|
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
|
Hi
I would not soak the PCBs. Just blow away dirt using air. Somewhere I once read that the laminate of the PCBs can sponge up the water and I don't know whether this is nice. Better not to try it, your instruments are too nice to destroy them by cleaning
:-) if it was a PCB from something really ordinary, I would give it a try, but for sure not with those gems! ;-)
Tobias
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-------- Original message --------
From: "Calvin Guan guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment]"
Date: 10/16/17 06:27 (GMT+01:00)
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
?
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
|
As a fan of cleaning old electronics I would make a few comments:
Look at a number of past threads on cleaning,
Not everything really needs total cleaning, some things should not be
"cleaned" and some labels can be removed with water. Other things need to be
cleaned but can't be cleaned with water/soap (such as HP clear vinyl tubing
in power supplies)
Start off with some things that are worth less.
To really get stuff off, you will need a surfactant but surfactants can
remove labels and other marks so you have to be careful what and where.
I would not soak pcbs, that can get a lot of water into stuff like pots, and
transformers, carefully brush and hose off with water. Avoiding
spraying/soaking into stuff like pots and transformers.
I would not "dry" with a hairdryer too hot too quick, blow off as much water
(taking as much dissolved salts) as you can with lots of cold air, I use a
clean leaf blower on at night when there is lots of water in the air(no
static).
Then possibly rewash, reblow, rewash and reblow (triple rinse)
Then dry in a 120F ish temp with some air movement for 24 or more hours.
I have used an old fruit dehydrator, worked great, that died from too much
use, Now I have been using an oven with a 50W bulb and small crack in door
where cord goes in (gets just to 115F)
Take lots of pictures before things are taken apart, saved me many a time
Just some thoughts
John
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-----Original Message-----
From: hp_agilent_equipment@...
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 9:27 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A
S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush
them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized
crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave
them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry
them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
------------------------------------
Posted by: Calvin Guan <guancalvin@...>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
|
Just be careful about possible water ingress at the edges of the fiber glass boards. It can actually cause some problems with high impedance circuits (Been there...) I would use an ordinary oven and set it to ... 50-60 Degrees Celsius and put the boards in there for about an hour.
BR
Ulf Kylenfall - SM6GXV
|
Hi Calvin
My recommendation is you just dust equipment
out clean edge connectors and service fan assemblies / motors / bearings
In short if it is not broken do not fix it
I only use soap and water on cases
?
I would never do a deep clean as you describe
with any of my 50 plus hp items
For sticking keyboards I disassemble them to
clean them
Regards Paul B
From:
hp_agilent_equipment@...
[mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: 16 October 2017 05:27
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment]
Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A S-parameter
test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush them
and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized
crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave them
alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry them
as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin._,_.___
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the
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|
I understand the desire to try and get the insides to look like new! Like Paul, I guess I have 50+ bits of oldish HP and Tek equipment, but I'm not sure I would do what you intend, especially with water!
I recall that in the 60's through to the early 80's water washable fluxes were not necessarily used and PCBs were often expected to be cleaned with CFCs (ICI Arklone and the like) to get the rosin based fluxes off, so some components were not sealed and not meant to get wet!
Early PCBs often meant for hand assembly did not have a solder resist either so there may be a small risk of moisture penetration of the FR4?
I clean things that need it, suspect areas of PCBs due to contamination, old flux from re-work, switches and so on with IPA, dust I blow off with the shop airline, case parts, yes soap, water and brush (and solvent where safe and needed for sticker residue) but the 'aint broke don't fix' mantra is my guide!
On Monday, October 16, 2017 5:26 AM, "Calvin Guan guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" wrote:
?
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
|
I agree with this. I have been involved in many product developments over 40 years ( not for HP) and would not use anything but >99% IPA or DI water, and only if the parts are rated to be cleaned with these solutions. If you don't know if they are rated, they may be damaged. Some trimpots, connectors, etc may not be cleanable without damage. The industry did use Acetone and Freons, but due to safety reasons, those are much less common now.
Mark
?
I understand the desire to try and get the insides to look like new! Like Paul, I guess I have 50+ bits of oldish HP and Tek equipment, but I'm not sure I would do what you intend, especially with water!
