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In need of a pair of these plastic strips called "zipper", which I realized (after the fact) are how the two cabinet halves are held together (!).
Is 3D printing a possible way to make these up?
Thanks for any suggestions/info/ideas!
Dave
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Hi will the 3D printed ones be strong enough
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected][mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of David Feldman via Groups.Io Sent: 13 April 2019 02:03 To: [email protected]Subject: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 85044A T/R test set part - Cabinet Trim "zipper" - 08502-20007 - source or 3D printed copy? In need of a pair of these plastic strips called "zipper", which I realized (after the fact) are how the two cabinet halves are held together (!). Is 3D printing a possible way to make these up? Thanks for any suggestions/info/ideas! Dave ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.8048 / Virus Database: 4793/15884 - Release Date: 08/14/18 Internal Virus Database is out of date.
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I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated!
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On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 10:58:33 -0700, you wrote: I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated! 3D printer materials vary widely in strength. PLA is pretty generic, ABS is available, some other varieties are available as well as flexible filament. You'd need a heated bed printer for some of them, though. I'd be tempted to try a good ol' cheap print out of PLA to get the sizes right, then see how that works. Infill, wall size, and layer thickness also change strength of the part as well. PLA is cheap, but not very rugged, and definitely not as heat resistant as you'd like, perhaps. Harvey
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Harvey,
try to "temper" the PLA. Use a reflow oven.
If you want, you can send me some samples to HU and I will use my "Wassulmayer" oven.
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
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On 13.04.19 21:55, Harvey White wrote: On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 10:58:33 -0700, you wrote:
I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated! 3D printer materials vary widely in strength.
PLA is pretty generic, ABS is available, some other varieties are
available as well as flexible filament.
You'd need a heated bed printer for some of them, though.
I'd be tempted to try a good ol' cheap print out of PLA to get the
sizes right, then see how that works.
Infill, wall size, and layer thickness also change strength of the
part as well.
PLA is cheap, but not very rugged, and definitely not as heat
resistant as you'd like, perhaps.
Harvey
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On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 22:20:01 +0200, you wrote: Harvey,
try to "temper" the PLA. Use a reflow oven.
I can try that. Right now, I'm working on making a board positioner for the binocular microscope that reads positions of parts from the board file. I don't have any cases that need work until I start to make cases for stuff myself. I have heard of smoothing the PLA by putting it in acetone vapors for a bit. That always sounded rather dangerous to me, and then again, how long to leave it in is another matter. Hmmm, acetone vapors in a glass jar.... I may forego that experiment. I'll wait and see what I need, and thanks for the offer. Harvey
If you want, you can send me some samples to HU and I will use my
"Wassulmayer" oven.
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 13.04.19 21:55, Harvey White wrote:
On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 10:58:33 -0700, you wrote:
I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated! 3D printer materials vary widely in strength.
PLA is pretty generic, ABS is available, some other varieties are
available as well as flexible filament.
You'd need a heated bed printer for some of them, though.
I'd be tempted to try a good ol' cheap print out of PLA to get the
sizes right, then see how that works.
Infill, wall size, and layer thickness also change strength of the
part as well.
PLA is cheap, but not very rugged, and definitely not as heat
resistant as you'd like, perhaps.
Harvey
|
Hello, just send what you need by registered mail to my office in Budapest. But: A) my oven can not handle large pieces B) I am semi-retired. So things can take time, as I have so many jobs...
With best regards Tam HANNA (emailing on a BlackBerry PRIV) Enjoy electronics? Join 14k other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at Am 13. April 2019 23:22:10 MESZ schrieb Harvey White <madyn@...>:
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On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 22:20:01 +0200, you wrote:
Harvey,
try to "temper" the PLA. Use a reflow oven.
I can try that. Right now, I'm working on making a board positioner
for the binocular microscope that reads positions of parts from the
board file.
I don't have any cases that need work until I start to make cases for
stuff myself.
I have heard of smoothing the PLA by putting it in acetone vapors for
a bit. That always sounded rather dangerous to me, and then again,
how long to leave it in is another matter. Hmmm, acetone vapors in a
glass jar....
