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KD1000 Tiago

 

Hi Tiago


Thanks for this series of pictures. I can only repeate, you have a speed which is unbeliveable.

Looks good, already busy with the planking, next year sailing ???

Keep up the good works


Cheers


Bernd
 

Thiago, your progress is very exciting and the quality looks good. Maybe it is just a trick of the camera but it looks like you have done a good job cleaning up before the epoxy hardens. Are you working by yourself or do you have helpers??
Cheers
Patrick
 

Hi Bernd, ?thanks for your positive words.?
I dont want estimate time, ?but the end of next year would be a nice date to launch ?the boat.?
unfortunately i still have to find(rent) a place to assemble the two hulls together.? This probably will take more time then expected.?

I'm almost accomplishing the side hull planking. Next step is to plank the chine and the keel.? I'm still studying Kevlar prices for keel lamination.? By the way I've seen the D. R voyager pics and i think the carbon fiber "parts". " not sure how it is called" very interesting thing once that you eliminate screws on the hull.? It sounds great for me cause I have the bad experience to have rotten wood on my last boat caused by screws on the plywood hull.? No matter how good is the sikaflex or whathever you use, ?sooner or later it will fail.?
I see kd860(Tasmanian? the green one.? Very well built) uses the same method.?

I would like to ask to the guys who built such parts if they can share the how to ? in this group??

Thanks to all


On Dec 13, 2017 9:36 AM, "Bernd@... [k-designs]" <k-designs@...> wrote:
?

Hi Tiago


Thanks for this series of pictures. I can only repeate, you have a speed which is unbeliveable.

Looks good, already busy with the planking, next year sailing ???

Keep up the good works


Cheers


Bernd
 

Hi Patrick thanks. ?
I'm working alone.
After the panel is glued I jump to the cleaning process. It s far better to clean than sand.?
After cleaning up the resin excess I start to do the fillets and than start the cleaning process again.? The result is an almost "free of sanding" surface.?
The whole process of gluing panels takes me five hours of hard working for each panel.? The best for me is to glue one panel per day.?
It probably takes a lot more time but the result is the boat's interior finished.?

I hope to have answered your question.?
Fair winds
Thiago



On Dec 13, 2017 2:00 PM, "voya12m@... [k-designs]" <k-designs@...> wrote:
?

Thiago, your progress is very exciting and the quality looks good. Maybe it is just a trick of the camera but it looks like you have done a good job cleaning up before the epoxy hardens. Are you working by yourself or do you have helpers??

Cheers
Patrick
 

Hi Thiago
The D.R. Voyager is our build. Good job taking the time clean up and fillet as you go. I think you will be glad you did. And remember you can probably also make your beams before you get a larger shed. And the other smaller parts like the rudders etc.?

I highly recommend making your own carbon chainplates and deck cleats. And brackets for anything too, if you can make them work. There are two general methods that I have seen and used:

¡°±«²Ô¾±-»å°ù²¹±è±ð¡±
This method is to clamp your pipe or tube (with plastic around it) in place on top of a plywood spacer, then drape uni carbon over the tube and down beyond the spacer in layers to build up strength. I like to wrap a little fiberglass around the pipe first. This is a good method for making chainplates and deck cleats. Bernd wrote an article for chainplates and another for deck cleats using pictures from Andrew¡¯s green 860 using this method. The article is in the files section of this forum.?

¡°Laminate and drill¡±
The other method is to use a large block of wood covered in plastic as a mold and drape your carbon or glass over the block, alternating the direction of the strands, or using a combination of biax and uni. In this method you make a ¡°C¡± or ¡°L¡± bracket, cut it into the shape you want, glue it in place, then drill a hole through it. This is the method Bernd recommends for gudgeons.?
And there is a blog where a guy uses this method to make a snatch block: http://maiaaboard.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-post-carbon-fiber-snatch-block.html

I used the uni-drape method for my cross beam brackets in the photos, but if I had to do it again I would have used the other method to make L brackets. I would have done this: After reinforcing the hull with extra plywood, cut a slot through the hull. Then laminate a long L ?(right angle beam) using a big block of wood as a mold. Alternate strand direction. First and last layer should be fiberglass cloth. ?Sand and carefully cut the long L into shorter pieces. Fit one piece through the slot in the hull. Fit another piece outside of the hull, butted next to the first piece. Glue them in place together, cut the flush and drill a hole through them. This is one possible way to make brackets that hold an aluminum tube. Or any kind of eye, for that matter. The bracket outside the hull is only needed for applications that force the bracket back towards the hull. Of course you could also make the slot wider and make brackets on the other side as well. Or change the angle of the bracket to align better with the load. Like a chafe-free anchor point. ?
Cheers
Patrick
? ?
 