I recall that in the 60's through to the early 80's water washable fluxes were not necessarily used and PCBs were often expected to be cleaned with CFCs (ICI Arklone and the like) to get the rosin based fluxes off, so some components were not sealed and not meant to get wet!
Early PCBs often meant for hand assembly did not have a solder resist either so there may be a small risk of moisture penetration of the FR4?
I clean things that need it, suspect areas of PCBs due to contamination, old flux from re-work, switches and so on with IPA, dust I blow off with the shop airline, case parts, yes soap, water and brush (and solvent where safe and needed for sticker residue) but the 'aint broke don't fix' mantra is my guide!
?
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
|
I had to remove BI/Beckman trimpots from our products at somewhere around 2000 because they would fail after the boards were cleaned. We switched to Bourns, and the problem went away. BI denied that they had a problem, but later they acknowledged that their O-rings were defective as they tried to lure us back.
We used an industrial circuit board cleaner, with a citrus based solvent that was diluted with water. This was followed by an overnight bake in a 105°F dryer.
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-----Original Message----- From: "Mark Goldberg marklgoldberg@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Oct 16, 2017 9:34 AM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
I agree with this. I have been involved in many product developments over
40 years ( not for HP) and would not use anything but >99% IPA or DI water,
and only if the parts are rated to be cleaned with these solutions. If you
don't know if they are rated, they may be damaged. Some trimpots,
connectors, etc may not be cleanable without damage. The industry did use
Acetone and Freons, but due to safety reasons, those are much less common
now.
Mark
On Oct 16, 2017 5:48 AM, "Adrian Nicol fenland787a@...
[hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
I understand the desire to try and get the insides to look like new! Like
Paul, I guess I have 50+ bits of oldish HP and Tek equipment, but I'm not
sure I would do what you intend, especially with water!
I recall that in the 60's through to the early 80's water washable fluxes
were not necessarily used and PCBs were often expected to be cleaned with
CFCs (ICI Arklone and the like) to get the rosin based fluxes off, so some
components were not sealed and not meant to get wet!
Early PCBs often meant for hand assembly did not have a solder resist
either so there may be a small risk of moisture penetration of the FR4?
I clean things that need it, suspect areas of PCBs due to contamination,
old flux from re-work, switches and so on with IPA, dust I blow off with
the shop airline, case parts, yes soap, water and brush (and solvent where
safe and needed for sticker residue) but the 'aint broke don't fix' mantra
is my guide!
On Monday, October 16, 2017 5:26 AM, "Calvin Guan guancalvin@...
[hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
Hi,
I am thinking of deep cleaning of my gear. 8566 SA, 8510 VNA, 8515A
S-parameter test set, 8350/83592 sweeper.
I think I am going to remove all PCBs, soak them into clean water, brush
them and dry them with hair dryer as soon as I can.
For delicate microwave assemblies like DC, YIG, YTFM, mixer and ovenized
crystal, and CRT display, I will just brush dirt off the surface and leave
them alone.
For sticky keys, soak the keyboard assembly into IPA, rinse them and dry
them as quickly as I could.
Sounds like a plan?
Thank you!
Calvin
Michael A. Terrell
|
I keep hearing folks here mentioning water penetration
of circuit board substrates, I think I can help you lay
that myth firmly to rest. The process of making pcb's
has always involved many long steps where the board is
entirely immersed in water or water based solutions.
Between each of these steps, the board is immersed in
pure clean water as the etchants, and plating solutions
are rinsed off of the board.
One poster mentioned a board losing its high insulation
value due to water washing. I think the resistance was
damaged not from the water, but rather from what was in
the water, and not from what soaked into the board, but
rather from what was left behind on the surface of the
board.
Detergents come in two basic types, ionic and non ionic.
Ionic based surfactants are great cleaners, but are also
highly conductive of electricity. If not rinsed fully,
they leave a conductive film. This film is often used
to dissipate static charge from plastic surfaces, like
meter windows.
Also, not all water is equal. Hard waters, and acid
neutralized waters, have high mineral content, which is
in the form of salts. If the water is allowed to
evaporate on the board, it will leave a conductive
residue of a particularly nasty type: one that changes
its resistance with ambient humidity.
-Chuck Harris
Adrian Nicol fenland787a@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I understand the desire to try and get the insides to look like new! Like Paul, I guess I have 50+ bits of oldish HP and Tek equipment, but I'm not sure I would do what you intend, especially with water!