I may forego that experiment.
I'll wait and see what I need, and thanks for the offer.
Harvey
If you want, you can send me some samples to HU and I will use my
"Wassulmayer" oven.
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 13.04.19 21:55, Harvey White wrote:
On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 10:58:33 -0700, you wrote:
I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated!
3D printer materials vary widely in strength.
PLA is pretty generic, ABS is available, some other varieties are
available as well as flexible filament.
You'd need a heated bed printer for some of them, though.
I'd be tempted to try a good ol' cheap print out of PLA to get the
sizes right, then see how that works.
Infill, wall size, and layer thickness also change strength of the
part as well.
PLA is cheap, but not very rugged, and definitely not as heat
resistant as you'd like, perhaps.
Harvey
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Dave, Is it possible for you to share a photo of the case where the zipper locks fit? ?The service manual on the Keysight site is scanned from a poor microfiche.
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On Apr 13, 2019, at 16:31, Tam Hanna < tamhan@...> wrote:
Hello, just send what you need by registered mail to my office in Budapest. But: A) my oven can not handle large pieces B) I am semi-retired. So things can take time, as I have so many jobs...
With best regards Tam HANNA (emailing on a BlackBerry PRIV) Enjoy electronics? Join 14k other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at Am 13. April 2019 23:22:10 MESZ schrieb Harvey White < madyn@...>:
On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 22:20:01 +0200, you wrote:
Harvey,
try to "temper" the PLA. Use a reflow oven.
I can try that. Right now, I'm working on making a board positioner
for the binocular microscope that reads positions of parts from the
board file.
I don't have any cases that need work until I start to make cases for
stuff myself.
I have heard of smoothing the PLA by putting it in acetone vapors for
a bit. That always sounded rather dangerous to me, and then again,
how long to leave it in is another matter. Hmmm, acetone vapors in a
glass jar....
I may forego that experiment.
I'll wait and see what I need, and thanks for the offer.
Harvey
If you want, you can send me some samples to HU and I will use my
"Wassulmayer" oven.
- - - - -
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 13500 followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 13.04.19 21:55, Harvey White wrote:
On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 10:58:33 -0700, you wrote:
I don't know. I'm fairly sure the OEM part was plastic. The parts don't seem to be under much stress, and the stress is distributed along the length. I've never done 3D printing, but a few components I've encountered that are printed seem to be made of material that would be strong enough. There doesn't seem to be any other practical way to keep the cabinet halves together, so I'm pursuing duplication of the zippers. Any other idea would be appreciated!
3D printer materials vary widely in strength.
PLA is pretty generic, ABS is available, some other varieties are
available as well as flexible filament.
You'd need a heated bed printer for some of them, though.
I'd be tempted to try a good ol' cheap print out of PLA to get the
sizes right, then see how that works.
Infill, wall size, and layer thickness also change strength of the
part as well.
PLA is cheap, but not very rugged, and definitely not as heat
resistant as you'd like, perhaps.
Harvey
Links: You receive all messages sent to this group.
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This is *really* primitive, but I did make a clone of the 85044A zipper on tinkercad, and the export files are attached (tinkercad an Autodesk online service). I had a pair printed today at the university library (I'm a student there) at a cost for $3 for the pair, got them home, and pushed them into the 85044A case - they fit pretty well (just a little more insertion pressure needed than I expected, but still not too hard to adjust). The cabinet holds together without rattling and I suspect will be durable as long as I don't try to remove them again (at which point I suspect they'd break at the weak points described below.)
The design has a weak point along the length (every other tooth section in the zipper is a weak point, as using arrow keys to step-and-repeat the base pattern isn't accurate as tinkercad has no x,y,z coordinate editing capability so I had to do this visually). This weak point could be fixed by redoing the step-and-repeat perhaps to have each tooth section slightly overlap, but I'll leave that to a more experienced CAD designer.
The plastic the university library used wasn't as flexible as the original HP part (they had only one choice), but they do suffice to hold the cabinet halves firmly together, which was needed as the 85044A arrived without these parts at all.
