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Cleaning RF bits (attenuators, connectors, etc.)
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I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.
Any suggestions on how to clean these without causing damage? I'm guessing some sort of solvent bath plus a toothbrush would do the trick, but I don't want to dissolve anything important. Thanks, John |
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I find that napthat (i.e. Ronson lighter fluid) does a good job. It is mild enough to not attack things, but aggressive enough to clean dirt and contaminates like adhesives.
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Daun Daun E. Yeagley II, N8ASB On 10/6/2018 2:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what. |
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On 10/06/2018 02:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what.I definitely would not immerse the attenuators in any kind of solvent, not even water. However, for a solvent, I would first try naphtha, and if that didn't seem to work, then try denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, which you may have in your medicine chest already. It may not require a toothbrush, possibly some old rags or even paper towels might work, to soak the outside of the attenuator and then rub off the crud. I guess you could immerse connectors in the solvent, but you'll still have to scrub them with a rag or that toothbrush. (I had an experience recently with a spill of one half of a two-part epoxy. Naphtha didn't work, but alcohol did.) Good luck. Let us know what happens. --doug |
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Back in the day I must have cleaned many hundreds of N Type connectors, the biggest issue at the observatory was actually PP (Pigeon Poop - 60' dishes were ideal nesting sites!) However soap/water/brush worked fine for that!
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The connectors that were more exposed to the elements were sealed with tape and we used a solvent to get that goop off (Trich in those days but IPA would probably be a safer alternative today!) and no harm was caused. Whatever solvent you use the merest hint of WD40 sparingly applied to the top of the locking ring afterwards makes a huge difference to the ease of subsequent fastening/unfastening. Left dry there seems to be a lot of friction at that point, especially, I have noticed, on stainless steel bodied connectors - I find a drop applied from the end of a cocktail stick is ample. Adrian On 10/6/2018 7:44 PM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical surfaces are in good shape, but the outer body is cruddy with sticker goo, grime, and who knows what. |
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Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd
On Sat, 6 Oct 2018 at 19:44, John Ackermann N8UR <jra@...> wrote: I have a bunch of type N attenuators and connectors where the electrical IPA is reccommended by Keysight. I buy "eBay graded" IPA. Supposed to be 99.9%, but any more than 80% would be a bonus! I would not immerse anything, even in IPA. I had some 3.5 mm connectors with foam on them from an HP cal kit. I could not clean it off. I tried IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner, but that would not touch it either. Then I tried acetone. That melted bits of the connectors. I everntually stuck on eBay as for spares or repair, and they were bought by yikunhk - the HP rebirthing centre. Dave |
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Isopropyl alcohol is quite hygroscopic. If exposed to air for a time pure ispropyl will become 91%. That is usually the dryest one can buy in general trade. 99+% is available from stores who sell computer supplies and some other places. I don't think it is ever completely free of water. 99+ requires care in handling to prevent absorption of more water.
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The problem is that when the alcohol evaporates the water is left behind. For many purposes it makes no difference but there are some applications where the driest alcohol possible is necessary. One is cleaning the emulsion side of photographic film. Currently, 99+% IPA is Kodak's recommended film cleaner for the emulsion side only because it can attack some types of supports. There were better materials such as 1,1,1,trichlorethane, but they are now considered hazardous. On 10/6/2018 3:03 PM, Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd wrote:
On Sat, 6 Oct 2018 at 19:44, John Ackermann N8UR <jra@... <mailto:jra@...>> wrote: --
Richard Knoppow dickburk@... WB6KBL |
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI have had some moderate success cleaning the foam rot by? using "Tarn-X", which is a jewelry cleaner.? Not perfect by any means, but certainly an improvement.Daun Daun E. Yeagley II, N8ASB
On 10/6/2018 6:03 PM, Dr. David Kirkby
from Kirkby Microwave Ltd wrote:
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I use "sticky label remover"
label remover It has a distinctive citrus smell but the main thing is that it doesn't evaporate quickly like IPA or other solvents. I apply it liberally?to a paper towel (ie wet but not dripping) and then hold the towel over the crud for a couple of minutes then wipe with the towel. It shifts pretty much all the gunk left behind by stickers and by using the wet towel method you are only applying it to the outside of the attenuator and not inside the connectors - so reducing the chances of any damage to the attenuator itself. It's safe to all the plastic connector covers I have so you can use them to further limit any accidental?ingress. The only downside is that it does leave behind a slight citrus fragrance but provided you don't have a citrus allergy this isn't a problem 73 Dave |
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Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd
On Sat, 6 Oct 2018, 23:30 Richard Knoppow, <dickburk@...> wrote: ? ? ? I forget the purity, but we used to buy "analytical grade" ethanol for cleaning laser lenses. That was I believe the purest form.? I have only bought "eBay grade" IPA. Sold as 99.9%, but common sense tells you it is? not. Dave.? |
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Note that for a lot of dirt the lower grades of IPA work better than pure (99.9%). Use 80% IPA for first appliaction with the 99% for the final? clean to absorb the water. You can't get IPA purer than 91% by distillation, the purer grades are dryed chemically hence the higher cost.
I find Methanol works well on the decayed foam and citrus turpene (label remover) for labels. Robert G8RPI. |
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