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Hi nmatxin, If you already have the brass worm gears installed in your mount you already have high precision worms installed and I highly recommend buying the newly redesigned Losmandy one piece worm

The moment has come to update my G11?s autoguide. I want to chance the RA (and DEC, perhaphs) worm to achieve a better autoguide. But, my doubt is choose the Ovision option or Losmandy option. Anyone

Thanks Eric. I could not get it to take a .0015 feeler gauge anywhere, and I held it up to a bright light - no gap visible FWIW. I do have .0010 shim stock at work I could try, IDK, that .004 has to

Jeff, You might take another look at the bearing housings. Get a set of feeler gauges and test the gap. It only took 5 thousandths to wreak havoc on my DEC axis. 5 thousandths might be tough to gauge

Chip, does one hundred percent of the load applied by the clutch knobs not go through the thrust bearings? With no scope mounted and clutch loose, so the axis rotates as freely as is possible, does

Remember to balance the Dec (The Telescope) and then the RA (The Counterweight).. As I just read the G11 instructions.. yet again.. I know they list this backwards.. See..

Hi Rodney, Bob, and gang, Bob raised the question about how some folks have to really wrench down the clutch knobs to get the gear to stay put...other don't seem to. It does not make sense to new

I read the balance instructions for this Losmandy scope Mount. I have to balance the RA and the Dec axis's before hand. To ensure a minimal load on the servo motors during the scope movement. I played

Hey there Chip.. Want to disassemble?? Absolutely not.. Too many questions of how tight, how loose, etc.. But I do love the design of the G11.. Elegant, yet simple, so I am not afraid to.. Especially

Fredrik, Is this a #492 digital drive GM8? I bought a demo GM8 with #492 digital drive looking for a lighter payload mount than my G11 for driveway duty on a JMI Wheely Bar and lighter payloads for

Hi Derek, Hmm, it sounds like you may have damaged a gearbox. The older gearboxes used soft plastic studs that were heated and pressed to form a bad rivet which retained the plate which supported

Hi Rodney, Ideally you want to snug the clutch knobs up just enough to hold and no more but it really makes about zero difference to the servomotors. Obviously there will be a very small additional

First, you should shoot for good balance of the load and then introduce a slight eastward bias. Clutch tight enough so that there is no slippage during imaging or slewing. Tom

Never tighten more than the minimum required to prevent slippage. Doing so dramatically increases drag due to (unnecessary) loading of the thrust bearings. Good Luck ! Jeff

That is my goal as well Brian, but I was just wondering how tight these clutches should be for all of the different modes, GOTO, tracking, etc... I had them really tight when i was learning this

I should clarify that I use it primarily for astrophotography and use computerized go-tos B

I just have a push-to GM-8, and a lot of times I'll reach down to loosen the clutch to go to another object and find them already "loose". I don't have to tighten mine much at all with C8's or an

Hand tightened is fine. you don’t have to crank them down. Also depends on the load. If it’s heavier it’s worth an extra confirming twist hth Thanks Brian Brian Valente

Tonight I will have this G11 out for the first time. I've had a few dry runs in the house just to become familiar with the working parts of the mount and Gemini 2 HC. My question. How tight should the

Heh, that's good to hear! I was hesitant to buy it at first since it was still just outside my budget for a mount that's 20 or so years old. I realized that most of the mount will stay the same