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Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

 
Edited

I think I destroyed the circuit board by cutting too deeply the etch of JP04. In the guide it says not to cut JP04 too deeply- but it doesn't say why: There is no text on the screen of the Kurzweil 1000 anymore, and I think it can no longer access the OS EPROMS, also I cut deep enough to expose some coppery bits. Please be careful cutting and don't make the same? mistake I did. :(

How would I avoid doing this again?? Does anyone have experience upgrading a 1000 PX?
 

I haven't done it, but I've had it done a lot. Which guide are you using? Does k1000.net cover this?

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of jambutterr via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 4:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

I think I destroyed the circuit board by cutting too deeply the etch of JP04. In the guide it says not to cut JP04 too deeply- but it doesn't say why: There is no text on the screen of the Kurzweil 1000 anymore, and I think it can no longer access the OS EPROMS, also I cut deep enough to expose some coppery bits. Please be careful cutting and don't make the same mistake I did. :(

How would I avoid doing this again? Does anyone have experience upgrading a 1000 PX?
 

Hi, yes. The picture of the JP04 is here:



And the instructions are here:



I'm not sure which part to scratch.
 

Okay, hopefully someone else can help out -- I haven't done it myself, because I don't want to ruin one of my favorite modules -- I'm almost totally blind, so that level of work is done by others for me.

That said, I did some electronics work before I lost my sight, and I suspect the trick is to scrape off enough that it breaks the connection, but nothing beyond that. Hopefully someone else will chime in -- I hate to hear of any of these modules getting parted out, my AX+, which was my second 1000 series module, met that fate. And BTW, yes, you definitely want to upgrade them. My fourth GX needs the upgrade, and I love my bank of Pro1's and Pro2's. (I have twelve 1000 series modules and one K1000 keyboard, and all but my fourth GX has the upgrade)

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of jambutterr via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 10:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Hi, yes. The picture of the JP04 is here:



And the instructions are here:



I'm not sure which part to scratch.
 

My results, using cutting knife, and soft cut trace.?
I prefer to pass the knife 20 times very softly than a single cut; this means to me: less damage to board.

El jue, 15 feb 2024, 6:04, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> escribió:
Okay, hopefully someone else can help out -- I haven't done it myself, because I don't want to ruin one of my favorite modules -- I'm almost totally blind, so that level of work is done by others for me.

That said, I did some electronics work before I lost my sight, and I suspect the trick is to scrape off enough that it breaks the connection, but nothing beyond that. Hopefully someone else will chime in -- I hate to hear of any of these modules getting parted out, my AX+, which was my second 1000 series module, met that fate. And BTW, yes, you definitely want to upgrade them. My fourth GX needs the upgrade, and I love my bank of Pro1's and Pro2's. (I have twelve 1000 series modules and one K1000 keyboard, and all but my fourth GX has the upgrade)

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of jambutterr via
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 10:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Hi, yes. The picture of the JP04 is here:



And the instructions are here:



I'm not sure which part to scratch.







Screenshot_20240215_062631_Messenger.jpg

 

It says not to cut too deeply because it's very likely a multi-layer board. I don't know how many layers, but surely more than one.
IF you cut deep enough to break an inner layer, you got some real troubles that might not be easily repaired by even a talented tech.
Also, and more likely, the idea is to *scrape*. A cut doesn't really give you the gap that you're after. You need a positive, uncompromising, interrupt to current flow and that means visible air (a very good example was provided).
With a simple cut, especially a sharp razor, then the handling of the board can flex, or thermal changes can flex, or conductive debris (like pencil graphite) can float around in there and leave you with the worst possible condition: the intermittent contact. So if it kinda almost makes contact during, say, bootup, something isn't gonna work right. Maybe 1,000 pulses are to be stopped with that jumper disconnect, but because it flexed or something, maybe 12 get through. Now what? Well, the results are entirely unpredictable. So make sure it's a good scrape like the pic Juan provided.
If it still won't wake up after that, then it's possible there's another problem area. I've been known to do that with my ham-handed efforts: fixing one thing and breaking another. Every tech has at some point so no worries.