I recall that in the 60's through to the early 80's water washable fluxes were not necessarily used and PCBs were often expected to be cleaned with CFCs (ICI Arklone and the like) to get the rosin based fluxes off, so some components were not sealed and not meant to get wet!
Early PCBs often meant for hand assembly did not have a solder resist either so there may be a small risk of moisture penetration of the FR4?
I clean things that need it, suspect areas of PCBs due to contamination, old flux from re-work, switches and so on with IPA, dust I blow off with the shop airline, case parts, yes soap, water and brush (and solvent where safe and needed for sticker residue) but the 'aint broke don't fix' mantra is my guide!
|
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?? ? ?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again! Calvin?
|
The only thing I'd wash with water and soap is the front panel itself (completely removed from the instrument, and any pcbs or wiring harnesses removed from it), any knobs once removed from the pots, and possibly the rubberized keyboard membrane (if applicable) after removed from the backing pcb. They come out like brand new using hot-ish water, manual dishwashing soap (palmolive, dawn, etc), and if necessary an old toothbrush or larger scrub brush (with very soft bristles). For anything else, I'd just use compressed air to remove as much dust as possible and stop there.
On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:39 AM, guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?? ? ?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again! Calvin?
|
I find that Ronson lighter fluid, which is just naptha works very
well.? This includes not only label goo, but a wide range of
"dirt".? It's mild and doesn't hurt plastics (at least not any that
I've come across).? I keep it right there on my bench and use it for
most cleaning jobs, including also flux removal.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
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Show quoted text
?
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work
very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great
again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away
from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would
just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off
the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high
quality horse hair brush would work better??
?
?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick
up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front
panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone
but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of
oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin?
|
?????? You have not said what equipment you want to
clean. It does make a difference. I have detailed the method of
washing employed at the -hp- service center a great many years ago
but this was used on what are now antiques. I will repeat it for
any interested. We used liquid dishwashing detergent diluted in
warm water in a paint spray gun.
?????? For the residue of cal tags and property tags WD-40 works
pretty well as does hand cleaner. Naphtha may work and usually
does not attack paint. Ronsonol is pretty pure and does not leave
a residue, I use it for cleaning camera shutters but canned
naphtha is cheaper and probably works as well. I would be careful
of the "all purpose" solvents now sold to replace naphtha, MEK,
acetone, etc. It really can't and may attack some items naphtha
does not.
?????? If you clean a chassis by spraying and rinsing it really must
be baked out. We used a ventilated electric oven at 130F for at
least two days and I preferred to let things cook for longer if
possible.??? Make sure to remove any parts that are water or heat
sensitive.
On 10/16/2017 12:37 PM, Daun Yeagley
daun@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
I find that Ronson lighter
fluid, which is just naptha works very well.??? This includes not
only label goo, but a wide range of "dirt".??? It's mild and doesn't
hurt plastics (at least not any that I've come across).??? I keep it
right there on my bench and use it for most cleaning jobs,
including also flux removal.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
???
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work
very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great
again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from
using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just???
use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the
surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality
horse hair brush would work better????
???
???I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up
moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front
panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but
don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin???
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
>>? ?You have not said what equipment you want to
clean. >> It does make a difference.?
I want to clean 8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network Analyzer display and I/F sections, and the S-Parameter test set, and a 8566B spectrum analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C panel is plastic, others are not, want to make sure whatever I use is going to eat the paint.
Thanks, Calvin
|
?????? Liquid dishwahing detergent like Dawn is safe for
nearly everything. You have to test paint. Use a cotton swab
somewhere where a mark won't show. Naphtha is safe for many paints
but not all, isopropyl alcohol is fairly safe. Solvents like
acetone, xylene, etc are almost always going to attack paint. MEK
will attack about everything. Watch out for household spray
cleaners, some seem benign but are not. Again test in a small
place.
?????? Kerosene is a fairly mild solvent and may work on residue from
labels. Its a good degreaser.
>>??? ???You have not said what equipment
you want to
clean. >> It does make a difference.???
I want to clean
8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network Analyzer
display and I/F sections, and the S-Parameter test set, and
a 8566B spectrum analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C panel
is plastic, others are not, want to make sure whatever I use
is going to eat the paint.
