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I run Orion’s 8" f/3.9 astrograph on a tripod-mounted G11, with the Orion rings and an 11” Losmandy dovetail plate. The camera is an STF8300, around 5 lb all-up IIRC. I’ve been happy with it

Hi Jim, I have the 10" f3.9 astrograph, the bigger brother of the 8.? The 8" OTA weight with the supplied rings and a finder is close to 20 lbs. I can only tell you what I had to do to make the 10 a

Thanks Tom - I will be using it for imaging with my ASI2600MC Pro.? What imaging issues or concerns do you have with the scope? EDIT - I may replace the focuser if I get the scope.

For the record I own the 10" version on a G11 on a fixed pier and I rarely have to re-collimate it. My images are tack sharp when well focused. If you plan visual use I think the 8" with the supplied

is this the newtonian? I think i have the skywatcher version of that it isn't too long for my G11, partly because you have to move it up pretty far to balance it (the heaviest part is the mirror in

I am considering getting the Orion 8" f/4 scope?? Is this scope a little long for the GM811G mount?? Are there any issues I should know?? Thx

Hi Bryn, I just sent you a private message with a ton of documents and improvement ideas. I did not mean to bomb you with all that stuff! Hope it helps you hit the ground running. Since you are in

Thanks Michael. I’ll be giving it a go with the Air once I’ve got the cable made up and some clear sky!

before connecting the Air. just curious why you had to do that? I would assume ASIAir does plate solve and supports blind solving? [email protected]> wrote: -- Brian Brian

Thanks for the replies. With the AVX I had to do an align in the mount before connecting the Air. from the responses, it sounds like this is not necessary with Gemini. I’ll hopefully have the

No. I think there's some confusion about exactly what the model is and does, and how it relates to programs that plate solve If you are using an imaging application that provides plate solving, you

Hi, I often do a Warm Start, using the prior night's model which is always saved in the SRAM. Or I may choose Cold start, skip the "Align to 1st bright star" step, and just use Stellarium with

If you are having to set up your mount each night, then I wouldn't bother with building a model. Keep in mind the model only improves go-to accuracy. Once it arrives at the target, the model does

So does the mount have to have a model in before using the ASIAir, achieved by warm starting? If you cold started, as I have to set up each night, would I have to get a mount model made before

Hi John, Also make note of the worm material color. The original worms were silver that oxidized to a brownish color and they were fine for visual use but not great for imaging. The later HP (High

Les, Brian, I used to eyeball it but that gave me sort of inconsistent results, stacks on stacks as it were. I was already guesstimating the position to position the reticle based on the

Brian, We have more common experiences than is allowed here. I just left them in the mounts NOT because I'm lazy but mostly due to inertia. Because - a) they don't get in the way, b) by leaving them

You can also swap the worms. Sometimes the DEC worm will be better (half the time in general!). Better if you can perform a PE evaluation and quantify the PE of each worm. New brass high precision

The ?stars are gradually moving in one direction. Have a Feathertouch focuser that I lock down after focus. I always retighten Alt and Az after Sharp Cap polar align and check for any changes. I'm

Thanks Michael, I'll swap the RA and Dec Motors and see what happens as I mentioned the RA worm gear is questionable. Thanks!