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There is the possibility that the spikes in guiding are not "real" but due to the PHD2 algorithm. If you have the guide camera exposure set to 2 or 3 seconds, PHD2 has to predict where RA will go

So, balance to the east seemed to work. I'll post the log tomorrow. It went for 20min or so without flinching. Why didn't this happen before though?

Dear Henk, Ok...you now feel the "stuttering" the same way I did. You get it! Some things to consider...experiments if you want to try them.... The rotation direction of the stuttering changed when I

I think that it will be bedtime soon -- I've got 3 8 year olds that will not accept a tired papa. I may try to unbalance it a bit just before turning in though. Jamie

OK, so here it is. This has unguided data starting at around 23:00. Before that is with a calibration using auto settings. This shows that the spikes are still there when not guiding. Jamie

Sure I did.? It came with an amount of backlash that I found unacceptable so I started fiddling with it.? Mostly with the far block but also with the inner one.? I believe I understand the details

OK, so I re-did the calibration with the settings automatically generated. It took a while for the spike to happen again, but it just did. I think that it does not happen when pointing south, so it

okay, let's see what those guidelogs bring jamie.amendolagine@...> wrote: -- Brian Brian Valente portfolio brianvalentephotography.com <http://brianvalentephotography.com>

and have you fiddled with the bearing blocks at all? jamie.amendolagine@...> wrote: -- Brian Brian Valente portfolio brianvalentephotography.com <http://brianvalentephotography.com>

After several days of seeing the spikes I adjusted the worm on both the RA and DEC. For each worm I only adjusted the Spring, and Stop screws. This all started a week or so ago, and it started the

Going back over recommendations: Checked PEC: it's off. TVC Step count: 0 Training / Handset Mode: It was set to visual -- hopefully that only applies to the handset. I set it to photo in any event.

Tom, To get the best focus you need to be at the specification backfocus from your telescope or focal reducer to your camera sensor to within a few millimeters. Also you should double-check that your

Jamie do you have PEC enabled? also have you fiddled with the bearing blocks at all? jamie.amendolagine@...> wrote:

So BTW, I don't think that I've thanked everyone for all the help, so -- Thanks! Looks like our old friend Spike is back. This time I'm using a 60x246mm guide scope. I just remembered now why I was

Scott, Also as already mentioned: I would highly recommend Warren Keller's book "Inside PixInsight", available on Amazon. (Make sure you get the latest edition.) Also on Warren's ip4ap.com website, he

PHD has a calculator for step size. based on your focal length, pixel scale, and guidespeed, it will determine how long a pulse guide should be to get 12 steps in 25 seconds the calculation in PHD is

There are lots of videos. Look on website too. I can also help if desired. Steve Ruttenberg Photographer Amateur Astronomer www.steveruttenbergphotography.com 843.518.1395

The symptoms you describe make me think you have a slight imbalance to the West.? It is easy to test, if you disconnect the motor coupling then use your thumb to turn the worm.? With my G11S, if

Ok, so it looks like it will be clear tonight. I'm looking at this now. I don't understand why big step sizes are a problem. The only recommendation I see in the PhD docs mentions number of steps,p

I am using an ASIair Pro and seem unable to get stars in focus. I know a basic thing right. When I do my guiding in the AAP is all over the place. I think it is due to poor atmosphere conditions but I