Thanks,
Calvin
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
I use the citrus based Goo Gone to remove most labels. The citrus oil is very thin, and it evaporates. I have even used ot to remove price tags from paperback books. A few drops on a cotton ball, and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the adhesive, then carefully peel off the label. The older the label, the longer it needs to soak. As far as books or other printed mater, don't rub the surface, or you can remove the ink. I have used over a half gallon of it, so far. I also use it to remove inventory labels from surplus reels of SMD components, to expose the EM labels.
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-----Original Message----- From: "guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Oct 16, 2017 1:39 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?
I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin
Michael A. Terrell
|
Be careful of using IPA to clean instruments. I had experienced
pretty much no problems using IPA until I accidentally hit the
leftmost frequency display wheel on my HP 8601A. The IPA dissolved
the white lettering on the wheel.
DaveD
On 10/16/2017 3:24 PM, `Richard Knoppow
dickburk@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
???
?????? Liquid dishwahing detergent like
Dawn is safe for nearly everything. You have to test
paint. Use a cotton swab somewhere where a mark won't
show. Naphtha is safe for many paints but not all,
isopropyl alcohol is fairly safe. Solvents like acetone,
xylene, etc are almost always going to attack paint. MEK
will attack about everything. Watch out for household
spray cleaners, some seem benign but are not. Again test
in a small place.
?????? Kerosene is a fairly mild solvent and may work on
residue from labels. Its a good degreaser.
>>???
???You have not said what equipment you want to clean.
>> It does make a difference.???
I want to
clean 8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network
Analyzer display and I/F sections, and the
S-Parameter test set, and a 8566B spectrum
analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C
panel is plastic, others are not, want to make sure
whatever I use is going to eat the paint.
Thanks,
Calvin
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
Long years ago, people at HP France used Cen Mil E dilued in water at 50% to clean the various tube equipmants where heat and consequently dust were very important . They were dried in a climatic chamber.
--------------------------------------------
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On Mon, 10/16/17, Daun Yeagley daun@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Monday, October 16, 2017, 9:37 PM
?
I find that Ronson lighter fluid, which is just naptha
works very
well.? This includes not only label goo, but a wide
range of
"dirt".? It's mild and doesn't hurt
plastics (at least not any that
I've come across).? I keep it right there on my
bench and use it for
most cleaning jobs, including also flux removal.
Daun
Daun E.
Yeagley, II, N8ASB
On 10/16/2017 1:39 PM,
guancalvin@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
?
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My
instruments work
very well for their age. I just wanted to make
them great
again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will
stay away
from using any liquid or solvent for PCB
cleaning. I would
just? use electronics grade gas duster to
blow dust off
the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum
and a high
quality horse hair brush would work
better??
?
?I was under impression that excessive
dust would pick
up moisture that would damage my equipments.
Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue
on the front
panel, how should I safely remove them? I have
Goo Gone
but don't know if it's safe for
instrument. It's kind of
oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin?
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#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388bold a {
text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 dd.yiv7121087388last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}
#yiv7121087388 dd.yiv7121087388last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}
#yiv7121087388 dd.yiv7121087388last p
span.yiv7121087388yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388attach-table {
width:400px;}
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388file-title a, #yiv7121087388
div.yiv7121087388file-title a:active, #yiv7121087388
div.yiv7121087388file-title a:hover, #yiv7121087388
div.yiv7121087388file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388photo-title a,
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388photo-title a:active,
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388photo-title a:hover,
#yiv7121087388 div.yiv7121087388photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 div#yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv7121087388ygrp-msg p a span.yiv7121087388yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388green {
color:#628c2a;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}
#yiv7121087388 o {
font-size:0;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;min-height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388reco-category {
font-size:77%;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}
#yiv7121087388 .yiv7121087388replbq {
margin:4px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv7121087388 input, #yiv7121087388 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv7121087388
code {
font:115% monospace;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-mlmsg #yiv7121087388logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-msg
p#yiv7121087388attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-reco
#yiv7121087388reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-sponsor #yiv7121087388ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-sponsor #yiv7121087388ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-sponsor #yiv7121087388ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}
#yiv7121087388 #yiv7121087388ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv7121087388
|
Paul Bicknell
Michael A. Terrell