L.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Nicole Massey
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 11:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Okay, hopefully someone else can help out -- I haven't done it myself, because I don't want to ruin one of my favorite modules -- I'm almost totally blind, so that level of work is done by others for me.

That said, I did some electronics work before I lost my sight, and I suspect the trick is to scrape off enough that it breaks the connection, but nothing beyond that. Hopefully someone else will chime in -- I hate to hear of any of these modules getting parted out, my AX+, which was my second 1000 series module, met that fate. And BTW, yes, you definitely want to upgrade them. My fourth GX needs the upgrade, and I love my bank of Pro1's and Pro2's. (I have twelve 1000 series modules and one K1000 keyboard, and all but my fourth GX has the upgrade)

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of jambutterr via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 10:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Hi, yes. The picture of the JP04 is here:



And the instructions are here:



I'm not sure which part to scratch.
 

If you've never seen a multilayer PC board layer before they're bound together, it's hard to fully understand how delicate this can be. (I have, I did a summer working in my uncle's printed circuit board shop) The layers are like the transparencies teachers used in school on an overhead projector. Yes, that thin. A light hand is the best idea when working with things like breaking traces. Think of it as being in the same general philosophy of the woodworking advice, measure twice, cut once.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of LarryS
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 9:14 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

It says not to cut too deeply because it's very likely a multi-layer board. I don't know how many layers, but surely more than one.
IF you cut deep enough to break an inner layer, you got some real troubles that might not be easily repaired by even a talented tech.
Also, and more likely, the idea is to *scrape*. A cut doesn't really give you the gap that you're after. You need a positive, uncompromising, interrupt to current flow and that means visible air (a very good example was provided).
With a simple cut, especially a sharp razor, then the handling of the board can flex, or thermal changes can flex, or conductive debris (like pencil graphite) can float around in there and leave you with the worst possible condition: the intermittent contact. So if it kinda almost makes contact during, say, bootup, something isn't gonna work right. Maybe 1,000 pulses are to be stopped with that jumper disconnect, but because it flexed or something, maybe 12 get through. Now what? Well, the results are entirely unpredictable. So make sure it's a good scrape like the pic Juan provided.
If it still won't wake up after that, then it's possible there's another problem area. I've been known to do that with my ham-handed efforts: fixing one thing and breaking another. Every tech has at some point so no worries.

L.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Nicole Massey
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 11:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Okay, hopefully someone else can help out -- I haven't done it myself, because I don't want to ruin one of my favorite modules -- I'm almost totally blind, so that level of work is done by others for me.

That said, I did some electronics work before I lost my sight, and I suspect the trick is to scrape off enough that it breaks the connection, but nothing beyond that. Hopefully someone else will chime in -- I hate to hear of any of these modules getting parted out, my AX+, which was my second 1000 series module, met that fate. And BTW, yes, you definitely want to upgrade them. My fourth GX needs the upgrade, and I love my bank of Pro1's and Pro2's. (I have twelve 1000 series modules and one K1000 keyboard, and all but my fourth GX has the upgrade)

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of jambutterr via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2024 10:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Upgrading Kurzweil1000 PX to Pro-1: How to cut the etch of JP04???

Hi, yes. The picture of the JP04 is here:



And the instructions are here:



I'm not sure which part to scratch.
 

Thank you for the picture. I will be more gentle if I decide to try this again.
 

Hi. Which part of the trace to cut? The green line in the center or the coppery color ones, or both?? (the arrows point to the lines I'm referring too)
 

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It doesn't matter which part of the trace is cut.? The objective is to prevent current from flowing between the square solder pad and the round one, and as long as the trace is cut somewhere between them, you'll accomplish this.


Rgds,

Brian


On 2/15/2024 2:47 PM, jambutterr via groups.io wrote:

Hi. Which part of the trace to cut? The green line in the center or the coppery color ones, or both?? (the arrows point to the lines I'm referring too)
 

Thank you. :)

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