The two files I attached are .stl and .zip (compressed .obj file); these appear to be the only export options on tinkercad, and I'm not sure if either of these files would allow one to import back into tinkercad and alter the design. I'm an absolute beginner at 3D printing and CAD (this is my first project); tinkercad (save for the absence of x,y,z coordinates for objects and object groups) is fully on-line (browser-based).
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On 8/26/19 9:09 PM, David Feldman via Groups.Io wrote: This is *really* primitive, but I did make a clone of the 85044A zipper on tinkercad, and the export files are attached (tinkercad an Autodesk online service). I had a pair printed today at the university library (I'm a student there) at a cost for $3 for the pair, got them home, and pushed them into the 85044A case - they fit pretty well (just a little more insertion pressure needed than I expected, but still not too hard to adjust). The cabinet holds together without rattling and I suspect will be durable as long as I don't try to remove them again (at which point I suspect they'd break at the weak points described below.)
The design has a weak point along the length (every other tooth section in the zipper is a weak point, as using arrow keys to step-and-repeat the base pattern isn't accurate as tinkercad has no x,y,z coordinate editing capability so I had to do this visually). This weak point could be fixed by redoing the step-and-repeat perhaps to have each tooth section slightly overlap, but I'll leave that to a more experienced CAD designer.
The plastic the university library used wasn't as flexible as the original HP part (they had only one choice), but they do suffice to hold the cabinet halves firmly together, which was needed as the 85044A arrived without these parts at all.
The two files I attached are .stl and .zip (compressed .obj file); these appear to be the only export options on tinkercad, and I'm not sure if either of these files would allow one to import back into tinkercad and alter the design. I'm an absolute beginner at 3D printing and CAD (this is my first project); tinkercad (save for the absence of x,y,z coordinates for objects and object groups) is fully on-line (browser-based). There are a lot of gaps in there. No coordinate entry capability? Surely Autodesk knows better than that! If you're of a programming mindset, you might look into OpenSCAD. (it's free) Stuff like this would take just a couple of lines of code. Describe the horizontal slabs, describe the vertical stubs, then write a loop that instantiates the vertical stubs, done. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Hi Dave,
Thanks for the follow-up. Yes, Autodesk has really gone overboard on "market segmentation" (cripping a product to get more $.) There are other shortcomings (when you export a project to a file, then re-import it, all of the grouping attributes, essential to my design - are lost without warning; there's no way to systematically position objects) as previously noted.
I only (for now) have this one task (my first 3D printing task), so I'm trying to make use of tinkercad as it's learning curve is relatively small. I have modified the design to fix the gaps (by making the sections overlap by 0.1mm); I'll get some more printed today at school (I'm 63-year-old student), and post the file and advise shortly the result.
Dave
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On 8/28/19 9:54 AM, David Feldman via Groups.Io wrote: Thanks for the follow-up. Yes, Autodesk has really gone overboard on "market segmentation" (cripping a product to get more $.) There are other shortcomings (when you export a project to a file, then re-import it, all of the grouping attributes, essential to my design - are lost without warning; there's no way to systematically position objects) as previously noted. *barf* I only (for now) have this one task (my first 3D printing task), so I'm trying to make use of tinkercad as it's learning curve is relatively small. I have modified the design to fix the gaps (by making the sections overlap by 0.1mm); I'll get some more printed today at school (I'm 63-year-old student), and post the file and advise shortly the result. Sounds good. Good luck! -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Today's iteration (attached "zipper 3") closes the gaps, except for two (at the 1/3 and 2/3 point), and the remaining gaps are much less pronounced, so the zipper is much more robust. The gaps obviously should not be there at all (tinkercad shows the two junctions slightly overlapped), so I'll do another iteration on Sept. 4 setting more overlap, which should (hopefully) clean that up.
Note that the zippers are about 160mm long with this design; the 85044A expects the zippers to be about 150mm long, just cut the excess off.
It turns out that neither of the export file options (.stl or .zip) from tinkercad preserve object groups (I'm really curious as to why autodesk would publish this tool (tinkercad) with such severe shortcomings - certainly it isn't an incentive for me to spend $$$ on a paid product from them), so it's not feasible to import the STL file into tinkercad and edit the design to make further changes, however, I'm going to continue iterating until the gap issue is resolved, so that if someone comes across this post in the future, they can print the zipper parts directly.
