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I am seeking replacements or substitutes for these caps:

C10?? HP p/n 0180-1852 x2

C14?? HP p/n 0180-1888 x2

C20?? HP p/n 0180-1851 x2

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I have tried a variety of cobbled together solutions and they have not worked.? I do not want to scrap this device but I am out of ideas.

Thanks

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Joe White
KW4YW

For C14 & C20 the can has several tabs that secure them to the board - these are common with the "-" of the capacitor and the can itself is often used to complete the circuit.? Make sure that all of the tabs connected to the case are also connected to the "-" terminal if required.? The voltage rating of any replacement should be the same or higher than the originals and the capacitance value itself should be 20-50% higher than the original - the actual capacitance of the originals tended to be close to or above the indicated value while modern capacitors tend to be below the rated value (as close to the lowest limit of the tolerance band as the manufacturer can get away with.) No need to worry about low ESR on these however and, while not required, 105 deg C parts are a good choice IMO as they really don't cost much more than 85 deg parts and they will probably outlast us both in that application.

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Hal

Hi Joe,

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If you just change some parts without knowing why you only make it worse. You give exact 0 information what was your error-picture, what you did or what voltages did you measure. My advice:

print out the schematc, mark the GND reference against which there is the masurement. If you measure, take the DC and AC Voltages and write them in the schematic. Check all voltages from left to right. Only C10, C12 or C14 may have up to 0,1V AC without load.

There may be a defect capacitor. But defect diodes or transistors are more common.

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before you open the device: unplug it. If open: Isolate ALL life points, no exception. Use an isolation transformer.

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Are the bridges on the rear according to the schematic?

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Roland