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Tool to remove "fancy" BNC nut (0590-1251)
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On 2025-04-13 11:03 AM, vk2bea via groups.io wrote:
Does anyone have a tip to remove the BNC nut described in the manual as a "fancy" BNC nut? HP part ?(0590-1251)A 14mm or 15mm socket, perhaps? Steve Hendrix |
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I've always used an adjustable wrench with pristine jaws and a sheet of paper cut out to not mar the front panel, then press down so the wrench doesn't slip up the rounded edges.? It's always worked for me as these nuts tend to never be torqued down much.
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A 9/16" should work as the nut measures 0.5625" but sockets tend to have their own beveled edges so you would need to modify a socket by grinding it down on a belt sander beyond the bevel in order to get a good grip.? You MUST use a hex rather than 12 point socket!? Use the piece of paper regardless to avoid panel marks. Peter On 4/13/2025 11:03 AM, vk2bea via groups.io wrote:
Does anyone have a tip to remove the BNC nut described in the manual as a "fancy" BNC nut? HP part ?(0590-1251) |
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On 2025-04-13, at 17:15, Peter Gottlieb via groups.io <hpnpilot@...> wrote:
Can’t help with SAE dimensions, and I didn’t try this on these BNC nuts, but I often have a lot of success with cheap tubular socket wrenches: I’m sure Amazon has those, too. Grü?e, Carsten |
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I'd go with what Peter suggested using a crescent wrench, but instead hold it perpendicular to the panel, so the (usually rounded) jaw tips only engage two of the flats on the nut. If there's enough room, you can lay the wrench flat on the panel, but usually there's not, so attacking from above helps in tight spaces. Also, use the adjusting screw to keep the squeeze tight on the flats while you go, since the jaws tend to have some free play that can be taken up - practice makes perfect.
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I keep an assortment of those cheap crappy open-ended "wrenches" (if you can call them that) that often come with assemble-it-yourself furniture and such - the kind punched out of thin sheet steel. They're flimsy but handy sometimes to fit in tight spots, being easy to bend to new shapes, or file the jaw opening bigger, and so on. Also, because they're so thin they can get under and between things where a real one just can't go. They can't torque like a real tool, but often it's enough, and not a big deal if you ruin it.
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Ed |
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Our tool of choice for removing these nuts was a Vaco 9/16 nut driver, filed down for sharp edges, then center drilled for enough depth for the bnc connector, then thin tape added to the face just filed down. I only used the same one for about 25 yrs. at HP/Agilent, then another at NGC for 11 yrs. Never an issue, no scratches. You can also use a 9/16 6 point box wrench with a taped side in some places.
Don Bitters |
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For comparison: on the hp 214b they are 9/16". On the hp 3245a they are 14mm.
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For those jobs i have a Knipex 5" Mini Pliers Wrench 86 03 125. I prefer them because they grip the nut with parallel fingers and do not overturn. I have them in all sizes except the smallest. Just tracked them with keepa.com and other local price trackers and got them when the price was right. In the meantime there are other manufactureres, too. Just take care for the parallel grip and don't buy cheap rubbish.
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I use them to bend metal sheets or as a mobil vice, too. |
开云体育For what it’s worth, recently I had a digitizer board with a nut so overtorqued that I was worried I was going to twist the connector off the board behind the panel, even while trying to use slip joint pliers to hold the back side of the connector.
I used a a jewelers saw with a fine blade to slot the nut, twisted a flat blade to break the nut and replaced it with a new one. If you have a nut that is stubborn, it is worth considering whether you have access for a fine cut without panel
or connector damage. The nut was expendable. The connector had a conveniently oriented flat under the nut to index in the panel cutout. I grabbed a replacement nut off a junk box connector. A coupler layers of electric tape gave safety against accidental abrasions
on panel paint.
The other connector on same device came off easily with an open end wrench though I wouldn't try using a crescent wrench.
No, I don’t view everything as expendable…but having a plasma cutter has changed the way I deal with bigger iron in life. With a suitably small saw blade, it was completely the right decision.
The point I’m making is that if you can’t get a nut removed reasonably easy, ask what your time is worth. I might think harder about a harder to
replace nut on a 3.5mm or 2.4mm bulkhead connector on a VNA before resorting to a saw.
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On Sun, Apr 13, 2025 at 08:08 AM, Steve Hendrix wrote:
A 14mm or 15mm socket, perhaps? I have also seen 'sockets' that slip over the BNC connector, and have slots that engage the locking posts on the BNC connector. (Those than engage, and hold on the female connector)
You are supposed to apply counter clockwise torque... to rotate the BNC... and not apply the torque to the panel nut (... like you would with a wrench, socket, or nut driver.)
Not so sure about that.
But... I have done it... and it does loosen the nut back enough to allow removing the nut more easily.
I would think... if the nut is really tightly fastened down, the BNC posts would, bend, or tear.
But, it is another way... to perhaps... loosen the nut. |
vk2bea
Sam Reaves
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