More in a week...
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Dear sir
Can we just have conventional files on hear
Zipping is ok but the two files in zip
I do not have a clue how to use
same goes for the un zipped file
one of the old farts but then the information you want probably is going to
come from an OF
TTFN
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected][mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of David Feldman via Groups.Io Sent: 29 August 2019 00:01 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] HP 85044A T/R test set part - Cabinet Trim "zipper" - 08502-20007 - source or 3D printed copy? Today's iteration (attached "zipper 3") closes the gaps, except for two (at the 1/3 and 2/3 point), and the remaining gaps are much less pronounced, so the zipper is much more robust. The gaps obviously should not be there at all (tinkercad shows the two junctions slightly overlapped), so I'll do another iteration on Sept. 4 setting more overlap, which should (hopefully) clean that up. Note that the zippers are about 160mm long with this design; the 85044A expects the zippers to be about 150mm long, just cut the excess off. It turns out that neither of the export file options (.stl or .zip) from tinkercad preserve object groups (I'm really curious as to why autodesk would publish this tool (tinkercad) with such severe shortcomings - certainly it isn't an incentive for me to spend $$$ on a paid product from them), so it's not feasible to import the STL file into tinkercad and edit the design to make further changes, however, I'm going to continue iterating until the gap issue is resolved, so that if someone comes across this post in the future, they can print the zipper parts directly. More in a week...
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On 8/28/2019 7:00 PM, David Feldman via Groups.Io wrote: Today's iteration (attached "zipper 3") closes the gaps, except for two (at the 1/3 and 2/3 point), and the remaining gaps are much less pronounced, so the zipper is much more robust. The gaps obviously should not be there at all (tinkercad shows the two junctions slightly overlapped), so I'll do another iteration on Sept. 4 setting more overlap, which should (hopefully) clean that up.
Note that the zippers are about 160mm long with this design; the 85044A expects the zippers to be about 150mm long, just cut the excess off.
It turns out that neither of the export file options (.stl or .zip) from tinkercad preserve object groups (I'm really curious as to why autodesk would publish this tool (tinkercad) with such severe shortcomings - certainly it isn't an incentive for me to spend $$$ on a paid product from them), so it's not feasible to import the STL file into tinkercad and edit the design to make further changes, however, I'm going to continue iterating until the gap issue is resolved, so that if someone comes across this post in the future, they can print the zipper parts directly.
More in a week... Do you know how to program and are more or less comfortable in C? I'd strongly suggest OpenSCAD, which has a programming description of an object, and is well suited to constructive machining.? It does very well on geometric shapes, and less wonderfully on organics. Cubes, spheres, cylinders, intersections, unions, differences. There's a lot you can do with such tools. Open source Free. exports easily to .stl files Cura likes this. No need to import/export files since the object is generated by programming-like structures. If you can program, and you're comfortable with programming, highly recommended. If you're not comfortable with programming, a tossup. if you hate programming, well, then.......... 1) Yes, I use it. 2) I've tried CAD programs, and some of the 3D ones.? This is parametrically driven. 3) I've done 3D design (Carrara and Hex).? *not* the same thing, different design goals, works differently.? Intended (in a way) for mechanical parts. Harvey
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Or you could try FreeCAD, which has SCAD and more.
And, is free, and doesn't need you to know programming.
And it happily outputs mesh for your 3D printers... basically
an all in one project that takes from all of the other open
source projects.
-Chuck Harris
Harvey White wrote:
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Show quoted text
Cura likes this.
No need to import/export files since the object is generated by programming-like
structures.
If you can program, and you're comfortable with programming, highly recommended.
If you're not comfortable with programming, a tossup.
if you hate programming, well, then..........
1) Yes, I use it.
2) I've tried CAD programs, and some of the 3D ones. This is parametrically driven.
3) I've done 3D design (Carrara and Hex). *not* the same thing, different design
goals, works differently. Intended (in a way) for mechanical parts.
