开云体育

I would have to agree with Brian. When you get the polar scope you have to align it. That gets frustrating. I had one I know. I went to the Polemaster for like $10 more and found it's a whole lot

Personally i'd recommend getting Polemaster from QHY. it will save you time and sanity. Brian

I am seriously considering a GM811G mount. The polar alignment scope is an option. Do I need this or does the Gemini 2 do an adequate job of alignment without it? How about time required to do initial

Hi Don, Can you elaborate on your drive setup? I mean, do you use dc serve motors tucked under with a belt drive? Cheers Arnold

Thanks, folks. I was hoping it would have been a feeler gauge setup that I could do in the dome. Looks more like a strip the whole thing down and bring it in the house kind of a job. So a Fall/early

Greg, Lots of info... but procedure would be this: 1. get car feeler gauges. the spacing may be large requiring you to stack two feeler gauge sheets. 2. Measure and write down the original spacing you

Greg, If by worm clearances you mean the mesh spacing as indicated by the position of the bearing blocks relative to some (unknown) reference point the answer is No. It is a "feel it and adjust" job,

Hi Greg, Pretty easy. If it is tight, winding the worm by hand, it's probably too close. If you can significantly move the axis by hand, with the clutch tight, then it's probably too loose. I've done

Having wandered the internet looking for information about my mount... I am curious... are there any specs as to what the worm clearances should be for my GM-8? i.e. how far off the blocks should the

Hi Dale, That part number is for an all new G11 mount bottom. That is a completely different situation from upgrading your existing G11 to the latest specs which would additionally include the tucked

Dale, I really can’t agree that the parts are a fix and should have been included in the first place. The mount works well without the upgrade but it works better with it and as I understand it new

I tried a lot of different mountings and bringing it over the top was the most flexible for my setup. My computers are mounted on the pier surround so everything is as short as possible. Its gigabit

Hi Greg, I saw those black ribbed automotive sheaths when I was searching for a container for the cables. I purchased a self closing braided wrap enclosure.

Hi Magnus, Yes you could buy just the HP-worm but as I posted to Don the new OPW is a lot cheaper than it used to be and it makes adjustment a lot faster and easier to accomplish. You only need the

I have had some success using automotive wire protectors for enclosing the cables on my GM-8. They are split down the side and a 3/4" tube can enclose five or six usb, power or video cables. I have

Yes Magnus, that is pretty clear. Good, creative work! Thanks, Dale

Hi! I uploaded 3 photos of the box in the same folder, called powerbox_1, 2 and 3. You see the connections on one side, going out (cables in some) and one Anderson Powerpole on the other side, taking

Hi! I use a AC-DC converter to transform the 220 V AC we have here, to 12 V DC. This 12 V then goes into my power box. I have 4 anderson power pole outlets, to which this 12 V is just passed on. Then

Hi Magnus, Yes, that's what I was looking for. Specific info. on data and power cables. Does the use of an AC-DC converter give you the various voltage outputs like 12v, 7v, 6v and 5v? Thank you, Dale

Hi Chip, I went to the Losmandy site and saw the G11RA-AXIS ($995) and it looked like that was what was needed to get a tucked motor onto my mount. From your description, it sounds like that is not