Hello Patrick

Thank you for your great description. It covers the main issues in an easy to understand way.?
Can you pleace place this in the FILE section please. Including the drawing. Let the first part away because it covers ideas how Tiago can still go on. If I had to do it with my bad English I prever your clear description. You have not to make a new text. Put it in as DOC file or PDF it will not matter.
How is the Voyager coming? Dit you find the right hydraulics? Look at VETUS the have good information. ?You can even load the mounting instruction there.

Cheers

Bernd
 

OK, Bernd, it is in the file section, titled ¡°Organic fittings overview.¡± I added a little on wetting out carbon and buying in bulk if possible.?
I am very much a beginner with carbon fittings, so to the rest of the group, what experiences have you had with carbon fiber fittings? What have you learned that you can share with us? It will help a lot.?
Andrew, welcome to the dad club. The pictures of your chainplates helped me a ton, by the way.?
Cheers
Patrick
 

Hi Patrick

It was not my intention to push you. The point is, everyone in this group and there are many. As you mention, for example Andrew to share there experience. This will help othewr builders to try new avenues. Or for smaller designs Hans and his "Little Tri". The idea with the garden hose as joint and so one.?
Sorry Patrick, I will look at your file when my Internet is working better.

Cheers

Bernd
 

Hello PAtrick,
Thank you very much for your explanations. It's very useful for those who have choosen to make their own fittings.
Congratulations for your build. "Long distance" Voyager. :)
Where are you building it? I'm looking forward to see how the roof looks like.

Good luck and fair winds .
Thiago

On 15 December 2017 at 19:31, voya12m@... [k-designs] <k-designs@...> wrote:
?

Hi Thiago
The D.R. Voyager is our build. Good job taking the time clean up and fillet as you go. I think you will be glad you did. And remember you can probably also make your beams before you get a larger shed. And the other smaller parts like the rudders etc.?

I highly recommend making your own carbon chainplates and deck cleats. And brackets for anything too, if you can make them work. There are two general methods that I have seen and used:

¡°±«²Ô¾±-»å°ù²¹±è±ð¡±
This method is to clamp your pipe or tube (with plastic around it) in place on top of a plywood spacer, then drape uni carbon over the tube and down beyond the spacer in layers to build up strength. I like to wrap a little fiberglass around the pipe first. This is a good method for making chainplates and deck cleats. Bernd wrote an article for chainplates and another for deck cleats using pictures from Andrew¡¯s green 860 using this method. The article is in the files section of this forum.?

¡°Laminate and drill¡±
The other method is to use a large block of wood covered in plastic as a mold and drape your carbon or glass over the block, alternating the direction of the strands, or using a combination of biax and uni. In this method you make a ¡°C¡± or ¡°L¡± bracket, cut it into the shape you want, glue it in place, then drill a hole through it. This is the method Bernd recommends for gudgeons.?
And there is a blog where a guy uses this method to make a snatch block:

I used the uni-drape method for my cross beam brackets in the photos, but if I had to do it again I would have used the other method to make L brackets. I would have done this: After reinforcing the hull with extra plywood, cut a slot through the hull. Then laminate a long L ?(right angle beam) using a big block of wood as a mold. Alternate strand direction. First and last layer should be fiberglass cloth.? Sand and carefully cut the long L into shorter pieces. Fit one piece through the slot in the hull. Fit another piece outside of the hull, butted next to the first piece. Glue them in place together, cut the flush and drill a hole through them. This is one possible way to make brackets that hold an aluminum tube. Or any kind of eye, for that matter. The bracket outside the hull is only needed for applications that force the bracket back towards the hull. Of course you could also make the slot wider and make brackets on the other side as well. Or change the angle of the bracket to align better with the load. Like a chafe-free anchor point. ?
Cheers
Patrick
? ?




--
Thiago R. P
 

Hi Thiago
I am building near the east coast of the USA. I am about an hour away from a large estuary called the Chesapeake Bay. I am also looking forward to seeing how the roof looks :)
Vento Favoravel
Patrick
 

Patrick,


Very impressive build.? I live in Tidewater Va. and would love to visit your build site.? Let me know if that is convenient and keep sending the great pics.


Cheers,

Chris?
 

Chris, email me. My handle at yahoo.com.?
Patrick

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