Harvey
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FreeCAD is immensely powerful, but depending on how your mind works,
it may be the right tool for you and it may not. Myself, I've been
programming for a very long time (40+ years) and what could take me days
in FreeCAD might take minutes in OpenSCAD. Others may find it to be the
opposite.
I mention this because you presented "doesn't need you to know
programming" sounded like programming was something to be avoided, which
certainly isn't the case.
-Dave
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On 8/28/19 9:06 PM, Chuck Harris wrote: Or you could try FreeCAD, which has SCAD and more.
And, is free, and doesn't need you to know programming.
And it happily outputs mesh for your 3D printers... basically
an all in one project that takes from all of the other open
source projects.
-Chuck Harris
Harvey White wrote:
Cura likes this.
No need to import/export files since the object is generated by programming-like
structures.
If you can program, and you're comfortable with programming, highly recommended.
If you're not comfortable with programming, a tossup.
if you hate programming, well, then..........
1) Yes, I use it.
2) I've tried CAD programs, and some of the 3D ones. This is parametrically driven.
3) I've done 3D design (Carrara and Hex). *not* the same thing, different design
goals, works differently. Intended (in a way) for mechanical parts.
Harvey
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
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On 8/28/19 7:11 PM, Paul Bicknell wrote: Can we just have conventional files on hear
Zipping is ok but the two files in zip Not to be contrary Paul, but these are pretty conventional files. Zip has been a multi-file archive format since its inception more than thirty years ago. I do not have a clue how to use To list the contents: $ unzip -v <filename>.zip To extract all files: $ unzip <filename>.zip To extract one file by name: $ unzip <filename>.zip <file-to-extract> same goes for the un zipped file In this case the STL (STereoLithography) file is a standard file in the workflow for 3D CAD designs. The files contained within the zip file are save files for AutoDesk's TinkerCAD. -Dave Feeling contrary today -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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On Wednesday, August 28, 2019, 9:53:58 PM EDT, Dave McGuire <mcguire@...> wrote:
> FreeCAD is immensely powerful, but depending on how your mind works,
> it may be the right tool for you and it may not. Myself, I've been
> programming for a very long time (40+ years) and what could take me days
> in FreeCAD might take minutes in OpenSCAD. Others may find it to be the
> opposite.
Along similar lines, I've used OpenSCAD a little, but recently
came across BRLCAD, which was developed at the Ballistic
Research Lab in Aberdeen MD. It uses TCL for scripting.
So it boils down to a programming language with geometric
primitives. I've thoroughly enjoyed using it.
BLS
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On 8/28/19 7:00 PM, David Feldman via Groups.Io wrote: Today's iteration (attached "zipper 3") closes the gaps, except for two (at the 1/3 and 2/3 point), and the remaining gaps are much less pronounced, so the zipper is much more robust. The gaps obviously should not be there at all (tinkercad shows the two junctions slightly overlapped), so I'll do another iteration on Sept. 4 setting more overlap, which should (hopefully) clean that up.
Note that the zippers are about 160mm long with this design; the 85044A expects the zippers to be about 150mm long, just cut the excess off. Understood. Yes I see those two remaining gaps. (I'm using Cura to render the STL file) I don't have an 85044A; would it be convenient for you to type up a textual description of the shape with measurements? I can bang it up in OpenSCAD quickly and you can check it out, and use it if it works for you, or not. That's something that I can do in a few minutes. It turns out that neither of the export file options (.stl or .zip) from tinkercad preserve object groups (I'm really curious as to why autodesk would publish this tool (tinkercad) with such severe shortcomings - certainly it isn't an incentive for me to spend $$$ on a paid product from them), so it's not feasible to import the STL file into tinkercad and edit the design to make further changes, however, I'm going to continue iterating until the gap issue is resolved, so that if someone comes across this post in the future, they can print the zipper parts directly. I don't think they're too worried about it; I suspect their position is that everyone already knows AutoCAD owns huge swaths of the CAD market and assumes that their real tools wouldn't have such problems...because they don't. They're a scummy, suitly company that has massive issues, but software quality generally (very generally) isn't one of them. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Paul Bicknell
Dave McGuire