (You can add the gauge strips back to back if needed to measure larger spacings.)

After measuring the existing (too tight, stalled) spacing with feeler gauges, you will loosen the right underneath bolt slightly and move the worm toward the front, away from the ring gear.? Place a slightly thicker feeler gauge in place of the one that measured too tight, and tighten the bolts again.? Try your DEC motor again and see if you still get Stall or Lag warnings.? You must try some spacings and see which is the smallest one that gets rid of the Stall and possible Lag warnings.??

That's it.? You can make your own video and get famous on YouTube.

Michael?





On Dec 1, 2017 2:39 AM, "Linda Thomas-Fowler?linda@...?[Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...m> wrote:
?

Sorry, that should have said:?


With the DEC clutch loose, not sure how autocorrect turned clutch into cloth.

I¡¯ve tried reseating the cables. All seems correct. Someone on Cloudy Nights suggested that it should like the worm is too tight and said there is a video that shows how to adjust it, but I am not sure which video that is. Can anyone point me at the appropriate procedure?

On Nov 30, 2017, at 10:46 PM, Brian Valente?bvalente@...?[Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...m> wrote:


not sure what that first sentence means? your clutches should be hand tightened so it can still be moved by hand but is stiff.?

double-check all your motor cable connections too

B

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 6:35 PM, Linda Thomas-Fowler?linda@...?[Losmandy_users]?<Losmandy_users@...>?wrote:
?

With the DEC cloth unlocked I can move the OTA around and it holds position (same for RA). The stall is happening immediately. The axis isn¡¯t even beginning to move in either direction. I hear a sound like it¡¯s starting the motor then a beep and the stall messages on the hand controller.


I¡¯m coming from an equatorial fork so GEMs are a bit new to me but I think I have it balanced properly.

Linda

On Nov 30, 2017, at 9:32 PM, 'Brian Valente'?bvalente@...?[Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...m> wrote:


Is it possible you are not balanced on the DEC axis? It should be roughly balanced with a little bias towards the camera

?

Thanks

?

Brian

?

?

Brian Valente

?

From:?Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com?[mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]?
Sent:?Thursday, November 30, 2017 6:30 PM
To:?Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com
Subject:?[Losmandy_users] DEC stalls on new mount

?

??

Hi,

?

I just received my GM811 today and I¡¯ve been setting it up and testing indoors to get familiar (it is, of course, raining here in northern Virginia).

?

I have everything hooked up (RA and DEC cables, power to gemini, hand controller attached). I have 16V DC going into the gemini box.

?

I have my C8 in the saddle and balanced in both axes.

?

I power on and run through the quick start procedure and set all the parameters.

?

I tried doing some slews from the keypad. Slewing in RA seems to work fine, loudish in my foyer, but fine.

?

I next tried to slew in DEC and ... stall. The messages I receive are:

DEC: Stall!

DEC Heavy Duty Sl.

and at least one other I didn't note down and can't reproduce but it may have been something like:

DEC Heavy Duty/Lag Sl

but I may have that totally wrong.

?

Any ideas? I don't see anything in the troubleshooting in??and searches haven't turned anything that I can tell is directly relevant.

?

Thanks, again for any help!







--?
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio?